Joined on November 26, 2011
Last Post on August 30, 2014
@ January 15, 2013 4:59 PM in Misc questions on radiant"Cheaper than" is highly job dependent. If you're retrofitting an existing house, probably. If it's a new build and you're using WarmBoard as the subfloor, maybe. They do take up some wall space which limits your options for furniture placement.
RPA membership used to be a given for pretty much anyone in this industry who was serious. The decline of the RPA over the past few years made it less attractive to many of us, though ME assures us things are tilting back the other way now.
Hydronic towel warmers are a real treat in bathrooms and can be piped a number of ways. Separately from other zones if they are the only radiation in the room, with or without a zone valve or TRV. In series with a floor loop if the other system emitters were designed for higher temps. Which works best really depends on the particulars of the system and the location (heat loss) of the bathroom.
@ January 15, 2013 1:14 PM in Misc questions on radiantIf you size them appropriately, water temps can be kept low.
@ January 14, 2013 8:41 PM in High delta T, how to adjust it?I avoid them like the plague.
Proper hydraulic design works so much better...
@ January 14, 2013 8:12 PM in High delta T, how to adjust it?1 x 3/4 x 3/4
@ January 14, 2013 7:02 PM in Chilled ceiling designI looked into some of these (from Switzerland IIRC) a few years back for a project and the materials cost alone came to almost $25 PSF. Have they come down from that?
@ January 14, 2013 6:54 PM in TRV Zoning (Timers)Would love to see those available here, though I have to admit that wireless would be even better.
@ January 14, 2013 6:46 PM in Misc questions on radiantWorks primarily by convection. Putting it on the ceiling might work (somewhat) for cooling, but would be counterproductive for heating.
Warm walls (lower half) or ceilings work quite well.
@ January 14, 2013 4:45 PM in Baseboard, runtal, buderous??? Switching from forced hot air to hydronic!!!205 BTU/hr/ft @180F
@ January 14, 2013 2:15 PM in Furnace Standards Squashedhttp://contractingbusiness.com/comfort/preparing-regional-efficiency-standards-0612
@ January 14, 2013 12:05 PM in Continuing Education Creditsthat has the CE requirement. They should have a list of approved courses (or they might recognize some other organization's approval.)
@ January 14, 2013 10:00 AM in Baseboard, runtal, buderous??? Switching from forced hot air to hydronic!!!Will improve both comfort and efficiency. At 180F your expensive condensing boiler is not condensing, but with Outdoor Reset it will condense for much of the season. Design temp for most of NJ is around 10-11F, but you should get the number for your specific location. With Outdoor Reset, the boiler delivers its highest temperature (might be 180F, but might be lower - you'd have to do a heat loss calc or just experiment a bit) when the outside temp is at those conditions, but lowers the water temp as the outside air warms up. Lower water temps = longer boiler run times and more condensation.
@ January 14, 2013 9:46 AM in Failing Gaskets on a Glycol Heating Systemhttp://static.victaulic.com/assets/uploads/literature/05.01.pdf says pretty much all of their gaskets are compatible with both EG and PG. I'd give Victaulic a call and ask if there is a breakdown product or glycol additive that could be causing the problem. They have a lab -- hopefully they can test for you, or at least tell you what to test for.
@ January 14, 2013 9:37 AM in Baseboard, runtal, buderous??? Switching from forced hot air to hydronic!!!Are you running outdoor reset? How is your indoor temp at design conditions?
@ January 13, 2013 10:06 PM in Baseboard, runtal, buderous??? Switching from forced hot air to hydronic!!!Will work relatively well if both are sized for the same water temp.
@ January 13, 2013 10:00 PM in Are there 12 volt DC circulator pumps?Should come within 10% of what a good DC pump needs. Voltage drop on 12V lines gets ugly fast, plus you could power a couple other critical loads.
@ January 13, 2013 7:58 PM in What size vents do I need on my mains?The water mass comes into play whenever the boiler fires up from recovery. The higher the mass (of water and iron, mostly) the longer it takes for the system to get up to temp -- or to lose temp once the boiler shuts off. By pulse-width modulating the boiler, cycle timers control average hourly output. Thermal mass averages out (performs low-pass filtering on) the on/off cycles.
@ January 13, 2013 7:45 PM in 9 residentialIMO measuring gas pressure drop when the boiler fires will require less of both time and money.
@ January 13, 2013 7:39 PM in Trimax / DHW questionA 3.3kΩ resistor and a set of SPDT contacts will do the trick.
@ January 13, 2013 2:20 PM in 9 residentialYou have yet to determine whether the burner is operating correctly or if gas pressure is dropping. Do not start changing parts before you understand the cause of your problem.
@ January 13, 2013 12:29 PM in What size vents do I need on my mains?is the flywheel effect from the volumes of water and metal in the system. Changing the 'speed' of a big flywheel is hard. Keeping it at a relatively constant 'speed' is not as hard. Hard burns fuel faster.
@ January 13, 2013 12:08 PM in 9 residentialmaybe - it depends on the meter, other appliances, etc.
@ January 13, 2013 12:07 PM in Trimax / DHW questionWhat is the homeowner trying to accomplish?