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Joined on January 26, 2011

Last Post on August 31, 2014

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Why did you post this

@ January 4, 2014 11:20 PM in furnace white smoke

Why did you post this in 2 forums at the same time?

Pretty soon

@ December 17, 2013 10:31 AM in Math quiz at end of first post after login...

Pretty soon the questions will be like.......
What is the airspeed velocity of an unladen swallow (in MPH)?  Wrong answer gets you thrown off the bridge.
I wonder if anyone gets the reference......

Supply house ....

@ December 17, 2013 10:23 AM in Oil line flare fittings

Assuming all the oil line sizes are correct, the plumbing supply house will have everything you need.  Home cheapo has them all too.


@ December 17, 2013 10:20 AM in Importance of combustion gas testing?

Probably right.  Turned it works!!!!

The reason why...

@ December 16, 2013 11:07 PM in Importance of combustion gas testing?

You had no soot after the first year, is because the installer set it up right--proper draft, 0 smoke, etc. The Heat Manager probably did help because it didn't let the boiler condense.
Listen to the other 2 responders, analyzer every time. You can't see the difference between 0 smoke and 1 smoke by looking at it. But you'll see the difference next cleaning.


@ December 15, 2013 4:12 PM in Beckett AF Problem

Sounds like you checked almost everything, but it obviously appears to be an electrical problem/short.  Assuming you did everything correctly, I'd take another look at the pressuretrol.
I would recheck all wiring--especially if wires lay on pipes.  Then check the contacts in the relays, especially the LWCO.
What type of LWCO do you have?
You shouldn't have adjusted the air without a combustion analyzer.  Too much air could be blowing out the flame.
You smell oil probably from the rapid on/off sequences.
When you closed the transformer, did you pinch any wires?
You didn't fully check the primary control properly.  The cad cell needs to be checked where it is mounted both during flame and no flame, not just with ambient light.
If you know a guy with an 8184G, I would swap it out, just to eliminate it.
Did you look down the air tube to make sure its clean, unobstructed, and not cracked or loose?
It's also possible that you didn't set up everything correctly--nozzle, electrodes, etc., but this isn't the problem your having right now.


@ December 7, 2013 3:34 PM in loose spring

What were you doing when it magically popped off.....tell the truth :)
Popped off or broke off?

could be as simple as.........

@ December 7, 2013 3:32 PM in Heat

A thermostat wire heating up and shorting out.  Or a problem with the aquastat.  Something is sending a signal (power) to tell the burner to fire.
When you got there and everything was hot, could've just finished a call for heat, or shut off on high limit, then satisfied the call for heat.  Or if like I said earlier, thermostat, low voltage wiring short, could've opened back and let the unit shut off.  I'd investigate those wires, and check them with a meter.  Disconnected on one end, and check continuity on the other.  If you see the numbers bouncing around or continuity, you have a short.
You didn't say if the boiler is used for DHW.  If it is, then I would initially follow SWEI's advice and look at the flow checks.

depends, depends.

@ December 7, 2013 3:23 PM in New carlin 60200 wiring help

First off, if everything flooded you probably have bigger problems then just the control.  What about the burner motor, oil valve, and transformer?  I wouldnt reuse them. It's a huge risk.
What about the boiler?  I'd really think twice about re-using everything.
L2.  You could, but it's so easier and neater to put the spade terminals on the wires and plug them in, instead of trying to wire nut 5 or 6 wires together.  In only takes a few minutes, why risk loose wires causing a problem
As far as the missing wire, it depends on what else is hooked up and how.  It's possible, if you're not using pre or post purge to ignore, but the control needs constant power for pre and post purge, otherwise everything fires up at once.  If you don't have both L1 and the black wire from the limit, your nozzle heater isnt really working as it should.  And you need the burner to shut off if it hits limit-very important. 
From the aquastat (limit) you should be wired to the black terminal of the control (Limit)
Check the wire nutted red wire for constant voltage, if it has it, it goes to the L1 terminal.
I would wire it as recommended. And hope another electrical component doesn't start a fire.

For starters,

@ December 1, 2013 8:51 PM in NEW STEAM BOILER IS BANGING! HELP!

You may wish to repost in the steam section with some pics of the near boiler piping. The fact that a 'plumber' skimmed it '4 or 5 times' tells me he doesn't know what he's doing. It's most likely piped wrong, water line was changed, or some other changes were made that the installer didn't think mattered, but obviously do.
What type of boiler?
Could also be something as simple as allowing main pipes to now sag. Or insulation missing, etc.

I was just thinking of this...

@ November 24, 2013 10:34 PM in is there a pump blank fitting?

I was just thinking of this today, like they have for a gas meter. Then after a new install, you can flush the entire system, close the iso valves, put the new circs in, bleed system of air and go.
How bout an old circ, remove the impeller?

Does this happen......

