Joined on March 28, 2011
Last Post on February 8, 2014
@ February 8, 2014 5:41 PM in WM Eco BoilersWe have put 2 or 3 in.
Perfect for replacing a failing modcon.
Has ODR, basic control, good price point.
The value is there.
@ January 18, 2014 11:18 PM in Noise from Boiler and Hot Water TankHow about some simple stuff.
When was the last time the power vent motor was cleaned and oiled? Your owners manual should tell you how and when to do so.
A few drips of 3in1/20 weight/electric motor oil in the 2 oil ports of the motor, and blow out the vents on the motor with some compressed air.
Try that, Good luck
@ June 15, 2013 5:34 PM in Bridging the gap Hydronics to ACForgive me father Techman for I have sinned.
I had a micron gauge on my last set of gauges. I (doubting thomas/andrew) never trusted it. My new set of gauges are a yellow jacket 4-valve analog set, and I can only get away with spending so much of my bosses money. Maybe I don't have the coconuts to demand a good micron gauge. I don't want to get stuck with the crappiest $70 gauge that I won't trust, that's probably what I'll end up with if I demand one. I know this is kinda a cop-out, but untill I get that magic gauge I think I'll be letting my vacuum pump run for a long time everytime.
PS: Any recommendations on micron gauges?
@ June 15, 2013 12:13 PM in Bridging the gap Hydronics to ACGo for it NY.
Try to stick with 1 brand. We use Fujitsu, great product, Mitsubishi is another good one. I will tell you almost all of the problems I have are 'Installer error', I do most of the mini-splits at my shop so its usually me that screwed up. What I mean is the better you get at installing them the more trouble free they are. If you do have an issue, do not hesitate to call tech support!
Must have tools:
-A good 410a flareing tool.(I use a yellow jacket 60278 and love it) A dab of oil on the cone helps. This will do most of the reaming of the pipe for you.(don't over ream the pipe before you flare)
-Nitogen. Since I started using nitro about 3-4 years ago call backs for leaks have ended! The nitro is cheap, leaks are not. I usually test to 300-350psi.
-Decent vaccum pump. I don't use a micron gauge(some people will shame me for that). But if I can't find a leak with nitro I'm not gonna find it with a vacuum. Just make sure you pump it down long enough. Keep your pump maintained.
Eventually you will need a recovery unit, the appion g5 twin is the best bang for your buck, its fast.
Like anything you install, the more you install, the better/faster you get. I have yet to have a customer regret buying mini-splits. Good training is worth every penny.
@ April 13, 2013 12:36 PM in Using a tankless for comfort radiant heatNO
If you have read up on this like you say, you wouldn't be asking about this, you would already know better.
@ April 2, 2013 11:17 PM in Cork?Hey guys,
Looking into flooring options for the kitchen floor. This cork stuff has caught my attention. Wondering if anyone had any opinions on heating it. The idea would be to use extruded plates under the subfloor.
@ March 8, 2013 7:13 AM in Hanging a circHey guys, I may sound like an idiot with this one...
Monday I will be replacing series 60 B&G circ (70 lbs).
I'm told its about 5' off the ground, and the flanges are connected to copper.
I want to know of a good way to support this thing, I can't see just setting on unistrut.
I don't often stray out of residential, but I do what I'm told, and I'd like to do it right.
@ March 2, 2013 7:17 PM in Your State...I am a residential pipefitter. I work on boilers, boilers, and boilers, oh ya and some ac too.
In MN the state offers a high pressure steam license and a plumbing license. I don't have ether, I can't tell you about plumbing.
The permits are pulled with the local city, in the metro area most suburbs only require a contractor's license.
Minneapolis and St. Paul both require the shop to have a master license for whatever your doing and someone with a journeyman license on the job. I.E.: for me to put in a boiler in Minneapolis I need my journeyman gas and journeyman hot water/low pressure steam, both of them in Minneapolis, and someone at my shop must have a master in both to pull the permit. If I were to put in a mini-split I would need my journeyman refrigeration license. If I worked on tin I would need a 'warm air' card. This is why most of my work is in Minneapolis and St. Paul. I am required to have all licenses in both towns.
Some random cities in the metro require/recip a Minneapolis or St Paul license.
Sometimes I wonder why some towns even want you to pull a permit. Since some of the inspectors don't know what a boiler is. However they are part of the reason why I get paid well to do this job I love.
@ January 25, 2013 10:09 PM in Cleaning a heat exchangerEco-Lyme by nu-calgon
Just tried it the other day cleaning out a gionni. I won't go back to CLR if I can help it. I used a 50-50 mix, worked well, less odor than CLR.
I had to pester someone at my local Johnstone for a better alt than CLR, but now they stock it. Price is almost the same as buying the CLR by the big jug at the home store.
PS: it freezes at around 15*
@ December 17, 2012 8:49 PM in vent screensMy local Johnstone supply has 'Bird screens'.
@ November 19, 2012 10:04 PM in Infloor Radiant Heat issueIs this going to be your retirement home? Are you planning on staying year round?
I think the best idea might be an LP boiler. You could look into heat pump mini-splits, then you'll have air too. They will heat down to -5*. It will get colder than that up there tho.
Heres a few pics, these are located near Bemidji (not year round, but close).
@ November 12, 2012 7:56 PM in Spud removal, did I go too far?The best thing to use is expando (http://www.xpando.com/pjc.html).
