Joined on January 26, 2011
Last Post on December 7, 2013
@ May 3, 2012 3:48 PM in Computer programs to run your business ?Unless you have a large company, Wintac is a pretty expensive propostion.
How exactly are you using it in/for your business?
@ May 3, 2012 3:46 PM in making a conversionWhat did each person propose (equipment, oil/gas, piping changes, control strategy,etc)?
Please leave out the pricing.
Either application can work fine, depending on all the other factors. Luckily neither one suggested not relining the chimney.
@ May 3, 2012 3:40 PM in In ceiling electric radiant heat and lightsIf you can't find out, what kind of radiant is in your ceiling, how do you expect anyone to help?
There's no way to contact previous owners to find out who installed it? Maybe a permit was pulled and you can find the contractor.
Other then that, when you say use it as a back up, do you mean only when there's a problem with the gas, or do you need it on the coldest day of the year?
The only other options, and others I'm sure may have a better solutions, get an infrared camera, fire up the radiant, and mark on the ceiling where the wires are running. If your lucky and it works, you'll see some initial striping.
Anyone? Anyone else?
@ May 3, 2012 3:33 PM in Drippy ReliefI think you definately need an expansion tank.
Look at page 9.
Regarding the shower issues, how is the recirc line, and pump controlled?
edit: Also you'll need another check in the cold domestic side.
@ May 1, 2012 3:50 PM in L8184E, 2 circulators, one T calls, high limit exceededI think your high limit isnt working, or isnt working correctly, for starters. It should either work everytime or it needs to be replaced. I would pull it, make sure you have some well grease, then reinsert it. If the doesnt fit snug in the well, make sure you slightly bend the wire to ensure the bulb is making contact with the well. Then fire it back up, either on the small zone, or disconnect the circulator and let it run up the temp and see if it shuts off on high limit. If it doesnt, or does sometimes and not others, you need to replace it.
The small zone just might be the reason why it's running up to limit, but the limit should work when either zone calls, and shut down the burner.
Checking the smaller zone circuit. Go through your basic trouble shooting. Check all wire connections. Going into the relay, are you getting 120v? Coming out of the relay, are you getting 120v (when the tsat is calling for heat)? Check your low voltage side. Going into the circ, same testing. If everything is ok there, then you can move on to see if the zone is getting heat. Do you have enough pressure? Did you confirm with a separate gauge? Bleed the zone again (circ off). Call for heat in the zone, check supply and return pipes. Could be bad/wrong circ, bad impeller, flow check stuck, or built up with crud and cant fully open/close. This might be why you get heat when the other zone calls. Is there a flow check on this loop?
You could repipe with one circ with a zone valves. However, you might run into a balancing problem when both zones are calling. So you will need to consider that with a re-pipe.
I would solve your first problems via troubleshooting, and worry about re-piping and a different control strategy second. Like resident gure Icesailor always says, If it was working before, what changed?
@ April 29, 2012 3:44 PM in Chimney: Is B-vent on top of masonry chimney possible?After all of that, go with the SS. Aluminum can even be damaged during transport
@ April 29, 2012 3:38 PM in Return Air Duct: Incline Necessary?Probably just a little laziness from the Installer (finish quicker or go get one more piece?), or maybe there are some takeoffs coming out of the top of the return.
@ April 29, 2012 3:34 PM in Manually opening Erie zone valve sends power to the end switch?It just detected some flow. Did you remove power to the valve before switching it to manual?
@ April 29, 2012 3:27 PM in Radiant layoutWhat size tubing & how are you fastening it? Staple up w/without plates, staple down for wet bed, subray, warmboard, tying to wire mesh?
@ April 26, 2012 2:37 PM in Opinions please on outside reset controlsOutdoor reset may not cure your expansion noises. Depends on the cause of the noise. If its rubbing against some bare wood, in through a tight hole, for example, you're still going to hear it.
You could easily go with a Taco zone control, with ODR, & priorty for DHW. Or a Tekmar unit, with a Zone Manager. Also Beckett makes the AquaSmart & Heat Manager products.
Any one of these, applied properly to your application, will save you some money.
@ April 26, 2012 2:31 PM in Infloor PEX tubes at control jointsHere's something that should help
@ April 24, 2012 9:32 PM in 007 Whole Building Backflow PreventerI probably could've phased my reply differently. Instead of 'mandated' I should've said they don't enforce it. And local municipalities don't require it unless its new construction or a plumbing permit is pulled on a remodel.
@ April 24, 2012 11:40 AM in 007 Whole Building Backflow PreventerAround here they havent mandated it, but the water company has taken the lead. And they have plenty of leverage.
@ April 20, 2012 10:58 AM in Might be puchasing a home with original 1950's boiler?Please remember, you're not suppose to discuss pricing.
It's definately old, probably a gravity system (did you see any circulators?)
You are correct to start with a full heat loss, and replace with a new, non-condensing oil boiler, unless you can get gas on your street. Then you can go with a mod-con, or even propane. The new one will be much smaller. And you could eventually do youre domestic hot water off of it when the hot water heater goes.
