Joined on January 26, 2011
Last Post on March 7, 2014
@ March 7, 2014 10:36 AM in Heat loss through rim joistI think you should move the tubing. You said it's an inch to an inch and a half away from the rim joist. That means the tubing is looping under the wall of the room above. It didn't need to be that close. I would bite the bullet (if you did it yourself), or have the contractor come back and properly install the tubing-ie, move it.
Depending on your floor covering, someone will drive a nail, or fish a wire down the wall from above thinking there's no way radiant tubing is under the wall, and hit it.
And you'll get to insulate your rim joist properly.
@ March 5, 2014 9:50 PM in Weil McClain Boiler QuestionJust wondering if the domestic hot water is set for priority.
@ February 27, 2014 4:35 PM in Back up boiler sizeNo matter what you go with, properly size it to do everything you need without the wood stove. It wont cost you more money. And you never know what could happen to the 'stove stoker' in the future, and you'll be glad you have some automatic heat.
@ February 25, 2014 10:04 PM in Has anyone ever heard of this?There's been no autopsy on the I joist? If I were guessing I would lean toward mechanical failure caused by:
1. Improperly drilled holes
2. Improper cross bridging or cross bridging removed.
3. Improper engineering.
If it were moisture related, I wouldn't blame the radiant unless it was leaking. It's pretty hard to get a clear idea of what happened during construction--not weather tight, things like that.
Plus you mentioned it was installed in August. Humid climate?
@ February 22, 2014 6:18 PM in BobStupidity.
Or maybe he didn't have a smaller nozzle and he lowered the pump pressure thinking it compensates.
Or he doesn't understand proper combustion and all its elements, especially draft. When he looks at the fire and lowers the pump pressure, it looks 'better' to him. Maybe poor draft or partially plugged heat exchanger (poor, lazy cleaning), has the flame impinging off the back and this is his remedy.
Either way, get a better guy if you can.
@ February 22, 2014 6:11 PM in Cleaning a boiler.Not for me. The deposits off the ceiling need to be cleaned, but the chamber itself is probably filling up with (as Icesailor says) kibbles and bits. This will affect how efficient your burner fires, and how clean it will run.
Got to open the combustion chamber. On an old boiler if it's going to be a nightmare (rusted/broken bolts), it will only be the first time. After that, every year it will be easy.
@ February 21, 2014 1:12 PM in weil mclain 68 questions, help pleaseHow is it preheating the domestic tank? If it's boiler water (doubt it, but you never know), then you'll have to valve it off or drain it, cut/cap pipes, re-bleed system, remove controls,etc.
Most likely it's from the domestic coil. You can close off the domestic water supply on hot and cold, cut and cap it. But there is still a control issue to figure out. A triple aquastat or an aquastat in the hot water heater was controlling this somehow.
Post a few pictures, just to make sure.
BTW, if you gonna start cutting pipes on a 768, I'd be thinking about a new, triple pass (if oil) boiler, a modern gas boiler. and an indirect
@ February 20, 2014 10:46 PM in changing a garber filter1. Wait until the tank is empty.
2. Soot vac trick. Wouldn't recommend trying this on your own the first couple of times.
I even hesitate to mention it because you should only try it with someone who has done it before.
The only other way if you get lucky would be a clogged oil line.
@ February 19, 2014 9:48 PM in Looking for book recommendations!That advice did not come from any expert. No expert foregoes a heat loss calc. No expert oversizes. There are many truly amazing experts here on this site. One of them wrote about 17 books :).
Siggy's book is good, but it won't give you all the answers you are looking for.
My best advice is to check this site for someone close to you, then check their posts to get a better feel for their expertise.
All the books & diagrams can't possibly account for your exact situation. A competent pro can answer these questions accurately, and quickly. You can buy a few hours of his/her time and end up with a complete blueprint--heat loss, piping diagram, list of materials.
@ February 19, 2014 5:24 PM in How to vent oilDumb dumb, dumb. No one gets arrested for fraud.
@ February 19, 2014 5:18 PM in Looking for book recommendations!But I don't think a 'book or two' is going to give you all the information you need. You would be better off taking advantage of a hydronics expert to design your system--from proper heat load/loss, piping, emitters, controls, equipment, etc.
They already know what works and what doesn't, and can provide you with many options you many not even be aware exist.
