Joined on December 15, 2011
Last Post on February 19, 2014
@ February 19, 2014 4:22 PM in Looking for book recommendations!You should buy Dan's combo package of 'hot water' books. Will give you a solid base, if you need more info past those reads then John's book is fantastic... But my personal opinion is that going through Dan's books first will allow a layman to navigate John's book with much better efficiency. Just my opinion.
@ February 9, 2014 11:18 AM in How, exactly doesJust found this on there I/O manual… This was the part I was curious on. I guess it has something similar to the CMOS in a PC that will 'remember' settings.
"Zone panel control applications — when there is a call for heat and power has been sent to the Alpha pump, the Alpha will remember and restart from the last duty point and hydraulic mode."
@ February 9, 2014 8:53 AM in How, exactly doesHow exactly can you give this pump constant power if you say, wish to wire it to a Switching relay? For instance you wish to use this delta P circ to supply a manifold of TRV supplied panel radiators? This way the pump works ideally with the fluctuating opening and closing of the various TRV's. But if you have no heat call or the indirect takes priority and shuts down the power to this pump, wouldn't all it's data be lost?
Sorry or do I have it all wrong? So would this particular Circ only be working in all its glory in a constant circulation style system?
@ January 14, 2014 8:49 AM in ManifoldsHotRod I watched one. of the YouTube videos on the manifolds... Do you have a link or manufacturer name that makes the snap on style thermometers you'd demonstrated in the video. That look sweet... I cannot find much in my area of the world so I need to source a lot of this type of thing myself. Sorry if I slightly hijacked this thread, but I figured anymore interested in manifolds would like that little temp gauges.
@ January 14, 2014 8:44 AM in dwv check valveIs there a check valve that would work for washing machine standpipe. Is there one that would be suitable for the vertical discharge portion of the standpipe? Would a spring loaded even open? Or is the horizontal portion of the trap arm the only acceptable for a check valve?
@ October 19, 2013 6:30 PM in Sink waste and overflow assembly?I believe bacteria billed up in the overflow is the issue. If your job/home is being inspected a lot of European and other import products such as the one you are showing may not be a certified product. In which case the inspector may not allow you to pass plumbing inspection as long as said product is still installed.
@ September 24, 2013 9:04 AM in System designMonitron II by Slant/Fin
No lwco requirement. I meant to say flow switch.
It is three series loop zones piped in parallel.
@ September 23, 2013 9:00 PM in System designI've seen a few different theory's that are all in the same ballpark. But what do you guys recommend for estimating head loss here? Do you like the idea of length X 1.5 X .04?
Right now the three zone I'm tying into are all 3/4" and mostly buried, if I got back on location I could probably make a very good guess at home many elbows and are buried in the floors. But currently it's 3 zones that all loop the perimeters of the house; one on each level. So it's basically 120 feet perimeter tubing + some elbows and some up and downs around doorways + risers to and from the basement.
Also can I get a little nudge in the right direction for establishing 'my system curve' so I can pick the best pump for the job.
@ September 23, 2013 3:50 PM in System designI need to put a need mechanical room at the end of this week. There was a big oil spill and they just have the cement poured so in two days he'll be looking to have his electrical upgrade done (insurance company) and wants the heating to be put back with an electric boiler.
Here's the stats:
Zone 1: 18700
Zone 2: 19100
Zone 3: 20500
I was going to go with zone valves, a 1" main trunk, with 1"X.75" tee's for the zone valve headers. I'll try and attach a little sketch. This is a Slant/Fin Boiler. There specs call for a bypass line, can anyone comment if that is totally necessary? If so what is the reasoning? Does the boiler heat up and turn on the circulator with a low limit is reach, and this bypass prevents the circ from pumping again 3 closed zone valves?
In my sketch I'd left out the bypass loop, and the low water cut-off, where would be the best placement for that?
