Joined on January 19, 2012
Last Post on April 24, 2014
@ February 14, 2014 5:20 PM in 007 CAPAll right Chris, you got me.
What the $%^$#% is a Portuguese Chandelier.
@ February 14, 2014 5:17 PM in Jumper thermostat contacts - ZoneTrol IIT-stats are switches.
Some will steal a little power to power their own display.
Older ones have anticipators that draw energy in order to heat the thermostat slightly in order to anticipate the room warming.
Unless they are part sophisticated control system, t-stats are first and foremost, switches.
@ February 14, 2014 5:06 PM in 4 zone switching relay or 6 zone switching relayI assume you are working with the alpine from your earlier post.
Your DHW should be controlled by the boiler with it's own circ.
The AC is a completely different system.
That leaves you with 3 zones. I would use one ecm circ and zone valves. Either way you are only controlling 3 things so you don't need a 6 zone controller.
@ February 13, 2014 6:36 PM in Jumper thermostat contacts - ZoneTrol IIYou won't hurt anything with a jumper.It is designed for a t-stat which is a simple switch.
@ February 10, 2014 10:40 AM in Tekmar Second Stage Heating ProblemI would talk to Tekmar about it. You might start with your local rep.
Even if they just give you a partial credit, it would be worth your effort.
@ February 10, 2014 10:24 AM in Tekmar Second Stage Heating ProblemIt think that the 543 is not going to get you there. It seems like it was somewhat of a mistake on tekmar's part
I would buy a 553 and set the differential as you see fit.
Your 543 is not considering the slow response time of h1 and is turning on h2 too quickly.
@ February 8, 2014 12:32 AM in Tekmar Second Stage Heating ProblemI think your issue is in the 543. Have you checked the "terminal units" setting for stage 1 and 2?
It would be nice if you could set the differential between the stages. The newer 553 allows it. This would certainly fix the issue.
The install is very pretty. You should send a picture to Grundfos, they would be very pleased.
Have you spoken with tech support?
Best of luck
@ February 6, 2014 7:41 PM in Flue gas due point questionThis came up in a post a while back.
Although any flue gas condensation is not ideal, If the boiler has has the opportunity to come up to full temp and dry out the flue before the heating cycle is over, the damage is minimized. I your case, it sounds like you may get some condensation when the DHW demand starts but by the time the cycle ends things are pretty hot and dry.
In the example I cited, the boiler was short cycling leaving a wet flue every time. This , I believe was the cause of the flue corrosion.
@ February 6, 2014 7:25 PM in NORA is back!!!!There just needs to be a balance between regulation and free enterprise.
If the government stays completely out, we go back to the days when the Rockefellers and Standard Oil secretly cornered the entire oil market. During the same time the unregulated heating industry was exploding boilers at an incredible rate.
Too much regulation is stifling.
I for one am glad to see Nora funded.
Thank for the update Tim
@ February 6, 2014 7:12 PM in obstruction in baseboard hot water systemIt looks like you have the pressure under control.
The expansion tank over the boiler is not a bladder style,so you should not be leaving any air elimination devices open.
You should be able to manual bleed the radiator. The air eliminator in the attic should allow air to escape when you loosen the cap. Tighten the cap when you are done. It may be munged up and will not allow anything out, in which case you should replace it.
Is the circulator pumping towards or away from the expansion tank? This seems like a minor detail but is critically important when trying to get air out of a system.
@ February 6, 2014 11:38 AM in obstruction in baseboard hot water systemIce has you going in the right direction.
You really cannot even start this process until you have a functioning prv/fill valve and pressure gauge.
Pictures from farther back would help.
@ February 5, 2014 11:14 PM in How, exactly doesThe Grundfos guys have told me that auto adapt only works if the circ is wired always on.
I have only tried it on radiant systems and was not happy with it. If a 1or 2 loop zone called, it would not respond at all. It is a little better with the check valve removed.
I wire the alpha to the switch and run it in constant pressure mode. It works well that way.
I imagine it would work well in a constant circ system.
As far as how it works, I am not really sure.
@ February 5, 2014 2:58 PM in Flue gas due point questionNick,
On a cast iron boiler, I would be more concerned about condensation in the flue at the lower temps (unless it is stainless). The flue is a tough one because it depends on how long it is and weather or not it is run in a conditioned space. I have seen flues rot out on boilers with 160 degree return temps. The flues were mostly run in unconditioned attics. The boilers were oversized and running short cycles.
I think it was Gennedy that said that you can tell if the flue is condensing by looking to see if the plume is detaching from the vent termination. This make sense to me although I am not sure if it is commonly accepted.
