Joined on May 27, 2011
Last Post on March 7, 2014
@ October 10, 2013 6:48 AM in code man says my DHW tank has to go as a heat source What now?with us WHY the Code official states that it must go . There is a possibility that with some documentation and design on paper by a qualified person it may not have to . Codes and documentation in Canada are very technical .
@ October 8, 2013 5:37 PM in forced air to hot wateris not the way to go . Please tell me the exact situation you are looking at and how you intend to install the Ultra Fin and maybe we can tell you about better alternatives .
@ October 7, 2013 9:55 PM in forced air to hot waterDo not use it , you will be making a HUGE mistake . Suspended tube systems are for interior areas that need very little heat ,SOMETIMES. The idea of Buderus Panel rads with TRVs is a good one , why not use them everywhere ? Only the areas that require heat will get it , you will be extensively zoned without wires , and you will save a ton of fuel money . I would run them all as homeruns from a central manifold and use a variable speed ECM circ capable of handling the volume and pressure required if they are all calling at once , unlikely . As far as boilers go , there are many good ones out there . If you want to use a condensing boiler you will have to upsize the Panel rads a bit to insure the High efficiency boiler is getting low enough return water temps for you to receive the rated efficiencies for a good portion of time every year . I would be inclined if budget is a constraint to go with an 85% boiler , a 3 way Taco I series mixing valve with outdoor reset and boiler protection and sit back and enjoy the comfort and savings . Just my .02 .
@ October 2, 2013 7:19 AM in Converting from Oil to HE Gas - WM unit recommendationSwei's advice and have the heat loss done . These contractors may have been referred by friends but that does not make them the guy to use . Since none did a heat loss that has been confirmed .
Of the units mentioned I could only recommend the WM97 . Don't much care for either of the others . Being as you only have one zone you really want to make sure you get the smallest boiler capable of heating your load at design conditions and also one that will modulate down really low . Again , Swei's recommendation is good
@ September 29, 2013 4:29 PM in High flow shower headsthe temp in the water heater and use a tempering valve like the Taco 5000 . You should be able to produce damn close to your requirements then . considering that much of the water needed in this way is cold . With the right temp in the tank you should get away with .45 gallons mixing with .55 of cold to get you to 120* . You could just pull it off without spending a lot of scratch . By the way , there are only water heaters , not hot water heaters . Very common engineer , architect mistake .
@ September 29, 2013 2:10 PM in First high efficiency boiler on my own...short cycling! Help!Thank you for your help in the past on many discussions about the Delta T - P debate . As always I am a firm believer in Delta T pumps , ECM or other (vdt) . This is from my previous comment here ". Besides that you may want to manage the Delta T of the secondary loop with a variable speed pump so it slows the water down through that loop and returns water a bit cooler to the boiler . If baseboard use a 20* Delta t and if radiators you may want to go between 30 and 40* " . This is always a good idea . I do believe this system is gonna require a bit more help also however .
@ September 28, 2013 11:53 PM in Taco wiring questiondidn't you purchase a ZVC 404-4 ? You could have spliced into the wires from both T Stats and run them to their own terminal to open that zone valve when either called for heat . I would change the Relay to the 404-4 . Easiest cheapest way and it will still be clean . If this worked for years it should still work . Hope this helped .
@ September 26, 2013 4:30 PM in Need more heat - options?Is probably the best high output baseboard you will find , 3 or 4 different piping options and very high output since you will be using hotter water to make the existing stuff perform . The panel rad option is a very good one and they really are not that damn expensive . Haydon and Slant Fin also make real high output baseboard but you are not gonna find it on the shelf at your local supplier usually . I personally do not like the GV90+ , there are better options . You should also have whomever is gonna do the work utilize Delta T pumps for your system as they will allow the installed radiation to utilize more of the heat before putting too hot water back to your boiler . f you use the Smiths baseboard and it is piped with 2 parallel supplies you may be able to just replace the existing baseboard and not do too much work .
@ September 25, 2013 8:16 AM in First high efficiency boiler on my own...short cycling! Help!Never size your boiler to the radiation installed , NEVER . Square feet within the building is not accurate either . All buildings are different and depending on construction , insulation , windows can vary drastically . Find an online heat loss calculator and perform a room by room heat loss . Never listen to a supply house guy that makes his living by what he sells you determine your equipment sizing , there is just a conflict of interest there . The first guy that plumbed this house could have been using a rule of thumb like the famous old one that states " North of the Mass pike you use 35 BTU per ft and South of the pike you use 25 . Sounds pretty stupid huh . If you have inherited a home that this guy sized the radiation for you will be lucky because you should be able to lower the SWTs quite a bit and get some of the rated efficiency of that boiler out of it . Operating as it is you are quite probably getting no more % than a quality mid efficiency cast iron boiler . The lower the water returning to it the better .
Definitely do the heat loss , measure square foot of each room , exterior walls , R value (insulation) window sizes and types , doors (same) , and enter the numbers . You may well find out that you only need to provide 15 - 20 BTU per square foot which will let you dial that boiler down drastically . Besides that you may want to manage the Delta T of the secondary loop with a variable speed pump so it slows the water down through that loop and returns water a bit cooler to the boiler . If baseboard use a 20* Delta t and if radiators you may want to go between 30 and 40* The Burnham tech can tell you what speed to set the primary circ at , setting it at a higher speed increases your short cycling issue by putting more hot return water through the boiler .
If you can make the time I would look into a 2 day trip to Cranston RI for Tacos course called Advanced soup to variable speed nuts , there is a class scheduled in October . This course is by far the very best learning opportunity available at present for up and coming hydronic guys . No , I don't work for Taco .