Then with a proper plan, you can install away...
@ February 19, 2014 5:13 PM in Seeking info on unusual stem for antique hot water radiatorhttp://stores.ebay.co.uk/Total-DIY/Radiator-Utility-Keys-/_i.html?_fsub=5409365015
@ February 17, 2014 4:28 PM in auto-feed on or off for boiler for hydronic baseboard heat ?Add the LWCO, close the valve to the water feed. If there is a leak, especially when you are not home, you will have a mess.
A boiler is a living, breathing (well maybe not living or breathing) beast (ok NOT a beast), that needs some TLC and more attention then a scorched air system.
I have the LWCO, and the feed valve closed. I also walk by my boiler every day, on the way out and when I get home, and glance at the boiler gauge and the display on the Tekmar boiler control.
@ February 17, 2014 4:21 PM in bleeding a heated slab?Yikes! It appears you may have luck closing one loop at a time and purging it thru the near boiler piping, if there's a way to drain. Of course if I were going there, between one and everyone of those would leak after I turned them.
If there are vents they should be at the manifold, or in the near boiler piping.
Why does it need to be bled now? Are they sure there isn't a frozen loop, or a circ problem?
Even if I had a 10 foot pole, I wouldn't touch it.
@ February 16, 2014 8:35 PM in reillo post purgeDid you check to see if either the oil valve is still getting power, or is stuck open?
@ February 13, 2014 8:53 PM in Master Circ pump + one for each zone?The black circ is on the boiler loop. It circulates water thru the boiler when any zone calls for heat.
@ February 5, 2014 12:15 AM in Replacement options for leaking Burnham V7/V8Make sure you get a proper heat loss calculation. 91000 BTU'S seems light unless you're well insulated. Are you on the water (I'm thinking about constant breeze/wind)? The right installer will make all the difference. It's most important to have the properly sized boiler.
Buderus is good too.
You didn't mention what controls you have, but new matching controls will be better, and outdoor reset.
I would avoid the WM-WGO. Anyone who would put in a pinner has no plans to clean it.
You didn't mention if you need the boiler to do domestic hot water.
@ February 4, 2014 11:39 PM in Replacement options for leaking Burnham V7/V884,000 Btu's, 115,000 Btu's, 147,000 Btu's (gross)
64,000 Btu's, 87,000 Btu's, 112,000 Btu's (net IBR respectively)
If your heat loss is correct, I would go with the 115
@ February 4, 2014 9:16 AM in Replacement options for leaking Burnham V7/V8You can go back and edit it yourself.....:)
Stick with the oil.
@ February 3, 2014 1:58 PM in Congress seeks to jack up fees on home heating oil in midst of frigid winterTalking about finally re-funding NORA. This is a good thing. It's just about the only way to get out the truth about the oil & gas industry that anyone pays attention to. And yes they do the things they say they are going to do.
How much for the bridge.....:)
@ February 1, 2014 9:52 PM in changing a garber filterThe screw is to bleed the filter. It appears your shut off is bad. Why did you want to change the filter?
Either you didn't bleed it properly, or you had a restriction which to you looked like air, or you have a leak and it's sucking in air. Or a combination of the 3.
A trained tech and some gauges can solve this simply & quickly
@ January 31, 2014 10:05 PM in New Boiler can't keep upAlong with Jamie's excellent advice, I wonder about few things.
With an indirect, why is the boiler maintaining such a high temp? I think you are controlling the indirect incorrectly, by just having it as a zone.
How did they choose which circ to put in? Maybe a smarter circ, after doing the math, is a better option.
The fact that the boiler is shutting off on high limit may mean the boiler isn't undersized, if all zones are calling.
Are you sure all the air is purged out of the split loops in each zone? Are they properly balanced?
How much pressure in the boiler & how many feet in height from the boiler to the top of the highest piece of radiation?
What kind of controls on the boiler, besides the aquastat?
You added a zone after the boiler was replaced. And this is the coldest winter in this area in about 18 years.
Ideally you may need to pay a hydronics expert to spend as much time as they need to evaluate, measure, calculate & look over the entire system, to make the proper recommendations to get your system working like it should.
Edit: one other thing, 15 years with this boiler, did it ever work properly. Keep in mind your old boiler could have been way oversized, and was able to heat the home quicker.