Joined on November 26, 2011
Last Post on July 29, 2014
@ July 22, 2014 6:54 PM in Just wondering about oil tanksare both divisible by 55. Think barrels. Note these are also the standard sizes of IBCs.
@ July 22, 2014 6:33 PM in Radiant Heat Matrix Other Than Concrete.Dark blue or black barrels along the south wall and perhaps the north wall depending on layout. Fill with water. Let the sun do its thing.
@ July 22, 2014 6:21 PM in Replacing electric water heaterI'm assuming there's no natural gas in the area, but just in case...
LPG prices vis-a-vis electricity vary widely. http://www.eia.gov/tools/faqs/heatcalc.xls will help you make a reasonable comparison.
If you are serious about solar, you should actually be using a tankless on the output of the solar system. Tankless electric water heaters work fabulously when fed with 80ºF solar water on a winter day. Not so good with 40ºF groundwater. I'd push for the solar now rather than trying to graft it onto a tank style heater. Parasitic losses from a two tank system can add up.
@ July 19, 2014 8:37 PM in Lovely Lane Methodist Church- A Steam Heating Museumof vintage building technologies! The bathroom ventilator was a new one for me, and I've never seen indirect heating on that kind of scale.
Thanks for sharing with us.
@ July 17, 2014 8:22 PM in Looking to make condensate neutralizerIMO they make some of the best designed condensate neutralizers (and they also sell media) http://www.axiomind.com/
@ July 17, 2014 7:59 PM in Looking to make condensate neutralizerISTR it might be someplace in Canada?
@ July 16, 2014 11:38 AM in need help and ideas with tiny home floorWhat do you have available and what does it cost? How much DHW is needed?
@ July 14, 2014 4:36 PM in Second guessingAre you planning to heat the basement and let the first floor (which sounds like it could be 4 feet above ground level) live with the leftovers?
@ July 13, 2014 8:38 PM in Gas ConversionMost of us here would say that any contractor who did not perform a heat loss calc has in effect disqualified themselves.
Unless the house is quite old and drafty, your heat loss calc of 38 BTUs per square foot may be a bit high. We also don't know exactly what species of baseboard inhabits your home. Caveats understood, 200 linear feet of Fine/Line 30 would only need ~155ºF water to heat your home on a design day. Translation: A modulating/condensing boiler would perform very efficiently there.
The NCB240 is at least 2.5 times larger than you need, and would be short cycling for much of the heating season. After checking the heat loss, a reputable contractor would quite likely recommend a mod/con boiler firing at less than 100,000 BTU/hr.
@ July 13, 2014 2:52 AM in Getting into mod/con businessin response to a post referencing a dwelling with existing high temp baseboard. The intent was to show that even an inferior emitter system (high temp baseboard) can benefit from a mod/con boiler.
The initial introduction of modulating condensing boilers into the American market was a bit bumpy. Most of us who have been at this long enough have seen our share of bad installs. The products and the installers have both come a long way in the past two decades. I have no qualms about selling and warrantying them, nor should any competent and conscientious tradesman or contractor.
@ July 12, 2014 4:06 PM in Jury Rules That CSST is a Defective ProductBummer. Have to admit that that possibility never occurred to me. I'm thinking large ground strap...
@ July 12, 2014 3:55 PM in Bonding CSST:are frequently confused and conflated -- even by electricians and licensed engineers. Grounding is mostly about lightning.
One of Mike Holt's more popular products is a $200+ series of DVDs and books on the subject. http://ecmweb.com/bonding-amp-grounding/grounding-vs-bonding-part-1-12 does a pretty good job from a code perspective if you have the time to read.
@ July 11, 2014 6:08 PM in Mod/con poll. Installers only.#3 with explanation:
Have you done a room by room heat loss and radiation survey? Don't forget to add some window coverings to the U-values (most of us close our blinds or drapes at night.)
What water temp will be required on a design day? Are the rooms relatively well balanced with the existing radiation? If just one or two rooms are under-radiated, consider increasing radiation or upgrading the envelope in those rooms (sometimes all it takes is some better window coverings) to better balance the system and lower the overall system water temp.
Is there any "low hanging fruit" in the existing envelope? What would that do to the temp requirements?
http://www.fcxalaska.com/PDFs/AshraeCondensingTechnology.pdf and http://www.fcxalaska.com/PDFs/BrookhavenBaseBoard.pdf are worth a few minutes of your time.
@ July 11, 2014 5:49 PM in Bonding CSST:Wonderful things for cost and no corrosion worries. BUT - the wires to the pump are inside it and include a ground conductor. This forms a direct metallic connection to the pump body and the water table. This often becomes the lowest impedance ground in the area. Boom!
@ July 10, 2014 3:42 PM in Tablets in the field - what do you use?Price is right and it's about the largest thing I can hold in one hand.
@ July 10, 2014 11:48 AM in Getting into mod/con businessis entirely do-able, as is heating a house with a tankless water heater. My experience is that the added cost of doing so exceeds the cost differential of a mod/con boiler. We still do a fair bit of this -- fixing bad installs, but I have yet to find a case where it pencils out on a new install unless there is solar or biomass or some other uncontrolled heat source in the system.
@ July 10, 2014 11:26 AM in Complete new system on small houseAbove 180ºF? I'd size them for 140ºF or lower if at all possible.
@ July 10, 2014 11:13 AM in Hydronic underfloor used to effectively enlarge direct solar thermal mass?We are seeing more and more of these of late. I've tried to talk the owners into radiant ceilings but the added cost (for slab on grade) has pushed the tubing back into the slab on a couple recently. I'm trying something new on one right now: Two zones in a 1500 square foot house. One for all the rooms with south facing glass and another for the remaining rooms (bedrooms and bathrooms.) Belimo CCV's on both with proportional control (think electronic TRVs.) 18,020 BTU/hr design day loss, so they get a Thermolec B-6TMB on the wall. Solar thermal DHW with electric tankless backup.
@ July 9, 2014 11:51 AM in Radiant coolingDirect link is a bit of a hairball. Go here http://www.uponorpro.com/Technical-Support/Manuals.aspx then click on Radiant Manuals to expand the category. Roughly midway down the list is "Radiant Cooling Design Manual (RCDM)"
@ July 8, 2014 10:40 PM in Getting into mod/con businessI'm quite satisfied with BTUs per degree-day (along with a per-square-foot modifier with which to compare disparate buildings.)
@ July 8, 2014 10:35 PM in Getting into mod/con business> You don't agree that the calculation for efficiency for one system as compared to another system is based on the AFUE?
> Or you don't agree that a mod-con's efficiency is typically 90%?
> Or you don't agree that a new conventional system efficiency is typically 70%?
@ July 8, 2014 10:27 PM in Complete new system on small houseUsing what water temperature? More really is better when it comes to radiation.