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Joined on December 1, 2012

Last Post on June 24, 2013

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tankless flues

@ June 24, 2013 1:14 PM in combine tankless flues

dont see anywhere on the link the question is addressed. i realize of course they must be fan powered but  a backdraft damper might solve that 

combine tankless flues

@ June 23, 2013 11:31 AM in combine tankless flues

Ive got a rental on top floor that i have started to build with a rheem 64 tankless unit under a future stair behind the bath room. its 3/5 vent goes right out a 13" brick exterior wall. directly under  floor, below im building my own unit with another bathroom and its own rheem 64  Id like to gang the two flues together and have only one wall penetration but rheem and metal fab are just too stupid to reach or answer questions in any way that instills confidence that some idiot is reading from a script in fact they dont even answer this question and refer you to a paid  service. anyway im aware of the issues but also think ive seen this done on large commercial jobs any ideas?


@ March 11, 2013 7:12 PM in radiant boiler

hes also worried about short cycling  particularly with out door resets, yeah i know but his point is a solid breick house with spray foam insulation takes days to change temperature , this is true in my house , so by the time the house changes the weather outsides changes again and since im not a thick slab radiant heat sink but rather a warmboard under hardwood situation it doesnt take long to warm the room. kind of made sense while crumbling what i thought was extensive research. below is a design he did looks pretty good to me any thoughts- thanks

radiant boiler

@ March 11, 2013 7:00 PM in radiant boiler

my designer [ im installing} really seems to hate boilers for radiant  he says the low flow  1gpm burns them out and they are too expensive when tankless water heater are better, this is the opposite of everything ive read, but hes got a lot of experience and though ive done a fair amount of hvac and plumbing even a bit of radiant im no expert . i thought he was maybe operating on old information since hes kind of old but hes full of numbers specs etc i know enough to know hes not bullshitting but not enough to know if maybe hes just got a maverick perspective worth considering. i asked if it was the condensation from the low temp that burnd them out thinkng he didnt get the whole stainless modcon thing but he says no its the thin wall tubes get hot spots on low flow high btu i thought the tubes were now usually in a block to heat exchange for a dhw loop. any thoughts, if you guys are adament recomend a boiler i was lnterested in triangle tubes newer  also dans recomended one on the home page here , this guy swears by tagagi t2s
thanks again
 im doing 5000 sf 5 story brick in brooklyn


@ March 10, 2013 8:57 AM in tagagi tankless for radiant? 15 btu per sf ?

thanks that s what i thought 

i did something similar

@ March 9, 2013 3:37 PM in Warmboard vs. HeatPly Radiant Heat

I just had home depot rip my plywood into

i did something similar

@ March 9, 2013 3:36 PM in Warmboard vs. HeatPly Radiant Heat

I just had home depot rip my plywood into

tagagi tankless for radiant? 15 btu per sf ?

@ March 9, 2013 2:18 PM in tagagi tankless for radiant? 15 btu per sf ?

renovating a 4 story detached townhouse in brooklyn ny, gutted down to 13" structural brick walls metal stud frame with 2" closed cell foam and possibly some open cell on top as funds permit,im hvac by trade but mostly heavy commercial from sheetmetal perspective though ive done all sorts of plumbing and electric as a general or building my own homes even done a couple simple radiant retrofits to existing hotwater systems adding a zone pump and tempering valve. but this 5000 sq ft 3 family house  I wanted to get a bit of help to be safe although i bought a dozen books and researched the hell out of it , I got a designer who@ .20 ft is reasonable working from home semi retired in low cost state might be a bargain alternative to helpbut wonder if hes up to date he certainly has done a lot of systems for a while but he seems maybe an old dog resistant to new tech or maybe im enthralled with unneeded bells and whistles.I was thinking a triangle tube modcon boiler I realize everyones got an opinion on boilers but this guy seems to think thy are all hyp and recommends a tagagi tankless dhw instead says hes done hundreds without a problem, I read years ago dhw heaters dont last as boilers for various reasons i understood but things have changed quite a bit but boilers got a lot better also so im wondering is this worth a try 15 btu per sq ft also seems high for a foamed in building in nyc with a 90-98 % efficiency boiler 1/2" tubing 12" OC under hardwood floors a sort of home made warmboard system. any thoughts

garden hose for gas line

@ February 9, 2013 10:03 AM in garden hose for gas line

someone who knows how has got to put up the picture in today's [ 2/9/13]  NY daily News, page 18 and the story its the absolute stupidest thing iv ever seen in 40 years of construction. this super of a condo tapped into a gas main before the meter with green garden hoses, ran them up above and across ceilings to other end of building then down into the drip leg of his hot water heater. how did he solve the problem of different thread standards? "masking tape"! they think he may have done this for several years. having just bought and begun to renovate a 100 year old townhouse in Brooklyn I can tell you this third world ingenuity is all to common in every trade often "licenced" contractors that are illiterate but by their certifications through corrupt third world civil employees. how can one believe someone who cant write any language or speak English very well passed licensing exams.

