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SWEI

SWEI

Joined on November 26, 2011

Last Post on August 28, 2014

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That 5ºF differential

@ August 15, 2014 1:11 PM in TT Smart 80 & Prestige Solo 110 Summer Gas Usage

on the aquastat is a big part of your issue.  You might look at a demand-based trigger to start, then allowing the aquastat to turn the pump off once the water arrives.

Surge Protection

@ August 15, 2014 10:19 AM in UPS or Surge Protection - Condensing Boiler

as an industry has a bit of a reputation issue.  There's so much hot air out there it's amazing anything works at all without thousands of dollars of exotic voodoo plugged into it.

Brickwall looks like a power conditioner along the lines of http://www.powervar.com/power-conditioners/ which do a great job of removing all sorts of noise, but you still need something at the service entrance (think big MOVs, SOVs, gas tubes, etc.) to catch the big ones before they get inside.  Same thing with big disruptors on site.

Zoning with the sun

@ August 15, 2014 10:01 AM in System's Architect

is how we prefer to manage things.  We also zone for wood stoves, large western exposures, and intermittent occupancies (guest rooms, workshops, etc.)

Proportional zone valves will be critical, especially if you elect to leave that tubing in the slab.

I would prefer to put the cooling tubes in the ceiling

@ August 15, 2014 9:58 AM in System's Architect

However, that would be costly.

Costly?

Your design seems to be a cost-no-object approach to extracting the last 3-5% of possible energy efficiency from a dwelling.  While this is a noble and quite interessting goal, it is not cost effective by any stretch.

Pareto Principle still seems relevant to the world most of us inhabit.  Spend another couple bucks a square foot, move your tubing out of the thermal mass, and you'll end up with a much easier to control system.

Electro

@ August 15, 2014 9:48 AM in Homeowner replacing gas with electric, seek input

Nice boilers, but no ODR under 10kW (unless something changed recently.)

PEX sizes

@ August 14, 2014 1:18 PM in System's Architect

First off, 7/8" is not a standard tubing size -- most of it seems to be sold by a certain online supplier with a penchant for questionable designs and a propensity for lawyering.

In North America, PEX is sold in Copper Tube Sizes - the nominal size refers to the outside diameter of the pipe, and the inside determined by the SDR 9 standard.

For residential scale radiant, 1/2" tubing is by far the most common size used.  Conventional wisdom recommends 300' loop lengths, but even those have higher head losses than we prefer to work with.  Like high R-values, low friction is a gift that keeps on giving, saving you a little bit of money every hour of every day your pumps are running.  I try to keep my loop head under 4 ft, which allows me 0.5 GPM on 100' 3/8" loops or roughly 0.8 GPM on 150' 1/2" loops.  Either is short enough to put small rooms on their own loop, which allows us to balance the system much more easily than longer loops will.  3/4" PEX is ideal for larger spaces like warehouses and commercial garages, but in general the smaller the room, the smaller the tube size we need.  3/8" PEX is easier to install than 1/2", and we find 100' loops to work best on many of our projects.  If you're doing a dry floor system, 3/8" also allows a slightly lower floor profile.

Why will longer loops allow a lower ∆T?  In my book, they generally result in difficult to balance systems that require far too much pump head.

Math

@ August 14, 2014 1:39 AM in Is 100k BTU the right size of boiler (or HTP heater) for both baseboard heating and indirect DHW

Your heat loss of 31k is smaller than any modulating condensing boiler currently available in North America.  Time to look at minimum instead of maximum firing rates.  My current rule of thumb says you should look for a boiler whose minimum firing rate is about one third of your design day heat loss.  Here are the options I know of with minimum net outputs [in square brackets] under 12k (maximum rates in parens):

Viessmann 200-W B2HA 19   [11,580]    (64,655)
Lochinvar WHN055                [10,450]    (53,250)
Dunkirk DKVLT-050                [10,000]    (50,000)
Lochinvar Cadet CDN040         [8,545]    (37,600)

A higher maximum rate will provide faster recovery for your indirect.  I would upsize the indirect long before I specified an oversized boiler.  Keep in mind that most gas water heaters have net outputs of 30k or less, so any of the above should outperform the old tank.

Small canister-like buffer

@ August 13, 2014 11:35 PM in Gas drip leg/reservoir

would no doubt have to be listed.  Any reason a 4" x 24" nipple with some reducers on each end wouldn't work? 

Sunvelope collector

@ August 13, 2014 6:34 PM in System's Architect

Design looks interesting,  No spec sheets on their site that I could find, but they just got OG-100 certified so we have the performance data.  Looks like they perform pretty well at low ∆Ts, but performance falls off pretty severely as the ∆T increases.  Not so good for cold climates.

The system diagrams look fairly conventional.

What are you actually trying to accomplish with this system?  Is it a research project?

Gas Exchange Analysis

@ August 12, 2014 1:35 PM in Heart attack

is kind of an enhanced treadmill test, where they measure your O2 uptake and CO2 output -- from which they can determine your basal metabolic rate, max O2, and a few other tidbits about how well your entire heart/lung system is doing its job.  Fairly popular in sports medicine and gaining traction for detection of heart disease http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/11570115

This is even slicker than the machine I was tested on a few years back http://mgcdiagnostics.com/products/view/ultima-cardio2

Gas exchange analysis

@ August 12, 2014 9:29 AM in Heart attack

is a good idea (assuming your doctor is equipped for that.) 

