Security Seal Facebook Twitter GooglePlus Pinterest Newsletter Sign-up
The Wall


Joined on May 5, 2011

Last Post on September 16, 2014

Contact User

Recent Posts

« 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 ... 96 »


@ July 31, 2014 10:11 PM in Brazing without nitrogen?!

Like I said, I'm only an amateur and do this as a hobby, but in my eyes if I'm willing to spend time and money to do it right, shouldn't a professional?

I will admit, my wife was anything but happy when I started dumping money into the equipment to do this but it takes what it takes.


@ July 30, 2014 12:01 PM in Brazing without nitrogen?!

Are you sure it's minor?


@ July 29, 2014 3:53 PM in Brazing without nitrogen?!

I think it costs me $20 or $25 to have my 60cuft bottle filled. Seems fairly cheap to me.


@ July 29, 2014 2:34 PM in Brazing without nitrogen?!


Thanks for responding. This is the kind of feedback I'm interested in hearing because I only do this for a hobby so I don't know what goes on in the real world.

Brazing without nitrogen?!

@ July 29, 2014 2:11 PM in Brazing without nitrogen?!

My boss had a split system installed yesterday and I noticed the guy was doing all of his brazing without flowing nitrogen. I asked him where his nitrogen was and he told me that is only used for pressure testing and is never used during brazing.

I'm a bit disgusted at this and am wondering how common of a practice this is?

Drilling and tapping

@ July 22, 2014 9:25 AM in Use two-pipe radiator in one-pipe system?

You'll need a 1/8" NPT pipe tap and a size Q drill bit to drill and tap for the vent.
Whatever you do, do not use an 1/8" machine thread tap, it won't work.

The cast iron seems to drill and tap surprisingly easy but go slow and take your time.

Big enough?

@ July 20, 2014 11:08 AM in Do I need a chimney liner?

If I recall, you must go by the manufacturer of the liner's input btu rating and cannot just go by size.  Not saying that most liners aren't likely the same, it's just what I remember going through with my chimney nitemare.  I do recall being told a lined chimney, especially one with a round liner will flow better than an unlined one so if the current setup produces good draft it should work even better lined.

My point being, if the chimney guys say it can be lined and are willing to do the work I'd go with whatever they recommend.  Without a doubt it should be lined and there is a chance it's too small for the connected appliances, mine sure was but my basement also stunk like a diesel bus when we bought the house.
We ended up having the 150 yr old chimney torn down and replaced with a 6" B vent before I installed the new gas boiler.  The chimney only had a 4" x 7" opening.

 I don't miss that brick disaster one bit.
We don't discuss pricing here, but the original price I had to line the chimney was about the same as your quoted price, sounds perfectly fair to me.  The price to tear the brick chimney down and install a B-vent was around double but was well worth it in my situation.


@ July 20, 2014 10:53 AM in Silicone steam pipe through floor?

Itchy, nasty stuff. 
Fiberglass isn't much better.  I hated every second of insulating my piping, but I did it because I had to.

Rock whool?

@ July 19, 2014 4:24 PM in Silicone steam pipe through floor?

Is rockwhool what is commonly called rotten cotton?  If so, no way.

I hate that stuff, we stuffed it around my B-vent's firestops after it was installed to make sure it was all sealed good.

temp rating

@ July 19, 2014 2:27 PM in Silicone steam pipe through floor?

RTV-108, a clear RTV we use at work has a continuous operating temp of 400F.
Gordo, I'm not talking about caulk for around tubs and sinks, maybe I should've said RTV instead of silicone. 

Silicone steam pipe through floor?

@ July 19, 2014 12:21 PM in Silicone steam pipe through floor?

I have quite a few radiator's who's pipes come up from a crawl space.  I've been pondering for a few years if there is anyway I could seal the gap around the pipe.

Has anyone ever used 100% clear silicone for this?  I don't see why it would have a problem, certainly not from the heat and I doubt the short amount of pipe connected between the floor and radiator expands much.

I welcome any and all thoughts as always.


@ July 12, 2014 4:10 PM in Identifying boiler capacity

If it was my system, especially with all of those TRVs I would aim for an EG-40.

However, you have another alternative assuming the block is in good shape.  Have a 2 stage gas valve installed and do a low / high fire setup.  Chances are it would work beautifully on low fire and the high fire would get you steam faster.
I know very little about it other than Joe from Thatcher Heating and Cooling, known as Jstar on here has done it for a few customers.