@ September 21, 2013 3:36 PM in indirect or direct electric resistanceI need to replace an oil boiler w/ tankless coil. The customer is very set on going with an electric wall hung boiler for the setup, likely a Slant/Fin. Is an indirect more efficient than an electric hot water tank? His new boiler will be off electricity anyway so in short the questions is does he add another breaker to the panel and put in electric HWT or use an electric indirect?
@ September 9, 2013 1:13 PM in below slab floor drainsThat is a 2" drain which means that there will be a vent take off required within 8' of that in some form, be it individual, wet....
@ September 9, 2013 1:05 PM in Kitec Tubing and fittings?I have seen failure on Hydronic systems here in NL, Canada. Insurance companies wont offer home insurance to anyone with the pipe in the home any more. I have only ever seen Kitec installed on one DW system ever in these parts. I have been on several systems where the hydronics had to be re-pipe before sale of a house. And I have witness many leaks on the pipe and fittings. Compression pex-al-pex, crimp pex-al-pex, cheap compression generic. So in my experience this is not a DW only problem.
@ September 3, 2013 5:51 PM in below slab floor drainsUp here a 3" P-Trap could be as far as 12' from its drain connection and not require a vent.
@ July 18, 2013 12:30 PM in ideasI'm curious how some of you guys would attack this system.
Owner will want in slab for the basement, staple up under washrooms and kitchen (all tiled floors), cast iron column heaters in porches/mudroom and baseboard for all other carpet/wooden floored rooms.
Would you do seperate manifolds for each style that is supplied with its own mixing valve for the different temperatures? And then have each heater (or loop) fitted with an actuator?
Or are there some nice control / valve setups that will keep this system from becoming too complicated?
Essentially I'm trying to get some input as to how I can keep this boiler room as neat and tidy as possible.
Also when do a heatloss I have a question. Say I come up with 75K and want to add an indirect using priority control does that mean I do not have to add the BTU for the indirect to the overall heat loss when sizing the boiler?
@ July 16, 2013 12:51 PM in underground pipingFor underground piping how much cover/concrete is appropriate to place on top of an ABS dwv system? I couldn't find any specific answers. Is there an exact answer? I've seen pipes in the past gradually rise up until then are actually above the concrete (this was cast iron in some very old houses).
I'll reiterate since I'm often long winded - what's the code on covering underground horizontal dwv?
@ April 28, 2013 1:35 PM in Preferred domestic recirc pipingWhy is it that not many of the diagrams use the 3rd drain tapping on the water tank for the recirc line? ie. Remove drain, add tee, add drain and recirc line.
Is this a less practical way from an engineering standpoint? And how would you consider installing a recirc that doesn't involve a tempering valve?
@ April 28, 2013 11:26 AM in Backflow preventer with ventHas anyone posting on this topic become AWWA certified for backflow prevention testing? These items do 'FAIL' and that is why they require annual testing forever. If there is anything feeding the system other than potable water then the BF device has to be RP (or RPZ as some have referred to them) I remember my plumbing instructor telling us about going to a house call in the '80s where the lady complain the tap water was a greenish colour. Not to mention the countless ones we hear about from the AWWA course agenda.
Also if there is a drip on the RP's vent that doesn't mean it is failed completely. There are multiple security measures put into these devices, a drip on the vent could mean the relief port opened for an acceptable reason and is in need of repair. And even if that is failing and the most downstream check is failing, it doesn't mean that the most upstream check isn't still functioning 100% and protecting the household and municipal supply from contaminations.
@ April 20, 2013 12:40 PM in Heat Loss Software PreferenceI know there have been posts about this before, but the products available are always changing, updating, and even new ones are becoming available.
What free, if any, do you guys prefer and trust for doing your 'professional' heat loss calculations?
I hope some of you guys will shed some light on what you think works best and maybe even throw in a little comment.
Thanks so much for your inputs.
@ April 2, 2013 8:43 PM in how to determin if I can remove a monoflo systemBasically where should I start? I love heating and reading on it (plumbing by trade) but I rarely get to put it to practice so most of the time I just sit around here reading, listening, learning.
I have a monflo system that has a 1.5" truck that leaves the boiler for 20'.
