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heatpro02920

heatpro02920

Joined on January 28, 2013

Last Post on April 18, 2014

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Heat pump as primary?

@ April 15, 2014 5:53 PM in Need advice/ help for new heating system

I don't think mini splits are a great "primary" heating system. Heat pumps can be reliable and work well in very cold temps, BUT I have never installed a heat pump only system, I use them as aux and supplemental heaters. Now as far as invasion goes, I agree with the pros above, get your hydronic system repaired and maybe throw in a new boiler of some sort, then install some mini splits for supplemental heat. This can be a nice system, use your heatpumps for heat down to 38 degrees or so then use your hydronic system for temps below that where the heat pumps start to use more energy than a fuel fired system..

Now as far as an all in one system for heat and cool, I am sorry to say unless you go radiant heat/cool {which is very invasive} you are not going to find an answer... High pressure and mini splits are options but the best way to go is going to be a ducted furnace with a/c coil and condenser {heat pump or not}... Mildly invasive depending on your house, but cost effective since with a/c you will need duct work anyway..

I have installed mini splits and unico systems {many of them} and everytime I think to myself, not in my house, first with mini splits it just reminds me of something I see in a dentist office, they are glorified window units to me, and unico systems are loud, ugly, expensive, and dont work extremely well, I used to install a bunch of them, now they have slowed down a lot, people dont ask about them as often as they used to and I have ripped a few bad installs out, you really need a good pro to get it rite...

So look into getting your hydronic system back on track, the cost may not be as prohibitive as you except, I know mini splits look like the saving grace of HVAC but they are not the answer to the entire question, sure they have their place but that is next to a primary heating system not in place of it..

Sure its worth something...

@ April 15, 2014 1:29 PM in split system residential unit running fine - need for annual checkup??

You can check the temps across the coils, that will tell you a lot about how its working.. I have customers that will have us come out and check the pressures, change the filter, check the float switches, check the t-stats, clean the coils, check the drains, ect. But I don't do that at my own house and I can do it for free, I clean the coils and change the filters when they are dirty, and fix it when it breaks...

Tank is under 2 years old

@ April 15, 2014 11:12 AM in losing heat

Do you have a washing machine, I have seen faulty washer mixing valves dilute hot water, verify that the water leaving your tank is almost the same temp as what comes of of the nearest faucet...

it can be any of a few problems, 1 is the thermostat on the tank/ gas valve 2 could be gas pressure 3 could be soot build up inhibiting transfer 4 dilution {cold water somehow making its way into DHW lines}...

If you adjust the tanks tem and the burner kicks on, check the temp and record it, then next time it gets cold you turn it up again and check the temp, if you have to keep turning it up to get the same temps and your incoming water isnt getting colder {that is very unlikely} than there is an issue..

Thanks Dan

@ April 15, 2014 10:54 AM in Spoke with Deb at Heating Help today

I found something to keep me busy, my father in laws pool heater has been giving them issues so I took a look at that and replaced the HSI, they wanted to switch to a hybrid water heater so I am doing that today, and their neighbor also wants one so if Re Mikes has another one in stock I may throw theirs in too...
Plus the reason we are down here is to empty a relative that passed aways house and help with arrangements, so that has been keeping my wife and kids busy too.. Hopefully I can start heading back by Friday, since I have a ton work stacking up at home...

Depends on...

@ April 15, 2014 10:41 AM in split system residential unit running fine - need for annual checkup??

What your piece of mind is worth and if that is equal or less to what your service provider charges for a "check up"...

I have a customer that I installed a Buderus G115 boiler for with a new roth tank and all the fixings, tiger loop with garber filter, pri/secondary, ODR, ect ect ect, a very nice install he spared little expense...

So I call him the following year to schedule his first service {I do the first service for free with an install}, and he said he wanted to wait for his first service and would call me when he was ready. So I thought nothing of it, I didnt hear from him for another 3 years!!! He called me one spring and said, come by when you get a chance to service the unit...

So I go there and clean and service the boiler, it was relatively clean, and running when i got there... So he presents me with the coupon for his first annual service and I was expecting it, so I gave him a receipt with no charges added...
We spoke for a while, he is a very nice gentleman, and he said the next time he is going to try and wait 5 years between servicing his unit, I told him he should get it every year and he said he knew that, but if saving a couple hundred bucks a year meant that he may go a weekend without heat someday then so be it...
If you can live like that, then take the gamble, it is one of them things that "makes as much sense as it doesn't"....

