Joined on December 15, 2012
Last Post on December 9, 2013
@ December 9, 2013 6:07 AM in NTI Trinity FTFMy local wholesalers dont rep Knight boilers so I have been installing these TFT's and wow are they good. I like Triangles as well but cant get the same good pricing I get on these units (better wholesaler). First one I put in I would have argued that it had not fired until the fan speed and temp started rising on the screen. One of the things I like is the fresh air is piped directly into the combustion fan, not just into the cabinet making it very, very quiet. The sola control is very inexpensive in comparison to the MCBA of 3 years ago. So far very reliable as well.
@ December 9, 2013 6:01 AM in Probably a question you are asked alot..As soon as I get the ok I will call you or email you to schedule something, I do have a steam pro locally as well. This system is in the 7-8 grand a year in oil consumption range, seems pretty high to me. Hopefully the homeowner will do what I recommended and have an efficiency company come in and do the blower test and walk him through the ways he can save money.
I will still try to get some pics for you all.
@ December 8, 2013 4:25 PM in Probably a question you are asked alot..Central Vermont is where the job is located.
@ December 8, 2013 7:04 AM in alternative endurance flow switchHuge difference.
I have a few of these units out there about 4-8 years in service and no switches all on public water. I am curious to know why this happening to you.
@ December 8, 2013 7:02 AM in Probably a question you are asked alot..OK, OK I will read books, I will call a different specialist, just stop arguing!!
A little background apparently is needed. I do only hydronics and controls. I post a bit on the other sections of this forum.
I won't respond to any of the off point answers.
I have read some helpful tips and have had some nice offers to help so thank you.
I agree that the blower door test, insulation and windows are the first place to start.
Allow me to take some pics and revisit this post in a couple weeks.
@ December 7, 2013 7:35 AM in Probably a question you are asked alot..I don't know how to properly communicate!!
Ok Guys just follow me for a second:
Option 1, Fix whats there to work efficiently and properly to provide heat to all 4 apts.
Option 2, COMPLETELY REMOVE steam system and all piping and all radiators, install ModCon boiler install baseboard, zone properly give each tenant a tstat and roll.
I would like to option 1, but because I am absolutely over my head with steam systems, I am asking what can I do to make this converted 4 apt house work better? Probably was fine when it was a single family home.
I have done NO STEAM systems in my life, so talk to me as you would a child and the next time I am there I will take some pics. As for mains I have no idea will need to check when I go back.
@ December 6, 2013 7:18 AM in Probably a question you are asked alot..I guess my question is less simple than I thought.
The TRV's are exactly the kind of thing I am interested in. If it was hydronic thats what I would do, I didn't know you could TRV steam.
I don't want to convert the old system to water, I want to remove all of it put in high output baseboard, lower the temperature of the water and let a mod/con cook away on it.
The customer was hoping for a cheaper quicker solution for the winter then to start the project this spring.
@ December 4, 2013 6:16 PM in Probably a question you are asked alot..Sorry Guys,
I don't do steam, it's nothing I ever really got into and the reality is there are guys who are much more capable. BUT
I have a customer who just called me and has a 4 unit apt house and tenants are complaining. The system is a one pipe steam and is controlled by one tstat in a small living room on the first floor. As you all already know this leads to hot and cold areas. Typically 2nd floor has the windows open and the first floor is turning up the heat due to a draft.
Can anything be done to help this chimney effect and should I just convert this to a 4 zone hydronic system. The boiler is definitely in its last couple of years of service.
@ November 21, 2013 5:58 AM in Noisy pipes near boiler when only 1 zone is openIf I am seeing this right I would probably install the two closely spaced tees, use the existing pump for primary loop on speed 1 and install a grundfos alpha on the secondary to eliminate the noise from velocity. Of course I may not be seeing this quite right either. Who installs a new boiler but no new zone valves and air separator?
@ November 15, 2013 4:06 PM in Weil Mclain WM 97+ install picsLooks real good
My questions are:
Are you pumping your condensate into the neutralizer?
Did you size that pancake style expansion tank to make sure its big enough for your system?
@ November 15, 2013 6:09 AM in Weil Mclain Ultra/DHW Issues againSo I tried reading through all this post and gave up, so Im sorry if this has been mentioned.
Have you tried unplugging the outdoor sensor, to get the boiler to fire up to the setpoint? I know it wont affect the DHW but he said even unplugging the dhw call it still wont come up to temp.
