Joined on January 19, 2012
Last Post on April 24, 2014
@ November 15, 2012 12:13 AM in 1" pex for loop to radsIs it possible to rum a 1/2" supply and return to each radiator and back to a manifold near the boiler? You could have individual control of the radiators with trv's or zone valves.
@ November 15, 2012 12:02 AM in what need to be doneWhat is the Btu rating of the boiler? Have you done a heat loss calc? How big is the house? Where are you?
At first glance you have quite a few zones and a quite large single stage boiler. How long is the typical boiler cycle?
@ November 14, 2012 11:49 PM in Recent JobsYou should be busy (and proud). Beautiful work.
Thanks for sharing.
@ November 14, 2012 11:40 PM in condensing boiler quality?Hands down I would use a triangle tube. The firetube HX is the only way to go.
The munchkin elite has the same gianonni exchanger you have experienced. Aluminum has no place in a condensing boiler. The WM 97+ uses the same HX design as triangle tube.
@ November 14, 2012 9:47 AM in One thermostat two heat sources?You could do a 2 stage t-stat and put the electric on a contactor/relay.
The real problem is a lack of radiation in the room. I would try to troubleshoot that. Is the steam distribution inadequate, or is the radiator undersized?
@ November 14, 2012 9:01 AM in Having Trouble Refilling/Bleeding Radiant Heat SystemThat size line is probably not causing a pressure problem in your system. It is really unprofessional. Are there any straps on the vertical pipe? What would prevent someone from leaning on it and severing the weak csst above? Did they ground your gas line to prevent electrical damage? The installer saved some time by not using hard pipe and left a liability. I would repipe it.
@ November 14, 2012 8:53 AM in Triangle Tube Solo 110 and Smart 80Gordon,
I agree that on a well designed system, where the zones use similar water temps, outdoor reset is a better tool for preventing overheating. There may be some retro applications where capping the output will prevent the boiler from overproducing. I agree it should not be the preferred method.
@ November 14, 2012 8:47 AM in series-loop design questionLook at the approximate lengths of the runs and footage of baseboard. Unless you have an extremely long run or have way to many emitters, the pex should would great.
Adding a few crimp fittings to a run will not have a serious impact. I would have to look it up, I don't think the fitting will add more than an "equivalent foot" of resistance.
@ November 13, 2012 11:22 PM in Triangle Tube Solo 110 and Smart 80Chris,
Thanks for the response. I see what you are doing.
The reason for the 2 110's is to get the maximum turndown ratio. With 9 zones, you likely have some small loads. If you have 1 or 2 zones calling, you only need maybe 5k to 10k BTU. A larger boiler will not be able to match the load. Instead it will cycle on and off, reducing efficiency.
Is your entire house radiant? In slab?
How much snowmelt are you doing?
You have excess heating capacity due to your hot water needs. Why not use it for snowmelt?
@ November 13, 2012 9:00 AM in Circulator size neededI would say Grundfos 15-58
Ideally you will push about 2 gpm at a delta t of 10. The nice thing with the 15-58 is you can dial in the speed to get your delta t correct.
@ November 13, 2012 8:30 AM in t'stat for slant fin kickerAny aquastat designed for 120 volt will work. As long as you can get good contact with a pipe. I have seen inexpensive "snap disk"stats installed on appliances like that. You may want something adjustable like a honeywell or white rodgers strap on. At some water temp the air will feel cold coming from the heater. An adjustable stat will help you dial it in. I am unaware of an load minimum on a 120 volt t-stat..
@ November 12, 2012 11:27 PM in Heat all the time!!post a picture of your boiler piping
@ November 12, 2012 11:11 PM in Triangle Tube Solo 110 and Smart 80You existing system could produced about 153,600 btu's. If they are single stage they can modulate to 76,800.
A single tt110 produces 99,000 btu's and can modulate to 24,000.
Two tt110;s will do 198.000 and modulate to 24,000
A tt 175 will go to 157,000 and modulate to 46,000.
I would not even consider a tt250. It cannot come near matching your typical heat load.
If I were on a budget, I would put in a tt175 with an smart 80 or 100.
If you can swing it, dual tt110's would be perfect.
Are you replacing the snowmelt boiler? I would use a heat exchanger and power it with the tt boilers.
I don't understand limiting the modulation rate. The boiler will slowly ramp up until it matches the load. I can't see the need to limit it?
@ November 10, 2012 5:30 PM in Adding heat to an additionWhat you are proposing sounds doable.
You should be able to tie into an existing boiler. It is best to keep baseboard and radiators on separate zones. Your contractor will have to verify capacity.
Pex with an O2 barrier is suitable for heating systems.
The amount of baseboard needed will be based on the heat loss of your addition. Calculations will need to be done.
There are many variables when tying into an existing system. A good contractor will help you work through them.
@ November 10, 2012 12:37 PM in Boiler heating system upgradeI just bought propane in Colorado for $1.58/ga l
Heat pumps work great in some climates not so great in others.
Check out this www.eia.gov/neic/experts/heatcalc.xls
@ November 10, 2012 9:22 AM in Laars HH 250 boiler replacement problemsMatt,
If you have a call for heat, you should have voltage to the 24v on the honeywell.
If all they safeties have been satisfied, you should have voltage to the MV on the honeywell.The safety switches are in series, so you should be able to follow them with your meter. The jumper on the damper switch goes across the 2 middle ones (2 &5)
I am not sure how you pump controller or lack of high limit is playing into this. Is something miswired? Be careful you are not jumpered from the control side to the safety side at the vent damper.
@ November 10, 2012 8:42 AM in Calibration wrench for HoneywellIce,
If you look at his other posts, He is very concerned that different t-stats can range a degree or so.
I would think a good electronics store would have a wrench like that. I personally don't this calibrating one t-stat precisely is very important. The bigger issue with t-stat is their location.You can easily have a 5 degree range within a room. This range will change constantly.Little changes in outdoor temp, sun angles, opening and closing of interior door ect will make this dynamic. If you are concerned with accuracy, look at t-stats with multiple remote sensors and set them up to average.Tekmar has some nice ones.
@ November 9, 2012 9:24 AM in trouble with a new systemJ star is somewhere near you. You might drop him a line.
@ November 9, 2012 8:40 AM in trouble with a new systemPost your location and hopefully you can get a referral. Folks on here have given you endless advise yet still the knucklehead wasted a perfectly good boiler.The house still doesn't heat correctly.
Your problem is not that complex. You just need a real heating pro to troubleshoot it.
@ November 9, 2012 8:22 AM in t'stat for slant fin kickerDo you have a residential heating system that is always on? That seems really inefficient.
Usually a kickspace heater would be wired with an aquastat and a thermostat wired in series. That way you would never blow cold air on your feet. I wonder if you have a high temp aquastat in your heater. Mod/con boilers often run lower temps and may not be tripping the stat.
I have used these http://www.aubetech.com/products/list.php?noLangue=2&noFamille=1&app=1 and had good luck. Be sure to use a 120 volt model
@ November 9, 2012 8:08 AM in Boiler stand for TT boilerHas anyone tried running unistrut from floor to ceiling? I would think 2 struts would be stiff enough. The top and bottom would obviously have to be anchored to concrete or framing. The hanging bracket would be better if it were through bolted, so it can't slip.
@ November 9, 2012 8:00 AM in Mold Inspection ProtocolSounds interesting. How do we get the protocol document?
Was humidifying a typo? I am under the impression mold likes moisture.
Welcome to the wall.