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Zman

Zman

Joined on January 19, 2012

Last Post on April 19, 2014

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Triangle tube

@ November 14, 2012 11:40 PM in condensing boiler quality?

Hands down I would use a triangle tube. The firetube HX is the only way to go.
The munchkin elite has the same gianonni exchanger you have experienced. Aluminum has no place in a condensing boiler. The WM 97+ uses the same HX design as triangle tube.
My opinion,
Carl

The real problem..

@ November 14, 2012 9:47 AM in One thermostat two heat sources?

You could do a 2 stage t-stat and put the electric on a contactor/relay.
The real problem is a lack of radiation in the room. I would try to troubleshoot that. Is the steam distribution inadequate, or is the radiator undersized?
Carl

I would remove it

@ November 14, 2012 9:01 AM in Having Trouble Refilling/Bleeding Radiant Heat System

That size line is probably not causing a pressure problem in your system. It is really unprofessional. Are there any straps on the vertical pipe? What would prevent someone from leaning on it and severing the weak csst above? Did they ground your gas line to prevent electrical damage? The installer saved some time by not using hard pipe and left a liability. I would repipe it.
Carl

Application

@ November 14, 2012 8:53 AM in Triangle Tube Solo 110 and Smart 80

Gordon,
I agree that on a well designed system, where the zones use similar water temps, outdoor reset is a better tool for preventing overheating. There may be some retro applications where capping the output will prevent the boiler from overproducing. I agree it should not be the preferred method.
Carl

I would..

@ November 14, 2012 8:47 AM in series-loop design question

Look at the approximate lengths of the runs and footage of baseboard. Unless you have an extremely long run or have way to many emitters, the pex should would great.
Adding a few crimp fittings to a run will not have a serious impact. I would have to look it up, I don't think the fitting will add more than an "equivalent foot" of resistance.
Carl

Nice plan

@ November 13, 2012 11:22 PM in Triangle Tube Solo 110 and Smart 80

Chris,
Thanks for the response. I see what you are doing.

Jim,
The reason for the 2 110's is to get the maximum turndown ratio. With 9 zones, you likely have some small loads. If you have 1 or 2 zones calling, you only need maybe 5k to 10k BTU. A larger boiler will not be able to match the load. Instead it will cycle on and off, reducing efficiency.

Is your entire house radiant? In slab?
How much snowmelt are you doing?
You have excess heating capacity due to your hot water needs. Why not use it for snowmelt?

Carl

15-58

@ November 13, 2012 9:00 AM in Circulator size needed

I would say Grundfos 15-58
Ideally you will push about 2 gpm at a delta t of 10. The nice thing with the 15-58 is you can dial in the speed to get your delta t correct.
Carl

aquastat

@ November 13, 2012 8:30 AM in t'stat for slant fin kicker

Any aquastat designed for 120 volt will work. As long as you can get good contact with a pipe. I have seen inexpensive "snap disk"stats  installed on appliances like that. You may want something adjustable like a honeywell or white rodgers strap on. At some water temp the air will feel cold coming from the heater. An adjustable stat will help you dial it in. I am unaware of an load minimum on a 120 volt t-stat..
Carl 

post a picture

@ November 12, 2012 11:27 PM in Heat all the time!!

post a picture of your boiler piping

Did it work before?

@ November 12, 2012 11:11 PM in Triangle Tube Solo 110 and Smart 80

You existing system could produced about 153,600 btu's. If they are single stage they can modulate to 76,800.
A single tt110 produces 99,000 btu's and can modulate to 24,000.
Two tt110;s will do 198.000 and modulate to 24,000
A tt 175 will go to 157,000 and modulate to 46,000.
I would not even consider a tt250.  It cannot come near matching your typical heat load.

If I were on a budget, I would put in a tt175 with an smart 80 or 100.

If you can swing it,  dual tt110's would be perfect.

Are you replacing the snowmelt boiler? I would use a  heat exchanger and power it with the tt boilers.

Chris,
I don't understand limiting the modulation rate. The boiler will slowly ramp up until it matches the load. I can't see the need to limit it?

Carl

Doable

@ November 10, 2012 5:30 PM in Adding heat to an addition

What you are proposing sounds doable.
You should be able to tie into an existing boiler. It is best to keep baseboard and radiators on separate zones. Your contractor will have to verify capacity.
Pex with an O2 barrier is suitable for heating systems.
The amount of baseboard needed will be based on the heat loss of your addition. Calculations will need to be done.
There are many variables when tying into an existing system. A good contractor will help you work through them.
Carl

Propane

@ November 10, 2012 12:37 PM in Boiler heating system upgrade

I just bought propane in Colorado for $1.58/ga l
Heat pumps work great in some climates not so great in others.
Check out this www.eia.gov/neic/experts/heatcalc.xls

Carl

MV

@ November 10, 2012 9:22 AM in Laars HH 250 boiler replacement problems

Matt,
If you have a call for heat, you should have voltage to the 24v on the honeywell.
If all they safeties have been satisfied, you should have voltage to the MV on the honeywell.The safety switches are in series, so you should be able to follow them with your meter. The jumper on the damper switch goes across the 2 middle ones (2 &5)
I am not sure how you pump controller or lack of high limit is playing into this. Is something miswired? Be careful you are not jumpered from the control side to the safety side at the vent damper.
Carl

Ice

@ November 10, 2012 8:42 AM in Calibration wrench for Honeywell

Ice,
If you look at his other posts, He is very concerned that different t-stats can range a degree or so.

