Joined on January 19, 2012
Last Post on March 11, 2014
@ February 20, 2014 4:49 PM in Scott's radiant heating projectScott,
You will understand the pipe sizing thing once you get the book.
Trv's will not balance your flow, they will make the rooms heat more evenly. Again the book will explain.
You could hide the pex tubing inside an oversized wood baseboard or crown molding. I hate to see it outside the heating envelope.
R2D2 is cute. You would save about 40% with properly sized panel radiator and a condensing boiler. Take that cute little guy and plant him in the front yard!
Be sure to stock up on Tylenol, Modern Hydronic Heating may make your head hurt.
@ February 20, 2014 3:23 PM in Scott's radiant heating projectGood call on the book.
A home run or reverse return system is going to be much easier to balance.
I would not even consider copper especially on a remodel. You can run hepex or pex-al-pex cheaper and easier.In a homerun system you would likely use 1/2" or even 3/8" lines. Maybe you could hide the behind a baseboard.
You should replace the boiler especially if you are selling the home. That 50 year old R2D2 unit is going to cost you much more than $5k once the home inspector makes his report. A new high efficient heat system is a great selling point.
@ February 20, 2014 11:13 AM in Cost to heat different temps?A condensing boiler will run most efficiently at lower water temps. You will also have less heatloss through piping and venting at lower temps.
The goal of you your ODR is to run the boiler at the lowest temp possible. This can be accomplished looking at the output of your baseboards at different water temps and matching that to the heat loss of the home at the same outdoor temps.
As soon as you put a temperature setback in the equation, you have to raise the boiler water temp so that the boiler is putting out enough energy to increase the temp in the home rather than just maintaining. This reduces the efficiency of the boiler.
Short term setbacks will not save energy and should only be used if comfort is the goal.
Set it and forget it.
@ February 20, 2014 12:16 AM in Looking for book recommendations!You are looking for Modern Hydronic Heating. It has enough formulas to make your eyes glaze over. If you want to take it one step further, John is doing a 10 week online course that follows the book.
I would also second the recommendation on Ihydronics.
John Barba at Taco's "Flow Pro University" has some great free courses.
@ February 19, 2014 2:32 PM in AquastatThere are many types of aquastat that will work. Here is a common one that will strap on the pipe. http://www.pexsupply.com/Honeywell-L6006C1018-High-or-Low-Limit-Circulator-Strap-On-Aquastat-65-200F-range-5-30F-Adj-Differential-1738000-p
Keep in mind that an aquastat is just a switch. It does not provide power. As long as it is rated for the voltage and amperage you are using, it will work.
@ February 19, 2014 2:17 PM in Alpine Gas Boiler Venting ProblemThe 12" number should be considered a bare minimum, get much more separation if you can. You should also check the manufactures drawing and be sure that all other clearances on the exterior of the building are being observed. It sounds like you have a cross contamination between the exhaust and intake which is a very bad thing. Post a picture if you are unsure.
The boiler will burn a bit differently with the door open verses closed. Unless you have a very long combustion air run, I do not think the flame would go from blue to orange. Your installer should have performed a combustion analysis on the boiler when they started it up. The should have a printout to prove it. This assures that the boiler is tuned for peak performance and is helpful for warranty and troubleshooting issue down the road.
Insist on a combustion analysis.
Hopefully, when you resolve the first 2 problems the smell will go away. The boiler should not smell.
@ February 18, 2014 12:43 AM in Short Cycling of heating...Is the boiler cycling several times an hour or is the t-stat calling several times an hour?
What type of radiators?
What type of t-stat?
@ February 17, 2014 10:06 AM in is it worth converting from oil to propane ?www.eia.gov/neic/experts/heatcalc.xls
Use this spreadsheet to get your answer.
Who knows, maybe electric would be cheaper
@ February 16, 2014 8:32 AM in Which of these two setbacks is more economical?Why do you want to change the heating curve?Do the heat loss characteristics of the building change at night?
