Joined on May 5, 2011
Last Post on December 6, 2013
@ December 6, 2013 8:32 AM in Probably a question you are asked alot..Wouldn't it be both a lot cheaper and quicker to install proper main venting, TRVs on all radiators and a steam boiler controller than to rip it all out and install a forced water system?
@ December 4, 2013 8:36 PM in Probably a question you are asked alot..I love the two TRV's I have on my system and its only in a single family home. I can't imagine how big of an improvement they would make on a multi-family building. In my non-professional opinion TRVs along with some sort of boiler control with outdoor reset would be a must. It will keep everyone happy and save a ton of fuel.
@ December 4, 2013 9:09 AM in Skimming Weil-McLain EG-55 Steam BoilerThis is a short video I made of skimming my EG-45.
Basically the way I did it was turn the thermostat up high enough to make sure the burner will stay on, go down and hit the switch on the boiler to turn the burner off and start filling the boiler SLOW. Once its near the skim port fire the boiler back up and pay very close attention. When you hear it is near boiling shut the burner off. Allow it to skim as slow as possible, either at the speed in my video or slower. The slower, the better. I continued to skim until the water felt cool and then fired the burners back up once again shutting it off before boiling. If you start to boil it won't be the end of the world but it will mix things up a bit which leads to longer skimming.
@ December 3, 2013 11:27 PM in Big steam pipes (6") need big wrenches (48")Frank, wasn't your 5 footer also aluminum?
@ December 3, 2013 7:59 PM in Big steam pipes (6") need big wrenches (48")I bought two 4 foot wrenches when I put the boiler in. Only thing was it seems like they are too big for 3 inch stuff so I was kind of gentle with them.
@ December 3, 2013 1:47 PM in Vent Spitting & Water Hammer in CondoIn my opinion spitting is usually caused by condensed steam in the vent spraying out due to the pressure in the radiator or water from condensed steam dripping past the vent and being pulled into it by air rushing out. No vent will close under these conditions.
A Gorton or Maid-O-Mist (I'm a Gorton man my self) may have more volume inside the valve housing allowing less spitting but I wouldn't guarantee it.
Lowing the pressure, which you cannot do would likely stop it.
My opinion right now is your only option is to vent slower, which is what you're doing. The fact the super keeps telling you to bleed the radiator proves he has no clue how to work on a steam system and shouldn't be in charge of it.
@ December 2, 2013 3:47 PM in Thoughts on dense packing plaster walls?Not sure what dense packing is but if its the sprayed in paper stuff I wouldn't do it. Too many complaints about it and the fact it absorbs moisture just seems bad to me.
I don't know about yours, but the walls in my 150 yr old house are only clap board on the outside and I've heard that is a bad combination with the blown in paper stuff. My walls are staying empty until I figure out a better alternative.
@ December 1, 2013 10:59 PM in NEW BOILER IS BANGING! HELP!Can you do another picture from that angle, but up higher of the piping?
I see your water looks purple? Do you know if he used steamaster tablets? I'm a huge fan of them but if you use too much it will do exactly what you're describing and it takes time for the pills to completely dissolve. An easy way to find out, drain all of the water out of the boiler (careful, may be hot!) and refill SLOWLY if the boiler is hot. Then see how she performs. If he did use steamaster there is a good chance he used too much as the instructions on the bottle are wrong.
Also, as others have said your piping is wrong and could potentially crack the block due to the lack of swing joints.
@ December 1, 2013 10:03 PM in NEW BOILER IS BANGING! HELP!Can you give us a picture from a side view? I'm curious to see how the mains are piped into the header.
It looks as if he tried to reuse the old header, only now it has no where to drain. Skimming must be done slow and hot. It takes hours to properly skim a boiler even one time and it usually takes many times.
@ December 1, 2013 9:22 PM in Rezeroing 3psi gauge?I will probably buy a proper 1/4" ball valve for this, but for now I had this laying around from the gauge glass.
To check pressure during a cycle I will close the ball valve going to the gauge from the pigtail and then crack this valve to zero the gauge. Once I close the (air valve) I can then re-open the valve to the system and get an accurate measurement.
At least that is how I think it will work. I don't see any other way unless someone makes a super light vacuum breaker. Even unscrewing the gauge caused it to go more and more negative until the seal finally broke. It is very very sensitive to any pressure change.
