Heating Help

Here you go

@ January 8, 2012 11:11 AM in Need a Steam Pro in Queens, NY area

http://www.heatinghelp.com/forum-thread/139265/Anyone-know-a-good-steam-specialist-in-NYC

I used

@ December 23, 2011 7:47 PM in Anyone know a good steam specialist in NYC?

Joe Kerrigan of A Superior Plumber for my mother's house in Astoria. I found him through "Find a Contractor"

I'll second that

@ December 23, 2011 7:36 AM in Kudos to Dan & thanks to Joe Kerrigan

Joe K fixed the problems with our steam boiler and hydronic boiler. He's great

Here's the after

@ December 20, 2011 8:23 PM in Laars Minitherm clicking noise

A Superior plumber made it right

A pro took a look

@ December 17, 2011 10:51 AM in Laars Minitherm clicking noise

He will add an air scoop and a bypass and reconfigure the piping so that the expansion tank is properly located. He says NYC no longer wants drip legs. I found him using this site's "Find a contractor" feature, and it's worked out well for me. Thanks to everyone for their input

Thanks for the feedback

@ December 15, 2011 5:38 PM in Laars Minitherm clicking noise

Installed by a licensed plumber hired by general contractor for remodel of 2nd floor in Astoria, NY. I'm having someone else come have a look soon. I'll pass on your observations

Thanks for the reply

@ December 15, 2011 12:13 PM in Laars Minitherm clicking noise

The initial symptoms (LWCO preventing boiler from firing) haven't reappeared since Tuesday night. Today a plumber (1) set temp on heater to 175; it had been set to 130; (2) set aquastat to 210; it had been set to 240+; (3) replaced expansion tank with a larger model (4.8 gallons); old tank was full of blackish water. Boiler is in the basement. System is heating the 2nd floor faster now. There are minor gurgling sounds. Is this system supposed to be completely quiet? Also, is the LWCO correctly mounted on the return side?

If you see an air scoop in the pictures, please let me know where it is

Air vents?

@ December 15, 2011 8:51 AM in Laars Minitherm clicking noise

There aren't any on the 2nd floor. Argo baseboards run along the perimeter walls. No vents I can see upstairs. Don't see any around the unit either

Fast fill

@ December 15, 2011 8:48 AM in Laars Minitherm clicking noise

It has an Apollo fast fill regulator, model FF. The PSI when the unit isn't running is 20; reaches about 30 when it's running

Thanks for the reply

@ December 14, 2011 9:15 AM in Laars Minitherm clicking noise

Two months ago, the system was filled/purged due to other noise issues in the pipes. Does this type of system need to be filled/purged every few months?

Laars Minitherm clicking noise

@ December 14, 2011 6:52 AM in Laars Minitherm clicking noise

A Laars Minitherm hydronic boiler (75K BTU Model JVT075NDJS) was installed in April 2011 to heat the 2nd floor of my mother's house. It began to make a loud clicking noise yesterday, but does so intermittently. The noise coincides with the low water cutoff light alternating between red and green. The noise seems to happen when the boiler wants to fire. Cycling power to the unit seems to eliminate the problem for a while but it then reoccurs. I live 2000 miles away and don't have this type of heating system. Any idea what's causing the noise?

Thanks

@ November 4, 2011 9:12 AM in Gorton valve spewing water in mom's old house

I wasn't sure. Rewiring was my plumber's suggestion--time to get a new plumber. I'm not sure if this is OK to ask but can anyone recommend a good steam guy in Astoria, NY?

Wiring question

@ November 4, 2011 7:42 AM in Gorton valve spewing water in mom's old house

When the boiler cuts out, the components wired in series (low-water cut off, automatic feed, and something under the flue (smoke detector?)) lose power. Is this right or should each component have power all the time?

Thanks

@ November 4, 2011 7:35 AM in Gorton valve spewing water in mom's old house

I'll replace it with a Gorton 1 or 2 pronto

Thanks

@ November 3, 2011 2:02 PM in Gorton valve spewing water in mom's old house

The Steam Main and Return Main join at about 10-11 inches above floor. Your "estimated water line" is about 18-19 inches above floor. The water in the glass vial on the boiler is about 26 inches above floor.

There seem to be two check valves along the return below the Loop. One is on each side of where the main return joins together with a smaller return serving one radiator. I can't take a single photo showing both the 2nd Groton valve and the Loop because of nearby walls limting how much I can back up

Later today, the plumber is supposed to lower the pressure on the boiler to 1 and install another Maid-O-Mist

Very informative links--thanks.

