Joined on November 26, 2011
Last Post on December 8, 2013
@ July 24, 2012 2:17 PM in Pipe relining procedures questions.Looks like there are now heads as small as 3/4" http://www.footagetools.com/brochures/wedge.htm
@ July 24, 2012 11:20 AM in Pipe relining procedures questions.might preclude trenchless - I've never seen one that small, but maybe they exist. Bursting the old pipe and replacing with welded HDPE provides the most reliable service IME, but of course temperatures are limited with HDPE.
@ July 22, 2012 11:55 AM in repiping old radiant boilerhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ball_valve
@ July 22, 2012 11:52 AM in repiping old radiant boilerThe Taco valve is a modified ball design - note the venturi. Belimo does this with a special characterizing disc with geometry that varies depending on the Cv rating of the valve (see PDF below.)
The Caleffit valve uses a globe design.
@ July 21, 2012 6:40 PM in Is this OK? Service bypass for radiatorsShould be "pumping away" from the expansion tank, which almost always puts them on the supply side of distribution loops.
@ July 21, 2012 5:36 PM in repiping old radiant boilerare an application, not a valve type per se. Gate valves and unmodified ball valves are particularly unsuited to the task, but a number of other configurations can work.
They are not particularly expensive - in fact, a globe valve usually costs less than a ball valve of equivalent Cv.
@ July 21, 2012 3:54 PM in How does humidity effect the condenserFantastic as long as it's used in the right climate (Denver of course) for the right application. Precooling of turbine inlet air is a huge win for power plants. Integrating direct evaporative precooling with refrigerated air does add some work for the coil (removing the moisture that was introduced by the precooler.) An indirect evaporative precooler gets around this at the expense of some efficiency and cost when compared with direct evap.
BTW, both Premier and Spec-Air both make excellent products and have plenty of in-house expertise.
@ July 21, 2012 3:37 PM in 440 volt run capacitorsThe capacitance value (read in µF) needs to match the old one.
The voltage rating is a maximum limit for the cap, so using higher voltage cap is fine, but lower is not. Remember that an AC cap has to handle peak voltage and not just RMS.
@ July 21, 2012 3:31 PM in repiping old radiant boilerAllow you to adjust the friction (head) in each branch so that each emitter gets the right amount of flow and the space ends up evenly heated. The pressure drop (differential pressure across the valve) can be read with the little gauges on some models of manifold. These are usually used to balance loop flows in a radiant floor or ceiling installation (with 100-300 foot loops of tubing as the emitters.) Assuming the radiator sizing is anywhere near sane and that the branch lines feeding them are not radically different in length (like 20 feet versus 200 feet) TRVs at the radiator should be adequate. Shut-off valves on the branches will come in handy during fill/purge and for eventual maintenance needs.
@ July 20, 2012 2:49 PM in Older Heat Timer Box vs. New Jazzed up EMS BoxUnless you install a whole bunch of motorized valves, the EMS will not be able to do much anyway. While it would be nice to have the logging and alarming capabilities, they're hardly going to justify the cost involved.
Adding a few TRVs and fixing any venting issues might make sense.
Not sure if the Heat-Timer is doing ODR?
@ July 20, 2012 2:19 PM in Older Heat Timer Box vs. New Jazzed up EMS BoxWhat else besides space heat would the proposed EMS have control of?
@ July 19, 2012 11:00 AM in Foreclosure Questions / Checklist?Having worked on a lot of old houses (since the mid-'70s) I have to say that personally, I prefer most houses built before about 1950 to most anything built since. The exception would be a few very high end custom jobs and a couple of hand-built little places by finish carpenters for their own use. The beauty that comes from old (growth) wood worked by a real craftsman is simply not affordable today by anyone other than the uber-wealthy.
That said, you do need to know what you are getting into before you take one on, and it sounds like you're starting the research. My advice would be to start with a good heat loss calc and then take a hard look at properly insulating both the walls and the attic. This will significantly reduce the costs of both buying and owning the HVAC system and will provide by far the best return on your dollars. Then look at heating and cooling options and try not to give in to the ductwork.
@ July 15, 2012 11:15 AM in Major renovation -Had to look those up - far more choices over on the other side of the pond (where TRVs are the norm rather than the exception) http://www.screwfix.com/c/heating-plumbing/trvs/cat831012 I've never seen Drayton here but it looks like they're owned by Invensys - might be worth asking them.
@ July 14, 2012 12:15 PM in Replacing Propane Cu PipingIs indeed tricky stuff, but we can all learn from the century of experience our communications and power distribution industries have under their belts. Quality grounding is paramount, and literally everything metallic is bonded together and into the grounding electrode system -- at multiple points. If you ever get the chance to tour an electrical substation or a communications site that has a tower, ask them how they deal with lightning. It's quite informative.
For anyone interested in learning more, an excellent tutorial and reference is available free (courtesy of the US Army) http://armypubs.army.mil/eng/DR_pubs/dr_a/pdf/tm5_690.pdf
NFPA 780 is the 'official' standard, but few jurisdictions actively enforce it. The Army manual covers both the theory and the practice quite well.
@ July 13, 2012 10:14 AM in Major renovation -The relative humidity at the site must not go below
40% and cannot exceed 50%.
That should work out just great for buildings with precision climate controls (like data centers and museums.)
Forget about the southwest...
@ July 13, 2012 1:00 AM in Major renovation -and I'm really glad I don't have to depend on them. I do have to depend on trucking companies, and you'd think they'd eventually grow tired of paying out claims.
@ July 12, 2012 3:38 PM in Major renovation -I've installed hundreds and the only real issue I've had is freight damage by clueless trucking companies.
@ July 12, 2012 11:21 AM in low voltage indication on our lochinvar knight boilerYour boiler's control board has enough capacitance in its power supply to not be affected my a momentary interruption of supply current.
@ July 12, 2012 10:47 AM in Adding a steam/water radiator to existing baseboardDan has a number of books that go into detail on the ways our forbears designed and sized their systems. Suffice it to say that they used a number for formulas and charts which got the job done for the buildings and technology of the time. Really.
While we now have far more tools available to us both in terms of system design/sizing and system installation/control, America is in the unfortunate situation where only a minority of our practicing professionals truly understand how to use them.
A proper heat loss calculation is essential before you move forward. It's not that hard to do.
@ July 12, 2012 10:35 AM in Major renovation -sounds like he could probably use an update on current radiant heating technology. Low mass dry floor systems from Uponor, WarmBoard, and the like are faster to install and generally work better than a wet pour. Insulation goes underneath the subfloor with the heating system sandwiched between it and the hardwood.
You need a good radiant contractor (or a manufacturers' rep) to put a proper design together and then let them talk to your floor guy.
@ July 10, 2012 3:38 PM in Potable radiant versus non pressurizedIf you could guarantee that the fluid stayed at or above 140F this might work, but 140F and floor heat really don't mix. Isolate the radiant heat, use an ODR-controlled mixing valve and all is good.
@ July 10, 2012 11:05 AM in low voltage indication on our lochinvar knight boilerBe careful with putting boiler controls on a UPS. Some of them are sensitive to the so-called "modified sinewave" power the majority of UPSes provide when running on battery.
If the glitches are very short, a power conditioner might do the trick. This is not a "surge protector" you get at the home center or a computer place, but a big heavy beast made of copper and iron which will actually condition 60 Hz power properly. You can find Oneac CB or CC series units for next to nothing on eBay if you're patient.