Joined on May 27, 2011
Last Post on August 28, 2014
@ April 27, 2014 1:00 AM in Radiant under 3/4 ply & cement board/tilePlates must be sealed at edges , I use inexpensive adhesive tape for this when SPF is to be used . The first and second layers applied should only be 1 inch lifts , the tubing can handle that easily .
@ April 27, 2014 12:54 AM in Mark vs MartinRe up my GBA membership tomorrow . Think it may have lapsed , I will hold off questioning INTGRITY until they have taken my money and still deny access . Wonder if that's all it is . Would hate to make public their actions on many groups sites and in associations . We did try , we did good too , hell we got thrown off , that's always a sign you made an impact
@ April 27, 2014 12:16 AM in Mark vs Martinfor myself also Harvey . Interesting how a well respected man such as Martin Holliday writes about a subject that he probably shouldn't and when called out , provided with facts and challenged to discuss so Green Building Advisor readers can make an informed decision or research more for themselves access to those involved in exposing that he did not perform his due diligence is denied so he no longer has to endure being wrong .
Could someone else please check if mine , Harveys , Marks and Robert Beans comments are still visible .
@ April 25, 2014 8:04 AM in Radiant under 3/4 ply & cement board/tilewill work but there are other products methods that are in the same price range that will be more efficient . Have you had a proper hat loss performed or done one yourself ? This is a must . What type of equipment do you have or wish to use ?
@ April 23, 2014 2:21 PM in What's your opinion on this design...an HX at all on the radiant ? It is clearly marked HePex so no HX . Most economical scenario for the low temp portion would be Taco 3/4 I Series mixing valve w/ ODR and the correct circ for that manifold . Done and done . Way easier than either of the methods described . Give the Indirect it's own pump too you just saved 600.00 . The circ handling the high temp zones will more than likely be way oversized for the 2 zones of baseboard if you size it for the indirect also and it vry well may sound like a freight train running through the bb , not real pleasant .
@ April 23, 2014 2:11 PM in No heat in baseboardsyou use the same model circulator that was there ? Do you have a few pictures of the boiler and connected piping , thy would help ?
@ April 18, 2014 8:18 PM in Can license and hours transfer to MA?Jeremy , I thought you would be out there already .
@ April 16, 2014 6:56 AM in Modifications to Hydronic Systemthe number given by the manufacturer is indeed how many GPM will flowing through while imparting a 1 PSI pressure drop . You are understanding this correctly .
A valve with a rated Cv of 8 will drop pressure in the system by 1 PSI , the other part of this equation is that it will increase the mechanical energy that must be added by the circ (feet of head) by 2.31' . I will try to free up some time to draw a sketch of what I propose , my schedule is kinda hectic however .
@ April 15, 2014 8:27 AM in Buderus GB142/30 no heat as outdoor temps riseIs the WWSD temp on the module set properly ?
@ April 15, 2014 7:59 AM in Modifications to Hydronic SystemWhat type of boiler does this system utilize ? I cannot determine what in fact is in slab heat from your drawing , others will probably have the same problem . Are the towel bars in fact the radiators that you speak of and the lower 2 manifolds your radiant in slab ?
A dedicated circ for hot water is always a good idea , priority for that is also .
Mixing valves should be as small as possible while not adding too much pressure (head) to system , the less water they have to monitor and mix allows them to be more responsive and efficient . This may be something your installer knows of but does not have a complete understanding of .
Bypasses should be at the radiators so when the TRV is closed your fluid can continue to circulate and avoid circs pumping against closed valves .
What make / model IDWH do you have and what are the flow requirements of the other zones ?
No closely spaced tees , use a hydraulic separator , CSTs will further confuse your installer , proper seperators eliminate that understanding issue , they are better also .
Add bypass fittings at your TRV controlled stuff and add a master thermostat set 2 degrees above where your comfort level is in one of those areas with radiators , this will control the circ and it will run as constant circulation . I prefer Taco Bumble Bees for this as long as the system piping and installed radiators fall within the curve . The Bumble bee also is able to run in constant pressure , set point and Delta T modes . Pressure differential bypass valves are band aids for poorly designed systems !
Size the circulator for your indirect for the capabilities and requirements of that HX . Install a circulator relay ( 4 zone ) with domestic priority and let it do it's thing .
Taco I series mixing valves in Outdoor reset or setpoint , whichever you prefer , they have a generous Cv so it should be easy to choose .