So we are in Florida

@ April 14, 2014 11:37 PM in Spoke with Deb at Heating Help today

not really a vacation, kind of the opposite, but I read pumping away and primary secondary today...
I put about an hour into the lost art of steam, and I think that is going to be my favorite to date, it has a different "mood" than the others, I feel like Dans telling me a story while unloading a ton of info in all his books, but in Lost Art, I feel like we are having a conversation, very well done...

One funny note- I am reading the book and he explains a problem a friend of his ran into with a steam pipe that the installer unintentionally installed a new boiler with a lower water level and ran into a huge issue, well about 15 years ago I did the same exact thing, I was working at Fleet at the time and replaced a steam boiler for a customer, the first time I heard it BANG, was upstairs taking the check from the customer as the other 2 guys were cleaning up, I thought the boiler was coming through the floor and we were all going to die... I figured it out after a little investigated and ended up repiping and lifting the boiler, almost 2 days worth of extra labor...

Anyway, I can not wait to get back home, but the books are helping while I am here...

need a little more info than that

@ April 14, 2014 10:59 PM in losing heat

what kind of tank? Direct fired gas, oil, electric, indirect with an oil boiler, indirect with a mod con, gas tankless, ect?????

Did you varify this with a thermometer of some sort, or are you just going by feeling? Most of the calls like this are related to mixing valves and or cold water dilution... I can't count the times I went to a customers house and the problem was their shower valve...

Expansion tank

@ April 14, 2014 12:47 PM in Boiler pressure rising

If your tank has a valve on it, you can unscrew it and see if its is full of water, if its heavy its bad, I have used many methods of checking them, tapping, wobbling, checking the psi tap, trying to feel if they are heavy, all ways which have tricked me at one time or another over the years... Best way is to take her down and check it... They are generally easy to tell if they are bad if they are bad {I know that doenst make a lot of sense} but if they are bad then I can walk up to them and say yah its bad, but if they are good, I will double guess myself and just take it down to check and then put it back up if its good...

As far as your over psi issue goes... Its one of the things in our industry that everyone attacks differently...

I first check for positive shut off {even though you are saying it happens when it gets hot}, make sure the feed valve and pressure reducing valves are in working order.

Next I check the tankless or indirect hot water tank {some people call it a boiler mate, boiler buddy, ect, its a tank that heats DHW with your boilers hot water}. If your boiler also makes DHW {domestic hot water for your faucets and taps} then there is a coil or tank somewhere that on one side of it is full of high pressure domestic/potable water, if this leaks it will leak into your boilers water supply and raise the pressure...

Next if that all checks out is the expansion, when you heat this water it has to go somewhere, so we have expansion tanks, either a steel tank cylinder or an expansion tank with internal air bladder. The steel tanks need to be correctly installed and have the correct amount of air in them to work properly, the bladder style will have a shrader valve on the bottom that will let you pressurise the bladder.. Some guys do this differently but I put the exact same psi in the bladder as I run the boiler, so if my pressure reducing valve is set at 15 psi I make sure the tank has 15psi in it... Also these tanks need to be properly sized, too small is almost as good as not having it there and too big, well I don't know what that would do but I would rather have too big since the only down side I can think of is cost...

So if the expansion tank is properly sized, has the proper pressure in its undamaged baffle, and is properly installed you can move on to the next issue...

Pumping, you could have an issue with your pump size and location, I know its rare but I have seen people try to fix heating issues with LARGE pumps, these pumps can raise your pressure and or suck extra water into your boiler through your feed valve.....

So after all of that is checked,
your feed valve is working properly and positively shut off at your desired temp
your boiler is heating to a stable temp {180* not 255}
your boiler is not getting "street" pressure, there is no way for water above 15 psi to enter
your expansion tank is sized, installed, and pressurised correctly in working order
your pumps are sized, installed, and working correctly

if you can still watch your psi raise to and over 30 psi opening your relief valve, then you found a problem that I have never seen before...

I have had techs call me from other companies {and my own} and say " I don't get it, I installed a brand new ball valve on the feed and shut it, I installed a brand new ex60 expansion tank and set the psi perfectly, I shut the tankless rite off with brand new ball valves, and its still pops the prv off"??? I take a ride over and look at the piping, there is the culprit a check valve in the header and one bwrds built into the circulator locking out the expansion tank...

