Joined on January 10, 2012
Last Post on March 5, 2014
@ March 5, 2014 5:21 PM in Why not a cut in of zero?I've just been reading my 2nd copy of the Lost Art, for at least the 3rd time. On pages 13 & 14 "The Man" discusses setting the pressuretrol "for good system operation, the cut-in setting of the pressuretrol should never be less than twice the system pressure drop. This is a safety factor & it means that in our example building we only have to have 1/2psi (or 8 ounces) at the boiler to get steam to the furthest radiator".
@ March 4, 2014 2:30 PM in Honeywell Zone Valve V8043 wiringIce,
I interpreted him saying "he had 2 transformers" as being separate transformers, but you could be right as there are 2 transformers in the 6 zone panels.
@ March 4, 2014 8:03 AM in Honeywell Zone Valve V8043 wiringHow about investing in one of the several out there zone valve relay panels? With 6 zones it would make a much simpler neater job. You wouldn't even need to use the zone valve end switches if you chose not to.
Timmie, go over your last post would you?
@ February 15, 2014 3:38 PM in pilot relight control or gas valve?Timmie,
I know you have been busy, looking at your classes this last week. I appreciate you taking the time to re-explain the W/R Resistor situation. I wanted to get your take on it. I'll file this away along with your explanation of the workings of the cycle pilot system.
@ February 12, 2014 1:42 PM in DHW Indirect Air EliminationIf I might suggest - since you mentioned adding an air scoop. I would re pipe it with a microbubble air separator instead of a scoop. There are several on the market. They create a low pressure zone and along with high temperature will allow entrained air to come out of suspension and be removed from the system, a can vent cannot remove air in suspension.
It's been my experience that once you initially purge the system and start circulation the separator will take care of the rest. Within one day in normal circumstances the system will be air free.
Ice is right - if you know what you're doing - pipe um right, start um right and air becomes a no issue.
@ February 11, 2014 8:12 AM in pilot relight control or gas valve?Timmie,
great explanation of the operation of the W/R cycle pilot gas system. Utica used these for some time so we worked on alot of them. Your description brought back many memories. There was an earlier thread (can't find it) that discussed this where you went into the use of the resistor to go around the defective pressure switch. Could you review your findings on that issue if you have a moment so I can file it away with this thread? I'm aware that this caused some difficulties, can't remember what you said. Thanks
@ February 8, 2014 10:57 AM in Oil lines frozen helpBoy Ice - great stories - you missed your calling,you should have been a writer. to bad we couldn't get together for a cocktail, sure would be fun to rehash old memories.
I'm a slow typer or I'd try to relate some stories my self. Talk about tools,once had an account that had a pet racoon living in the cellar. He was harmless but, every call you made there he'd sneek around behind you and steal your bright colored tools & run up in the rafters with them. Had to get the owner to retrieve them.
@ February 7, 2014 11:00 AM in Oil lines frozen helpIce,
I too had the same nightmares! I used to carry a short broom handle whittled to a point right with me when I was forced into those situations. If it broke off I could jam the broomstick in to slow down the flow enough to figure out my next move.
Actually came in handy once years ago, An oil driver accidentally stepped on the valve on the bottom of an old "end outlet" tank which was buried in the snow. We carried portable radios then and the call came over that he was in trouble. As luck would have it I was just around the corner, there he was with his hand over the outlet trying to stem the flow. It was in the low teens that day and he got severe frostbite out of it. But the old broomstick came in handy.
@ February 6, 2014 1:51 PM in remove insulation on one pipeAs Dan has said, "Steam is just a gas desperately trying to become a liquid". As I understand it the dead men insulated the steam carrying pipes not to stop them from giving off heat, but, to keep the steam from condensing for as long as they could. In an ideal world not till the steam got to the radiation.
@ February 6, 2014 12:45 PM in Proper AFG head?Right on on the AFG II! I hated that burner. I think that the one thing I noticed after we were introduced to the Reillos' (1982) was the fact they used interrupted ignition & an extremely short safety timing. Beckett refused to get on board for a very long time on both issues, only going to it relatively recently. Probably thanks to Honeywell controls. The result was the electrodes burned back widening the gap which in turn caused fouling of the head.
I,m also a huge believer in post purge. I incorporated this into my Thermopride/BF-3 furnace & my Bock/AFG II water heater & my fouled heads disappeared
As far as comparing burners - I think it becomes what you are used to. We hated Carlin 100/200 CRDs. Probably due to the fact they might not have been a good match for the Utica Ace/Starfire series boilers. Set up to there specs, they fouled every time. Again at the time we were not used to them, didn't see enough of them over here to become comfortable with them. Therefore we never gave the EZ Pro a chance.