Thermolec B-6TMB

@ August 12, 2014 9:20 AM in Homeowner replacing gas with electric, seek input

Has almost twice the output you need and should cost less than $1,000 including shipping.  It has essentially zero head resistance at the flow rates your garage will require.  It pairs perfectly with the little B&G ecocirc e3-4 Vario, which will draw under 10 Watts when running.

You don't really need an indoor thermostat, but if you install one, it should be used as a high limit controller (set 3-4ºF above the desired space temp once the ODR is dialed in.)  Leave the stat at its maximum setting during the process.

PV-Therm

@ August 11, 2014 10:23 PM in System's Architect

If this is similar to the SolarZentrum design, it combines an unglazed thermal collector with PV.  This creates a very efficient thermal collector at low ∆T conditions at the cost of severely limited output at low ambient conditions (winter.)  The upside is that the unglazed collector allows night sky cooling during the cooling season, which (with proper controls and buffering) could well eliminate the need for refrigerated cooling in the Boise climate.

Start here

@ August 11, 2014 8:21 PM in Books/Manuals on 3 phase electric

http://www.3phasepower.org/ and then follow a few of the links at the bottom.  LMK if you want to dive deeper into a particular area and I'll see what I have on file.

I'm curious about the project

@ August 11, 2014 9:46 AM in System's Architect

most particularly the overall ROI.  Is this actually going to get built with someone's hard-earned money?  I've worked on several sub-20k heat loss designs recently and we couldn't even come close to justifying the cost and complexity of a heat pump in our high mountain southwest climate (similar to some parts of southwest Idaho.)  With good passive solar orientation, R30 walls, R50 roof, and commodity double pane windows (well below Passivehaus standards) an electric resistance boiler costs about $1,000 to buy and about $50 per year to operate.  Even the cost of putting the tubing in the slab was marginal, but we and the owners both felt the future options of alternative heat sources and cooling made it worth doing.  We didn't even bother with active solar space heat in the first phase, just DHW preheating (with a single flat plate collector and pressurized drainback, simplest system we know of.)

I'd love to design and implement the controls on a project like this, but it would take a special client for sure.  Tekmar makes nice stuff, but for anything complex we find that fully programmable DDC usually costs about half what a fully-loaded multi-module Tekmar system will.

I'd suggest you take a serious look at your plan to embed emitters in the building thermal mass.  We try very hard to avoid that whenever possible, and strongly prefer a high mass building paired with low mass emitters.  If you do embed in concrete, stay away from 7/8" PEX (long story behind that particular nonstandard product, BTW.)  I usually suggest 3/8" PEX with 100' loops, giving more precise control over slab temps and making an easy job of tube installation.

Best of luck with the project -- it is quite interesting.

Electric resistance boilers

@ August 10, 2014 10:45 AM in Homeowner replacing gas with electric, seek input

do make sense in some areas -- I'll skip that discussion with the assumption you understand your fuel options and associated operation costs.

The Hydro Shark is based on a Stiebel-Eltron tankless electric water heater.  I'm not sure if they've modified the units or not, but you should inquire whether they have outdoor reset control on them.

http://www.thermolec.com/en/productview.aspx?type=product&id=62 has ODR and costs less than other options I am aware of here in NA.

Spring hose clamps

@ August 9, 2014 12:12 PM in Need to kno everything about Twintube...

come in quite a range http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Spring_Action_Hose_Clamps_s/673.htm

The newest generation of Wellworth

@ August 9, 2014 12:07 PM in Pressure assist toilets

are fantastic IMO.  1.28 GPF, under $150 in white, nice spot, and will flush pretty much anything -- be careful with small pets.

Ball Drains rock

@ August 9, 2014 1:29 AM in Condensate Return Line Cleanout System: looking for recommendations

One of our favorite fittings.  Buy them by the box.

Short version

@ August 6, 2014 11:01 PM in Survey

Don't itemize for initial estimates.  Varying levels of detail on bids depending on customer, market, and overall size of job.

Always perform detailed heat loss calc before installation.  Like Steve, I can get "close enough to bid" a residential job by looking at the location, construction, and size of the building.  We discuss rough numbers with the customer up front, but don't generally provide detailed data unless it is explicitly called out in the scope of work.

Very rough estimates sometimes discussed at the initial meeting.  99% of the time the estimate comes later via email and/or phone call -- often several, with increasing levels of specificity and detail.

Always provide options, usually three.

Type of car in the driveway mostly influences the questions we ask during the first meeting.  Those drive the proposal.

Estimates are based on what the customer wants, interpreted by what we believe will best deliver that result.  Learning to ask the right questions helps immensely. If the customer insists on a product we do not know well enough to service and support, or that that we believe is unlikely to deliver what the customer wants/needs, we wish them luck and move on.

Around here, a 3,000 sq ft two zone home is fairly high end.  We'd typically be called in by the owner or the architect as part of a major remodel or a new build.  The "basic replacement" business is typically well below our radar unless something goes wrong with the job.

Whoever is telling you that

@ August 5, 2014 11:38 AM in Gas Conversion

probably believes that hot water heating systems need constant make-up water.  They're wrong.

Fill the system wil clean water

@ August 5, 2014 11:16 AM in Gas Conversion

from a barrel if you have to.  Once it is plumbed tight and purged of air, it should hold pressure for a year or more -- no need for a permanent connection to the domestic water supply.
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