Joined on January 26, 2011
Last Post on December 7, 2013
@ June 16, 2012 8:09 PM in Boiler wont fire unless..A coil for DHW, or an indirect?
If a coil, then you have to troubleshoot your control.
If you have an indirect, you may still have air in the piping, or once again, troubleshoot the control
@ June 16, 2012 8:04 PM in Hot Water ConfusionThe thermostat, actually an aquastat, causes the boiler to fire, running the temperature up to its pre set limit. Under the configuration you describe, the tank is just for storing hot water. The problem is you need a Themostatic mixing valve. The hot water needs to be stored at a temp over 120 degrees, then mixes down to a safe temperature. How the so called professional didn't immediately tell you that this must be done, is unfortunate, unprofessional, and potentionally dangerous.
You didn't quite say how or why this needs to be replaced, but make sure you add the mixing valve
@ June 13, 2012 2:19 PM in Vacation Plans (OT)Dan were you aware that the Fudge store is have a special....."today only"....?.lol
@ June 5, 2012 4:36 PM in Thanks to Gateway Plumbing and Heating Help - NJThanks for popping back on to thank those that helped you, and to praise a wall-ie. I'm sure they appreciate it.
@ June 2, 2012 11:27 AM in Awareness: A little tidbit #4The senior tech wont be there when the disaster happens. So where should you go from here? Does anyone else have suggestions for the next step? I guess they touched it last. Who else should you involve, the fire marshall, a building inspector? Just wondering how others have handled, or think this should be handled?
Obviously, Plumdog is very concerned about the H/O health and well being.
@ May 25, 2012 10:48 AM in Possible Leak in Residential BoilerIt's ok that he used that, emphasis on "ok". He shouldve used a gasket material to do it the right way. If he didnt have any, he shouldve got some and came back. The furnace cement will dry up hard, then probably crack. leaving you with a less then ideal seal, lowering your combustion numbers/efficiency, and lead to a little more sooting.
There really is no excuse to not swing the door open every year and clean out the bottom of the boiler. Even if it's not a swing open and just a plate, removing the oil line and 4 bolts should be a part of every cleaning, especially a boiler with summer/winter hookup.
Bring that up when you talk to the owner.
@ May 24, 2012 2:58 PM in Possible Leak in Residential BoilerYou did 2 of the tests to check for leaks. What did the flue pipe look like? Or the base of the chimney?
Red powder, or rust in the stack is more of a sign of condensing in the flue way.
You need an actual professional in there, to check your equipment, and your chimney.
What were your combustion results from the annual cleaning, specifically the net stack temperature?
When he did the cleaning, didnt he swing the front door open to expose the entire firing chamber (and clean it)?
As someone who owns an oil company, I would be embarressed if I left you with the feeling that you need to constantly check your boiler.
So yes, get someone else, preferably a recommendation from this site. Where are you located?
@ May 24, 2012 8:05 AM in Lochinvar install photos with centro-therm flue pipeFantastic piping job! Cleanest electrical work too!
@ May 20, 2012 2:35 PM in heat loadmeasure the entire house, all windows, doors, and other factors, etc. I wouldnt put too much faith in the nozzle, because it could be the wrong one. Also, who knows how the last boiler was sized...could be over or undersized.
Slant fin has a free program for download
or you could do it manually.
Weil McClain also has some literature for sizing. I actually compared it to some of the heat losses I perfomed and it was pretty close. Dont have a link, but go their website.
@ May 16, 2012 10:42 AM in carlin 301 crdAre you having a problem? What's it firing into?
Should be a standard single stage 3450 @150psi, BUT, it depends what youre firing it into...
Post the make and model of the boiler....and we can help some more..
@ May 11, 2012 1:04 PM in boiler feed on or off?a pressure reducing valve, with the boiler feed valve. I use a boiler feed with a backflow preventer, leave it closed, and install a lwco...always. I want them to call me if the system is leaking, rather then constanly feeding the boiler.
@ May 10, 2012 9:37 PM in Taco sr606http://www.taco-hvac.com/uploads/FileLibrary/100-9.0.pdf
@ May 10, 2012 4:32 PM in Cell Block HeatingLast year, about this time. Was fargin cold. I love the city, but geez.....when do they turn the wind off? :)
@ May 10, 2012 4:29 PM in Taco sr606glad to see you followed my advice to disconnect the tsat wires. Next step...disconnect the tsat wires going to the thermostat, leaving the tstat wires in the relay...if the lights go off, its the tstat. If the lights stay on its the wiring.
You can double check that by removing the tsat wires from the tstat, and removing them from the relay. Use your meter to see if your getting continuity. If you are, with all wires disconnected, your wire is bad/shorting out.
I would follow up, like ME said, with taco, regarding power stealing t'stats.
Also Taco has a wiring book that's pretty excellent, and covers all wiring options.
@ May 9, 2012 5:55 PM in Taco sr606"Can a taco box work with tekmar boxes?" What are you trying to accomplish?
Do you mean can you wire a taco zone control to a tekmar boiler control? Sure.
When you say the zone lights are on, but the thermostats are not calling, are the circs running? What happens when you disconnect the t'stat from the 506? If the circs are still getting power, then the taco is bad.
Provide a little more info, and people will be glad to help.
@ May 9, 2012 5:40 PM in Old radiant systemI think you would benefit both in comfort, and savings by changing some near boiler piping, and adding outdoor reset to all zones, and a mixing valve to mix down your radiant, and like Paul said, to protect your boiler.
Please make sure you have someone who knows what they're doing.
Ask them to perform a complete heat loss for your home, to determine how many btu's you need for each zone, and at what temperatures. If they dont want to do any of the calculating, don't let them do any of the piping/controls.
@ May 9, 2012 5:32 PM in air in heating pipesAbout your system. If you can, take some pictures showing all the piping around the boiler. And especially show your expansion tank.
For starters, 2 different things could be going on. You have a small leak, and when your feed is opening up, letting in fresh water, the air cant get out, and stays airbound. Or something is up with your piping, and the air vent is sucking in air, and sending it around the system to get trapped somewhere else.
@ May 6, 2012 9:56 PM in oil fired hot water run with out waterPLEASE UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCE, DO NOT PLUG THE PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE. EVER!!!
As the others have said, you need to get a pro in there, there are a few on this site near your area.
Also, you need to keep the flooring guy to stop touching your system.
@ May 5, 2012 3:46 PM in Need help with heating & hot water setup for tight spaceBut I'm on the road, typing on my phone. But someone will pop on to help you.
Energy kinetics and Buderus make boilers that stack on top of an indirect.
I also can't believed, no mater how poorly insulated, you need 100,000 btus for 1200 sq ft, only exposed on 2 sides.
Some wall mounts can use the same venting you're using now.
If no one responds, I'll get back on tomorrow.
@ May 4, 2012 4:05 PM in steam boiler written spec neededin Ohio? He's listed on this site.
@ May 3, 2012 3:51 PM in Critical article on Tankless water heatershttp://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/musings/are-tankless-water-heaters-waste-money?lookup=auto&V27=R&V28=5&V29=10&V30=N&V31=&V32=0&V33=0&V34=0&V35=0&V55=01-JAN-2013&V56=0&Taun_Per_Flag=True&utm_source=email&utm_medium=eletter&utm_term=water-heating&utm_content=20120416-concrete-countertops&utm_campaign=fine-homebuilding-eletter&utm_source=May+3%2C+2012&utm_campaign=Email+Newsletter+Analytics&utm_medium=email