Answers

@ November 2, 2011 4:25 PM in Gorton valve spewing water in mom's old house

1. The level looks good at the glass vial on the boiler. It's from 1 to 3 inches above base of tube, and never more than half way up. Doesn't fluctuate wildly when boiler is running.
2. Nope--no vents on that pipe. Only the two vents I've mentioned. I'll ask plumber about this.
3. OK. There's another by the boiler.
4. Yesterday, the plumber attached a hose to the spigot below the Hartford loop and drained some water out. But that line hasn't EVER been thoroughly cleaned to my knowledge. Certainly hasn't since my father died 15 years ago. Does a plumber do this work or a sewer guy?
5. The PSI gauge now shuts off the boiler when it reads 2.0. Is that low enough?
Thanks for the feedback--greatly appreciated

Naturally

@ November 2, 2011 1:49 PM in Gorton valve spewing water in mom's old house

Boiler fired up. Maid-O-Mist valve din't spew water but the Gorton D by the boiler sure did.

Follow up and thanks

@ November 2, 2011 1:14 PM in Gorton valve spewing water in mom's old house

The Maid-O-Mist replaced a Gorton D. The vent nearer the boiler is also a Gorton D. I think there's sufficient clearance for the Gorton #2--thanks for the link. I'll see if a local plumbing supply place has any.

I checked the pressuretrol again and cut in is 0.5, diff inside the box is 1, and so cut out should be 1.5 although PSI gauge reaches 2-2.5. Are these settings low enough?

Thanks

@ November 2, 2011 12:36 PM in Gorton valve spewing water in mom's old house

Thanks for the reply. See my previous reply for some feedback and photos. I asked the plumber yesterday about downfiring the boiler and he didn't think that was possible. The 2nd floor wasn't previously rented out to tenants; an uncle lived there for free. After he passed, we thought it best to add a separate heating system for the 2nd floor as there's just one thermostat in the house and it's on the 1st floor. My mom sets it for her comfort on the 1st floor and typically it's chilly on the 2nd floor. Perhaps we could have done something differently but too late for that.

Follow up and thanks

@ November 2, 2011 12:24 PM in Gorton valve spewing water in mom's old house

Yes, X and Y pipes are correctly labelled. These are the principal main and return (about 35 ft from X and Y to boiler), serving 4 radiators. There's a separate, shorter main and return right near the boiler that serves just 1 radiator. The pressuretrol is set as follows: cut in, 0.5-1; cut off, 2.5. (By cut off, I mean to say the max PSI the gauge hits before the boiler turns off--don't know if my terminology is correct).

The plumber dropped by and replaced the spewing Gorton with a Maid-O-Mist No. 67 auto vent. This thing has a cap on it like the valve-stem cap on tires. I don't see how water can spew out of it, but can steam vent from it?

I've attached several photos. From the stairs as seen in one of the photos, the return travels back to the boiler along the floor for about 30 ft. It's not a straight shot; there are several elbows along the way to the boiler.

Gorton valve spewing water in mom's old house

@ November 2, 2011 9:25 AM in Gorton valve spewing water in mom's old house

The boiler (1995 Weil-McLain 175K BTU, EG-50-SPDN) in my mom’s house (built in 1925 in NYC) heated the entire two-family house (2000 sq ft plus full basement) until earlier this year. A Laars Minitherm (75K BTU) and baseboards were installed to heat the 2nd floor so that tenants would be responsible for their own heat. The Laars seems to work fine. The 1st floor of the house has the original cast-iron radiators and is a 2-pipe system (none of the radiators has a relief valve). A Gorton D valve on a return pipe in the basement at the front of the house (boiler is at rear) now spews about 1 cup of cool water about 10 minutes after the boiler fires up, after having emitted air for most of the 10-minute period. The valve has never spewed water before, although these Gortons were installed to replace older valves when the Laars was installed. There are only two equalizing valves in the system; the other Gorton D is on a return pipe by the boiler and doesn’t seem to emit steam or water. A plumber elevated the spewing valve (it’s now about 6.5 ft above the floor just below the ceiling), cleaned/drained the boiler, and examined one of the check valves in the return at floor level. He wasn’t sure what else to do to solve the spewing. He wondered if the Weil was now too large considering that it’s only heating the 1st floor now (all pipes running through 1st floor to 2nd floor were also removed during renovation). Is the Gorton D undersized? When the Gortons were installed, a bushing was installed below the valve to attach it to the larger opening in the return pipe—is this OK? My house in Colorado has a forced hot air furnace so I’m learning about boilers slowly. Any ideas as to what’s causing the spewing? Is this a safety issue? (I've attached a pic of the spewing Gorton)