Chimney lining is definately recommended, considering you'll only need a 5 or 6 inch flue. You really should have the unit evaluated before putting it into service. One like this I saw in the fall, similiar situation, was burning with best adjustment over 1000ppm of carbon monoxide in the flue, with about 8ppm around the appliance. So it was replaced.
Peerless is fine, just make sure you get a boiler with a swing out door for inspection and cleaning. Also even without the new regs, you should get outdoor reset, and definitatly make sure (if its non-condensing) that the plumber put in a bypass line (or 4way mixing). If he doesnt know what that is, or says you dont need it, you should find someone else. Burnham MPO is also a nice cast iron boiler.
Before you do the heatloss, you really have to figure out the insulation. It will make a big difference in the size of your boiler, and you dont ever want to oversize. And consider if you're replacing the windows, also will affect boiler size. With a heatloss program, you can put the info in as is, get your total loss, then with upgraded windows, and insulation, and get your total loss. Once again, dont oversize.
For programs, why not have the contractor do the heat loss. If he doesnt own the software, and he should, usually the supply house has great (expensive) software and will perform the heatloss for contractors who buy from them as a courtesy. Slantfin has a free program to download. You do need a working knowledge of doing a heat loss to get accurate numbers.
@ April 20, 2012 10:36 AM in Riello burner with New Yorker boiler?double posted again....this time I know it wasnt me :)
@ April 20, 2012 10:36 AM in Riello burner with New Yorker boiler?First....you're not suppose to discuss pricing....
1. How efficient is your current system running? Was an efficiency test performed? What are the numbers?
2. If yes to #1, what efficiency is he promising you with the new Riello?
3. What's the model # on the New Yorker, what Beckett Burner is in the Boiler, and what model # Riello is he offering to install?
4. The Beckett isnt unreliable. Nozzles have nothing to do with the burner, and a coupling fails for the same reasons on any burner.
5. My guess, he has a Riello sitting around (refurbished by who?), pulled out of a conversion job, or whatever, and he's looking to make some more money off of you.
Get us the info in #3, and we can advise you further.
BTW, why did you get a cleaning AND a new circ? Did he come out for a cleaning and sold you a circ, or did he come out for the circ, and stay for the cleaning?
@ April 19, 2012 4:39 PM in Spray FoamYou have a staple up radiant system. This is deemed by most people here as not the best way to do radiant, but it will work.
Aluminum plates would have been a better job, giving you better contact and better heat transfer. It just means that you're going to have to run hotter water through the system.
If it was designed properly, and its working the way it is, then your ok.
@ April 19, 2012 3:10 PM in Effect of 1/2" PEX Section on Baseboard LoopYeah it keeps us busy, but it aggravates the youknowwhat out of me. People can make money even if they're a hackasaures. I blame it on something I've noticed starting about 15 years ago--the Home Depot Effect.
Before (and still now, for me), a contractor had to go to a supply house, have an account, build a relationship, learn their trade through time/education/experience, etc., to be in business. But now, anyone with a van and a HD charge is a 'contractor'. No regs for them...no sense of pride or professionalism. Just hack away and cash a check.
Thats why I do everything possible to avoid tools, and especially parts, from a company that lets a big box store sell anything to a customer, with no regard of the consequences. Yes....I'll go there in a pinch, or a Sunday, then get mad at myself for my poor planning.
In my area (Philly suburbs) there are plenty of supply houses to support, and I always go there first.
Sorry about the hijack, and the rant.
@ April 19, 2012 2:59 PM in Chimney: Is B-vent on top of masonry chimney possible?That chimney has to go, and it will, either mechanically, or catastropy.
It should be taken down, then you could use it as a chase for your vent pipes, following manufactures recommendations for roof terminations (height, distances, etc.
@ April 19, 2012 2:52 PM in Floor thickness questionFirst, good luck missing the tubing when you install all that wood. Second, a very poor transfer of heat. You're going to have to get a much hotter water temp to get the heat thru all that wood.
If you have to get the tile floors flush with the wood floors, a better way to go would be to install wood sleepers, to get you to the subfloor height, then lightweight gypcrete flush to the sleepers, nailing the finish floor to the sleepers.. Keep in mind your still increasing the slab thickness, and now the pipes are buried deeper.
Also, you (someone) has to make sure the floors done this way have seperate temperature controls.
Finally, how would you ever make a repair on this floor, or find a leak, if done the first way proposed.
@ April 16, 2012 11:29 PM in Ventilating a Cape atticTemperature controlled attic fans are waste. They are installed to cover other deficiencies.
Roofs need to be vented at the eaves, so air can flow up into the eaves and out either a ridge vent (which you obviously don't have with a slate roof), or properly sized gable vents.
If your ceiling is properly insulated, the temperature of the attic is mostly inconsequential. Using a whole house fan to pull air into your house and hopefully push it up into the attic (with not enough ventilation), to cool your house, wastes a lot of energy and makes your house dustier. Also, if you have the fan running, and any fuel burning appliance running, (boiler, how water heater, fireplace, etc), you could easily pull carbon monoxide into the living spaces.
The real remedy is to update, upgrade, increase the attic insulation, make sure the gable vents are properly sized and free of obstructions, proper eave vents, and remove the attic fan.