Smart to wait for the rite weather

@ April 14, 2014 12:20 PM in Need help heating/pumping Six Oil

Don't rule out the power of the sun, the tubing idea and small pump would no doubt heat that tank, I have seen solar pool heater array that could boil the water in the jacuzzi, it got so hot the tubing flattened out and stopped the flow, sunny 85 degree new england day, tried to pick up the tubing with a stick and it was just stretching around the stick... They had to cool it with garden hoses...

Can you post a drawing of how you wired it?

@ April 14, 2014 11:54 AM in Two Circs - TT Prestige Excellence

I am not near my desk where my manuals are but if I am thinking about this correctly...

buy this http://www.rakuten.com/prod/taco-sr5024-zoning-control-2-zone/262841037.html?listingId=337898830&scid=pla_google_Zoro&adid=18179&gclid=CKDix82q4L0CFWxp7AodUQgA3A to multi zone your excellence...

wire constant/service 120 to the taco control white and black
wire your 2 heat zone stats to the tstat terminals in your taco control, then your pumps to the pump terminals in your taco control...
wire the end switch {TT} terminals to your "ch1 tstat" terminals in your boiler

Done... Leave everything else alone, all the factory wiring for your excellence is done for you...

Another option is to use zone valves, 2 zone valves and a single pump will work with the excellence, but it will be easier and cheaper for you to just buy a taco sr5024 and it will work better {I LIKE pumps for zoning}....


so just to confirm, the only wires you introduce to your excellence are-
18-2 for ODR sensor
14-2 for supply voltage
18-2 for end switch from sr5024

THATS IT, rip everything else that the factory didnt put there out... I have installed almost 2 dozen of these bad larrys, you bought the rite boiler.... Now just go grab the rite zone controller {I would buy a 3 or 4 zone incase you ever want to add a zone, but the 2 will do what you want}...

Good luck and enjoy...

I use....

@ April 13, 2014 9:21 PM in AC cleaning condensor coils - inner side seems dirty

the foaming cleaner with my goodway coil pro machine {mine is the cc600, they have a bunch of them now, even battery powered}... flip the service disc., pull the top and the fan out, soak the coil and straighten any bent fins, apply the foamer, rinse with the coil pro restraighten any bent fins, install fan assembly, and reapply power, done...

swei thats because we are fitters, lol

@ April 12, 2014 8:35 PM in Need help heating/pumping Six Oil

hydronics is my go to remedy for almost any problem...

But imagine the mess it will be cleaning all that tubing............... I wonder what the best way to figure out how much tubing and temp you would need to raise that kind of mass 2 degrees an hour, I was thinking with the sun heating up some tubing and a simple pump moving the fluid it would be almost free and just time consuming and messy... just get a couple thousand foot coils of radiant tubing, and a little pony pump to circulate it, let the sun do its job on a hot day with no clouds that water will get so hot the pex will fall into the oil and it will be boiling in no time.. there is no boiler stronger than the sun..

I spoke with the gentleman at the school

@ April 12, 2014 8:22 PM in Are you in the market for a Thermal Imager?

who taught the class I took years ago when I bought my first Flirs, we still keep in touch, he knew of the hack situation and I asked if it was illegal, and he said no, that is why they are allowed to sell hacked models on ebay, if it were illegal ebay would kick them instantly.. He compared it to a hacked playstation that can play the new and used games, no cr infringement, just changing a product you bought and paid for to better fit your needs...

So while it is not illegal, it is like I said a gray area, kind of like dubbing music for your friends, not selling it, but stopping them from needed to buy it, not illegal but morally questionable...

This is not a new hack they have been doing it for months now, the rep from VT said they would have never sold so many if it were not for the hack, he seemed to think it was planned by Flir to increase sales, people that would have never even bought the e4 bought it because they got such a good deal, and the price difference from the e6 to the e8 kind of enforces that, $2500 and then the next model up is $6000, Flir marketing may just be genius, if it is true, because they sold a lot more units than they would have if it wasnt hacked... He said they ramped up production to keep up with the instant demand!!!!

So all that aside, I just wanted to let everyone know if they were on the fence about a ti or need a new one, that is a great deal for a unit with that kind of image...

I have a ddsm1

@ April 12, 2014 5:29 PM in draft simulator

I never use it {maybe once a year}, I just run the unit with the manometer hooked up, if I see it locks out and had enough pressure to close the switch and all the lines are clear then I will change the switch... I good manometer and multi meter are much more important than any fancy pump will ever be.. but we do love tools..