Its not easy to find, 3 out of 4 wholesalers don't stock it. If they do, they probably don't know what it is. Follow the directions and violia, works like a champ.
@ November 7, 2012 9:06 PM in Combustion analyzerThanks for your input guys.
No dice on getting a new analyzer this year. I think it was doomed from the start, asking for tools with a hefty price tag this close to the 10th. Well you get it. I'll try again next fall, but I think I know what I'll be lobbying for.
@ November 5, 2012 8:53 PM in Combustion analyzerLooking real serious at the UEi C155.
The local wholesaler is offering a $200 trade in on my old bacherach(that is in need of repairs). That brings the price to something I might be able to sell the boss on. I want to hear your opinions guys. I know this same post makes its way on here every month. But I wasn't looking for a new meter till today when they told me how much it would cost to fix mine, and how long it would take.
-Thanks guys, Andrew
@ October 19, 2012 10:47 PM in Peerless pinnicaleI know you guys love to hear the story's end.
So I did find a Munchkin board that would be identical minus some stickers, at 80% of the price of the Peerless part. Heres the kicker, my wholesaler told me there would be no warranty on it. So I did find the peerless board in stock locally and it has a warranty.
Moral; Cover your butt!
@ October 14, 2012 6:30 PM in Peerless pinnicaleThat's the point, I have more options of wholesalers if I'm looking for munchkin parts. I know you can interchange the gas valves, blower, ignitor, flame sensor, ect. But peerless had 4 differant boards, I think. I'm not sure witch would be the same in the munchkin. I think its time to look up some munchkin manuals. I was hoping I would find somebody on here that has done this with the boards.
@ October 13, 2012 11:13 PM in Peerless pinnicaleWent on a no heat/no hot water tonight.
Its a PI-80rev1, It had a f31 error(parameter memory). The rep says replace the board.
I was wondering if anyone knew if any munchkin boards were interchangeable with the rev1 pinnacle? I might have an easier time getting a munchkin board.
@ October 9, 2012 6:45 PM in NTI Ti-150Having trouble with a trinity Ti-150.
When I got there it would ignite and run for 3-12 seconds and dropout.
Ez, bad flame recification. I knew it needed to be cleaned so I tear it down and it was nasty. CLR it, scrub it, CLR it, scrub it..... I get it all back together and grab my anylizer. I fire it up, same problem flame drops out after 3-12 seconds. Check flame current at ignition module 3~4. Pull it, clean it. No change. So I order a new flame sensor. Get back few days later slap in the new flame sensor. And tada, same problem. Check flame signal at module and I'm getting a solid 7. Now I'm getting an error code an 'ER6' (flame lock-out). I am not getting the 3 flashes on the fenwal (module). I'm stuck, what do I test next? I ordered a new module, of corse they dont stock them here in the metro, I mean why would a wholesaler keep repair parts in stock on such an old boiler?(7years) Sorry, I'm getting whiney too.
Ideas anyone? Am I missing anything obvious?
@ October 1, 2012 6:58 AM in Getting butt chewed for this. Sould I?Thanks for the advice guys, even the stuff I didn't want to hear... Gennady.
I'm sure the 'pow wow' will be a blast this morning. Thanks again.
@ September 30, 2012 6:33 PM in Getting butt chewed for this. Sould I?Some of you had asked about flow rates. Well going by some simple, and maybe incorrect, math. I can get 1.4 gpm through 1/2" pex, take away some for head loss, about 1gpm per run, times 10 runs, roughly 10 gpm. Enough flow I say.
But in the IO manual on page 80 it states that with the 15-58 on speed 3, it only has 4.5' of head left after the hx. Sounds like I need the P/S so I can push that water though the pex runs and up to 1st and 2nd floor.
If my my math is sounding like garbage, I would like to know. All I know is what I've learned so far, some of my learning has come from 'lead guy'. I tend to take what I hear with a grain of salt.
@ September 30, 2012 6:04 PM in Getting butt chewed for this. Sould I?Your right Steve, no strainer. It'll get the frenox flush at least.
The remodel includes finishing off some of the basement, hence the mains going by by. If you notice the capped off tees were installed for future zone for basement. That zone would only have 2-3 panels or chunks of fin tube. I don't think if it were piped non-P/S the boiler would get enough flow, if just the basement called. Or would I just be dealing with a monster delta T?
@ September 29, 2012 10:00 PM in Getting butt chewed for this. Sould I?Put in a TT Excellence on friday on a remodel job. We removed the mains and will be home running all 10 cast iron rads. This boiler is replacing the original gravity boiler. I was told at the shop by the lead guy to pipe it using internal circ to save time(boss was not present), we are getting swamped with work right now. I just nodded my head and when I got to the job I piped it P/S. I did it that way because I believe its right and I wasn't going to take a shortcut. It does show piping it with out P/S in the IO manual if you can guaranty proper flow though hx.
I talked to my boss about it and he said it was fine, he just wanted me to avoid a "pissing match" at all cost.
The lead guy stopped by the job at the end of the day and blew a gasket. Luckily I was on a service call at the time. I soon got a phone call from him chewing my kiester up and down about wasting money and time and for doing whatever I want. I admit I don't have alot of respect for the lead guy because I don't like his slapdash work.
I know my boss will not like having to play 'mom' on monday.
What would you do? Am I a total jerk?