Joined on January 26, 2011
Last Post on May 10, 2013
@ April 12, 2012 12:35 PM in Eatherton "flux sponge"This thread is a perfect example of how many people accomplish the same things in different ways. I'm always interested in hearing different opinions.
Any of you guys want to put up a you tube video of your technique? I would think many would like to see the different methods you guys employ.
@ April 10, 2012 4:09 PM in Coomercial Garage Radiant Floor Heattell us more....
New Construction? How many square feet? How often are doors open? What size doors? Where ya located? Did you do a heat loss? Are you using ice melt on the apron(s)? Do you need it to do domestic hot water? What temp do you want to maintain in the garage? How's it insulated? Is their office space too?...etc, etc.
Basically, and depending on these answers, I would do a heat loss/load. You'll probably discover you need 12" on center in the garage, and 6-8" centers in office/bathroom space. A full design will tell.
Insulating underneath the slab and the perimeters are a must.
You should probably use glycol.
You can make it as easy or as complicated as your budget will allow.
@ March 28, 2012 8:13 AM in thermostat questionWhat kind of thermostat? (take a pic).
Are you sure the t'stat was put back on heat?
Is it programmable?
If so, does it say it's calling for heat? If it is, then it's not the t'stat.
What kind of heating system?
@ March 27, 2012 5:12 PM in 2 Zones / 5 ThermostatsFirst, can you contact the previous owner and ask them how everything works?
If not, you probably have 5 zones. Just because you see pipes going in 2 different directions, you may have them branch into different zones, by way of zone valves. Or you may have valves on your radiant manifolds that are controlled by the thermostats.
Can you take some pics of the controls near your boiler? Also one a little further back so we can see the piping near the boiler. And one at each manifold station. Then we can guide you better.
@ March 27, 2012 1:58 PM in Insulation questionDon't forget you need to consider that yes, it's an air gap, but also, heat moves to cold. So when the attic is colder then the rooms below it, the heat will migrate into the attic, and vice versa.
More important reason for attic venting is moisture control. Condensation will accumulate on the undersides of the roof sheathing and other surfaces, with mold right behind it. So be on the lookout for mushrooms and mold.
One solution, albeit pricey, would be to have an insulation contractor come in and spray foam all the ceiling joist bays, and gable walls.
Less pricey would be to insulate the bays, making sure you provide an air space between insulation and the underside of the roof sheathing, put vents in the soffits, and use either a gable vent or full length ridge vent--and also insulate the gable walls.
@ March 27, 2012 10:25 AM in It is OK to turn a 14 section cast iron commercial boiler on and off every day?and I understand you came here looking for help. In most cases, you will get many responses for help. But once Mark steps in and advises you, it's pretty much the final, and usually the best, well researched/experienced answer. He just happened to get to you sooner, and the rest of us mere mortals benefit as well:)
I, as well as many here, are always grateful, when he, and some of the other very experienced professionals, take time out of their busy days to respond.
Keep posting ME, and watch out for those wildfires.
@ March 26, 2012 9:29 PM in It is OK to turn a 14 section cast iron commercial boiler on and off every day?Asked and answered a few weeks ago?
@ March 26, 2012 4:52 PM in Steam pipes ticking noise1. Either classic expansion noise.
2. Because you mention when it's wet, maybe something dripping down a stack.
Unfortunately, it could be coming from any place where it contacts the pipes, and resonating thru the pipes...
@ March 26, 2012 8:58 AM in Awareness: A little tidbit #2For your response. What do they say at airport security when then they see it?
@ March 24, 2012 11:33 AM in Awareness: A little tidbit #2Great advice!! Which one do you use? I've been using the Uei, about the size of a small cell phone.
@ March 21, 2012 3:37 PM in Adding 220 sq ft radiant to existing systemKcopp's suggestion: looks like you need 5 or 6 pieces of 4x8, t & g, 1 1/8" warmboard. It costs a little more, but after deducting the price of 3/4 t&g, I think it's well worth it, much easier, much less labor intensive. And you get a better job.
@ March 16, 2012 6:05 PM in Adding C-wire to radiant system that uses 2-wire thermostats?First of all, your schematic didnt attach.