The tee for the valve came out a hair crooked but I didn't want it dripping on my switch box if I could avoid it. I'll be honest, I went too far because I was in a hurry but truth is it will avoid it from dripping on the switch box so I left it.
@ December 1, 2013 8:07 PM in Rezeroing 3psi gauge?I installed a tee and the cheesy valve that came on the bottom of my gauge glass in it. This allows me to open the section of piping going to the 3 psi gauge and allow air to enter.
I'm not sure what causes the suction, but I assume its the water cooling and somehow the water in the pigtail ends up slightly higher on the gauge side causing a slight pull. No idea really though other than opening the valve rezeros the gauge.
@ December 1, 2013 6:23 PM in Rezeroing 3psi gauge?From what I've seen with my 3 psi gauge I need to let air back into between the gauge and the siphon to rezero it.
Am I the only one with this problem? Has anyone installed a 1/4" valve open to the atmosphere to allow air in before taking a reading? obviously you would open this valve between cycles to rezero the gauge before producing steam.
@ December 1, 2013 4:44 PM in Vent Spitting & Water Hammer in CondoNo, you don't bleed a steam radiator.
A 15 minute cycle shouldn't heat that radiator, at least not in my opinion. It would take my system over an hour to heat a radiator that size.
However, you did say the room stays cold?
@ December 1, 2013 4:13 PM in Vent Spitting & Water Hammer in CondoDepends,
I have vents on my radiators which are much faster than what you are using. However, pressure plays a huge roll as does how the radiator drains. We can't see where that pipe goes and whether it goes into a 90 deg elbow inside the wall or what the deal is. If that is like that for any length it will cause problems.
How long is a cycle right now where the radiator only heats half way? 15 minutes? 30 minutes?
@ December 1, 2013 4:00 PM in Vent Spitting & Water Hammer in CondoIt will help just to see how the radiator is piped and what the overall situation looks like.
@ December 1, 2013 3:57 PM in Vent Spitting & Water Hammer in CondoHow is the pitch in the radiator? Is it pitched back towards the pipe?
Please post some pictures if possible.
@ December 1, 2013 10:44 AM in Do I need a main vent that opens soon after pressuretrol cuts off burner?Can you take a picture of your pressuretrol and its settings?
@ December 1, 2013 9:47 AM in Slow leak at joint (picture)Looked like a 3/4 x 3/4 x 1/2 tee with a 3/4" street ell into it to me.
@ November 30, 2013 11:22 PM in Do I need a main vent that opens soon after pressuretrol cuts off burner?I have four Gorton 1s on one main and one on the other (much shorter main).
After a good long cycle I also hear my radiator vents (also all Gorton) whistling as a vacuum is created and the vents suck air in. Not a loud whistle, but if your a few feet from a radiator you can just hear it. Mine is a single pipe system with nothing fancy other than it heats my house cheaply and evenly.
Doesn't seem to bother anything on my system and the main vents are wide open long before the next cycle begins.
EDIT : I just read a little more of what the problem is. Your pressuretrol should let the burner relight before the steam pressure drops that far. The pressure should never drop below 0.5PSI or so before relighting and if that isn't soon enough move it a little higher. There is no point in sucking more air in that needs to be pushed back out during a cycle.
@ November 29, 2013 9:05 PM in need help with one pipe steam system,, rookie!That depends.
I bushed mine down from 3" to 2" due to cost and two 2" risers is far more than necessary for this size boiler.
@ November 29, 2013 8:03 PM in need help with one pipe steam system,, rookie!Please make sure he installs the skimmer as this is a must. Without it you will not be able to skim the oils out of the boiler. You can see this in my pictures if you look its a large pipe and valve sticking out of the side of the boiler with nothing hooked to it.
You are also missing the hartford loop and equalizer. I would also recommend running the feed water into the return line by the hartford loop instead of directly into the boiler. The reason for this is it makes it less likely to crack the block if someone feeds water too fast.
I'm not sure about the flue, but what Paul is saying is the new piece should fit into the old elbow, not over it.
@ November 29, 2013 7:57 PM in need help with one pipe steam system,, rookie!Thank you for the compliments.
However I'm an electronic technician not an HVAC pro. :)
I recently picked a broken monitor top refrigerator up out of Brooklyn but its a good hour+ drive for me.
Your boiler is almost identical to mine other than being a little smaller. If you have your guy pipe yours the same it would work beautifully. However It will end costing quite a bit more in materials though so don't be surprised.