Delta T circs on your in floor to optimize performance of each panel
@ April 15, 2014 7:23 AM in Hot Water Tanks and Sizesa buderus sst150 is a 40 gallon tank that will provide 181 gph continuous . I completely agree with your water temp opinion . I just completed a house utilizing a Taco 5000 series mixer at the heater because we are storing at 160* because of demand in the home . The inspector would like me to turn the temp for whole house up to 130* and add a second device at the soaking tub to get that 120* or below . All the faucets are 8" 2 handle faucets with the exception of single lever tub / shower valves . Refuse to perform this work and will see him at a construction board of appeals , will these guys ever follow the spirit of the code ?
@ April 12, 2014 5:22 PM in who is this Mr Pex guyis quality tubing and is probably the most flexible of all the brands . It is Pex-a and can be used with lots of fitting systems . It is also a fact that it is an offshoot company of Uponor , just look at where it is manufactured in relation to Apple Valley . Don't be scared to do it right either , you too will come to terms with getting less jobs than others then you can charge a premium to fix them if it is even possible , at least you can say that your stuff is the best and sleep at night .
@ April 10, 2014 12:13 AM in Mid range boilersBiasi and Pensotti make similar oil units . What models are you being told about
@ April 8, 2014 5:29 PM in Mixing valve location (before/after pump)is that it won't work , the circulator should be inside the mixed loop pulling through the valve . The fluid temp should be whatever is required at that time . Use an Outdoor reset type valve like a Taco I Series . Figure the required temp at design and on an average day then do the math to determine a reset ratio that will keep the floor productive whenever it is needed . Don't wait for your coldest day for your hottest fluid either .
@ April 8, 2014 5:20 PM in Mid range boilersis fine but for anyone to give you an answer of any value could you tell us what type of system you have or are installing ? Then there is the biggest question , how'd you come to the 80 - 100 K conclusion ? That is quite a large gap if a heat loss was performed .
@ April 4, 2014 1:11 PM in Bad hydronic panel install...appeared to be a bit close to me also . I have been assured that the panel is indeed fully to the front half of the room and the exhaust does in fact have a 15" clearance to the edge of the panel . The appliance is not a water heater as someone stated , it is in fact an HTP Pioneer boiler that has 55 gallons of mass . The galvanized is killing me too . Other than that which the homeowner has told me he will be changing in the spring it is rather nice work and quite possibly better than a majority of what we repair , rip out on a daily basis that was completed by so called heating men . Can we agree on that ?
Point also being made was that the system referred to by the OP can be made proper for little monies spent .
@ April 4, 2014 7:15 AM in Bad hydronic panel install...Guys , all homeowners do not do bad work . I believe it is all in the instruction they receive . I design systems for homeowners and have the right material shipped to them , I also am mostly able to determine whether or not they are capable of performing their own install . These homeowners usually perform better installations than many self proclaimed heating guys . It really is a sad state of affairs , many of us that assist folks here on the site are the exception not the rule , as we have found out over and over again . Websites do not make for competent installers , designers or anything , pictures are kinda deceiving , I have seen pics of my work on others sites , pretty funny huh ? The attached image is of a job that a homeowner installed and is similar to the job mentioned above , 17 Buderus Panel rads with TRVs and 3 rooms of radiant . I wish plumbers would do work like this , In case you wonder I did not spec galvanized .
The Uponor EP manifolds are cost effective and work fine , of course watch what type of HTF you add if any at all .
@ April 3, 2014 7:38 PM in Taco I Series Mixing Valve not working?Sensor wire connections must be over supply when you put the head on the valve also . Check this or your valve will work bass ackwards .
@ March 15, 2014 9:13 AM in Mod/Con Heat Exchanger DesignsYou forgot one , in my opinion the best. Cannot make it short cycle even with the smallest size being what we would all consider oversized . I have used this so many times on all kinds of systems and had stellar results .
@ March 13, 2014 9:27 PM in Scott's radiant heating projectwill make any temp water you want , they do not mention temp too much . The lower the temps the more it condenses , the more efficient it is , Pretty simple .
Now panel rads on the other hand give more BTUs with higher water temps , What to do ? Buying the larger rads to deliver the BTUs you need at a lower temp is the ticket . The price difference on these rads is not that great as the amount of money you will waste buying a Mod Con that doesn't Con . Depending on the rads you use sizing can get challenging and very cerebral . I use Buderus for the most part , easy sizing , no confusion , 2 sizes (depth) . Most of the time because of size limitations by customers , interior designers and the like I end up sizing for 158* with an 18 degree Delta T for design days and utilizing outdoor reset so that the boiler will condense for 80-90% of the heating season
Only my opinion , I am sure others will differ , but not by much