I dont know of anything like that

@ April 12, 2014 4:44 PM in Need help heating/pumping Six Oil

Like I said I would wait for a hot day {after a week of hot days}, and put a couple million btus of propane heaters under and around the tank, watch the temps... you can get trash can heaters that are around 200k btus each for $100 or so, 10 of them should be more than enough to get you up to 110 degrees on a 90 degree day...
We have done it, one thing to watch is the temp, we learned the hard way that as the oil pumped out it continued to heat up even after the units were shut off, we had the tank very close to the flash point, but no tragedies happened so all was well...

May be best to call a pro and have it dealt with, Im sure DEM would have a field day if there were no hazmat pros in the yard while this was taking place...


Im not sure what your budget is, what the tank looks like or anything like that but what you are looking for is an Immersion heater, they are normally electric Omega, chomolox, indeeco, and a hundred other companies make and sell them, but they are not cheap, for 1 time use I would be looking into other ways to get it done...
Like I said I am not sure what you have at your disposal, we just know the end game, you have a monster tank, with A LOT of the worst oil in the world to deal with inside it. If someone approached me with this task, they would most likely pass out at the price tag it commanded...

But for getting it done there are a ton of options, you can heat the outside of the tank, you can get electric submersibles, you can drown tubing and run hot water through it.. I think the cheapest way to do it would be to wait for a hot day {let the sun do the bulk of the work} and drown a bunch of hose tubing in the tank put a pump in that tubing {outside the tank} and a bunch of the tubing outside on the ground in the sun, let the sun heat it and circulate through the tubing and back though the tank and back through the solar tubing, its gonna take a while....

LOL, let me know if that works, I am curious..

Are you in the market for a Thermal Imager? $5000 off msrp

@ April 12, 2014 3:42 PM in Are you in the market for a Thermal Imager?

For those that are interested please be aware that it is in an ethical gray area, you can get a $6000 Flir E8 320x240 camera for $900...

Ill give a little background, the flir e series offers a base model E4 and their flagship {for that series} the E8. They look identical except for the badges that say 4 or 8. Every single other internal and external part is identically the same between the $900 and $6000 unit, except the programming, the e4 has programming to "cripple" it to 80x60 which if you know TI equipment, is meager at best, it wont show much and very little quality, BUT 320x240 is amazing, and will show everything, it is an astounding difference... Flir saved money by making the same camera for the entire series and programmed each model except the e8 to be less than what they actually are..

Think of it as if chevrolet used the same engine in their Sonic and their Corvette except the Sonic comes with an ecm that only lets it output 140hp and the vette is full open at 500hp {just an example, dont go buy a sonic and think it will be a corvette with a firmware hack}...

So a friend of mine also in the hvac field owns a hacked e4, I seen it first hand today, the picture is better than my $8000 Camera {I bought it a while back}. This is very interesting and I figured I would share it, I am on the fence on if I am going to get one or not, I already have 3 others and they work well {none of them were $900 though, I wish}... I spoke with the rep I deal with at Value Testers {great place to buy everything from combustion analyzers to ti cams and any other hvac electronics} and he will sell the e4 for $895, thats $100 cheaper than any other place I have found.... You can buy them already hacked on ebay for $1500, but he said it takes 10 minutes to do... There are instructions on youtube available...

So if anyone is interested, let me know if you need any more info if I know the answer I will give it. Like I said its kind of an ethical gray area, but if that doesn't bother you it may be a good opportunity to get more than you pay for a change...

One more note, you need to keep a copy of the original firmware so that if you need to use the warranty you can revert to it so Flir will cover your unit for repair... I have had great luck with my Flir cams, the only thing I don't like about them is the price, but as for what they allow me to do and the time they save me, its well worth it...

Get the sawzall warmed up

@ April 12, 2014 1:52 PM in Multicirculator/Multizone

I did this before with a lot of wasted energy and time, repipe it how you know it will work save the aggravation...

I had a system with some serious piping issues, some one started with the wrong ideas and then others added zones and water heaters and long story short a couple decades later when it needed a boiler I walked in, and swapped the boiler for what was there instead of asking how everything worked {which I now do} I just swapped out the boiler and thought I could call it a day.... nope, now all of these issues like slow heat in some zones, flow through zones that were not calling when others did, ect ect ect came to my attention, so I tried to fix it with band aids, a couple large zone valves, a check valve here and there with some globe valves here and there..
I just wasted more time, the end result was rip it out and repipe it the correct way, and i never had a problem again, now if I was smart enough back then to look at it, see potential problems and ask if they were indeed issues previously, I would have saved myself thousands and many hours and head scratching, I still have a couple 2 " globe valves from that job sitting on the shelf as well as a $1200 grundfos pump that was one of my last efforts.. some day I will use them, but until then they sit on a shelf collecting dust, way out of warranty..

