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Zman

Zman

Joined on January 19, 2012

Last Post on April 15, 2014

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Worth a try?

@ February 10, 2014 10:40 AM in Tekmar Second Stage Heating Problem

I would talk to Tekmar about it. You might start with your local rep.
Even if they just give you a partial credit, it would be worth your effort.
Carl

553

@ February 10, 2014 10:24 AM in Tekmar Second Stage Heating Problem

It think that the 543 is not going to get you there. It seems like it was somewhat of a mistake on tekmar's part
I would buy a 553 and set the differential as you see fit.
Your 543 is not considering the slow response time of h1 and is turning on h2 too quickly.
Carl

543

@ February 8, 2014 12:32 AM in Tekmar Second Stage Heating Problem

I think your issue is in the 543. Have you checked the "terminal units" setting for stage 1 and 2?
It would be nice if you could set the differential between the stages. The newer 553 allows it. This would certainly fix the issue.
The install is very pretty. You should send a picture to Grundfos, they would be very pleased.
Have you spoken with tech support?
Best of luck
Carl

Flue gas

@ February 6, 2014 7:41 PM in Flue gas due point question

This came up in a post a while back.
Although any flue gas condensation is not ideal, If the boiler has has the opportunity to come up to full temp and dry out the flue before the heating cycle is over, the damage is minimized. I your case, it sounds like you may get some condensation when the DHW demand starts but by the time the cycle ends things are pretty hot and dry.
In the example I cited, the boiler was short cycling leaving a wet flue every time. This , I believe was  the cause of the flue corrosion.

Carl

Balance

@ February 6, 2014 7:25 PM in NORA is back!!!!

There just needs to be a balance between regulation and free enterprise.
If the government stays completely out, we go back to the days when the Rockefellers and Standard Oil secretly cornered the entire oil market. During the same time the unregulated heating industry was exploding boilers at an incredible rate.
Too much regulation is stifling.
I for one am glad to see Nora funded.
Thank for the update Tim

Air

@ February 6, 2014 7:12 PM in obstruction in baseboard hot water system

It looks like you have the pressure under  control.
The expansion tank over the boiler is not a bladder style,so you should not be leaving any air elimination devices open.
You should be able to manual bleed the radiator. The air eliminator in the attic should allow air to escape when you loosen the cap. Tighten the cap when you are done. It may be munged up and will not allow anything out, in which case you should replace it.
Is the circulator pumping towards or away from the expansion tank? This seems like a minor detail but is critically important when trying to get air out of a system.
Carl

Air

@ February 6, 2014 11:38 AM in obstruction in baseboard hot water system

Ice has you going in the right direction.
You really cannot even start this process until you have a functioning prv/fill valve and pressure gauge.
Pictures from farther back would help.
Carl

Good question

@ February 5, 2014 11:14 PM in How, exactly does

The  Grundfos guys have told me that auto adapt only works if the circ is wired always on.
I have only tried it on radiant systems and was not happy with it. If a 1or 2 loop zone called, it would not respond at all. It is a little better with the check valve removed.
 I wire the alpha to the switch and run it in constant pressure mode. It works well that way.
I imagine it would work well in a constant circ system.
As far as how it works, I am not really sure.
Carl

Good topic

@ February 5, 2014 2:58 PM in Flue gas due point question

Nick,
On a cast iron boiler, I would be more concerned about condensation in the flue at the lower temps (unless it is stainless). The flue is a tough one because it depends on how long it is and weather or not it is run in a conditioned space. I have seen flues rot out on boilers with 160 degree return temps. The flues were mostly run in unconditioned attics. The boilers were oversized and running short cycles.

I think it was Gennedy that said that  you can tell if the flue is condensing by looking to see if the plume is detaching from the vent termination. This make sense to me although I am not sure if it is commonly accepted.

Bob,
It is my understanding that the utilities derate (add air) to the fuel in order to make appliances run more efficiently at altitude. Do you have information that contradicts this? I am genuinely interested, if my understanding is incorrect.

Carl

Better out than in!!!

@ February 5, 2014 2:40 PM in Triangle Tube Excellence condensate trap sediment

That looks a lot like the grounds found inside Govanni (sp) exchangers.
That is one of the things i like about the firetube design.
Thanks for the pics,
Carl

Contractor

@ February 5, 2014 11:19 AM in In-wall heaters for basement

It sounds like you need to get a HVAC contractor to have a look.
I would pursue the option of tying into the existing system first. The majority of furnaces are oversized to the actual heat loss and basements generally do not require a whole lot of heat. Registers from above will work just fine if done correctly.
Someone needs to do a heat  loss calc on the house and then check the capacities of the existing ducts. I would be surprised if it cannot be done.
Carl

Condensation

@ February 4, 2014 11:50 AM in Flue gas due point question

Are you trying to figure out when a condensing boiler will condense or when condensation will damage the flue?
As for the condensing boiler, it looks like a return water temp around 122.
The flue damage is more complicated.
This article may help. http://www.heatinghelp.com/files/posts/13375/AshraeCondensingtechnology.pdf
Carl

Lock out

@ February 2, 2014 11:08 PM in triangle tube with trimax

You should be able to power the boiler off than on to reset.
You can check the error log and see how many times it has  happened.
A bad ignitor is one common cause.
Carl

Setback

@ January 31, 2014 2:04 PM in tekmar 363 and UNOCC

In theory doing the setback using water temp should work. You calculate the water temp needed to match the heat loss at a given indoor temp and you are good to go.

