Joined on June 4, 2011
Last Post on December 7, 2013
@ December 7, 2013 4:44 PM in radiant service in MinneapolisIt is possible that your expansion tank bladder may have blown out releasing air into the system. Try removing the cap and putting a tire pressure gauge on it. If it reads zero or water comes out of it, you need a new tank (not expensive or difficult to replace). give it a shot and let us know.
@ December 7, 2013 4:29 PM in Copper Press FittingsIs there any way to disassemble a press fitting without cutting and coupling?
@ December 7, 2013 4:24 PM in Rotation IndicatorsIf you cannot afford to give a customer a five dollar piece of ADVERTISING on a multi-thousand dollar boiler installation then you need to charge more! I think it would be great as a giveaway, and while explaining the system to the customer you can show them how to use it. People in this day and age love gadgets.
@ December 7, 2013 1:51 PM in radiant service in MinneapolisGo to the "Shop" tab on this site and purchase the book "Hydronic Radiant Heating". You will find it in the hot water heating book section. It is written for the layman and is a fun read. It will aid you immensely in understanding your system. (and help keep this site going) :)
How did you end up with a beta test system in your home?
What were they testing?
Who owned the house when the system was installed?
@ November 22, 2013 1:35 PM in Help! Unusual system design problemI was looking at the instructions for the UPS Series 200.
@ November 21, 2013 4:23 PM in Help! Unusual system design problemI just checked the literature and these pumps should be mounted with the motor upwards.
@ November 21, 2013 3:16 PM in How Does this Install Look?I don't know the flow rates of the zones but I would not feel comfortable not having primary secondary piping on that system. The installer did obviously take pride in his or her workmanship.
@ November 21, 2013 11:08 AM in Problem heating second levelYou may have an improperly set up FuelMizer. The FuelMizer is designed to give your boiler outdoor reset control. This means that when it is warmer outside it supplies cooler water to your baseboards and when it colder it supplies hotter water. These units take some trial and error adjustments to get the water temps set up correctly. It may simply be an adjustment issue. Go to this link and download the instructions if you don't have them. Let us know if this helps.
@ November 17, 2013 2:52 PM in Twin Aerco boilers installed this week. Really like these boilers.Very nice install especially for such a tight space. My only question is regarding the size of the gas piping, It looks awfully small for 300K plus BTU's? What kind of units were there before? It sounds like this is a residence, how big is it?
@ November 17, 2013 2:02 PM in monofloWith 80' of pex and no under-slab insulation your fighting a losing battle. Without supplemental heat you WILL lose.
@ November 15, 2013 5:14 PM in Should I have separate system and boiler pumps?They didn't charge you did they? What kind of cycle times are you getting?
Congrats on getting it taken care of. Is the outdoor air reset hooked up, if not, they need to come back out and install it as your daughter is losing out on efficiency and comfort without it (the boiler comes with the sensors and controls
@ November 12, 2013 2:25 PM in Radiant floor heat not heating properlyMake sure all the pipe has an oxygen barrier. I count three different types of piping not counting the copper. If the pipe does not have an oxygen barrier let us know, hopefully all the under slab piping is He-pex at least.
@ November 12, 2013 12:19 PM in I lost a job to a company that did this:Hopefully they will come back and re-pipe it in CPVC as it should be :)
@ November 8, 2013 4:14 PM in Laars Endurance Help Advice What Next?The mixing valve that you should be using at the boiler should be ASSE 1017 approved to be code compliant (the EBT 110 is not). A Watts 1170 would work. As well, the installation instructions do show a flow control fitting on the cold inlet. You should contact Laars to find out where to get one.
@ November 8, 2013 3:55 PM in Phantom circulation in forced hot waterWe are still waiting for your answer to Bob's questions? I'm with Zman, I can't see how the boiler is piped. I'm sure that to you "It looks like a furnace company installed the boiler". And please use spell check when you respond to Bob's questions. (too bad the site doesn't have grammar check as well).
Boiler feed - what difference does it make? With a sealed system the amount of feed water has to be insignificant wherever it enters the system.
Why is the pump location "improper"? Where should it be?
Why is the air scoop location improper? Where should it be?
Why don't I need a scoop? How would the air be released otherwise?
@ November 8, 2013 3:01 PM in Should I have separate system and boiler pumps?Your best bet to get the system working correctly would be to use a small electric water heater (without the electricity hooked up) as a buffer tank / low loss header. that will give you primary / secondary piping, and solve the pumping and short cycling issues. You really need a hydronic pro to do this right. Where are you located? Maybe we can recommend someone. I thought your boiler was a fire-tube type heat exchanger, not a Giannoni which is quite restrictive.
@ November 7, 2013 2:55 PM in Should I have separate system and boiler pumps?Did the heat ever work? It sounds as though you're not moving any water. Have you tried power purging the system? I'm pretty sure that I heard that that boiler can be direct piped, however it did not show it in the "conceptional" drawings. I would try purging the air. However I do agree it should be piped primary / secondary to ensure proper flow across the heat exchanger because loop lenghts are unknown there is no way to calculate the head pressure
@ November 7, 2013 1:41 PM in Laars Endurance Help Advice What Next?Has the system ever work right since you have lived there?
@ November 7, 2013 1:27 PM in Laars Endurance Help Advice What Next?Are you on well or city water? If you are on a well, you are probably getting pressure fluctuations that the mixing valve cannot compensate for. The timing thing may be when the tank pressure drops enough that the well pump kicks on?
If that is the case there is an easy fix.
@ November 6, 2013 3:13 PM in Should I have separate system and boiler pumps?rjb, please be nice, it is the first rule of this website. It is called Heating help for a reason! It is not called "bash people who install furnaces". In fact most of us on this site have installed our share of furnaces in our time. It in no way precludes us from knowing hydronics. Please check your negativity at the door. Thanks.
Michael, can you post some pictures of the boiler and the piping and describe where and what the piping goes to (cast iron radiators, baseboard heat etc.). Those boilers can be piped direct (one pump) or primary / secondary (multiple pumps) it all depends on the application. Can you also look up the error codes in your manual and let us know what they indicate.
@ November 5, 2013 11:16 PM in wasting energy - underutilized boiler?The best information is at your fingertips. You need to go to the shop on this website and buy yourself the book "We Got Steam Heat". It's easy and fun reading that you can get through in a couple of nights. You will find yourself more comfortable with your steam heat and end up more knowledgeable than some folks who call themselves Pro's. I'm sure that all the people on this site agree with me.
The best investment money can buy. Here's the link
@ November 5, 2013 11:00 PM in Cast iron radiator not getting hotAlso make sure that the new pump is installed correctly. As it is, the motor on the pump is vertical, it should be horizontal so that it does not overheat. The installer will need to rotate the flanges for the pump.