Joined on January 26, 2011
Last Post on December 7, 2013
@ December 7, 2013 3:34 PM in loose springWhat were you doing when it magically popped off.....tell the truth :)
Popped off or broke off?
@ December 7, 2013 3:32 PM in HeatA thermostat wire heating up and shorting out. Or a problem with the aquastat. Something is sending a signal (power) to tell the burner to fire.
When you got there and everything was hot, could've just finished a call for heat, or shut off on high limit, then satisfied the call for heat. Or if like I said earlier, thermostat, low voltage wiring short, could've opened back and let the unit shut off. I'd investigate those wires, and check them with a meter. Disconnected on one end, and check continuity on the other. If you see the numbers bouncing around or continuity, you have a short.
You didn't say if the boiler is used for DHW. If it is, then I would initially follow SWEI's advice and look at the flow checks.
@ December 7, 2013 3:23 PM in New carlin 60200 wiring helpFirst off, if everything flooded you probably have bigger problems then just the control. What about the burner motor, oil valve, and transformer? I wouldnt reuse them. It's a huge risk.
What about the boiler? I'd really think twice about re-using everything.
L2. You could, but it's so easier and neater to put the spade terminals on the wires and plug them in, instead of trying to wire nut 5 or 6 wires together. In only takes a few minutes, why risk loose wires causing a problem
As far as the missing wire, it depends on what else is hooked up and how. It's possible, if you're not using pre or post purge to ignore, but the control needs constant power for pre and post purge, otherwise everything fires up at once. If you don't have both L1 and the black wire from the limit, your nozzle heater isnt really working as it should. And you need the burner to shut off if it hits limit-very important.
From the aquastat (limit) you should be wired to the black terminal of the control (Limit)
Check the wire nutted red wire for constant voltage, if it has it, it goes to the L1 terminal.
I would wire it as recommended. And hope another electrical component doesn't start a fire.
@ December 1, 2013 8:51 PM in NEW STEAM BOILER IS BANGING! HELP!You may wish to repost in the steam section with some pics of the near boiler piping. The fact that a 'plumber' skimmed it '4 or 5 times' tells me he doesn't know what he's doing. It's most likely piped wrong, water line was changed, or some other changes were made that the installer didn't think mattered, but obviously do.
What type of boiler?
Could also be something as simple as allowing main pipes to now sag. Or insulation missing, etc.
@ November 24, 2013 10:34 PM in is there a pump blank fitting?I was just thinking of this today, like they have for a gas meter. Then after a new install, you can flush the entire system, close the iso valves, put the new circs in, bleed system of air and go.
How bout an old circ, remove the impeller?
@ November 24, 2013 10:04 PM in Excess AirDoes this happen every time? If so, either way, stick 2 different CAs in the flue, just to check. But certainly this is a sign of a large crack in the exchanger. You wouldn't get CO in the supply because the blower is overpowering the exchanger. You may get it before the blower comes on.
Also make sure after a cleaning, that all the clean outs are properly reattached and sealed--no loose gaskets. This would give you the same kind of readings as a cracked exchanger.
More thoughts, what happens to the other numbers, before and after the blower comes on? Does CO2 nosedive (or O2 go up)? Does draft change?
Some analyzers have a set up to do a heat exchanger test, which basically measures combustion before and after the blower comes on.
Other things that could effect numbers pre/post blower:
1. Open return (with oil, you usually see the draft regulator move when the blower comes on.
2. Restriction in the return (clogged air filter) robbing combustion air.
@ November 20, 2013 11:16 PM in Oil burner not firingWhat happens if you connect the xx (end switch) on the Taco 4 zone to tt on the aquastat?
I wouldn't leave it this way without solving the low water cut off problem.
Did you check for proper voltage? Is your burner locked out on safety?
If it works after you bypass the LWCO, then obviously the LWCO is wired incorrectly, faulty, or installed incorrectly.
You didn't state where the 'leak' exactly came from?
@ November 20, 2013 11:06 PM in flow check problem- what should I do?thermo siphoning (don't know how to spell it)
Put a check on the return. Not a swing check. Not a zone valve either.
You could repipe and trap it.
If you follow the return, how far up the return is the water hot?
@ November 20, 2013 10:53 PM in OSV and residential Riello F40You posted...
"...Am I getting yanked around???"
How many website forums did you post this question? I count 3
@ November 14, 2013 6:28 PM in Pressure Relief Valve issuesSorry for yelling.
Where did you get the ridiculous dangerous notion that the boiler is rated for 160 psi? If I'm not mistaken, 25psi max (have to get out the manual).
The 30 psi relief valve is the correct pressure (but wrong valve for your boiler). The improper installation is the reason for your new problem. The first problem is an air or piping issue causing the pressure to rise the 30 psi threshold.
Save the pictures. Tell dumb dumb to get the right relief valve, pipe it correctly.
You may need a new board to fix the problems, which should be on him.
After the problems are fixed, call Munchkin and find a recommend installer for your area for future service and maintenance.
Ill try to find you the manual.
Edit: Here's a link to the manual
@ November 3, 2013 6:25 PM in One zone on boiler overheats and blows pressure relief valveAre you sure the circ is pointing in the right direction? If so, if there's no blockage (you mentioned the crud) I think it's air. Air blockage, no flow thru the boiler, runs up on temp and pressure.
BTW, how are you reading pressure on the expansion tank?