Why not just leave the t-stat and curve alone? That would be efficient.
@ February 15, 2014 5:09 PM in Combustion analysis results questionAre the burners clean?
How is the manifold pressure?
@ February 15, 2014 4:47 PM in Running Out of Hot Water With a Megastor -40You really need to post pictures of this one. Get one where you can see all the piping in the boiler room.
My guess is that you are missing a check valve or two and the heat is stealing energy from the DHW
@ February 14, 2014 5:20 PM in 007 CAPAll right Chris, you got me.
What the $%^$#% is a Portuguese Chandelier.
@ February 14, 2014 5:17 PM in Jumper thermostat contacts - ZoneTrol IIT-stats are switches.
Some will steal a little power to power their own display.
Older ones have anticipators that draw energy in order to heat the thermostat slightly in order to anticipate the room warming.
Unless they are part sophisticated control system, t-stats are first and foremost, switches.
@ February 14, 2014 5:06 PM in 4 zone switching relay or 6 zone switching relayI assume you are working with the alpine from your earlier post.
Your DHW should be controlled by the boiler with it's own circ.
The AC is a completely different system.
That leaves you with 3 zones. I would use one ecm circ and zone valves. Either way you are only controlling 3 things so you don't need a 6 zone controller.
@ February 13, 2014 6:36 PM in Jumper thermostat contacts - ZoneTrol IIYou won't hurt anything with a jumper.It is designed for a t-stat which is a simple switch.
@ February 10, 2014 10:40 AM in Tekmar Second Stage Heating ProblemI would talk to Tekmar about it. You might start with your local rep.
Even if they just give you a partial credit, it would be worth your effort.
@ February 10, 2014 10:24 AM in Tekmar Second Stage Heating ProblemIt think that the 543 is not going to get you there. It seems like it was somewhat of a mistake on tekmar's part
I would buy a 553 and set the differential as you see fit.
Your 543 is not considering the slow response time of h1 and is turning on h2 too quickly.
@ February 8, 2014 12:32 AM in Tekmar Second Stage Heating ProblemI think your issue is in the 543. Have you checked the "terminal units" setting for stage 1 and 2?
It would be nice if you could set the differential between the stages. The newer 553 allows it. This would certainly fix the issue.
The install is very pretty. You should send a picture to Grundfos, they would be very pleased.
Have you spoken with tech support?
Best of luck
@ February 6, 2014 7:41 PM in Flue gas due point questionThis came up in a post a while back.
Although any flue gas condensation is not ideal, If the boiler has has the opportunity to come up to full temp and dry out the flue before the heating cycle is over, the damage is minimized. I your case, it sounds like you may get some condensation when the DHW demand starts but by the time the cycle ends things are pretty hot and dry.
In the example I cited, the boiler was short cycling leaving a wet flue every time. This , I believe was the cause of the flue corrosion.
@ February 6, 2014 7:25 PM in NORA is back!!!!There just needs to be a balance between regulation and free enterprise.
If the government stays completely out, we go back to the days when the Rockefellers and Standard Oil secretly cornered the entire oil market. During the same time the unregulated heating industry was exploding boilers at an incredible rate.
Too much regulation is stifling.
I for one am glad to see Nora funded.
Thank for the update Tim
@ February 6, 2014 7:12 PM in obstruction in baseboard hot water systemIt looks like you have the pressure under control.
The expansion tank over the boiler is not a bladder style,so you should not be leaving any air elimination devices open.
You should be able to manual bleed the radiator. The air eliminator in the attic should allow air to escape when you loosen the cap. Tighten the cap when you are done. It may be munged up and will not allow anything out, in which case you should replace it.
Is the circulator pumping towards or away from the expansion tank? This seems like a minor detail but is critically important when trying to get air out of a system.
@ February 6, 2014 11:38 AM in obstruction in baseboard hot water systemIce has you going in the right direction.
You really cannot even start this process until you have a functioning prv/fill valve and pressure gauge.
Pictures from farther back would help.