Joined on September 30, 2012
Last Post on November 14, 2013
@ November 14, 2013 1:11 AM in I got the bill letter from the maintenence office.You should be sending them a bill!
@ November 13, 2013 4:13 AM in Is steam still a viable heating technology for new installs?I have a hard time seeing a future for low delta P systems that operate at high temperature. This maximizes thermal distribution inefficiency and increases installation cost and inflexibility.
The diameters of Gerry's system are crazy small, that's a big driver of savings at installation and for efficiency. Mini-Tube seems like the right idea. The problem is the lack of modulating sources and controls. Zoning is another tangential problem.
@ November 13, 2013 3:12 AM in Radiant staple up insulationAdding: Foam insulation limits a walls potential to dry if gets wet, so it's very important that all other sources of water intrusion are resolved; leaking downspouts, improper flashing, improper grading, anything that promotes the intrusion of water into the wall assembly or increases the dampness of the foundation. If your house has been retrofitted with exterior foam board that covers the rim joist, you may want to avoid foams with low vapor permeability in this location on the interior side. Perhaps even foam in general. (two vapor barriers can trap moisture)
"So, how would I resolve the basement air filtration and moisture
issues? Are you talking about air sealing, getting a tighter fitting
basement bulkhead door, etc? Should I be having some sort of barrier
between the cellulose and the foundation wall if we go with that
Yes to all. The basement should be the primary air barrier --that includes the rim joists, basement doors, other penetrations. It's probably not practical to rely on the floor insulation to completely fulfill this function in the long term.
Regarding the cellulose: foam would be an excellent barrier between the cellulose and concrete. Particularly if you don't have rim joists. I'm not sure if it could be done another way.
@ November 11, 2013 1:22 AM in Hydronic Replacement Boiler SizingIsn't the mod/con needed for the modulation? There's four air handlers, they're probably zoned.
@ November 11, 2013 1:19 AM in Hydronic Replacement Boiler Sizing"sounds like there must be like 30 % outside air lock on the secondary heating and cooling"
I'm not familiar with what you are talking about, what is an outside air lock on the secondary heating and cooling?
@ November 11, 2013 1:08 AM in Radiant staple up insulationI've heard denim is quite hard to install properly.
@ November 11, 2013 1:06 AM in Radiant staple up insulationThink about future maintenance; you probably want something that's easy to remove and put back in place. Mineral wool can be cut more precisely than fiberglass, allowing for a significantly better fit, and it doesn't wick moisture like cellulose which can be a problem where the insulation is adjacent to the foundation. Whatever you do, any basement air infiltration and moisture problems are really separate issues and probably need to be resolved before access is restricted by this project.
Try looking for mineral wool with a foil face. Last time I checked they didn't have it in the correct width, but that was a long time ago.
@ November 8, 2013 12:34 AM in Should I have separate system and boiler pumps?It appears the previous boiler had an integrated buffer with tankless coil.
@ November 7, 2013 12:47 AM in Should I have separate system and boiler pumps?manifold in detail? Is it possible the loops are partially shut off?
@ November 6, 2013 12:43 AM in TwinBoiler Schematicone unit into the other?
@ November 6, 2013 12:11 AM in Loch- 55 Update-for the the loch?
@ November 5, 2013 1:40 PM in Loch- 55 Update-What settings on the loch did you try?
What delta were you trying to get with the bee?
@ November 4, 2013 3:09 AM in Stage-fired boiler controls?,it was a hypothetical not related to your install. But I'd love to know how you would approach such a fire ratio.
@ November 3, 2013 7:34 PM in Stage-fired boiler controls?How would you balance the system? Size the orifices for 33% at minimum vapor pressure, then increase the pressure as outdoor temperature drops?
@ November 3, 2013 4:22 PM in code man says my DHW tank has to go as a heat source What now?with the xbloc in this situation is the electrical usage. Certainly a much better version could be made if one rolled their own.
@ November 3, 2013 12:23 PM in code man says my DHW tank has to go as a heat source What now?I think the problem from the inspector's point of view is that morpho has gone out of the grey and into the black. He took an appliance and exclusively re-purposed it for a situation it was not designed for. If the tank was restored to open loop DHW, and heat was delivered via something like a taco xpb-1, is not the problem resolved? It seems like installing a tankless water heater in closed loop operation would be likely to recreate the original complaint.
@ November 2, 2013 2:06 PM in code man says my DHW tank has to go as a heat source What now?I was just wondering what qualities the tankless had that is working well for you. Perhaps there is a combi boiler that could match those specs, then you could sell your current unit which is pretty easy to ship.
@ November 2, 2013 12:39 AM in Knight boiler problemsI don't think it's concentric, it's just close together.
The shear quantity of debris puzzles me, if we are to believe the leading theory, than a rather good chunk of the heat exchanger has been converted to rust. This just doesn't seem possible though after seeing photos of this nature. Until someone demonstrates conclusive evidence to the contrary, I would assume it's from the gas, air, or a combination of the two.
@ November 1, 2013 12:51 PM in code man says my DHW tank has to go as a heat source What now?takagi do you have?
@ October 31, 2013 1:21 AM in Taco Bumblebee Buzzes-the rest of the system go? Have you had the baseboard running yet?