Joined on May 5, 2011
Last Post on March 7, 2014
@ March 7, 2014 11:09 PM in For all you steam heads out thereSo,
Who is going to be the first to leave a comment on the video?
@ March 7, 2014 8:51 AM in Beating a dead horse.It's interesting you recommended a Burnham brand boiler. Why not a high efficiency cast iron Weil Mclain?
See, thing is, my system is steam and companies like Burnham refuse to update their steam boilers so I'm stuck with 82% for NG or 86% for oil.
As a homeowner, if my installer told me he could not convert my Burnham from oil to gas and they are the only manufacturer that doesn't allow it I would tell him fine, install a new boiler but I don't want a Burnham. Especially when a Burnham NG steam boiler is rated 82% AFUE and a Megasteam is 86% AFUE. Great, buy a new boiler with a lower rating.
@ March 6, 2014 7:22 PM in Atmospheric boilersSomething I've wondered about is the cost difference between a wet based boiler + power burner vs an atmospheric as well as the electric usage of the power burner.
Would you ever even make the money you spent on the install back.
What additional servicing if any does a power burner require over an atmospheric?
@ March 6, 2014 3:35 PM in Beating a dead horse.Harper111,
I believe the boilers guys have in mind in this thread are 85% or greater many of which are not very old. In fact, many are brand new and have never been fired on oil.
@ March 6, 2014 12:47 PM in System pipingHave you made a decision on what size to go with and what did you decide on the pickup factor?
@ March 6, 2014 5:47 AM in HELP with new steam boilerHi Joe,
That is a very good question and I asked the same thing recently. Have a look at this thread and see what you think.
Right now my opinion is add 10-15% and no more above the radiation you have. Please keep in mind I'm a homeowner, not a pro.
@ March 5, 2014 4:09 PM in Fuel use question?Ah! apparently as others have told me in the past the HDD reported by the gas company may be way off.
Using a local weather station from weatherunderground I came up with a number of 12.45 for one month and 14.7 for another.
I feel a little better now.
I really like this thread, I've learned an easy way to compare changes and improvements to my home.
@ March 5, 2014 2:58 PM in Fuel use question?If the OP is in the 88% group, what am I in? The leaky sieve group? :)
@ March 5, 2014 12:50 PM in Why not a cut in of zero?My opinion is you want the system to maintain enough pressure to keep the furthest radiators from sucking air back in. If the pressure drops too much, including the time it takes the burner to relight and get things cooking again then radiators far away will suck air in and you'll have to push it back out.
I would say it all has to do with your specific system. For example on mine as long as it didn't drop below 1 ounce I would be golden.
@ March 4, 2014 1:06 PM in copper in 2 pipe steamI'm in the same boat as you Pumpguy. However, my understanding is you will have a reaction between the copper and steel/iron but only very close together. Meaning if you have a copper pipe screwed into an iron fitting and it is full of liquid there will be a reaction, but only in that fitting ie it won't travel through all of the piping. So if you have a steel nipple screwed into the boiler with a cast iron or steel elbow or a tee screwed onto it and then a copper pipe screwed into that fitting, only the fitting will be attacked, not the boiler and how fast all depends on many things. I believe a low PH speeds things up greatly.
As I said, this is only my understanding after asking many people and doing what reading I could on it. I really don't know for sure. In my opinion the main problem with copper carrying steam is expansion. They do not hold much liquid there should not be much of a reaction if any.
One thing is for sure, no matter what my opinion or anyone else's opinion is piping steam boilers and steam piping in iron and steel is always a safe bet. I have some copper between 3 radiators and the runouts which I plan on removing just because of expansion noises.
@ March 4, 2014 10:52 AM in Chimney LinerJust a warning I'm only a homeowner.
I'm going to have to agree with icesailor on this one. A few years back I had a lot of chimney problems and my understanding is the following.
