Joined on September 30, 2012
Last Post on June 26, 2014
@ February 2, 2014 2:53 PM in Infloor Radiant Heat issueIf I remember correctly, you are hardly at this location, correct? I would lower the temperature to around 50 for the electric, 45 for the space heater. 10 degrees is not a significant setback in that climate. You would save roughly twice as much.
Ideally the system supply temperature should also be adjusted lower while you are gone.
Yes on the slab sensor, but you might want to consider a two stage tekmar thermostat. If you are still having temperature control issues, the second stage could kick on something else, perhaps the rinnai, but I kinda doubt that heater can interface with a conventional thermostat.
Other things to consider: there are thermostats that are controllable by phone (without internet), and a basic landline is usually pretty cheap. They could also probably be configured to call you if the temperature drops to low.
"As I've indicated in the past, the temp at the outside wall has been 5 - 6 degrees less than the thermostat temp reads via air sensing." -not sure I understand your concern. Are you worried about where to put the stat or are you hoping the slab sensor will eliminate the 5 degree difference?
Regarding the fireplace: I have a similar setup with outside air. Check the interface between the masonry and metal trim of the doors. For me, that was the biggest spot for air leakage by far. I also have a device on top the chimney that closes the flue when not in use.
Unfortunately the glass blocks the radiant energy and those blowers don't extract much heat from the fire.
@ January 23, 2014 12:31 AM in Nest thermostatsTo counter this new google front, I suggest you buy Tekmar.
@ January 20, 2014 1:00 AM in Something Interesting to noodle over.sailing directly downwind faster than the wind
@ January 20, 2014 12:40 AM in Something Interesting to noodle over.The creator is simply mystified by the relationships between various forms of energy.
@ January 19, 2014 1:07 PM in Nest ThermostatIt doesn't do anything that warrants the device's additional complexity. And I believe the data logging requires a cloud account to view.
I don't think much will change in the North American thermostat world until some kind of standard like OpenTherm is adopted.
@ January 19, 2014 12:52 PM in ECR 97GB / Utica SSC Heat ExchangerWas there any build up between the loops? How do you clean something like this? --it looks like most of the heat exchanger surface is inaccessible.
@ January 17, 2014 1:04 AM in Wiring Lochinvar Knight + single Grundfos AlphaWhat you want to do is not considered best practice. I read through your prior threads and current posts. I believe you have misinterpreted information from other heatinghelp posters and Siggenthalar's book. In the past, single pump systems have been promoted by me and others on this forum, but I can not think of single instance where an electromechanically zoned modcon system has been recommended without some form of P/S. I wholeheartedly encourage you to try it, but clearly such a setup, as you have noted, is entirely reliant on various boiler self protection sensors.
@ January 14, 2014 2:49 AM in Wiring Lochinvar Knight + single Grundfos AlphaI really doubt the boiler is that sophisticated.
@ January 14, 2014 2:23 AM in Wiring Lochinvar Knight + single Grundfos AlphaWhat guarantees the sentry valves are open when a call for heat comes in?
@ November 14, 2013 1:11 AM in I got the bill letter from the maintenence office.You should be sending them a bill!
@ November 13, 2013 4:13 AM in Is steam still a viable heating technology for new installs?I have a hard time seeing a future for low delta P systems that operate at high temperature. This maximizes thermal distribution inefficiency and increases installation cost and inflexibility.
The diameters of Gerry's system are crazy small, that's a big driver of savings at installation and for efficiency. Mini-Tube seems like the right idea. The problem is the lack of modulating sources and controls. Zoning is another tangential problem.
@ November 13, 2013 3:12 AM in Radiant staple up insulationAdding: Foam insulation limits a walls potential to dry if gets wet, so it's very important that all other sources of water intrusion are resolved; leaking downspouts, improper flashing, improper grading, anything that promotes the intrusion of water into the wall assembly or increases the dampness of the foundation. If your house has been retrofitted with exterior foam board that covers the rim joist, you may want to avoid foams with low vapor permeability in this location on the interior side. Perhaps even foam in general. (two vapor barriers can trap moisture)
"So, how would I resolve the basement air filtration and moisture
issues? Are you talking about air sealing, getting a tighter fitting
basement bulkhead door, etc? Should I be having some sort of barrier
between the cellulose and the foundation wall if we go with that
Yes to all. The basement should be the primary air barrier --that includes the rim joists, basement doors, other penetrations. It's probably not practical to rely on the floor insulation to completely fulfill this function in the long term.
Regarding the cellulose: foam would be an excellent barrier between the cellulose and concrete. Particularly if you don't have rim joists. I'm not sure if it could be done another way.
@ November 11, 2013 1:22 AM in Hydronic Replacement Boiler SizingIsn't the mod/con needed for the modulation? There's four air handlers, they're probably zoned.
@ November 11, 2013 1:19 AM in Hydronic Replacement Boiler Sizing"sounds like there must be like 30 % outside air lock on the secondary heating and cooling"
I'm not familiar with what you are talking about, what is an outside air lock on the secondary heating and cooling?
@ November 11, 2013 1:08 AM in Radiant staple up insulationI've heard denim is quite hard to install properly.
@ November 11, 2013 1:06 AM in Radiant staple up insulationThink about future maintenance; you probably want something that's easy to remove and put back in place. Mineral wool can be cut more precisely than fiberglass, allowing for a significantly better fit, and it doesn't wick moisture like cellulose which can be a problem where the insulation is adjacent to the foundation. Whatever you do, any basement air infiltration and moisture problems are really separate issues and probably need to be resolved before access is restricted by this project.
Try looking for mineral wool with a foil face. Last time I checked they didn't have it in the correct width, but that was a long time ago.
@ November 8, 2013 12:34 AM in Should I have separate system and boiler pumps?It appears the previous boiler had an integrated buffer with tankless coil.
@ November 7, 2013 12:47 AM in Should I have separate system and boiler pumps?manifold in detail? Is it possible the loops are partially shut off?
@ November 6, 2013 12:43 AM in TwinBoiler Schematicone unit into the other?
@ November 6, 2013 12:11 AM in Loch- 55 Update-for the the loch?