@ November 13, 2013 6:33 AM in Williamson Boiler Help!!Need specifics on the boiler. I have seen this problem a couple times and it was the hot surface igniter. There was a very very small crack in it and when the boiler was cold it would work but when the boiler got hot the igniter material expanded not allowing the igniter to work and so the boiler would lock out due to 3 attempts to light but didn't and after a couple hours the boiler would cool down and you could turn power off and on and it would fire back up.
@ November 12, 2013 7:04 AM in Interested in the Weil Mclain Eco 110 Boiler, why so cheap? Also, is this tankless?It's less money because it is basic and barebones. They make a different unit to compete with the rest of the boilers on the market called a WM97 I believe. That has options for piping all setup internally, has an expansion tank with a valve and other options but its on par with pricing for the rest of the market. The Eco is just a heat exchanger, a control and a couple safeties, no bells and whistles.
@ November 12, 2013 6:32 AM in Laars Endurance Help Advice What Next?You can amp your circ pump by pulling a wire out that connects to the pump and putting an amp probe around it to make sure its in range while running. All of these F4's I have seen have all been the sensor, you may be able to remove it and see its covered with scale like build up or it may just be shorting internally. I would change that and see how it goes. The circ is a bit of a pain and a bit costly.
@ November 10, 2013 7:51 PM in Laars Endurance Help Advice What Next?Paul
It definitely could be a failing tank sensor you need to test all the sensors. Download the
manual online and follow the instructions you definitely are describing a possible soft lockout condition.
@ November 9, 2013 6:15 AM in Laars Endurance Help Advice What Next?Probably not a flow restrictor problem. I would lean toward
mixing valve or make sue boiler isn't in a soft lock out due
to bad combustion. Sounds weird but if you have concentric
venting its a possibility.
@ November 8, 2013 4:00 PM in Laars Endurance Help Advice What Next?I don't see a valve that just shuts the mixing valve off in any of the pictures. I may
be wrong though. I see the cold valve that shuts off water to both the mix and the domestic plate exchanger. As zman said be careful not to get scalded that water will be hot.
@ November 8, 2013 6:15 AM in Laars Endurance Help Advice What Next?Bill
He meant 16 lbs at the boiler gauge.
So if you did change the honeywell mixing valve already once and the problem sort of got better then failed again, I am sticking with the lack of flow restrictor. To test run something like a bathroom faucet for as long as it takes to typically get it to fail. If the one fixture stays hot that helps us pinpoint, then turn on other fixtures until it fails. That boiler should be able to handle 4 faucets or 1 shower and 1 or 2 faucets simultaneously.
Check out page 9 of the manual http://www.laars.com/LinkClick.aspx?fileticket=2pLC8nYa9A4%3D&tabid=1609&mid=4036
It shows the piping and tempering valve yours is done according to the manufacturer, so thats good. The only thing we can't see is the flow restrictor on yours. You need to make sure its there and before the mixing valve on the cold supply.
I think the water is passing through the heat exchanger to quickly due to the lack of the flow restrictor.
@ November 7, 2013 5:31 PM in Laars Endurance Help Advice What Next?Choban
These Laars units came with a flow restrictor that needed to be piped in properly. They are hard to see on the piping because they sweat inside a fitting so you only see a little bit of the shoulder, I believe it's brass. If it's missing it would explain your problem and if its piped incorrectly it could also explain your problem. Take some pics and post them.
@ November 2, 2013 1:56 PM in CSSTI can remember when I was still a bit green, my boss hated using any csst. I didn't listen because it cut labor costs and the work load in half or less. So I ran it 4 stories on the inside of the sheathing on an outside wall 4 separate lines to individual apts. Never even gave a thought of the siders!!! Well as you have guessed the foam insulators sprayed the pipe against the sheathing and the siders nailed the snot out of it. My boss was less then impressed. Now that I run my own company its all black iron, less possibilities for catastrophic failure.
Glad it worked out for you Mark.
@ October 31, 2013 8:00 PM in Taco Bumblebee Buzzes-All the bumble bees I have installed are in the delta T mode. The noise is much worse the higher the circ runs. Still noisy though in any speed.
@ October 31, 2013 2:47 PM in Taco Bumblebee Buzzes-I know what you are saying I had a nice injection pump give me noise a while back from tight hangers and too close to the wall. This buzz is very different, I will try to record the noise next time I am there. Oh by the way Taco has contacted me to try to work out a solution. Will update you all