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RobG

RobG

Joined on June 4, 2011

Last Post on September 14, 2014

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Sand

@ September 14, 2014 7:22 PM in snowmelt dilemma

Sand was about 3" if I recall correctly. I did it in June or July (it was hot). I would never have done this for a client without having tried it for myself. I would do it now though. I just ran it as an on /  off system as I am in Virginia with not allot of snowfall. Response time was good, if I turned it on as the snow started falling it would start melting within a couple of hours typically. I had one snowstorm that I was on vacation when it hit and arrived to two feet on the driveway and three on the apron from the plowing. I parked on the street and turned it on and within twenty four hours had a clean, dry driveway. I still had to shovel the apron though :(    I can't remember what the water temp was but it wasn't high, 100 maybe? The biggest thing I worried about was the sand shifting from the tube expansion but I never had a problem.

Rob 

Wings Of Gold?

@ September 14, 2014 2:12 PM in PLEASE READ: New site going up this week.

Was that the book about WW1 pilots, German and American who fought in battle and then ended up barnstorming after the war? If so, it was a great book, I read it so long ago that that I have a hard time remembering anything but vague details. I would love to read it again if I could find it.

Rob

Asphat snowmelt

@ September 14, 2014 1:46 PM in snowmelt dilemma

As Gordy said (you have one hell of a memory Gordy), I did my old house (I moved last year) in asphalt in 2002. For me it was kind of a last minute thing. I was replacing my driveway due to a pesky maple tree destroying the old one and as I looked around my garage I found that I had almost all the materials needed, how could I resist.

I remember they said it was okay at a Wirsbo training course in MN (before it was Uponor). Insulation, tubing, sand, asphalt. Be sure and run cold water through the tubing as the asphalt is being laid. Water was going in one manifold at about 50 degrees and coming out the other at about 120. It worked well for me for 13 years and I assume it is still going strong.

Rob

Tee's

@ September 13, 2014 5:03 PM in First timer with questions

If you are going to split the loops using tees you should put globe valves on the branches to throttle the flow to balance the flow.

Rob

Yes

@ September 13, 2014 2:02 PM in Is this correct?

The condensate is acidic. If you ever want to shine up an old penny just put it in some untreated condensate. The neutralizer is filled with limestone which, well, neutralizes the condensate. I have seen condensate eat up a copper waste line in a year. It will also eat up concrete just as well. A leaking condensate drain can destroy a boiler pad in short order. 

Rob

What?

@ September 13, 2014 1:37 PM in Need help / Can't listen to wife another minute

Come on Ice, you didn't get rid of your radiator stretcher AND your pipe stretcher when you retired did you?

Size?

@ September 13, 2014 12:35 PM in Replacing old oil boiler

I understand that you can get the Buderus at a good price however is it the right size (or can it be fired) to match the heat loss of the home?

Rob

I Series

@ September 12, 2014 4:23 PM in Deciding between a new condensing boiler, or a FREE conventional boiler

I'm not much of a typist so I will keep this short. The valve will mix the return water with the supply water to adjust the system temp to what is needed based on the outdoor air reset curve while allowing the boiler to operate off the aquastat setting (typically the max water temp the building requires).

See the link.
http://www.taco-hvac.com/uploads/FileLibrary/102-145.pdf

Rob

Rosettes

@ September 12, 2014 4:01 PM in Radiator feet

Steamhead and Gordo have cast them themselves out of recycled forced air gas valves however I don't think that they have allot of them. In a previous thread someone used wood rosettes for interior trim as foot elevators. Just Google "wood rosettes" and you will come up with some options.

Rob

Free?

@ September 12, 2014 3:41 PM in Deciding between a new condensing boiler, or a FREE conventional boiler

Free seems hard to beat. If it were me I would take the free boiler and use a Taco I Valve to mix it down and provide boiler protection with outdoor air reset. 60K btu's seems awful steep for a 1500 square foot structure. Are you sure about that?

And elevate the boiler as high as you can in case of future floods.


Rob

I've never tried it

@ September 12, 2014 2:54 PM in Break the old elbow?

I've never tried it but I think Mark Eatherton mentioned using table salt on a wet fitting to rust the leak closed. If it works on a pressurized iron fitting I would think steam would be a breeze. Seems like something to try before tearing it apart. I never have the time to try these things at anyone else's house however I would not hesitate to try it at my own. Just take a wet rag and put salt all over it and wrap it around the fitting for a few days, salting and watering regularly.

