Joined on January 26, 2011
Last Post on August 31, 2014
@ October 29, 2013 1:39 PM in Heating IssuesYour best bet is to bring in a pro to look everything over, check continuity, voltages, amps and troubleshoot the entire system
@ October 29, 2013 1:35 PM in Leaking Fuel Pump on Beckett BurnerTake the plug off, make sure the bypass plug is NOT installed, put the plug back on with some pipe dope..cant believe they couldn't figure that out. Once again, this could NOT have been the cause of 5 pump replacements.
Make sure they take the pump completely off, the nozzle assembly, the blower motor/wheel out, and wipe down all the oil that has now been sucked into the burner housing.
It could also be the fitting in the supply side of the pump bad. Also, to quickly change a pump, some people leave the oil line connected to the cover, and reuse the cover. If the cover is cracked warped or wasn't cleaned correctly (with a razor knife), it could leak again.
Once again, after the pump is fixed or replaced, tell them to hook up pressure/vacuum gauges, and show you the readings as the pump operates.
@ October 27, 2013 6:34 PM in Leaking Fuel Pump on Beckett BurnerAre you sure it was actually the pump leaking? How was it diagnosed, besides just oil leaking from it?
Some unaddressed problems could be the culprits (if the pump seals keep blowing out):
Is this a 2 line system? If so, is the return line getting plugged, or kinked? A completely plugged return line will blow a pump out in about 2 seconds.
Is the storage tank way above the pump? So much so that it requires an OSV (more then 3 psi at the inlet)?
Has yearly maintenance been done, specifically oil filter and pump screen? What did they look like? What were the pressure and vacuum readings?
Most people never get a fuel pumped replaced, let alone 5.
Some thing obvious is being overlooked.
@ October 27, 2013 6:24 PM in Diesel for home heating oil #2Where are you located that you can't get a heating oil delivery for 4 days in the fall? Just curious.
As stated above, ULSD, clear & dyed are the same product. Dye is injected at loading so you can purchase it without the road taxes.
@ October 2, 2013 1:15 PM in tankless coil in the winterNothing prevents the domestic hot water from overheating, which is the reason why you need a mixing valve on the domestic water system so you don't scald someone, or worse.
Similar situation with an indirect for the domestic. Generally you'll want the hot water temperature at 140, then mixed down to avoid scalding. Controls and an aquastat on the indirect should prevent you from raising the indirect to 180.
@ September 15, 2013 7:40 PM in need control for system with radiant and baseboardYou could go with Tekmar boiler controls. Will do all you need, ODR, multiple temps, DHW priority/non priority. Plus it has zone controls you can add on, communicating thermostats etc.
You can also do the same thing with Taco products.
Edit. Just to add, both are expandable, but both will cost you some $$$$.$$
@ September 3, 2013 2:13 PM in Radiant heat and condensation worriesYes, you should have mixing and boiler protection. Hopefully you or someone designed the whole system for radiant, and you'll know the temps you'll need. You'll be below 140 for sure and will need pri/sec piping or a 4 way mixing valve, for starters, with outdoor reset. I wouldn't raise the temp just for the one room of baseboard, without doing the math. If your lucky the baseboard is oversized, (or you could add more) and it wont matter. Splitting it into its own zone may cause short cycling.
@ August 25, 2013 9:11 PM in Radiant Floor HelpThat looks interesting. What's been your experience with it?
1. Product availability/lead time?
2. Company support
3. How many jobs have you done with it?
@ August 25, 2013 9:50 AM in Radiant Floor Help"...Warmboard and Raupanel, but they seem awful expensive for a bit of convenience."
Warmboard is easily the way to go. When you factor in everything you are going to need, from the boiler, tubing, manifolds, circs, etc., Having an evenly heated floor makes it all worthwhile. The warmboard will allow you to use less tubing and provide a great base to replace hardwood flooring. Either way your insulating underneath.
I think the idea of buying 5/8" plywood, installing it and routing grooves, is a horrible one. You just wont get even distribution at all. It just wont work.
And running plates underneath the subfloor, in the basement, then running the tubing, with all the pipes in the way...very labor intensive.
The warmboard will go in just as fast as the plywood method--without days of routing. You will still have to do some routing with the warmboard, It's the best way to go for your situation, and the added cost for the superior benefits is well worth it.