I agree with Paul,

@ April 12, 2014 1:41 PM in who is this Mr Pex guy

you didn't lose the job because of the materials...

I noticed with the exception of a few companies, the prices of equipment between brands are closer than most assume... I can buy a 95% goodman or airtemp unit for around 15% less than a Carrier or Trane but the cost for me to install them is almost identical... So if {for round numbers} and a furnace cost $1000 the other materials were 1000 and I charged $2000 to install it, buying a more expensive furnace would only cost an extra $150... Now does it always work that way? probably not, does the homeowner always pick the least expensive proposal ? probably not... I learned long ago not to get hurt feelings for losing a bid, just move on to the next one, do good work, and your customers will get good value..

I will sometimes give a customer 2 or 3 price ranges, one is using the least expensive materials and for lack of a better term "cutting the corners" that can be cut with out sacrificing safety or code conformity...
for example- I could install a steel drybase boiler with a tankless water heater, no isolation flanges, no unions, reusing as much of their existing system as possible... for x amount...

or I could install a cast iron wetbase with a coil, iso flanges, all new parts and near boiler piping, ect for XX amount

or I can install a triple pass boiler with an indirect, iso flanges, primary secondary piping, ODR kit, outdoor air intake, all new parts and near boiler piping, ect for XXX amount...

its up to the customer to compare apples to apples...

Another way to do proposals {I dont do it because it gets confusing, but I have friends that prefer it, is to rite abse proposal and then add on items, so you can start at $3000, then add a b and c for an additional 1000 1400 1800 ect...

I find the best way to get proposals signed is to talk to the customer, hand deliver proposals, check jobs your self {as the owner of the company}, shake their hand and explain the difference in person from your work and the competitions...

But anyway, sell what you are comfortable with and have experience with, explain to your customer that you install brand X and have X amount of experience with it and will not change materials on them just to save a few bucks...

I have installed 2 of them

@ April 12, 2014 11:12 AM in Aprilaire Resedential Steam humidifier 800 Fire

but they were bought by the customer... I remember their series 5000 air cleaner units were recalled for catching fire too...

I like the honeywell true steam, I think they are going to be the "go to" humidifier for me, I recently got back a proposal for 2 Armstrong 97mv's with 2 tru steams, 2 ec1 coils, and 2 18ls heatpumps, the customer specifically asked for aprilaire steam humidifiers and filters but I talked them into the honeywells {with out mentioning the fire issue, lol}, and standard aluminum body electrostatic {washable} x1" filters...

EQUIPMENT EQUIPMENT EQUIPMENT

@ April 12, 2014 8:50 AM in how do you heatloss: tips and tricks anyone?

Tools for the job...
I'm sure others in the field use them, but my Leica d8 cuts down the time it takes me to gather measurements immensely. A friend of mine turned me onto the products when he got home from visiting an hvac "convention" in germany a while back, I tried his and fell in love... He just got a newer version d810 and I may be upgrading soon, after he brings it by for me to play with...

This allows me to get my outside wall, glass, and door numbers from outside the house, so then when I go in I only need to get ceiling heights, R-vals, ect. Then it blue tooths the numbers to my pc so no writing everything down and fumbling with tape measures, pads, pencils, ect..
I used to bring a helper, and spend minimum of an hour gathering info, now I go by myself and it takes me 20 minutes or less... So even though these things are expensive {I think I paid $500} they save me from bringing a helper so figure an hour of drive time, and hour of info and 30 minutes of customer chatting saves me 2.5 hrs of paid labor {around $40} not to mention saves me time at the job. Do this 12 times and it paid for itselfs, considering I have used it hundreds of times it is now making me money...

Thats the only trick I can think of, besides the obvious like measure one of each window and or door of the same size {most houses use the same size windows over and over, no sense measuring them all} and bring a compass so you know which walls face where, also the EDR book by DH helps {not specifically in the heatloss department but when trying to figure out emitter output its a must}..

Thats all I got, if you are going to do a lot of heatlosses and your time is usually already spoken for year round like mine is, spend a few bucks, get a designated PC or tablet for your proposals and job info, get a wireless bluetooth printer {office jet 150, is awesome to keep in the truck}, get a decent bluetooth distometer, tripod, the EDR book, and maybe if you have any money left over a Flir I7 and a cheap inspection camera {you can get borescopes for under $200 now or if you use a pc, you can get a usb model for $15 http://www.amazon.com/Waterproof-Endoscope-Borescope-Inspection-Camera/dp/B007UZ6RVO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1397306481&sr=8-1&keywords=camera+snake }.

