Joined on January 26, 2011
Last Post on July 9, 2014
@ May 19, 2011 2:56 PM in glass like sootJohn, where are you seeing this? On the burner head/end cone? Or somewhere else? If you're finding it on the end cone, could be the nozzle assembly it out of adjustment, not letting the proper amount of air get down and through. You could make sure its at the manufacturers recommendation. Then start the usual troubleshooting---motor, blower wheel, pump coupling all working properly, then complete combustion testing. Also make sure the nozzle wasn't changed to a different type, size shape, from the correct one.
@ May 16, 2011 4:08 PM in Indirect water heater timerI agree with JDB that something is definately 'up'. My Smart 60 only calls when I use alot of hot water, or if it sat awhile, when i start using hot water,and if no hot water is used, it may only come on once all day. I hope you have flow checks instead of swing checks, but thats a whole different thread. Is it possible to show a diagram or photos of the piping to/from the solar storage tank? I'm curious as to the interaction between the two, specifically the piping & controls. Yes flow checks are used on the potable side, especially with a DHW return line/pump. My initial thought is it could be the aquastat, and I would start there, checking it with a meter. Following up with what JDB asked, do you know if your DHW pump is running at all? You said the priority switch is off, but can/did you confirm it with an electic meter. Is this a recent problem, or did you notice it recently? Also, any dripping of a hot water faucet or leak would hurt you too. If possible, see if your water meter is spinning (little red arrow on mine), or check the gallons, then check in a half hour (with no water usuage) to see if there are any change.
@ May 16, 2011 3:10 PM in Eliminating blow back when filling tanksI personally wouldnt pipe it that way at all. There are many multi-type tank set ups piped this way that im sure work fine. Your basic problem is the tank(s) won't vent properly because the first, then the second tank are completely full (and pressurized). When the driver disconnects from the fill pipe, it just wants to blow right back at him. I think the best method, if it works for you, is 3 supply fills, and 3 vents with vent-a-larms. Second best would be this sketch:
@ May 16, 2011 1:05 PM in Indirect water heater timerabout your other controls. What's controlling the boiler, the DHW call, do you have setback features, unoccupied modes, etc., or are your current controls expandable?
@ May 15, 2011 4:18 PM in Comments on Schematic?With all the proper piping, flow checks, etc, think like water. A zone calls for heat, P1 comes on, and a zone circ comes on. As water exits the boiler it's heading for the LLH, the path of least resistance, and the greater pressure difference. It's too lazy to try to work its way to, and through the indirect.
When the DHW calls, P2 comes on, and moves the water thru the indirect, and through the boiler. When it passes that tee, it'll barely have time to wave in that direction. The only time you'll see flow in both, is when both are calling for heat, unless you set your controls for DHW priority.
Just make sure you have all your shut-offs, and flow checks where you need them.
@ May 15, 2011 4:04 PM in quoting jobs to home owners and then following up to close the job.This is a tricky one because it appears you have no contact with the homeowner, only the contractor does. It would be a little difficult to insert yourself into the mix without either insulting the contractor or looking like youre doing a hard sell on the customer. Maybe you could ask the contractor if you can accompany him to the homeowners house to see if he/she has any addtional questions about the bid, or the equipment, or any questions comparing the job/equipment of other bids. Based on the on-site conditions, you may be able to offer some help which could reduce cost, or see an opportunity to discuss with the contractor some ideas to make a better job. But it's up to the contractor. I almost always get the supplier to 'swing by' on bigger or more complicated jobs.
Oh...and buy him lunch :)
@ May 15, 2011 3:47 PM in Comments on Schematic?Yes you left a 'few' things out. Was there another thread from you?
1. Unless you're doing something different with your controls, I don't see flow going thru your LLH, when you get a call for DHW. Just seems like P2 handles DHW all by itself. In the design you reference (Siggy's design), when the primary needs heat, no DHW, the primary pump is running, and making a 'figure 8' if you will, thru the boiler, down, turn left (away from the indirect) thru the LLH, down and back thru the primary pump. The secondary side takes what it need via one of its many pumps.
2. Your drawing seems to conflict with what you say the zones are doing. Is Zone 1 high temp & Zone 2 low temp? If so, they're doing two temperatures and are better off separated. Also the radiant zones (zone 2) are going to need a pump that can handle a much higher head.
@ May 11, 2011 12:09 PM in Question on Air Gaps under wood Flooringhttp://www.wattsradiant.com/support/literature/#/wattsradiant-solutions-radiantheating/WR_WattsRadiant_Brochure_RadiantHeating.
Open this brochure and look on page 2, a little to the right, where it shows an aluminum conduction layer (over the wood sleepers). This would help you with conduction. But a second options may be to go with a concrete floor leveler (mix & is applied as a liquid), which you can screed over your new furring strips to get a flat level surface.
I'd be curious to see what others think or may have tried.
@ May 10, 2011 12:24 PM in injection piping/problemsThanks for your reply. I did find the tekmar essay. I wish the installer found it first :). I apologize for making an incomplete drawing. There are flow checks, iso valves, etc., I just put in the pipes/sizes, and circs.
@ May 10, 2011 11:08 AM in injection piping/problemsHello everyone, long time reader, first time poster. I'm having a problem with the injection piping supplying the radiant heat zones. The problem appears when only one radiant zone calls for heat. The injection supply gets very hot, the injection return gets very hot, and the both sides of the closely spaced tees (supply/return to/from circs) stays cold. Then the supply sloooooowly warms. If more then one zone calls, everything works like it should. I think the problem is the injection piping and the supply/return to/from radiant circs, are both 3/4". My opinion is the injection circ is ramping up and blocking flow (or reversing flow through the closely spaced tees) and returning right back to the primary loop. If I turn the radiant circs up to 'high', its less of a problem, but I end up with lots (and loud) expansion noise of the pex. Should I repipe the supply/return to/from the radiant circs to 1 1/4 copper, then reduce to 1 1/4x 3/4 tees to the circs? I (hopefully) attached a picture showing the main components. Any input would be greatly appreciated.