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Joined on January 19, 2012

Last Post on August 21, 2014

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@ July 17, 2014 12:51 AM in Constantly purging air in hydronic system

First off.
You need a check valve where the city water enters the system.The watts reducing valve you have is often sold with one attached.Yours does not have one.
The pressure reducing valve can be adjusted. You spin the nut under the lever. Chances are it should be in the 15# to 18# range. How high is it from the boiler to the highest radiator?
The expansion tank (yours is a bladder style) should be charged to the same pressure. You do this with a bike pump with the tank drained.
I do not hang pressure tanks below the air eliminator. Air eliminators also make great dirt separators. The dirt will sit on the bladder of the tank and shorten it's service life. Yours look good on the wall.
The expansion tank and fill valve do not have to be connected to the air eliminator. They are often done this way out of convenience.
The circulator can reside on the return side of the boiler, It just should not pump towards the expansion tank and prv.
The quickest way to solve your problem would be to install a tee between the return pipe and the boiler drain (hose connection) just above the circulator and tie the expansion tank and fill line in there. You could then leave the circ and air eliminator where they are.
Yes the the air eliminator would work a little better if it was installed in the area of slightly lower pressure behind the circulator, oh well...



@ July 15, 2014 11:31 PM in Hercules coal furnace--how much to ask our neighbor for it?

I would sell it as if was scrap. You will never have hard feelings that way. What does steel scrap for in your area? $.10 per pound?
What else are you going to do with it? It will go to a good home, or continue to rust in their yard.

No worries...

@ July 15, 2014 1:02 PM in Second guessing

I was checking my own sanity more than anything.....


@ July 15, 2014 9:20 AM in Second guessing

Wouldn't 12" centers be about 1,600 feet of tubing? It would be a little more for the manifolds but pretty close to a tube every foot. Certainly not 2,400 feet of tube in the floor.

Food color

@ July 15, 2014 8:50 AM in How Long

I think NBC has the right plan.
If the tube is presently full of water, you could put some food coloring in the new water so you can tell where you started.
If you have access to a utility locator, you can run a wire or a fish tape through the pipe and clamp the locator to that to determine the depth.


@ July 14, 2014 3:58 PM in Second guessing

Siggy's software puts your output at about 62K BTU or 39BTU/ft. at the 115 design temp.
That seems a little high but considering the insutarp (I agree it is crap) and the under insulated walls I think I would run with it unless you do a heat loss calc that tells you different.
Too much radiation is never a bad thing, particularly if you are running a condensing boiler.


@ July 14, 2014 2:05 PM in Second guessing

Are you saying you are heating a 1600 sq foot space with tubing at 9" centers or are there 2 floors?
What kind of underslab insulation?


@ July 13, 2014 12:29 AM in Getting into mod/con business

You seem to recognize the futility of the truck argument. Yet you hold onto this one.
How about getting together for a few hours of TIC TAC TOE?

I am just pointing out that you have a habit of hijacking threads in order to validate your selection of heating systems.

Start your own thread and start your own argument (again) I will gladly ignore it


@ July 12, 2014 11:47 PM in hydroniCad

I bought hydronicad recently. It does a great job with boiler piping.
I would l also would like to know what folks are using for loops and electrical drawings.
Loopcad seems to be popular.


@ July 12, 2014 11:41 PM in Getting into mod/con business

Why do you insist on turning every post into a defense of your purchase of a boiler or water heater or whatever it is?

The Brookfield study accurately represents the efficiency difference between mod/ cons and CI boilers using baseboard heat, not he best application for mod cons.

I think it is great that you are happy with your purchase.i personally would not use it for that application. Others on this forum agree.

Can you please let it rest?

Come back in 20 years and tell everyone how reliable it has been and how wrong we were.

This post had nothing to do with you or your water heater, nor does your banter add anything to the discussion.



@ July 11, 2014 2:11 PM in Mod/con poll. Installers only.

You can't simplify it quite that far.
There is a huge difference between a system designed to run on 180 degree water vs 120. How is it  zoned? What is the energy cost? How difficult is it to repipe the vent?
For some owners it would be an obvious answer 1 for others absolutely 2. For a handful of jobs it is truly a coin toss. Your job is to evaluate the job and make a recommendation.
Sorry about the rules

Agree to disagree

@ July 11, 2014 11:13 AM in Getting into mod/con business

None of this is a personal attack. Different people have different opinions. Everyone is wired differently and not everyone will come to the same conclusion when presented with the same facts. That's life...
It would be more productive to have a heated debate over what brand of truck you should drive.


