Joined on May 5, 2011
Last Post on July 22, 2014
@ June 18, 2014 3:49 PM in Hot RadiatorsI use Dow Corning 340 on everything, including my CPUs and I do a lot of overclocking and gaming. We buy tubes of it I think for $30 or so ea.
Don't get caught up in PC "high end thermal grease" B.S. I've tried artic silver and didn't see a difference.
@ June 17, 2014 8:35 PM in Main VentTo NJ and I'll buy a 12lb sledge just for the event. That fitting is going down!
@ June 17, 2014 8:26 PM in Main VentI was able to remove the nipples from the elbows on my two mains.
But I'm told you cover it with a good heavy rag and then give it a few good whacks with a lump hammer and you're in business.
@ June 17, 2014 8:24 PM in Main VentThank you!
And now I wish I could forget how much these cost again. I remember being amazed at the time how much it cost to pipe my boiler using parts from an online store.
@ June 17, 2014 8:06 PM in Main VentReally? They must have changed their search engine because it used to be fittings > cast iron.
As far as why use cast iron I believe it's because you always have a way out by shattering it if need be.
I used all cast iron on my install because that's what the pros said to do.
@ June 17, 2014 7:42 PM in Main VentFrom what I see on Ward's site the only cast iron unions are flange type, I guess that isn't a surprise.
I'm also surprised to see pexsupply aka supplerhouse no longer stocks cast iron ward fittings. :That's where all of my cast iron fittings came from.
Now where will I go.
@ June 17, 2014 7:06 PM in Main VentDon't think he was.
The fitting I drilled was from the 1920s and all of my newer fittings are Ward cast iron fittings.
I don't think these are considered "malleable" are they?
@ June 17, 2014 6:58 PM in Oh look what I found in my closetI'm back in. :)
No need to apologize, I enjoy a good joke now and then, as long as it's not aimed at the steam system.
On a serious note, any votes on a thread sealer? Megaloc + blue monster tape, blue monster tape alone, or RTV?
The bottom fitting is original steel and the radiator valve I'm not concerned about really, I'm sure it'll seal nice with tape alone.
@ June 17, 2014 6:56 PM in Main VentDoes this include 80 year old pitted and rusty fittings though?
On brass connections I would tend to agree.
@ June 17, 2014 6:55 PM in Main VentNow I don't know what to think.
A machinist told me cast iron is very soft and drills and taps super easy. He also said it always crumbles, it's just the way it drills.
The last time I drilled into an ell it was extremely easy without oil.
@ June 17, 2014 5:45 PM in Main VentIf drilling a cast iron fitting like an elbow or a tee I wouldn't use any.
Now that doesn't make it right, just when I drilled my last ell I didn't use any oil. I'd rather burn up a bit and damage a tap than have to deal with oil in my boiler again.
I'm replacing a fairly long length of pipe soon and need to figure out what sealer I'm using on the threads. Because it's going into an 80 year old ell I'd kind of like to use blue monster tape and megaloc, but can't stand thinking about oil in the dope ending up in the boiler. I plan on scrubbing the pipe with dish soap and hot water in the back yard before threading it in.
I'm tempted to use RTV.
@ June 17, 2014 8:21 AM in Venting the mainsGeneral rule if I recall is all of the radiators combined should equal less than your main venting.
@ June 17, 2014 8:12 AM in Venting the mainsWhat about when it's a hot main? Most of the time when my boiler fires up the piping is already fairly hot.
The object is to make the main less resistive than the radiators. If you vent the main on the slower side you must vent the radiators on the slower side.
If you want to vent the radiators very fast you must make sure the mains are faster. For example I have some Gorton Cs on fairly small 11 section radiators. If I didn't vent my mains really fast those radiators would get heat before others on the system.
That's basically what it comes down to.
The dry return is a piece of pipe, venting it is the same as venting the main although I suspect there is a little more resistance there. I've considered moving my main vents to the end of one of my dry returns to get them out of the crawl space and into the basement. If the dry return is not insulated, I wouldn't do it.
@ June 16, 2014 9:03 PM in Venting the mainsI will admit I'm known for doing everything excessive. I can't deny that.
But, I have a feeling running at 1 ounce is cheaper than at 3 ounces and I can say for a fact that it is quieter. I put a lot of work into my system and constantly tweak things to make it faster, quieter, more comfortable and cheaper to run.
@ June 16, 2014 8:24 PM in Venting the mainsMy system is currently setup to shut down at 4 ounces and wait for 10 minutes. I'd never want to see 3 ounces before I even get heat. In fact, my 3 PSI gauge doesn't even move during normal operation. I'd like to swap it out for a much more sensitive gauge, it just has not happened yet.
Holding back the steam is never a good thing, especially when dealing with the mains.
@ June 16, 2014 12:32 PM in Volts x Amps x Power Factor = what?I'm a bit confused by this thread.
The reason VA is different from watts is because some loads, such as an inductive motor will cause the current draw to be out of phase with the voltage.
In most places, you pay for wattage not VA so a poor power factor won't cost you a dime, you're still paying for real power, not apparent power.
When sizing a breaker, fuse or conductor I would think you go by current consumption alone, not volt-amps or watts?
I'm posting because I want to make sure my understanding is correct. If it is not, please let me know.
@ June 16, 2014 11:31 AM in Venting the mainsNBC, can we see a picture of that setup?
I was proud of my five #1s. Now not so much. :)
@ June 15, 2014 10:59 AM in Hoffman Boiler Feed, persistent trickle feed and overflowCan you post some pictures?
It will likely help greatly. In my experience as little as it is, a 24" wrench isn't very big when dealing with 2" pipe.
@ June 15, 2014 10:56 AM in Union installation on 2.5"Do you think my turbotorch with the largest tip they make can braze 1 1/4" or 2" steel pipe?
@ June 14, 2014 10:12 PM in question about PVC concentric ventingPlease be advised I'm not a pro, and honestly didn't even know what a concentric was until just now.
But the wording is very clear. Like you said,
*Use only Rheem 3 inch concentric termination kit (SP20245). The use of any other kit is not approved.
That means, you cannot use any other kit besides that one. Even if the 2" would work I wouldn't do it because it could end up biting you later some way some how. As far as the water heaters outlet only being 2", the reason you go to 3" is to make up for the restrictions caused by elbows and piping length so the water heater's outlet size doesn't really matter.
Is there any reason you want to use a concentric instead of the standard two pipe setup? I only ask because that seems like you could do it no problem at all using 2" and the holes would be even smaller, just twice.
@ June 14, 2014 8:33 PM in Union installation on 2.5"So far I've only braze copper and I used I think 15% silphos rod, no flux.
What I liked about brazing more than soft solder is there was absolutely no fear of burning the flux, at least when using silphos rod on copper to copper joints, which as many know ruins the joint before you even touch solder to it. Just heat the pipe up until it's orange and solder. To me, brazing is just like soft soldering except at higher temperatures. If you can sweat pipe you'll be able to braze near perfectly with very little practice.
I wonder if my turbotorch is capable of brazing 1 1/4 or 2" steel? I'm assuming not even close even with the largest tip.
@ June 14, 2014 3:00 PM in Really old gas valve?Thanks for responding Gordo.
Definitely not for gas lights then, probably just for a stove.