A liner is installed for a few reasons. One is to protect the chimney from condensation, another is to keep flue gasses from leaking into the home and yet another is to keep the gasses warm and to improve draft.
I believe a 6 inch liner is a common size and shouldn't cause a problem, however on smaller appliances a smaller liner could improve draft and reduce condensation as could using an insulated liner. Length of the liner is just as important as the diameter as well as how many appliances are being vented into it. When you vent multiple appliances the size has to be increased. The manufacturer of the liner should have a chart showing what size appliances should be connected to it for whatever given length and for multiple appliances they will have another chart.
In the end you should always go by what the manufacturer of the liner recommends and they always go by input btus as icesailor said.
Like I said, I'm only a homeowner but this is my understanding. Personally, if you have adequate draft at the appliance with the 6 inch and it is installed properly I would leave it alone.
@ March 3, 2014 11:45 AM in So many problems...would be grateful for any helpPictures will help a lot.
Can you take pictures of the boiler and the piping around it? Also, take a picture of at least one of the TRVs.
What vent is being used on the TRVs? If you vent too fast it will cause the room to overheat as will running too much pressure. If the vent clogs with water it can cause the radiator to heat even if the TRV is closed.
Pictures will help a lot.
@ March 3, 2014 10:09 AM in What's wrong with this?This can't be real, can it? It's gotta be a joke.
@ March 1, 2014 8:56 PM in Beating a dead horse.There is a good chance that if Burnham did allow conversion burners that I would have a Megasteam in my basement instead of a WM EG-45. That would've been enough to change my mind.
@ March 1, 2014 8:21 AM in Pickup factor. Help me understandThank you for posting that Gerry!
Right now, my thoughts are, at least on a system like mine the piping and pickup factor should be kept as small as possible.
Reasons are the radiation is already 30% oversized for the house. That alone should be plenty to bring the temperature up during a recovery without oversizing the boiler ontop of it.
Maybe it will cause run times to be longer, but something tells me the run time on a modcon sized to design temp won't exactly be impressive either.
@ February 28, 2014 10:23 PM in Pickup factor. Help me understandI get it now.
Thank you all for responding!
@ February 28, 2014 5:25 PM in Pickup factor. Help me understandThat is the part I do not understand.
When my system fires up, the pipes are heated first, not at the same time as the radiators.
My mains are heated literally with every ounce of steam the boiler can produce. Once they are heated the steam goes to the runouts and then the radiators. By the time the radiators get any steam all of the piping is already heated minus the loss through the insulation. I can hear this taking place as my Gorton's breath at the beginning of each cycle. Once the radiators start getting steam all vents become completely silent because the radiators condense steam far faster than the piping ever could.
Maybe I'm just not getting it. I didn't understand the friction losses in piping which result in a pressure drop for a while either but I got it eventually.
@ February 28, 2014 4:16 PM in Pickup factor. Help me understandI'm a bit confused by the use of a 33% pickup factor.
The way I see it, with your piping insulated as it should be the piping should dissipate a fairly small amount of heat. Now in my system my pickup factor is something like 31,000 btus. Once the piping is hot I could see it dissipating maybe 5000btus through the insulation, but 31,000?
So my question is, why do we need a 33% pickup factor if all of your piping is insulated? Wouldn't something like 5% do just fine?
Is the 33% there to makeup for missing insulation and poor venting? Is it simply a fudge factor and not actually necessary if everything is perfect?
@ February 28, 2014 6:54 AM in changing a garber filterIt won't solve the problem at hand but I saw someone mentioned installing a vacuum gauge. I did this about a month or so before switching to NG.
While I'm sure there are other options this vac guage came from Garber
@ February 27, 2014 8:16 PM in Low pressure steam, but long burner cycleSounds like there is no problem?
@ February 26, 2014 4:22 PM in How many of you carryThis is something that I wondered about when I first saw the Nest smoke / CO detector that they always show mounted on a ceiling.