25K per tube

@ July 12, 2014 1:32 PM in Identifying boiler capacity

Going from memory I believe those burner tubes are 25K each so that makes your boiler 200K btu input.
That's assuming I counted right and that there are 8 tubes.

Personally, I'm against using a 33% pickup factor and recommend either doing none, or going with no more than 10 or 15% assuming all of your piping is insulated well and you calculated your EDR correctly.  If your radiation is oversized for your home which most are I would lean more towards little or no pickup factor.

That said, how does the current piping perform?  Any problems with joints breaking?


@ July 11, 2014 8:50 PM in Jury Rules That CSST is a Defective Product

How does a CSST thread turn into a gun discussion?  There are plenty of threads on the net about guns and 2nd amendment rights and arguments.  Do we really need it here too? 

I ran all black iron pipe in my home for gas and am very glad I did.  Curious though, I bonded the gas piping to the electrical panel when I did the water piping.   Should I leave it grounded or disconnect it?
I have no CSST, but do have flexible appliance connectors going to the stove and cloths dryer.  The gas meter is outside, but is connected to the street via yellow plastic tubing the gas company ran for me in 2011 as a new install.


@ July 1, 2014 5:48 PM in Moving a radiator to put floor down

Hi Jamie,

Thanks for responding.
How do I get the radiator onto the dolly though?  That's going to be the hard part as well as taking it back off.
The floor should raise the radiator around 10mm.  These two radiator's runouts luckily run between joists rather than across so I should have plenty of movement.  If not, I'll be cutting, hammering, maybe swearing and removing the verticle pipes and getting slightly longer ones threaded so not too big of a deal.

On my runouts that run across joists typically they are either almost touching, or are touching the last joist so that would've meant extending them for sure.

Moving a radiator to put floor down

@ July 1, 2014 5:15 PM in Moving a radiator to put floor down

I'm looking for some ideas on how to move two of my radiators so I can put a floating floor down.  I don't need to move them far, but do need a way to get them up onto the new section of floor once it's done without destroying it.

I've included two of the best pictures I have on hand, though they are a few years old.
No idea what these weight but something tells me they aren't light, one is 55sqft and the other 60sqft if memory serves..  Perhaps around 500lbs each?  Would a hand truck work?


@ June 30, 2014 6:50 PM in Two pipe: concerned about one radiator

Does it hammer or bang now, or have you not had a chance to actually observe it in use?

If it heats good and doesn't bang I'd leave it alone.


@ June 29, 2014 11:56 PM in recent job

That's exactly what I did with mine.


@ June 29, 2014 11:44 PM in recent job

I'd be willing to bet you can shrink that 15" as you oversize the header.

If they spec that for a 2" header I'm sure it's not near as important with a 3" or 4" header.  Also if they are asking for a single riser out of the boiler, using two would make it less important as well as you will be pulling less water out.  A drop header likely will also make it less important.

Is there a reason you can't shift the boiler over to gain that 15"?

The rules for piping a boiler can be modified.  The basic idea is you want the water to stay in the boiler and any water that does end up in the header shouldn't make its way into the mains.   That 15" is likely to allow water to settle into the bottom of the header before steam gets pulled up into the main(s).  An oversized drop header should have far less problems with this than a standard header.

J.A., beautiful piping!


@ June 29, 2014 11:48 AM in need electrical help

Wow, this thread has gone way off track eh?
Some feel 120V rated controls are better than 24V ones?.  This is a very bad assumption to make in my opinion.
I don't see why this would be the case and am curious to see some statistics on 24V controls working @ their rated voltage vs 120V ones also  working @ their rated voltage under the same conditions.
I see no reason the 120V ones would be better when working under their intended conditions.  If anything I would expect heavier contacts on the 24V switches / relays rather than "cheaper". 

Does anyone publish MTBF on safety controls for boilers?


@ June 24, 2014 9:44 PM in Replacing shower diverter spout

Ok so I looked, no slot or hole in the bottom and I could not turn it by hand. 
Decided to try some stem grease, or whatever this waterproof valve grease is called and was able to get it working really nice.  Seems like the main part that was binding was the stem of the handle where it passes through the top of the spout.
I just don't know how long it'll last.  Maybe it'll last for years.

If I end up having to remove this, what is the safest way as far as my 1/2" copper pipe coming out of the tiled wall? 


@ June 24, 2014 5:21 PM in The history of the toilet

Isn't unsafe water one of the reasons drinking alcohol became so popular?
« 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 ... 96 »