@ July 11, 2014 2:27 AM in DHW configuration

It is great to see you are enjoying your retirement. I really am enjoying your posts I am just not sure how they pertain to the the original question.
What is it raining in Florida?

Tough one...

@ July 11, 2014 2:21 AM in Technician

The t-stat's connection to the air handler is though a communicating signal as is the air handler's connection to the heat pump. You won't be able to use those signals without a manufactures device or an advanced degree in controls.

You may be able to set a relay at the heat pump but it would require a wiring diagram, some brain damage and would likely  void the warantee.

Best ofliuck


@ July 10, 2014 4:40 PM in New Radiant System

The highest efficiency claimed on the website is 86%
Do you have specs on the boiler they are proposing? Unless they are providing you a government test rating like DOE rating, the numbers are likely BS.
Can you post the type of panel design they are proposing? If you use the staple up design they depict on their site you will never condense, it may not even heat. If you do an inslab or aluminum plate design you will easily condense.

I think you would be better off updating your steam system than doing a budget radiant install.

A solution....

@ July 9, 2014 9:11 AM in What do you think of this new product?

This looks like a solution looking for a problem.

Anyone who has stepped in a dogturd with bare feet would be disinclined to try this one.

I think I will stick with the plunger.


@ July 9, 2014 8:47 AM in DHW configuration

The first thing I would be looking at is your standby heat losses. Do you have an uninsulated recirc line? Maybe a bad case of gravity thermosyphoning?
You should not be seeing those kinds of cycles during times when no hot water is being used.

As far as adjustments go. You can manipulate the settings a great deal if you have a thermastatic mixing valve to stabilize the outlet temp and protect from scalding.You could for example turn the boiler on when the tank temp is at 120 and off when it hits 140.

The On/off differential will maximize the cycle length. Lowering the boiler temp during  a call for hot water will allow the boiler to condense during part of the DHW cycle. Without condensing, your 95+% boiler is just a 84% model.

The first step is to get control of the heat loss. I think that is where most of the waste is.


@ July 9, 2014 8:01 AM in New Radiant System

Just because a company builds a website and starts selling stuff, that does not mean it is done correctly.
Many of the details depicted on their website are flat out wrong.
I think buying a boiler like the inferno is a mistake. Sure it's less expensive. Taking a non condensing boiler and putting it in a low temp environment without proper controls is a recipe for failure.

I think you would be better off buying a quality condensing boiler and installing it per manufactures printed instructions. The suggestion of panel radiators with TRVs is a good one. You can't go wrong by running home runs to each one.

As far as AIM having a less expensive product.They are providing a lower quality product. If you take the cost of the cheapo boiler out of the picture, I seriously doubt they are any cheaper.I would heat with the water heater in your picture before I would consider an inferno.


@ July 8, 2014 10:55 PM in Jury Rules That CSST is a Defective Product

Was the line bonded?

No Way!

@ July 8, 2014 12:01 AM in New Radiant System

I quick look at the website says it all.

These guys are still pedaling Foil insulation and plateless staple up, it's like 1990 all over again.

What the heck it an Inferno boiler/water heater thing? Try buying parts for that one.

Their installation photos are hysterical. 300' lengths, no pressure test and spaghetti.
They certainly have enough circulators in their designs.

If you are serious about this as a DYI, get someone to do a real design based on your actual heat loss calc. Use a real modulating/condensing boiler. You will have to pay for the design, It is worth it.



@ July 2, 2014 10:28 PM in TT Smart 80 & Prestige Solo 110 Summer Gas Usage

Inside the cabinet, on top of the heat exchanger is a window where you can view the flame.
The boiler will sometimes get confused if the delta t is too tight between supply and return. Yours sounds pretty normal. Do you have a multi speed circ?


@ July 2, 2014 7:56 PM in TT Smart 80 & Prestige Solo 110 Summer Gas Usage

I believe that 0% is off. You could confirm by looking in the glass window on top of the exchanger.
What is the supply and return temp when it is at 0%. It sounds like the flow rate is not right
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