Joined on November 26, 2011
Last Post on December 6, 2013
@ December 6, 2013 9:53 PM in radiant service in Minneapolisgenerally succumb to logical reduction. Assuming your observations are accurate (please don't take that personally, it's a science thing) there is a significant probability your problem will return. Your job is to be armed and ready with a collection of measurements and observations which will allow you to find the root cause.
@ December 6, 2013 8:29 PM in Large Venting Job / Nicholson Trap...and I'll bet they take up a lot less space. Given some of the tight basement overheads I've seen, that could really prove useful.
@ December 6, 2013 8:14 PM in Large Venting Job / Nicholson Trapgreat to see the use of a thermostatic trap on a main.
I'm curious about the feasibility of using a radiator trap -- perhaps something about equal to four Gorton #2s?
@ December 6, 2013 8:00 PM in Regulating steam valveNow I'm even more convinced. Do the right thing for those who are caring for this a hundred years from now. Save and document all the tiles you remove so that the original finish can be restored if needed.
@ December 6, 2013 12:02 PM in See-through or dual room natural gas fireplaceAnd when was the cottage built? I'd probably suggest one of these http://www.rinnai.us/direct-vent-wall-furnace
@ December 5, 2013 11:31 PM in finished basement= trapped vent and cold radiator?with the vent removed, and no steam from the open hole?
@ December 5, 2013 10:55 PM in 1/2" pex homerun to iron radsrequires 1 GPM at a 20º∆T. No problem for 1/2" PEX (1.81 FPS, less than 4' of head per 100'.) I'd probably run them at a 25º - 30º∆T.
@ December 5, 2013 9:42 PM in Regulating steam valveBring an experienced tile wrangler in there and (once you take photos) have them remove the mosaic in the areas you plan to drill. Find the best looking escutcheons you can, leave a bit of margin. Diamond wet core drill would be best -- impact cores can wreak havoc on fine finishes.
@ December 4, 2013 7:27 PM in Hot water baseboard heatingwhat size boiler and what brand/size indirect did you have before?
@ December 4, 2013 4:53 PM in BTU Meterare the only way to do this fairly IMO. Just like electrical submeters we see in commercial buildings, it becomes part of the lease terms.
@ December 4, 2013 12:54 PM in Lochinvar Knight - single pump, 3 zone systembut I overlooked the fact that you had two different types of emitters. Run the numbers and make sure they can peacefully coexist.
@ December 4, 2013 12:50 PM in BTU Meterwill work as long as every metered branch has the same ∆T. I'm skeptical that would actually happen, even with ∆T pumps all around.
@ December 3, 2013 8:46 PM in Lochinvar Knight - single pump, 3 zone systemI've seen houses like that running design temps of 120ºF through plates and 90ºF for a slab (plus or minus five on all.) With proper emitter design you could actually series pipe the floors.
@ December 3, 2013 7:41 PM in Putting system together - pump selection helpTheir low head loss allows greater flexibility in system design, even to the point of moderate knuckleheading. They also save on pumping costs, tolerate hard water somewhat better, and seem to need less frequent maintenance.
Pioneered by Triangle Tube about a decade ago, they are now available from many boiler manufacturers (including Lochinvar.)
@ December 3, 2013 7:04 PM in Putting system together - pump selection helpit pretty much mandatory with the high head loss of most mod/cons. It allows you to run a different ∆T on the boiler and the emitters (particularly helpful with radiant floors.)
It also reduces the chance of a clueless installer killing the boiler. Combine that with lawyers and you see where significant portions of installation manuals originate.
@ December 3, 2013 6:54 PM in Lochinvar Knight - single pump, 3 zone systemIs it just two temps? If so, I'd probably suggest a Viessmann 200W B2HA. Its onboard controls will handle the external mixing valve (and it has even better turndown than the Lochinvar.) It will require primary/secondary piping in the size you are looking at, but the savings on external gadgets can be significant.
@ December 3, 2013 6:48 PM in Thermostat or notthe Chinese manufacturers have been aggressively cheapening these things for the past decade or so.
Try to find one with seven fins (most have five) and look out for cheesy feet or wheels.
@ December 3, 2013 6:45 PM in Putting system together - pump selection helpIf you read carefully, you will see that direct pumping is approved.
No need for a bypass valve if you use a ∆P circ.
Taco claims a Bumble Bee will work even better. I can see circumstances where it might produce lower return temps, but but I haven't tried one.
Still need to do a head loss, but the majority of residential jobs will work with that curve.
@ December 3, 2013 3:03 PM in Putting system together - pump selection helpand drop the primary-secondary, pump it straight through the HX. One pump for the whole system.
@ December 3, 2013 2:58 PM in Putting system together - pump selection helpAre available on the larger (Magna, Stratos, Viridian) models but not on the "residential" models. Again, I REALLY wish we had an option for this, along with some smaller ECM circs (all of which have curves roughly equivalent to that of a 008.)
The internal controls of a ∆P pump will not play nice with a modulating boiler. The internal controls on a ∆T pump should work, but we've seen enough problems reported here that I hesitate to recommend them (plus, the 008 curve matches quite poorly with a low resistance HX.)
@ December 3, 2013 2:17 PM in Putting system together - pump selection helpon the firetube HX is essentially zero. Looking at the 35ºF chart, I see 0.37 ft of head at 5 GPM. I sincerely doubt the entire circuit will exceed 1 ft. Turndown on those VVF pumps is 300:1 according to Taco, but the 006 is the smallest cast iron model you can buy. They do offer a 003 VVF in bronze or stainless, but no unions as far as I know, so replacing them in the field gets tough.