Joined on November 23, 2012
Last Post on March 5, 2014
@ March 3, 2013 10:10 PM in damper open for summer ops?Worry about it. May 2% loss of eff.
@ March 2, 2013 7:29 PM in Penn Boiler G-75 (year 1966) parts, or replace unit?Only has a 14 gal storage tank. The specs are 108*F at the mixing valve at 50*f min inlet water temp. Most people like the water a little hotter then that. I have never installed one but serviced a few and not enough hot water is a problem I hear a lot.
@ March 1, 2013 4:45 PM in Penn Boiler G-75 (year 1966) parts, or replace unit?Recommend you do something. Either replace that valve [if it stuck once it will stick again and the next time it might stick open]or the boiler. In all honesty I would replace the boiler, after all you are just kidding your self if you think the valve is the end of you troubles. With a boiler that old its just the beginning. If you stuck on fixing it please hire someone too do it.
PS I would stay away from combo boilers and have the installer stub out pipe for a indirect in the future.
@ March 1, 2013 4:26 PM in Another GV problemMy receipt and I bought the control last may from Somerville. I have not been out to the job. , The last call was a over the phone repair. sometimes the boiler just has
to hear my voice and it straightens out. As I recall last May the light sequence was power of course Tstat purge or pressure. But as soon as pressure or purge lit the blower would just stop. I know I bypassed the tstat connection and it has worked fine up until a couple days ago when she called. I had her turn the 110v power switch off and back on, she was turning it off for a hour and then on and it just cycled. That time and now apparently its still working.
@ February 28, 2013 5:27 PM in Another GV problemI'll check that out. She does have honeywell zone valves. 3 In fact, hot water main and basement.
@ February 28, 2013 10:31 AM in Another GV problemI have a Weil Mc. gv about 16 - 18 years old. A little less then a year ago [end of last heating season ] the boiler would call for heat and when the pressure light would come on the inducer motor would stop and then the cycle would repeat as many as 10 times or more and then it would go through a complete cycle and fire the boiler. I replaced the controller at that time and had no calls untill yesterday. Customer said it was doing the on off thing she could hear it happening all morning. Had her turn it off at power switch and back on and it fired. That was two days ago and all is still find as of this morning 2-28. Anybody else seen this? I had exact problem with different costumer over 4 years ago. replaced controller and never heard back. [Maybe she called somebody else]
@ February 26, 2013 11:38 AM in no heat in one zone- all baseboardsYou might have a bad pump. Can you actually see the coupling spinning between the pump motor and bearing assambly?
@ February 26, 2013 11:32 AM in Thunderous GV90+Is possible but if a cycle ended before the tstat satisfied or the boiler got up to temp. the control should have flashed and error code. The only other thing I can think of that may cause this noise is a bad pressure reducing valve on the water main coming into the house. They have been known to cause quite a racket when they hammer.
@ February 25, 2013 4:07 PM in Thunderous GV90+You said you ran downstairs 10 seconds after the "thunderous noise" and found the boiler HAD JUST FINISHED a cycle. Hard to have a delayed ignition at the end of a cycle. A hot surface igniter will either produce heat or it won't. If it doesn't produce heat it won't ignite the gas, not early or delayed. Those igniters are right next to the burner. Its hard to believe your having a delayed ignition with a HSI. On the other hand in that same post you said one zone was calling and one had just shut off. I would attempt to recreate the noisy by opening and shutting zone valves by the tstats.
@ February 25, 2013 3:52 PM in Hot Water Heat with cold rooms furthest from the boiler
@ February 25, 2013 3:52 PM in Hot Water Heat with cold rooms furthest from the boilerHow your measuring your baseboard.44" long OK. But 2" high x 6" wide? Anyway you basically have a 4 foot baseboards which ain't gonna cut it. Plus I doubt that they are pipe directly back to the boiler. Most likely in series if on the 2nd floor. I would raise the boiler temp to 180* f.
@ February 24, 2013 12:37 PM in Thunderous GV90+Says its a zone valve issue. Your noy going to have a delayed ing. at the end of the cycle.
@ February 19, 2013 7:47 PM in Yet another boiler selection question TT with built in DHW or indirect?A smart 30 and the tt60. The exe. only has a 14 gal tank. The smart 40 may be just a little big for the tt60.
@ February 19, 2013 7:41 PM in heat pump t-statA real nice two wire tstat that will do what you need. Mod. tp-prh01-a.
@ February 18, 2013 7:28 PM in Compressor Burn outWe are talking what 18oz of refrigerant? Put nice clean freon in and a clean up dryer on the suction side. Also put a hh dryer on the liquid side and sleep easy my friend.
@ February 18, 2013 7:22 PM in Thunderous GV90+Sold on delayed ignition. That happens more with spark igniters then HSI.If your using honeywell zone vavles and have a series 100 pump and a short baseboard run that rubber ball inside the valve will bounce like crazy and make a racket.
@ February 18, 2013 7:08 PM in Intermitted gas furnance problemFurnace has a molded plug on the blower compartment shelf you can try cutting that out and wire nutting the wires togeather. Sounds like you have replaced everthing but the wiring harness.