From the thermostat:
w goes on t
r goes on t
c goes to #1 on the Zone 1 block. #1, on the Zone 1 block is going to a 2-wire zone valve (no end switch). #2 on the Zone 1 block goes to the zone valve. 3&4 are jumpered.
Repeat for other zones.
http://www.taco-hvac.com/uploads/FileLibrary/100-9.0.pdf start on page 51.
edit: Before you wire it up...what kind of thermostat? What kind of zone valves? What are you looking to do with the t-stat/3rd wire?
@ March 14, 2012 2:57 PM in CO detection over the fire in an oil furnaceJudging by your post, I think the following....
1. 14ppm is not high in the smoke pipe, actually kind of low unless this is a new furnace. Burner might be out of adjustment.
2. The fact that you were reading 4ppm in the rooms means (to me) either:
a) you have a cracked heat exchanger
b) the cleanout ports werent attached properly (or loose or missing gaskets).
This is supported by the fact that you picked up some CO in the plenum.
As far as the chimney, did anyone check the draft? Or do a complete combustion analysis of the unit?
I would have the chimney guy check (with a camera) and do what he has to do to certify the chimney is fine. It's probably going to need to be lined.
Then I would pull the burner, open up the plenum and do all the things we do to look for a crack in the heat exchanger. If it visually looks fine, I would proceed to do a complete service on the unit--the works, including pump pressure, vacuum cleaning, check all components, nozzle etc.
Id get my personal UEI CO detector zero'd out in fresh air, go in the house with my combustion equipment, and fire it up.
Let it run 10 minutes, checking ambient CO, then check/adjust draft, smoke test, and adjust with combustion analyzer. If everything is good, and there's no ambient CO, you're good to go.
I would stress again, especially in this instance, to zero out your personal CO monitor, and wear it the whole time. You wanna know if its kicking out CO right away. If so, shut it down, open the windows, go out to your truck and get your 'new furnace' literature out.
@ March 14, 2012 10:07 AM in Myson 7000 toekick heaterin the return? And if that doesnt work, both supply and return (fpr a toekick)? Would a globe valve between the 2 tees work, something you could throttle to force flow into the toekick?
@ March 13, 2012 10:54 PM in looking for manual/instructions for an old thermostat...Curiosity got the best of me. Took it apart, found the patent #,1171955, patented on Feb15, 1916, by none other then Mark C. Honeywell himself. Titled. "Automatic Thermostat Control".
Would still be interested from anyone to find some literature, or a picture of it in a catalog.
Thanks from everyone for all the input.
@ March 13, 2012 10:36 PM in liability insuranceBut I would check with Federated Insurance. They do a lot with contractors, petroleum, and HVAC companies. After 9/11, they were one of the few companies still writing for the petroleum industry, and also they didn't quadruple their prices, like the others.
@ March 13, 2012 10:31 PM in looking for manual/instructions for an old thermostat...It's very nice of you to help. Keep in mind there's absolutely no hurry as this is just for my curiosity.
As far as markings, right above the thermometer is reads "Honeywell temperature regulator". The ones I found close to this always say "Minneapolis Honeywell".
Also on the top of the housing is stamped "TYPE R"
When I get a few minutes, I'm going to take a few screws out to check for a patent #.
@ March 13, 2012 5:52 PM in looking for manual/instructions for an old thermostat...I knew I shouldve asked you first :). I scoured the patent office website for far too long, and found ones close, but not this particular model.
You wouldnt happen to have a manual for that thermostat, or instructions for one in one of your books? I would be very interested in purchasing if you did.
@ March 13, 2012 7:54 AM in looking for manual/instructions for an old thermostat...That helps a lot. :)
@ March 12, 2012 7:59 AM in Water not going to boilerThe red light you are referring to is your low water cutoff. Are you sure water is going in as you add it? Maybe the water feed is blocked/plugged not letting water pass. If this is not the case, the water has to be going somewhere, right? Are your return lines piped correctly? In other words, do you have a Hartford loop, or could water be flowing directly into a wrongly piped return, and leaking out somewhere?
@ March 12, 2012 7:53 AM in Old House Advice: Remove Radiators, Get AC?Oops double post