JMHO,
Rob

To iterate

@ September 12, 2014 2:00 PM in Some help with sq.ft and boiler recommendation please

When I was reading the post and saw that you were in N.J. I was going to recommend Joe. Chris beat me to it though. Joe will probably not be the low bidder however you don't get what you don't pay for. Have it done once and have it done right.

JMHO,

Rob

What Carl said

@ September 10, 2014 9:04 AM in In-floor radiant heat system: Boiler issues

Listen to what Carl said. Either remove all ferrous components from the system or flush it as you have you have been doing and use an oxygen inhibitor. Rhomar or Fernox products will do the job. Your pressure gauge is just as gunked up as the rest of the system, that is why you don't see the pressure drop when you let the water out of the system. Get a new gauge for your boiler and check the expansion tank and fill valve. It is always good to have a secondary gauge as well to spot check pressures.

You should also replace the weeping relief valve as well.

http://www.supplyhouse.com/Zurn-HGI-25-Hose-Bibb-Pressure-Gauge-with-Maximum-Pressure-Indicator?gclid=Cj0KEQjw7b-gBRC45uLY_avSrdgBEiQAD3OlxwpvrgZPlgCd4DBu06hrSinShDvEv129gybjmTke5iwaAjSL8P8HAQ


Rob

Just a guess

@ September 10, 2014 3:49 AM in confused?? or is this correct too?

Just a guess, but I think that with the tight passages on those heat exchangers they want to ensure that no crud gets into the unit. It's probably on the supply to filter any existing debris from an existing cast iron system.

I just pipe them as they recommend. If not piped according to manufactures specs the warranty will not be honored. If you want to deviate from their prints get a new set of prints from them or you will own it!

The Asians are fair but tough to work with. Cross your tee's and dot your I's.

Rob

Pay To Play

@ September 10, 2014 3:11 AM in What affects the vacuum degree of vacuum hot water boiler

If you want to advertise your products you should contact the web site owner.

Rob

Pictures?

@ September 10, 2014 2:43 AM in Can you recommend somebody in the Boston area?

If you can post some pictures and details of the system I am sure you will get some great advice.

Rob

As a comparison

@ September 6, 2014 4:08 PM in Unbalanced Steam System?????????

As a comparison to your steam pressure. The Empire State Building runs at under two pounds of pressure.

Three Houses

@ September 6, 2014 3:46 PM in Unbalanced Steam System?????????

As you said "I have three houses all running at the same pressure" all that means is that you have three houses that are running at the wrong pressure. Lowering the pressure is the starting point. It's Free! It's easy! And it will save you money! You keep going back to the blocked returns from some blurb you found on the web, forget about that for now. Unless your boiler is flooding or cutting out on low water your safe on that issue. This is a process, you have to start at the beginning. If you don't believe that you are getting great advice here from people that know of what they speak you may want to look elsewhere for advice. 

Rob

Interesting

@ September 6, 2014 3:21 PM in dishwasher waste piping

This is an interesting one. Are you required by code to have an air gap in your area or can you loop to hose under the sink prior to dumping in the tailpiece or garbage disposer? The next question would be whether the pump on the dishwasher can handle the length of the run (you will have to check the I&O manual or call the manufacturer for that one). My biggest argument against running the hose under floor and to the sink is that someday the dishwasher will have to be replaced and some poor schmuck will have to get a new hose over to the sink (or rig up the old one). In my opinion even if it IS legal to run the hose under the floor I would still run a drain line with a vent (either a bow vent or a line vent).

JMHO.
Rob 

Agree

@ September 5, 2014 4:42 PM in Going around obsticals

The waste line would probably take an hour or so to re-route. Looks like the easiest and cheapest alternative to me. Sawzawl, a few feet of pipe, some forty fives, a new wye, a male adaptor with plug and a coupling or two.  

Rob

Pressure

@ September 5, 2014 4:20 PM in Unbalanced Steam System?????????

As most folks have already pointed out, there is no point in trying to troubleshoot the system until the pressure is under control. Please do that before posting more. With the pressure that high it will wreak havoc on your vents and there is no point in going further

Rob

Estimate

@ September 5, 2014 3:28 PM in burner conversion Peerless EC/ECT via Carlin EZ pro?

If you are still in the process of getting estimates you should call JSTAR (Joe Staroliac) Sorry if I spelled the last name wrong. He can evaluate your system and give you great service. His company is Thatcher HVAC. Use the find a contractor tab on the site for his info. I'm sure many others on the site would recommend him.

I just found his info:
- Joe Starosielec
732-494-4357


Rob
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