It goes down to 4 3/4" lines, 2 go north and 2 south and then cover the perimeter of the house. 1 of each feeds heaters on the main floor and 1 of each feeds heaters on the 2nd floor. when they loop back to the boiler each set tees together and pipes through a zone valve for control (one for each floor totaling 2). The whole point of the job is maximum headroom in the basement. If I raise the 3/4" lines in the joist bays the monoflo tees will be on their sides with the branches lying parallel to the floor. Should they always be graded upward or downward in the direction of the risers? What's the easiest way to determine if the 1.5" line is a requiorement. I'm going to assume that one upon a time there was a castiron boiler with a single pipe monoflo doing one loop around the basement. I'd guess that it was cut back to 20' whenever the electric boiler was install and at the same time they put in the split monoflo loop and added the zone valves.
HTU's are 9"BB cast rads and 4 20"H section rads all piped with 1/2" risers. I have access to all the risers in the basement still and the home owner (rental property) wants to maintain just 2 zones. Could I just setup a primary loop (acceptabel practice on an electric boiler??) and then have two manifolds that have all the heaters home ran in 1/2 hePex? Each manifold could be zoned with a circulator or zone valve.
What's my best way 'out of' this one'?
If I decided to manifold, where should I start with determining the sizes? I know heat loss with probably be the first proposed idea, but I know the owner will not be interested in adding or removing any HTU's. He claims it works and wants to just clear up the pipes in the basement. Could I take the current BTU output of the current heaters and base my pipe sizes on that?
Also he wants all the copper taken out and put back new or replaced with pex. I'm not overly interested in soldering up a dozen or more monoflo tees with pex fittings. I feel like the cost of the manifolds and that type of install would bring down the labour cost and it'd be a bit nicer of a system in the end. Any thoughts or comments are appreciatively accepted. And if you made it this far thank you very much for reading through my mess. Ha
@ April 1, 2013 9:22 PM in Got a Favorite ways to get ride of monoflo systems?I've come across an old system that has a single loop in the basement that leaves very little head room. Do you guys have a favorite way to update this type system? Manifold, does anyone ever just re-pipe the monoflo system and put the single pipe loop through the floor joists? Just trying to get the ball rolling and what others like to do here. I'm going to look at the system myself tomorrow to see what type of emitters it has, how many, how many, etc.
Thanks to anyone that took the time to read this and double thanks should anyone reply.
@ February 14, 2013 8:49 PM in Preferred domestic recirc pipingSo I'm just curious how you guys like to pipe your domestic recirc lines. ie. two checks and and fee on the cold inlet, or circ in bottom drain port, etc. is there one setup that is "engineered approved"? Do you always use expansion tanks? I'm really just interested in any "experienced" practices you guys are using.
@ October 21, 2012 10:36 AM in If you were to build today...If you guys were to build today, how would you do it? How would you 'fuel' your system, how would you transfer your heat, and how would you do your air conditioning. I know my mind changes every time I read a new article somewhere. Below are my current local fuel charges and natural gas isn't an option. Electricity could be as high as 17 or even more within the next 5 years (all dependant on a provincially proposed hydro mega project) I'd like to think in a perfect world I'd have radiant heat in-slab and overpours on the wood floors and radiant cooling in the ceilings... but radiant cooling does scare me a little but again this is just my thinking... I'm realistically 2-4 years from building this house that I'll be in for 15-20 years. It's Sunday and I had some downtime so I thought I'd pick the brains of the pro's and see what you guys would do if you were to build for yourself today.
I have to also be honest I'm all about cutting down the monthly bills too... up front cost vs month to month I'm all about blowing it all up front.
I must also say I put in a mini-split for cooling and heating sub in my current home and I would totally consider radiant in-floor every where with a mini-split for cooling if people thought that was the best option. Or even in-slab and forced air throughout the rest of the house would be acceptable. Anyway I will stop rambling and see where this ball rolls with the rest of your guys.
This are my local current prices today.
Furnace Oil - 103.31
Electricity - 11.171 ¢ per kWh
Propane - 69.60