We really are Reillo people although I must say the Buderus direct vent with the BF 3 never performed well - sooted up the end cone & combustion head every time. It was never there equipment though. They blamed it on "cold" oil,recirculation of combustion gases etc. Even if you followed all installation & set up proceedures to the letter of the law.
Just my 2 cents. John Pughe
@ February 5, 2014 12:40 PM in Proper AFG head?Good point Icesailer. The Beckett OEM set up guide list the following for the New Yorker FR122/AFG
Head type F-6
Static plate 3-3/8
Nozzle 1.10 x 80*A
Pump pressure #100 psi
They also show two other option using the V1-0 or the L1 head types using a .90 nozzle @ 140# psi, which you would like better. However, they don't show a derating kit. Utica used to offer derating kits for there Starfire series with a new head,static plate & nozzle. I
@ February 4, 2014 3:54 PM in Oil to Gas conversionBeen doing this stuff for over 50 years, been coming to this site a long time, retired now so I have more time to come here. It never ceases to amaze me as to the wealth of knowledge and the time these guys are willing to spend GIVING advice to questions presented here.
Don't know Billy, but unless you could get Dan himself, Steamhead, JStar & Jamie Hall are the best. (I'm sure I've left someone or or more out). They are dedicated students of steam and there advice is priceless in this dying art!
@ February 4, 2014 3:26 PM in Proper AFG head?First, nozzles are rated at 100# pressure. I assume you are talking about the AFG burner. The AFG could be set for a higher pump pressure but I doubt it. For instance a 1.00 GPH nozzle = 1.00GPH @ 100#, at 140# it would give you 1.18 GPH.
The F-6 head has a GPH range .85 to 1.65 GPH. The F-3 head - .75 to 1.25 GPH. You are on the bottom end of the F-6 head. I would probably select the F-3 head myself for your application. Just my 2 cents.
Perhaps Icesailor will chime in on this even though he's not a big fan of this burner.
@ February 3, 2014 5:40 PM in RisersHi Guys,
Just wondering what your guys take on using one riser instead of two. The job I am looking at has just one riser in use even though the boiler in question has provisions for an additional riser. In the manufacturers instructions they say that for this model one riser is acceptable. I've run the velocity calculations and it does fall within acceptable guidelines (Lost Art charts). However, just because its OK doesn't mean you HAVE to do it that way. I've always been of the belief that "if they give you two - USE UM"!. I just feel it gives you a More even distribution of the steam as it leaves the boiler. Years ago we were loosing the section opposite the riser (on this model by the way) on some installations. In the "Lost Art" Dan describes what I thing was going on. Just my 2 cents.
@ February 2, 2014 12:07 PM in Frozen fuel oil lineIce (that O.K.?) Utica, NY - Thawing today, feels like a heat wave compared to last week, (-20*). 79* - Wow sure wish I was there.
@ February 2, 2014 11:30 AM in Frozen fuel oil lineYea Ice - then you'd get a little oil on those band aids and away they'd go!
Mark, Wish I was so smart. I used to think -" there's got to be a better way" when I was crawling around under those trailers (whops - "mobile homes") in the middle of the nite with a torch. Course they never froze in July.
@ February 2, 2014 9:38 AM in Frozen fuel oil lineI'm from upstate New York, pretty cold country. Rick, sure wish i'd used those gloves during my career, probably would have extended it. Now all I do is help out a "friend" or two now & then + work on my own. Wouldn't think of getting the old wrenches out without them.
By the way, do you or Icesailor (did) ever get thoughs nasty splits on the end of your fingers that won't heal? Sure don't miss those, bet we could start a new post on home remedies & stuff for curing those.
Years ago we used to "thin" the fuel (1/2 fuel oil & 1/2 Kero) on all outside above ground tanks. Course oil back then (60's) was only 15 cents/gal. Also,we'd usually come off the top with a duplex to keep the suction line off the bottom. Sorry for this old man's rambling.
@ January 30, 2014 3:52 PM in Frozen fuel oil lineSoot! - I hate that word! Great story Icesalor John
@ January 30, 2014 9:57 AM in Closely Spaced Tees - maybe not?Not to kill that former post that Rich referred to but, Rich's pictured showed it so clear. Just curious how you guys feel about Black Pipe being used in the make up water line. We have always used brass.