Here is my problem with it.
The boiler will be calling and hot anytime the outdoor temp is below the WWSD setpoint. Anytime the boiler is hot, you are wasting some heat and electricity.

The boiler and baseboard loop will have to remain above 150 supply to prevent boiler condensation. On warmer days the unocc heating curve will be lower than 150. The house will heat to the t-stat setpoint regardless.

A heat loss calc is an average estimation. On the average 25 degree day with overcast sky's and light wind, the estimate will be pretty close and the system will match the temp very closely.
On a calm 25 degree day with lot's of sunshine, the house will overheat.
On a super windy 25 degree night, There will not be enough heat.

If you decide to make the adjustments yourself, just go slow and record everything.
There are settings that will make the system nonfunctional if they are incorrect.
Tekmar has a job record sheet for most products that make the process easier.

Carl

Backwards

@ January 31, 2014 12:00 PM in Plumber

First thing to check is the arrow on the side and the arrow on the circulator. They should be going in the same direction.
A picture would help.
Carl

Drip

@ January 31, 2014 11:58 AM in Installing a WaterCop and now I have dripping backflow preventer

A problem I have seen with the leak detector is that the water valve gets shut off because of a dripping toilet. The backflow preventer detects lower pressure in the house and allows water to drip out of the boiler loop into the vent. The boiler then depressurizes and locks out. This causes a much bigger problem, the house freezes.
The solution is to put a spring check upstream of the backflow preventer.
I have been curious if this is the sign of a bad devise or if it is normal. Hotrod?
Carl

Direction

@ January 31, 2014 9:53 AM in tekmar 363 and UNOCC

I think there are quite a few settings that should be tweaked.
This woulds be better done by a tech on site that can verify the way your system is setup and piped.




MIX ROOM Unocc 65   Should be set to setback temp ( the temp you want the room during unocc)

BOIL ROOM Unocc 65  same as mix room

DHW TANK UNOCC 80   Why not off

SETPOINT Unocc off  

WWSD Unocc 62   this could be set lower (will turn off boiler based on outdoor temp)



also

MIX ROOM Occ 70   OK

MIX TERM base       I thought you had  infloor

MIX MIN 150           Seems high, usually more like 90 to110 depending on type

MIX INDR 100    Very high, should be more like 70

MIX DSGN 220   This is incorrect, should be in the 120 to 150 range, depending on type

OUT DSGN 32  should be design temp for your area

MIX MAX off     should be set

MIXING flot

MOTR SPD 90

10K 2 DHW

BOIL ROOM occ 70

BOIL DSGN 200     This is too high

BOIL MIN 180      This could go as low as 150 depending on needed output (will save energy)

BOIL MASS hevy

DHW THRU valv

DHW TANK occ 180   Way too high

DHW PRI mix

SETPOINT occ 135

WWSD occ off   I would turn this on and set to 65

Carl

Details

@ January 31, 2014 12:18 AM in tekmar 363 and UNOCC

I think your best approach will be to find a way to setback the thermostats when you will be away for long periods. Using the 363 to turn off the DHW will also help, the unocc wwsd setting will also help save energy.
You have a non condensing boiler. There are limits to how far you can safely turn it down.
There are some changes that could be made to your present setting that would help with efficiency. I would want to be a little more familiar with you setup before making suggestions.
 Carl

Boiler

@ January 30, 2014 10:56 PM in tekmar 363 and UNOCC

What type of boiler do you have?
What type of heat?

Well

@ January 30, 2014 9:15 PM in tekmar 363 and UNOCC

I think that is a bad idea on most systems.
If you lower the water temps to the point that the room temp is reduced, you will still have a call for heat and the boiler will be maintaining temp the entire time. I would bet that you will actually use more energy set up this way.
This may work for some constant circ systems but is a bad idea for the average residential system.
With TN2 and TN4 the setpoint to the room is lowered and the boiler temps are lowered. This is very different.
Carl

363

@ January 30, 2014 8:00 AM in tekmar 363 and UNOCC

The 363 is not designed to setback room temps.
Those features are available in the TN4 and TN2 models.
Carl

I'd...

@ January 29, 2014 11:46 PM in Closely Spaced Tees - maybe not?

Have to disagree with you on this one Steve.
It is just not close.The loops will ghost flow each other.
Carl
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