insulating brick walls

@ December 23, 2012 6:23 PM in heat loss and general comments on design

Thanks for that, I have actually looked into that .It turns out in general the scientists say if you are going to insulate a solid brick wall closed cell foam is best because bricks permeable and will destroy things like fiberglass. But more to your point about the freeze thaw issue; they say several things should be considered. First the average winter temperature, one scientist put it this way dont worry at all in th south and up into new york even Boston probably ok even Toronto but north Dakota Manitoba Maine you might really be asking for trouble. this can be mitigated more than one might think by keeping the bricks dry to begin with. one article gave several strategies good maintenance of course proper coping flashing etc and even carefully researched water repellants that allow the brick to dry without soaking in more water. inspecting how the brick has handled weather so far particularly  chimney areas and above the roof-line. your link to that test inspection was also mentioned several times


@ December 9, 2012 9:49 PM in how bad is it really

thanks gordy 

how bad is it really

@ December 9, 2012 6:48 PM in how bad is it really

Trying to save a bit, doing a reno on my house copper water water system but closed radiant heat and also a pex the potable i need some temp heat and could save  if i used non oxygen barrier left off the sprinkler roll since as i bring each floor onto new system i only need the old boiler to last through this season and maybe one more will it rust that quick?
alternatively i could do the sprinkler system in thermapex rather than aquapex but its not potable rated is it really much different i could use back flow preventive etc but defeats savings


@ December 2, 2012 11:29 AM in heat loss and general comments on design

can i make do without an uncoil er i did think a 1000' roll per floor would save a bit how bad is it pulling out 200 zone 

more info

@ December 2, 2012 10:39 AM in heat loss and general comments on design

thanks for commenting
Ive done the "warm board " part already, i knew it wasn't as good and I even welded a 3/4" rod to a backer plate intending to stamp the flashing into the groove but decided it wasn't worth the effort since im also spray foaming open cell to underside for acoustics to heated spaces below thought i wouldn't need the extra oomph but the flat flashing might help a bit with stripping. will go with best practices for controls though i have bought a lot of books and am sort of in the biz im still hazy on details but pretty much separate zones per room mod con boiler outside therm etc. working my way down on a four story house. this top floor will be the rental apts that pay my exorbitant mortgage.
i know 2" of closed cell is rated at R 14  and the brick and gyp add another R3 but im pretty  sure thats a much better R16 than a 5" fiberglass batt so it seems to just use R16-17 input for the calculation wont be accurate ive read a spray foam is more like double the performance of a similar R value.batt system
 also. somewhere i read to use silicone in the channel, and thought that might help with movement and the friction on the pipe against plywood channels don't know how much to worry about friction  cutting into pipe my spaces are fairy tight except the loop ends i jigsawed are a little sloppier say 1" heavy., also wonder if using 5/8 id 3/4od  will not allow for thermal expansion in same sized square channel but 85 degrees probably doesn't expand im aware its more for friction loss than heat but figured it cant hurt. maybe i need to read would be a disaster to have to rip up floors

heat loss and general comments on design

@ December 1, 2012 10:40 PM in heat loss and general comments on design

im doing my own system  gut renovating a 100 year town house metal studs against exterior 12 " brick structural {detached NYC NY] and 2 " closed cell foam insulation maybe another inch of open cell its expensive huh and 5/8 rock. The ceilings 5"open cell 
i made my own warm board with 12" rips of 3/4" plywood spaced 3/4" apart  over aluminum flashing 5/8" possibly 1/2" thermapex ,zones average 200' 3/4" T G solid oak finish floors.thinking triangle tube boiler.
so all of a sudden and a bit late in the game im doubting my research on 12" spacing, and cant find what i think is real world  R value for that type of wall system being un typical suburban construction
. also starting to worry pex will rub on plywood or flashing will be noisy  and weather silicone in channels is good or bad idea or if i should staple the tube into  the  jigsawed loops or if im just getting crazy
appreciate input,BTW tinknocker by trade and  fairly competent in all trades built a few houses etc.