AC10
 I would think a good electronics store would have a wrench like that. I personally don't this calibrating one t-stat precisely is very important. The bigger issue with t-stat is their location.You can easily have a 5 degree range within a room. This range will change constantly.Little changes in outdoor temp, sun angles, opening and closing of interior door ect will make this dynamic. If you are concerned with accuracy, look at t-stats with multiple remote sensors and set them up to average.Tekmar has some nice ones.

Carl

J star

@ November 9, 2012 9:24 AM in trouble with a new system

J star is somewhere near you. You might drop him a line.

You can lead a horse.....

@ November 9, 2012 8:40 AM in trouble with a new system

Post your location and hopefully you can get a referral. Folks on here have given you endless advise yet still the knucklehead wasted a perfectly good boiler.The house still doesn't heat correctly.
Your problem is not that complex. You just need a real heating pro to troubleshoot it.
Carl

Always on?

@ November 9, 2012 8:22 AM in t'stat for slant fin kicker

Do you have a residential heating system that is always on? That seems really inefficient.
Usually a kickspace heater would be wired with an aquastat and a thermostat wired in series. That way you would never blow cold air on your feet. I wonder  if you have a high temp aquastat in your heater. Mod/con boilers often run lower temps and may not be tripping the stat.

I have used these http://www.aubetech.com/products/list.php?noLangue=2&noFamille=1&app=1  and had good luck. Be sure to use a 120 volt model
Carl

Has anyone?

@ November 9, 2012 8:08 AM in Boiler stand for TT boiler

Has anyone tried running unistrut from floor to ceiling? I would think 2 struts would be stiff enough. The top and bottom would obviously have to be anchored to concrete or framing. The hanging bracket would be better if it were through bolted, so it can't slip.

The document?

@ November 9, 2012 8:00 AM in Mold Inspection Protocol

Sounds interesting. How do we get the protocol document?
Was humidifying a typo? I am under the impression mold likes moisture.
Welcome to the wall.
Carl

Reply

@ November 9, 2012 7:53 AM in Having Trouble Refilling/Bleeding Radiant Heat System

The pressure in your system should be pretty even. The expansion tank if sized and working properly should make up thermal expansion. Air trapped in you system should actually stabilize your pressure. To definitively evaluate your expansion tank, you need to remove it and check the pressure. If you tap the side of an installed tank and the entire tank sounds waterlogged, it is probably bad. If the pressure goes way up or boiler relieve valve discharges you have a problem with the tank. The location of the circulator and expansion tank in your particular system will also make the pressure do strange things.If the pressure changes immediately upon the valve opening, it is because of the pump location. If it increases as the temperature increases it is an expansion issue.

I would not recommend cutting into your system until you are ready to do it right.

The size of the zone piping is probably fine. There are many factors that go into the selection of pipe size. What it comes down to is, are you getting enough GPM to the heaters? It sounds like your heaters are getting hot. That is a good thing.
Carl

I would..

@ November 8, 2012 11:30 PM in New equipment - questions and request for recommendations

I would put in a mod/con boiler with a side arm water heater. You flue can be lined with flex or ridged pipe. A wall hung model might help with future flooding. I like Triangle Tube boilers.

Your existing boiler is basically "totaled" The cost of replacing the gas valves, electronics and heat shield materials would be more than replacement.

Carl

I know those guys

@ November 8, 2012 11:08 PM in Having Trouble Refilling/Bleeding Radiant Heat System

Looking at your photos, I had a feeling I had seen this artist before. Check out this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CsKFhOw-PXw  . Curly starts the good stuff about 5 minutes in.

Seriously,
As I was leading up to, and slimpickins stated, you have to correctly pipe your boiler in order to fix your air problem. In a nutshell. The expansion tank needs to be directly upstream of you circulator. It makes sense to put the air eliminator and fill valve there as well. In your case it will take some work to get it straightened out. It might be worth hiring someone. If you decide too take it on. I would highly recommend buying "Pumping Away" from this web site. Dan does a better job explaining boiler piping than I ever could.

As for the gas line.If you post the BTU rating of the boiler as well as the size and length of the pipe. Someone can tell you if it is correct. An undersized line will give you low pressure at the burners and poor efficiency.

Carl
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