So you arrive to the customers house, you can gather all kinds of info before entering, do a quick TI scan of the outside walls and roof so you know if there are any leakage/ insulation problems, snap some pics if there are so you can show the customer, take the rest of your measurements, offer to do a fast chimney inspection {hence the borescope/camera}, maybe a fast efficiency test while you are there... Then go out to your truck, print their name/address/proposal number on an envelope, while you draw up your proposal call in for prices and availability if you need to, print the proposal and bring it back inside to them, you can put ti pictures of their home on it, measurement sketches from your leica, ect..

Another thing to think about is energy audits, the real reason I have this equipment, I charge X amount to do a building energy audit, comes with business cards from my insulation company, my chimney guy, window and door guy, since I have been in building a while I have some good contacts and customers appreciate that... Your knowledge about energy and buildings can be more useful than you think...

I also include some pre printed information docs that tell customers about oversized heating equipment, out door resets, DHW facts, ect...

One more note, not every job needs this kind of attention, I pull up to a property and can tell which units I would install, since I deal with certain brands and models, I know which is going to fit, the heatloss confirms it but some I can do super fast {I can just count the windows, get the walls, sq ft, ect and leave}, and some require a lot of time and effort..
A small 1960's cape, where I have walked into the almost identical house a thousand times, and the customer has base board with an oil boiler wants to switch to gas, I know which boiler I am going to use and which size.
But a 4000 sq ft craftsman with 20 ft ceilings, bay windows, radiant in some parts, hydro airs in others will need an accurate heatloss done... Im not saying that with a smaller cookie cutter house my numbers aren't accurate, but I know where i am going to end up, check a few things to confirm it and be on your way... I am not saying "rule of thumb it" I am just saying, if you have been there a bunch of times, and know what is rite, you can save yourself some time....
I did a proposal this week for a 2000 sq ft ranch, I put 3 boilers in this neighborhood in the last 2 years, the houses are almost identical and all are within 1000 BTUs of each other, and since we can not order boilers custom made for our heat loads, I know these houses get 3 section owb's and I will fire them as close to my needed btu as possible, a change of end cone, nozzle, and pump psi will get you there for $20 and 20 minutes... Then there are so tight and or small that you will need to make the boiler oversized to get them hot water {indirects}, I have done many houses that needed 30K BTU's, no mod con budget or maybe no gas at all, and as you know some boilers dont get that small and when you use an indirect getting one that will work well with low btus like that is tough especially if they need a lot of hot water...

Anyway, Ill stop there before this turns into a book, I think the point I was trying to make is experience and common sense will also save you a bunch of time...

Is this just a 1 time project?

@ April 12, 2014 12:05 AM in Need help heating/pumping Six Oil

They make heaters, and I am surprised there is no heater already in the tank.. Years ago we had to pump 5500 gallons of 4 oil out of a tank into a trailer tanker, the tank had heaters in disrepair, and its pumping system was long gone, the oil had been there for a long time and the building was sold and the tanks had to be emptied and removed before they would close...

Im not sure how legal it was or how safe but we heated the tank with propane and k1 bullet heaters, monitoring the temps to make sure we didnt get near the flash point, which we never came close to, I think 4 oil is 140 degrees and 6 oil is 150 degrees..

Thats a big tank to heat up, I would schedule to pump it out on a hot day, a nice 95 degree sunny day will make it much easier to heat that oil the few degrees needed to deal with the viscosity issues it is prone to. I don't envy you for this task, just thinking about the smell of that fuel turns my stomach...

venting

@ April 11, 2014 11:50 PM in My first worn out Rinnai unit...

with the non condensing units the dual purpose single vent pipe is the best method to vent the Rinnai units.. With the ultras you can use the concentric adapter and use pvchttp://ecomfort.com/ubbink-concentric-to-pvc-twin-pipe-adaptor-4--94107.html , but I like the single pipe system. I have heard some contractors complain about the venting cost, but say worse case you are going from the basement to the roof of a 3 story building you will spend less than a ss chimney liner costs..

Often I use the chimney as a chase, I vented a solo boiler and a rinnai unit through a chimney together last summer, custom made a chimney cap that separated and stabilised all the tubing, it worked out very well... I never get too worried about venting, I know with old construction and windows everywhere it takes some thinking, but its never impossible...
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