The pressure shouldn't change all that much with a properly working system. My boiler (2 high temp zones, 4 radiant, plus indirect) hardly changes pressure of a pound or 2 all winter.
@ November 3, 2013 6:15 PM in converting a two line system to a single lineYou forgot to remove the bypass plug. Another unfortunate case of a DIY'er trying to save some money. :)
Follow hotpipe's recommendation. Your burner may be set to run at a different pressure then what the pump is factory set to. Then of course, properly connected, bled, pump pressure/vacuum test, and a complete combustion test all need to be done. And while he's there, have him clean the unit, new filter, nozzle, etc.
@ November 2, 2013 10:04 PM in Outside tank info Removal & Install1. Inside is definitely preferred. Yes you could put in additives, put something around the fuel line, put something in the tank to heat the fuel, or get a heating oil/kerosene mix. They even make enclosures. Then after all that, unless you have an oil line heater at the nozzle, you could end up with cold fuel performance issues. A lot to go thru for an outside tank.
2. Keep in mind there are different styles of tanks with different footprints. They even make a vertical tank that stands on end, also check out Roth Tanks.
3. Site rules prohibit discussing price.
4. Tank removal can be pretty pricey
Btw, did anyone determine the tank is leaking? I think Mass. requires tank testing. Also, what does your insurance company say about the tank?
And finally, call another oil company. Many companies up there.
@ November 2, 2013 9:51 PM in Furnace won't start after oil delivery1. Could have already been off on safety.
2. Could have been running when you received the delivery, the driver blasted the fuel in on high speed (actual doesn't have to be high speed), stirred up the crud in the bottom, clogged line and/or filter.
Either way, gonna need a service call.
@ October 29, 2013 6:27 PM in does everything look Okay?I hate to burst your bubble but there are a lot of things wrong.
Flue pipe and draft regulator are way wrong. Can't see what else is tied in to it, probably an oil fired hot water heater?
Spirovent/water feed/expansion tank are not where I would put them (what's holding the tank up?).
Something is wrong with the manifold, but I can't see down the left side of the boiler to see the return piping.
The mixing valve-where is it getting its cold side mix from?
Is there another circ for the boiler loop? If not, how does the water, from the zone returns get back into the boiler.
Take a few more pics, from farther back, and from straight on the boiler. Also up high showing the flue pipe from both appliances.
Just trying to help.
@ October 29, 2013 1:44 PM in baseboard stays coldDid it ever work right? Were any modifications made? When you changed the circ, are you sure you picked the right one.? What size pipes, etc. etc.?
More importantly....mono-flo fittings? In other words, why would the water want to go there, or why would it not?
Hard to diagnose without spending some time with the system.
@ October 29, 2013 1:39 PM in Heating IssuesYour best bet is to bring in a pro to look everything over, check continuity, voltages, amps and troubleshoot the entire system
@ October 29, 2013 1:35 PM in Leaking Fuel Pump on Beckett BurnerTake the plug off, make sure the bypass plug is NOT installed, put the plug back on with some pipe dope..cant believe they couldn't figure that out. Once again, this could NOT have been the cause of 5 pump replacements.
Make sure they take the pump completely off, the nozzle assembly, the blower motor/wheel out, and wipe down all the oil that has now been sucked into the burner housing.
It could also be the fitting in the supply side of the pump bad. Also, to quickly change a pump, some people leave the oil line connected to the cover, and reuse the cover. If the cover is cracked warped or wasn't cleaned correctly (with a razor knife), it could leak again.
Once again, after the pump is fixed or replaced, tell them to hook up pressure/vacuum gauges, and show you the readings as the pump operates.
@ October 27, 2013 6:34 PM in Leaking Fuel Pump on Beckett BurnerAre you sure it was actually the pump leaking? How was it diagnosed, besides just oil leaking from it?
Some unaddressed problems could be the culprits (if the pump seals keep blowing out):
Is this a 2 line system? If so, is the return line getting plugged, or kinked? A completely plugged return line will blow a pump out in about 2 seconds.
Is the storage tank way above the pump? So much so that it requires an OSV (more then 3 psi at the inlet)?
Has yearly maintenance been done, specifically oil filter and pump screen? What did they look like? What were the pressure and vacuum readings?
Most people never get a fuel pumped replaced, let alone 5.
Some thing obvious is being overlooked.
@ October 27, 2013 6:24 PM in Diesel for home heating oil #2Where are you located that you can't get a heating oil delivery for 4 days in the fall? Just curious.
As stated above, ULSD, clear & dyed are the same product. Dye is injected at loading so you can purchase it without the road taxes.
@ October 2, 2013 1:15 PM in tankless coil in the winterNothing prevents the domestic hot water from overheating, which is the reason why you need a mixing valve on the domestic water system so you don't scald someone, or worse.
Similar situation with an indirect for the domestic. Generally you'll want the hot water temperature at 140, then mixed down to avoid scalding. Controls and an aquastat on the indirect should prevent you from raising the indirect to 180.
@ September 15, 2013 7:40 PM in need control for system with radiant and baseboardYou could go with Tekmar boiler controls. Will do all you need, ODR, multiple temps, DHW priority/non priority. Plus it has zone controls you can add on, communicating thermostats etc.
You can also do the same thing with Taco products.
Edit. Just to add, both are expandable, but both will cost you some $$$$.$$