@ November 24, 2013 10:04 PM in Excess Air

Does this happen every time? If so, either way, stick 2 different CAs in the flue, just to check. But certainly this is a sign of a large crack in the exchanger. You wouldn't get CO in the supply because the blower is overpowering the exchanger. You may get it before the blower comes on.
Also make sure after a cleaning, that all the clean outs are properly reattached and sealed--no loose gaskets. This would give you the same kind of readings as a cracked exchanger.
More thoughts, what happens to the other numbers, before and after the blower comes on? Does CO2 nosedive (or O2 go up)? Does draft change?
Some analyzers have a set up to do a heat exchanger test, which basically measures combustion before and after the blower comes on.
Other things that could effect numbers pre/post blower:
1. Open return (with oil, you usually see the draft regulator move when the blower comes on.
2. Restriction in the return (clogged air filter) robbing combustion air.

Just for checking, not for full time operation...

@ November 20, 2013 11:16 PM in Oil burner not firing

What happens if you connect the xx (end switch) on the Taco 4 zone to tt on the aquastat?
I wouldn't leave it this way without solving the low water cut off problem.

Did you check for proper voltage? Is your burner locked out on safety?
If it works after you bypass the LWCO, then obviously the LWCO is wired incorrectly, faulty, or installed incorrectly.

You didn't state where the 'leak' exactly came from?

Sounds like...

@ November 20, 2013 11:06 PM in flow check problem- what should I do?

thermo siphoning (don't know how to spell it)
Put a check on the return. Not a swing check. Not a zone valve either.
You could repipe and trap it.
If you follow the return, how far up the return is the water hot?

How many website forums....

@ November 20, 2013 10:53 PM in OSV and residential Riello F40

You posted...
"...Am I getting yanked around???"

Are we?
How many website forums did you post this question? I count 3


@ November 14, 2013 6:28 PM in Pressure Relief Valve issues

Sorry for yelling. 
Where did you get the ridiculous dangerous notion that the boiler is rated for 160 psi?  If I'm not mistaken, 25psi max  (have to get out the manual).
The 30 psi relief valve is the correct pressure (but wrong valve for your boiler).  The improper installation is the reason for your new problem.  The first problem is an air or piping issue causing the pressure to rise the 30 psi threshold.
Save the pictures.  Tell dumb dumb to get the right relief valve, pipe it correctly.
You may need a new board to fix the problems, which should be on him.
After the problems are fixed, call Munchkin and find a recommend installer for your area for future service and maintenance.
Ill try to find you the manual.
Edit:  Here's a link to the manual


@ November 3, 2013 6:25 PM in One zone on boiler overheats and blows pressure relief valve

Are you sure the circ is pointing in the right direction?  If so, if there's no blockage (you mentioned the crud) I think it's air.  Air blockage, no flow thru the boiler, runs up on temp and pressure.
BTW, how are you reading pressure on the expansion tank? 
The pressure shouldn't change all that much with a properly working system.  My boiler (2 high temp zones, 4 radiant, plus indirect) hardly changes pressure of a pound or 2 all winter.


@ November 3, 2013 6:15 PM in converting a two line system to a single line

You forgot to remove the bypass plug.  Another unfortunate case of a DIY'er trying to save some money.  :)
Follow hotpipe's recommendation.  Your burner may be set to run at a different pressure then what the pump is factory set to.  Then of course, properly connected, bled, pump pressure/vacuum test, and a complete combustion test all need to be done.  And while he's there, have him clean the unit, new filter, nozzle, etc.

Some thoughts...

@ November 2, 2013 10:04 PM in Outside tank info Removal & Install

1. Inside is definitely preferred. Yes you could put in additives, put something around the fuel line, put something in the tank to heat the fuel, or get a heating oil/kerosene mix. They even make enclosures. Then after all that, unless you have an oil line heater at the nozzle, you could end up with cold fuel performance issues. A lot to go thru for an outside tank.
2. Keep in mind there are different styles of tanks with different footprints. They even make a vertical tank that stands on end, also check out Roth Tanks.
3. Site rules prohibit discussing price.
4. Tank removal can be pretty pricey
Btw, did anyone determine the tank is leaking? I think Mass. requires tank testing. Also, what does your insurance company say about the tank?
And finally, call another oil company. Many companies up there.


@ November 2, 2013 9:51 PM in Furnace won't start after oil delivery

1. Could have already been off on safety.
2. Could have been running when you received the delivery, the driver blasted the fuel in on high speed (actual doesn't have to be high speed), stirred up the crud in the bottom, clogged line and/or filter.
Either way, gonna need a service call.

Nice workmanship.......but........

@ October 29, 2013 6:27 PM in does everything look Okay?

I hate to burst your bubble but there are a lot of things wrong.
Flue pipe and draft regulator are way wrong.  Can't see what else is tied in to it, probably an oil fired hot water heater?
Spirovent/water feed/expansion tank are not where I would put them (what's holding the tank up?).
Something is wrong with the manifold, but I can't see down the left side of the boiler to see the return piping.
The mixing valve-where is it getting its cold side mix from?
Is there another circ for the boiler loop?  If not, how does the water, from the zone returns get back into the boiler.
Take a few more pics, from farther back, and from straight on the boiler.  Also up high showing the flue pipe from both appliances.
Just trying to help.

Nothing to do with check valves...

@ October 29, 2013 1:44 PM in baseboard stays cold

Did it ever work right?  Were any modifications made?  When you changed the circ, are you sure you picked the right one.?  What size pipes, etc. etc.? 
More importantly....mono-flo fittings? In other words, why would the water want to go there, or why would it not?
Hard to diagnose without spending some time with the system.
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