Joined on January 26, 2011
Last Post on May 23, 2013
@ March 13, 2012 10:31 PM in looking for manual/instructions for an old thermostat...It's very nice of you to help. Keep in mind there's absolutely no hurry as this is just for my curiosity.
As far as markings, right above the thermometer is reads "Honeywell temperature regulator". The ones I found close to this always say "Minneapolis Honeywell".
Also on the top of the housing is stamped "TYPE R"
When I get a few minutes, I'm going to take a few screws out to check for a patent #.
@ March 13, 2012 5:52 PM in looking for manual/instructions for an old thermostat...I knew I shouldve asked you first :). I scoured the patent office website for far too long, and found ones close, but not this particular model.
You wouldnt happen to have a manual for that thermostat, or instructions for one in one of your books? I would be very interested in purchasing if you did.
@ March 13, 2012 7:54 AM in looking for manual/instructions for an old thermostat...That helps a lot. :)
@ March 12, 2012 7:59 AM in Water not going to boilerThe red light you are referring to is your low water cutoff. Are you sure water is going in as you add it? Maybe the water feed is blocked/plugged not letting water pass. If this is not the case, the water has to be going somewhere, right? Are your return lines piped correctly? In other words, do you have a Hartford loop, or could water be flowing directly into a wrongly piped return, and leaking out somewhere?
@ March 12, 2012 7:53 AM in Old House Advice: Remove Radiators, Get AC?Oops double post
@ March 12, 2012 7:52 AM in Old House Advice: Remove Radiators, Get AC?You said, you don't want radiators, but removing them is not an option? And the boiler was just replaced? A simple change to your control strategy (adding out door reset) may be all you need to lower the water temp. If you have to keep small fingers off the radiators, you could buy/make covers for them (I personally never like them), which would cut down on the heat, based on design, and keep people from touching a possible hot surface.
I'd keep the rads/boiler, and add the a/c. Hopefully some of your neighbors will let you take a look at their A/C systems to give you some do/don't ideas.
@ March 10, 2012 2:44 PM in How much time are youIn response to JDB, I agree with the others. If the boiler supply and return have shut offs, and can be isolated, no big deal. If they're not, especially in a house with big radiators, you're looking at some drain down, refill, and bleed. And probably a repeat call to bleed them again. Some of the house are pig stye's, and you have to go into every room and move furniture, take of rad covers, & bleed them. I go with SWEI's advice and tell them I'm going to check it, and if it fails, this is what it's going to cost to replace it (based on the system). It's also a good time to add some of the valves they're going to need (or should have) for servicing.
I would like to know what happens, legal wise, when a valve fails closed. Who really is to blame. Like most everything else, if it worked when you checked it, then failed the next day, who gets the blame. And how do you really check it? Close off the expansion tank, run the pressure up until it blows? And how do you prove you checked it? Video tape? Seems ambiguous at best. I remember, when taking an electrical class, the instructor said, (and I'm paraphasing) "A circuit breaker is UL tested to only trip once. If it trips it must be replaced". Now who does that :)
@ March 10, 2012 12:35 PM in new home in Northeast...radiant heat solution?When you do radiant ceilings, you still like the 3/4" warmboard? Also, do you insist (hopefully request) the electricians to use old work hihats?
@ March 10, 2012 12:32 PM in Webstone check flangesI just received their full catalog last week...and nowhere was Cv mentioned...So maybe they'll put out a bulletin, or have one handy when people ask.
@ March 10, 2012 9:40 AM in looking for manual/instructions for an old thermostat...I'm going to take you up on the offer :)
First, let me take some better pics of it, with arrows pointing at all the 'confusing' parts lol.
@ March 9, 2012 4:48 PM in Buffer AdditionFor taking your time to get somthing thru my skull :). Great explanation, very detailed. Hope I'm not hijacking Peter's thread.
@ March 9, 2012 4:28 PM in looking for manual/instructions for an old thermostat...Yeah that about all I could find in your archives. Thanks for taking your time.
@ March 9, 2012 12:07 PM in looking for manual/instructions for an old thermostat...I found a catalog on this site that shows a similiar one from 1920's, but cant figure out all the knobs, and buttons. Nice little work of art from a time when America made everything--tiny little gears & screws, and the clock still keeps accurate time (if I wind it).
@ March 9, 2012 9:15 AM in new home in Northeast...radiant heat solution?Find a contractor. Sounds like you have a home design in mind, do you have blueprints? If you do, you could give those to a well qualified hydronics contractor. He could do a heat loss, and give you a rough estimate, based on how the radiant will be done, as well as talk to you about equipment, control strategies etc.
Installing radiant, you pay for superior comfort. Also, logistically, you (or your contractor) will have alot more coordinating with the different trades. If your putting tubing in the concrete, the concrete guy will charge you more, plus the hvac guy has to be on site earlier, and air up the tubing, and supervise the pour.
If your doing a staple up with aluminum plates, more labor, plus you have to let the plumber know where things are going so he doesnt put pipes in the wrong place. Same goes for central air.
Or maybe you do radiant ceilings, extra work for the drywallers,or warmboard, in which case you have to account for the extra height when framing doors, etc.
Gypecrete? Extra work, extra labor, extra weight.
There's just too many variables, to tell you how much 'extra' it will be. And it's kind of hard to call it extra, because it costs what it costs, and your not really comparing apples to apples.
But like I said, give the prints to your hvac guy, or a supply house that could design your system, and that will put you in the ball park.
And you could, with all bells and whistles, and the extra material/labor, get near that 'extra' 20k, but most likely you'll be about half that.
@ March 8, 2012 9:35 PM in Buffer AdditionThanks for posting the piping & wiring diagrams. Very thoughtful, and helpful.
One quick question for Tim. In your system, say during a call for heat, the boiler is off, the buffer is supplying the heat, temp in the tank is dropping, and now the sensor tells the boiler to fire. 10 seconds later, the call from the zone ends, does the boiler then turn off (short cycle)? If not, what makes the boiler continue to run, and to what temperature will it run up to? I assume its target temp is on the reset curve, but when the zone stops calling (as in my system with the Tekmar 374), doesnt the boiler demand end and the burner shut off?
@ March 8, 2012 9:18 PM in looking for manual/instructions for an old thermostat...Hi, was wondering (hoping) someone may have, in an old book or catalog, a manual for this thermostat.
@ March 7, 2012 9:15 PM in Webstone check flangesFor about 3 years now, even on my own system. No problems yet.
@ March 7, 2012 7:13 PM in WM Ultra 155 - DH TimerIn all likelyhood, if you have no hot water drips/leaks, your indirect probably wont even run the boiler over night.
@ March 6, 2012 8:13 AM in A tricky question about the economics of heating a garageNeed to have the ceiling fire rated. The existing ceiling there now is, or should be, fire-rated by code. What happens below that doesn't need to be. But if someone insists, the ceiling tiles can be fire rated.
@ March 6, 2012 8:05 AM in What could be the problemIt's most likely time for a new tech. It appears you got a parts changer and not a professional troubleshooter. What did the tech do/say when it reached temp and didn't start? Surely he stayed to observe one complete cycle before leaving.....obviously not. Before he left, did he do a complete check of the combustion with his combustion analyzer? He obviously didn't check everything, or you would still have heat. Unless your burner is ancient, or has something seriously wrong with it, it can be fixed by a properly trained pro. Post some pics if you can. And get that tech back to figure out/fix your burner, or have his boss come out with him.