Joined on November 26, 2011
Last Post on December 4, 2013
@ November 19, 2013 11:08 PM in cleaning a plate and frame heat exchangerNitric acid and mild detergent have somewhat different properties. What is the residue you are trying to remove?
@ November 19, 2013 12:36 PM in Is there a truly graphical heat-loss program?Wrightsoft uses a graphical model, at least in their mobile app http://www.wrightsoft.com/products/right-j_mobile.aspx
Caveat: I have not tried it yet.
@ November 18, 2013 11:44 PM in Heating Help for Fireplaces?Is worth a shot http://www.hearth.com/talk/
@ November 18, 2013 1:58 PM in monoflo3-way would be my choice.
A 4-way *might* allow the zone to keep mixing down from residual heat even after the boiler stops firing, but that would depend on the system hydraulics.
@ November 18, 2013 11:42 AM in monofloI've grown used to properly sized mod/cons. Not sure whether the bathroom even needs to call for heat -- that would depend on the other rooms' emitter sizing and more.
@ November 18, 2013 9:07 AM in monofloshould run continuously until WWSD kicks in.
iSeries-R will handle the floor automagically once it is set properly.
In the event there are overheating issues (typically from solar gain, or a huge soaker tub) you can add a stat, but set it around 4ºF higher than the desired space temp and leave it there. If the occupants try to manage the space temp using the stat, there will be under- and overshoot issues. We find an industrial temp controller and a remote thermistor provide less opportunity for disappointment.
@ November 17, 2013 6:58 PM in monoflois a bad way to operate pumps. Their hydraulic efficiency suffers as the RPMs drop, and whatever control algorithm they use has little authority. I really, really, really hope Taco offers the 'Bee with more of their pump ends. I'd love to see a larger version (somewhere between a 0010 and 0014) and a little one (similar to a 006) which could modulate down even below the 003 range.
@ November 17, 2013 2:47 PM in monofloBumble Bee is too big (008 equivalent curve) and Taco does not offer the VDT in sizes smaller than an 007 (also too big.)
I would use a 1/2" Taco iSeries-R valve followed by one of the itsy bitsy ecocirc vario pumps. No need for a stat unless you want a high limit -- just tweak the reset ratio and pump speed until you get a comfortable bathroom and forget about it.
Towel warmers work best on the higher temp loop. No need for controls there other than the manual valve they come with.
@ November 17, 2013 2:32 PM in Skimming without a skim porthttp://www.rhomarwater.com/media/W-9150.pdf might be worth considering.
@ November 17, 2013 12:14 PM in Multi temp loops questionhttp://radiantengineering.com/productsthermofin/ has two links to Sigenthaler articles that are worth the few minutes it will take to read them.
Quote from the second link:
Does Plateless Have Any Place?
In the interest of fairness, yes it does. Tubing stapled at 8-inch centers directly to the bottom of a wood subfloor can provide limited heat output sufficient for floor warming, with the balance of the load handled by properly sized supplemental heating. I suggest limiting what you expect from such an installation to no more than 15 Btu/hr./sq. ft. with total floor resistances not exceeding 2.0 degrees F•hr.•sq. ft./Btu (including the subfloor). This limited output might be sufficient for a well-insulated home in a mild winter climate, but it’s not going to cut it for a ski chalet with 25-foot- high ceilings and a gable full of glass in Vermont.
My candid advice to newbies in hydronic radiant heating is to avoid plateless staple-up installations altogether. The possibilities for underperformance and the ensuing costly corrections are just not worth it.
@ November 17, 2013 11:52 AM in Another Twin System - 6" Drop Headerwhat about slowing down the fans? Ping me -- I might have something that will help.
@ November 17, 2013 11:43 AM in Multi temp loops questionis that due to lack of planning, or poor project management? Whatever the cause, I would make the case for plates and then get the customer to sign a waiver refusing what we recommended.
Then tear down those ridiculous blocks and staple the tubing directly to the subfloor. Even cheesy homebrew aluminum sheetmetal is better than nothing. Insulate right up to the tubing and you will reduce the required water temp significantly. Watch out for spray foam as can have compatibility issues with tubing and/or fittings and has a nasty tendency to expand between them and the subfloor.
I'd put the higher temp zone on the primary, direct piped from the boiler and then mix down to the slab from that. Slab supply should also come after the high temp zone.
@ November 16, 2013 12:03 PM in Viessmannthat sales of the new B2HA and 222-F lines will be quite good.
@ November 16, 2013 11:00 AM in monofloGreat description -- I've been wondering the same thing for awhile now. More importantly, why clean them up improperly when you know better? It just tarnishes the reputation you've worked years to build.
The hardest lesson I had to learn was when (and how) to say "no" when the job (or the customer's expectations) were not not a good fit for me. My income nearly doubled the next year.
@ November 16, 2013 10:53 AM in Multi temp loops questionis a really bad idea -- especially when you have an embedded tube slab in the same house.
Has anyone done a room-by-room heat loss? Where did you get the 120ºF number for the slab?
@ November 15, 2013 10:26 PM in What unit to use with panel rads and sidearmDo you have a drawing you can share? Optimal boiler selection depends on system layout, piping, and temps.
@ November 15, 2013 5:36 PM in Multi-unit house Electric Radiant Floor or Forced Air/Gas?a heat pump produces 2-3 kW of heat for every kW of electricity that it consumes. The exact number depends on the particular heat pump (more expensive models generally have higher efficiency) and the outdoor air temperature at the time.
@ November 15, 2013 5:31 PM in What unit to use with panel rads and sidearmget the system design right. http://www.caleffi.us/en_US/caleffi/Details/Magazines/pdf/idronics_10_us.pdf will help.
@ November 14, 2013 11:11 PM in Multi-unit house Electric Radiant Floor or Forced Air/Gas?and the owner of this rental property places some value on ROI, I would probably recommend a multi-head ductless mini-split like the Mitsubishi CITY MULTI, the Daikin VRV, or the Fujitsu Halcyon.