Just remember to have it professionally designed (warmboard will help with that). You'll need higher temps under the carpet, and very controlled temps under hardwood. Batt insulation will be fine.
@ August 21, 2013 10:14 PM in New Carbon Monoxide Studies1. Is there a link to the study?
2. What rating was the drywall? Did the study include double drywalled, fully fire-taped, all penetrations sealed?
@ August 18, 2013 4:49 PM in Small 3/8" PEX manifoldsWatts? I thought I remember the manifold that takes a 3/8 or 1/2 pex, depending on the compression rings/adapters.
@ August 13, 2013 9:22 PM in Heat Loss calculation anomaliesWhat software are you using? The reason I ask is because they do things different ways.
1. I would treat the first floor as 2 rooms. Remember in those spaces, the half wall calc in both rooms would show as interior walls.
2. I think you'll get plenty of radiation on the half wall. (89 sq ft). How bout a nice properly sized powder coated radiator?
3. I would just count the second floor hall not the steps. It won't make any difference.
@ July 30, 2013 4:52 PM in Radiant Ceiling spacing effectsAre you sure about that heat loss number? Seems high for 99 sq ft. Are the walls, and ceiling not insulated? Did you calculate insulating the ceiling before you put the tubing in? Does this office have 3 exterior walls and/or lots of large windows?
If all of that is correct, then 56 btu/sq feet will require a pretty high water temp, if it's even do-able.
@ July 30, 2013 4:44 PM in Oil Line Clog & CO2 CartridgeYes, of course it could, will, and most likely did. There's just too much pressure in a cartridge.
I, and many others here will tell you, never use a CO2 cartridge to clear a leak. If I cant clear it with a hand pump (which I almost always have), I replace it. My thought is if its that clogged, the tank is going to need to be treated, or cleaned, or even replaced, and hopefully you have, or will move, the first filter to the tank.
One Wallie here, Icesailor, has told us he uses a compressor with very low air pressure with much success.
@ July 19, 2013 8:17 PM in on line parts pricingFlat rate pricing guides? Just google that and you'll get plenty of hits. Online or printed books. But it's a big industry now, and it's definitely not $299 anymore.
Theres also apps for your iPhone/iPad, but the cheaper ones aren't really modifiable
@ July 15, 2013 9:58 PM in Taco ZVC404-EXP ProblemsI hope your somewhere cold. Without working thru all the wiring with a good meter, it's hard to say. My initial feeling is unless it was struck by lightening, a power surge or hit by water I'd say no. If all the wiring checks out, I'd move to checking the circ. Is your boiler also do domestic hot water?
Is your AC t-stat tricking your heat t-stat to come on? (If you have separate stats).
Just need a full checkout before replacing the controls.
@ July 11, 2013 5:42 PM in White Smoke after shutdownBut if you're a "licensed oil burner tech" you should know how to test & how to correct this obvious/simple problem....
"...the oil vendor, the company that installed the furnace, and the Olsen rep at the home....No problem was found..."
That's a lot of incompetent people to look at a simple furnace problem....
BTW, "...I did a combustion test with a digital analyzer before the fan came on and after the fan came on to verify there was no heat exchanger leakage (which there wasn't)."
This doesn't prove the heat exchanger isn't cracked/leaking. A visual inspection is still required.
Sorry, but based on your post, I just don't feel comfortable telling you what to do.
@ June 30, 2013 6:45 PM in asphalt laminated kraft paper and staple up radiant floor heatAre you sure that your..." just discovered that underlayment is asphalt laminated kraft paper (with some fiber reinforcement)."..isn't asbestos? Pretty popular back in that era. If so, just wondering if that would/could act as an insulator.
@ June 22, 2013 9:27 AM in Multiple ODRs?The contractor has a good solution, ODR is better, if it doesn't conflict with the main control (shouldn't)...but their are better ones, that require some repiping, and different controls.
How is it piped? Are both radiant zones using zone valves?
What are the design temps for each zone?
What's the floor covering on the staple up?
@ June 18, 2013 10:13 PM in Triple Aquatat RElayYour low limit is set too high. The thermostat needs to be wired to T-T on the aquastat. The jumper on the primary control is fine.
But you should have the system checked out, completely troubleshooting the triple aquastat. It's also possible somewhere in that wiring mess something is mis-wired or a loose connection
@ June 14, 2013 10:00 PM in Kitchen heatAnd maybe if you are, is radiant ceiling possible?