It is my understanding that the utilities derate (add air) to the fuel in order to make appliances run more efficiently at altitude. Do you have information that contradicts this? I am genuinely interested, if my understanding is incorrect.
@ February 5, 2014 2:40 PM in Triangle Tube Excellence condensate trap sedimentThat looks a lot like the grounds found inside Govanni (sp) exchangers.
That is one of the things i like about the firetube design.
Thanks for the pics,
@ February 5, 2014 11:19 AM in In-wall heaters for basementIt sounds like you need to get a HVAC contractor to have a look.
I would pursue the option of tying into the existing system first. The majority of furnaces are oversized to the actual heat loss and basements generally do not require a whole lot of heat. Registers from above will work just fine if done correctly.
Someone needs to do a heat loss calc on the house and then check the capacities of the existing ducts. I would be surprised if it cannot be done.
@ February 4, 2014 11:50 AM in Flue gas due point questionAre you trying to figure out when a condensing boiler will condense or when condensation will damage the flue?
As for the condensing boiler, it looks like a return water temp around 122.
The flue damage is more complicated.
This article may help. http://www.heatinghelp.com/files/posts/13375/AshraeCondensingtechnology.pdf
@ February 2, 2014 11:08 PM in triangle tube with trimaxYou should be able to power the boiler off than on to reset.
You can check the error log and see how many times it has happened.
A bad ignitor is one common cause.
@ January 31, 2014 2:04 PM in tekmar 363 and UNOCCIn theory doing the setback using water temp should work. You calculate the water temp needed to match the heat loss at a given indoor temp and you are good to go.
Here is my problem with it.
The boiler will be calling and hot anytime the outdoor temp is below the WWSD setpoint. Anytime the boiler is hot, you are wasting some heat and electricity.
The boiler and baseboard loop will have to remain above 150 supply to prevent boiler condensation. On warmer days the unocc heating curve will be lower than 150. The house will heat to the t-stat setpoint regardless.
A heat loss calc is an average estimation. On the average 25 degree day with overcast sky's and light wind, the estimate will be pretty close and the system will match the temp very closely.
On a calm 25 degree day with lot's of sunshine, the house will overheat.
On a super windy 25 degree night, There will not be enough heat.
If you decide to make the adjustments yourself, just go slow and record everything.
There are settings that will make the system nonfunctional if they are incorrect.
Tekmar has a job record sheet for most products that make the process easier.
@ January 31, 2014 12:00 PM in PlumberFirst thing to check is the arrow on the side and the arrow on the circulator. They should be going in the same direction.
A picture would help.
@ January 31, 2014 11:58 AM in Installing a WaterCop and now I have dripping backflow preventerA problem I have seen with the leak detector is that the water valve gets shut off because of a dripping toilet. The backflow preventer detects lower pressure in the house and allows water to drip out of the boiler loop into the vent. The boiler then depressurizes and locks out. This causes a much bigger problem, the house freezes.
The solution is to put a spring check upstream of the backflow preventer.
I have been curious if this is the sign of a bad devise or if it is normal. Hotrod?
@ January 31, 2014 9:53 AM in tekmar 363 and UNOCCI think there are quite a few settings that should be tweaked.
This woulds be better done by a tech on site that can verify the way your system is setup and piped.
MIX ROOM Unocc 65 Should be set to setback temp ( the temp you want the room during unocc)
BOIL ROOM Unocc 65 same as mix room
DHW TANK UNOCC 80 Why not off
SETPOINT Unocc off
WWSD Unocc 62 this could be set lower (will turn off boiler based on outdoor temp)
MIX ROOM Occ 70 OK
MIX TERM base I thought you had infloor
MIX MIN 150 Seems high, usually more like 90 to110 depending on type
MIX INDR 100 Very high, should be more like 70
MIX DSGN 220 This is incorrect, should be in the 120 to 150 range, depending on type
OUT DSGN 32 should be design temp for your area
MIX MAX off should be set
MOTR SPD 90
10K 2 DHW
BOIL ROOM occ 70
BOIL DSGN 200 This is too high
BOIL MIN 180 This could go as low as 150 depending on needed output (will save energy)
BOIL MASS hevy
DHW THRU valv
DHW TANK occ 180 Way too high
DHW PRI mix
SETPOINT occ 135
WWSD occ off I would turn this on and set to 65
@ January 31, 2014 12:18 AM in tekmar 363 and UNOCCI think your best approach will be to find a way to setback the thermostats when you will be away for long periods. Using the 363 to turn off the DHW will also help, the unocc wwsd setting will also help save energy.
You have a non condensing boiler. There are limits to how far you can safely turn it down.
There are some changes that could be made to your present setting that would help with efficiency. I would want to be a little more familiar with you setup before making suggestions.