@ September 21, 2013 8:21 AM in Help with using Navien in a primary/secondary loopas stated by others is a horrible idea . I see you have a 400 gallon storage tank there for the wood boiler and another tank w/ HX being used to heat water for domestic and heating .
Think about using the HX for just DHW , use the buffer tank as a hydraulic separator (it is) and plumb in your boiler / combi of choice properly sized for this system . I agree with everything stated above and would add that the Combi that you are thinking of will not adequately heat this volume of water .
Just plumb everything on the secondary side of the storage tank as it own zone , heat zones and DHW zone as a priority zone possibly . Using the tank that is there makes Pri / Sec . very uncomplicated . It is a buffer tank and the biggest concern will now be is that tank sized properly . The system as a whole should function much more efficiently .
Just pipe the supply and return to the tank in other words
@ September 20, 2013 8:45 AM in Help with using Navien in a primary/secondary loopin the Navien is only capable of 5 GPM .
@ September 20, 2013 7:49 AM in training for hydronics/steamhas a 2 day course in Cranston RI . It is by far the best training for anyone who really wants to learn about hydronics . Really good value with hotel accomodations included . John Barba is the trainer , not product based either , just everything you NEED to KNOW . Check out this months PHC news , page 50 for a description of the course or go to Taco's website to see if spots are still available for October class , just in time for heating season . As far as steam goes follow the recommendation in the last post . I attached the link and it appears there are spots open in October .
@ September 19, 2013 12:17 AM in Zone actuators & zone valvesyou have multiple zones in an area where only 1 manifold is desirable or possible .
@ September 17, 2013 8:07 PM in Zone actuators & zone valvesin effect are zone valves for each loop . You would not need additional zone valves .
@ September 12, 2013 9:20 PM in Radiant Heat not Heatingemission plates . Yes you should have a space between them . An inch is usually good . They will expand as anything that gets hot does , they should have room to do so without affecting adjacent plates or putting undue stress on tubing .
@ September 10, 2013 6:27 AM in High efficiency gas boilersElite Ft would be a good choice , I believe the munchkin is discontinued . Don't even take one if there is some in the pipeline for cheap , there is a reason for this .
Measuring your existing baseboard radiation is not a substitute for a proper heat loss and may end up giving you a too large boiler . After having a heat loss performed however you may find out that there is too much baseboard and be able to lower your water temps .
Contacting Scott may be just the solution to your problem .
I would certainly have whomever does this job leave provision for the addition of the indirect heater later . Although your water heater is only 2 years old you may still want to sacrifice it for the indirect now . Making your Domestic hot water will certainly be less expensive and will immediately start toward recouping the cost of this work . Just a thought .
@ September 8, 2013 8:12 PM in High efficiency gas boilersattack someone Carl ? I re read my last response several times and fail to see an attack or condemnation of anyones' opinion . Possibly these are local water issues that some experience but not in my area . Sorry to hear that you and some others have had a bad experience . Now , I will say that if anybody asked for an endorsement on the S120 indirect I will say with venom , NO WAY ! Only Buderus product I have had an issue with .
@ September 8, 2013 7:15 PM in Do I have enough gas, coming from meterthat Tim . You can surely see where your response may elicit him to doubt the installed piping's effectiveness though ? Correct , we do not know what type of pressure he is receiving , thus the advice to observe the regulator information . I am fortunate to be in an area where such pressure problems do not exist , it is a luxury . Tim , what are your thoughts on those same problems being lessened by educating as to sizing the installed systems in this way ?
@ September 8, 2013 1:25 PM in Do I have enough gas, coming from meterI do not mean to challenge you . But you are well respected in the industry and maybe we should really start to educate the installers / designers . After all the intent of the code is to minimize the hazards associated with the storage and distribution of explosive gasses within the built environment , is it not ? In the example given by the Op . 384,000 with the first being 10 feet in and 199,000 the pressure loss through that segment of the system would be .18" wc , assuming an 8" reg with a 1/2" drop through the meter we would have 7.32" at the tee , the segment from the tee to the equipment could be 33.13 feet of 1/2" (@.067" pdpf) and still supply with all fixtures calling . The second segment according to our poster would be 185,000 . 190,000 would have a pressure drop of .005" per foot for steel pipe . 7.32" minus 5.1 inches would give us an allowable pressure drop of 2.25" . 2.25" divided by .005" would allow us to go 450 feet to the remaining 185,000 . Is this not correct ?
I am only speaking in terms of what we can do , here in NJ the utilities would love to see us only use a .5" pressure drop and the longest run method , but should we ? We are allowed to utilize any of the sizing methods at our disposal , maybe not so everywhere . But from a physics standpoint barring the complete lack of physics in an area the sizing methods should be utilized to design the best system . It would be a shame for someone with an installed system that is in fact adequate to spend time and money to upgrade or change for reasons that do not exist . What say you ?
@ September 8, 2013 1:07 PM in Do I have enough gas, coming from meterTim, I believe you are using a .3" chart . Is that Correct? Allowable Pressure drop as defined in 402.5 in the IFGC is "the design pressure loss in any piping system under maximum probable flow conditions from the point of delivery"(meter)"to the inlet of the equipment shall be such that the supply pressure at the equipment is greater than the minimum supply pressure required for proper equipment operation. "
Taking this approach , the installed system may in fact be large enough . Sew-kul , what is the range in inches water column stamped on the regulator prior to the meter . 5-6" , 6-8" ?