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heatpro02920

heatpro02920

Joined on January 28, 2013

Last Post on June 25, 2014

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Ummm.

@ April 5, 2013 8:56 PM in More efficient water heater.

I think he seen that at home depot, they have been selling them for 5 years, lol...

Hmmm, swapping an alp150 for an alp080?

@ April 5, 2013 8:54 PM in Pumping Awa Question

That boiler is over $1100 less boiler.. you are obviously not happy with the boiler install and its good they are willing to return and make it rite, but chances are you are going to end up with less than you have rite now... I think I would keep the oversized boiler unless I was getting the price difference back.... But on the other had I would rather have aboiler that mods down to 16K vs 30K depending on the zone sizes and styles {a hydro air sucks the heat out of your loops fast but a radiant circuit is slower}...

If they are willing to repipe, have them use bumble bee circs and an alpha 15-55 on the primary, I like to pull the DHW circ and return off of the primary loop before the closely spaced tees, and change then have them locate the vent where you want it and what ever else you found wrong, then maybe it would be worth the swap to the smaller unit...
Alpines are decent units, I always installed the gb's over them and now the TT solos, but its a well made good looking unit...

Hmmm, swapping an alp150 for an alp080?

@ April 5, 2013 8:53 PM in Pumping Awa Question

That boiler is over $1100 less boiler.. you are obviously not happy with the boiler install and its good they are willing to return and make it rite, but chances are you are going to end up with less than you have rite now... I think I would keep the oversized boiler unless I was getting the price difference back.... But on the other had I would rather have aboiler that mods down to 16K vs 30K depending on the zone sizes and styles {a hydro air sucks the heat out of your loops fast but a radiant circuit is slower}...

If they are willing to repipe, have them use bumble bee circs and an alpha 15-55 on the primary, I like to pull the DHW circ and return off of the primary loop before the closely spaced tees, and change then have them locate the vent where you want it and what ever else you found wrong, then maybe it would be worth the swap to the smaller unit...
Alpines are decent units, I always installed the gb's over them and now the TT solos, but its a well made good looking unit...

terrible stuff

@ April 5, 2013 7:19 AM in Colorado Monoxide Case Moves Toward Trial

you need to follow the rules when it comes to CO, always clean, prime, and glue your joints, always install a hard wired CO {not wired into the boiler circuit}, always hang the boiler well, and hang your pipes secure, always follow the spacing requirements, ect... And you still can't bet your life that nothing will fail and someone will get hurt or worse... I have seen some crazy practices, and always think to myself, "if these contractors don't care about their customers safety, don't they realize they will go to jail and lose everything if they hurt someone else"....
I am reminded of the picture that used to hang in RE micheals of the Pressure relief valve coming off the boiler and pointing down into a toy box full of toys {about 3ft off the ground}

T-stat technology

@ April 5, 2013 7:12 AM in Pumping Awa Question

is just starting to come around, I would like to see something with a central panel and wireless sensors for each zone, internet connectivity for smart phone control, wireless hello/goodby switches {being able to push a button on your way out the door and having your t-stat drop back to a lower temp and then when you are on your way back pushing a button on your cell phone to turn it back on so its warm by the time you get home}, also a smart control that managed boiler run times would be nice -comfort may suffer a bit, but having a control that will manage your run times with some degree of "thinking" would be nice, so if all zones are set to 70* and one falls down to 69.0, and another is 69.6 with the rest 70* it will wait until all fall down before it kicks the boiler on {to a maximum setpoint, say 1.9*}, then once the boiler is on it will heat all zones to 70.9 even if they were already at 70.0 when the first cold zone called...

I read an article a while back, that showed a "smart" hydronic system, every room was on its own zone with 3 way zone valves all over the place, the system would divert warm return water to other rooms, run the system forwards and backwards, send exactly the needed temp and quantity of water to each zone as it was needed, all running off of 2 mod/cons {they were different sizes} and it showed one {the smaller of the two} could mod down to 6K BTU's {which matched the smallest zones heat loss on an average winter day instead of our design day}. But what interested me was the smaller boiler had a heatpump feature to satisfy the low heat needs... This was a drawn out system, nothing in production, and I believe it was Burnhams ideas...

I like how you talk

@ April 4, 2013 8:15 PM in Pumping Awa Question

sounds smott... lol, If you are ever in CT, RI, MA area I'm giving you a job, Swei, lol

lol I noticed the m's

@ April 4, 2013 8:12 PM in Heating a 5 x 10m room to constant 48 degrees

that's why i stared clear of this one, lol... Too much math for me, I have a hard enough time keeping track of inches and feet, never mind that guy Newton Metre and his sister Joule..

I would say the best way to heat a room like this is with constant air circulation a good old fashioned hydro air powered by a modulating condensing boiler, install a bumble bee with the sensor in the duct work, a little creative control setup and you will keep that room +-1/2*.... Just have to figure out the heat loss.... I would use a first co variable spped unit and install a heat pump on the A coil, this way when it was 50+ out side you would be running very efficient.... And you would have A/c for days it was needed.....
Figure a Traingle Tube Solo 110 with a 5 ton HXBX first co and an armstrong hp18lt heat pump would be a good start, but that stuffs not cheap...

Which unit

@ April 4, 2013 7:57 PM in Ground water temp for On-demand hotwater in Alaska

There are simple ways to raise the temp but which is going to make sense?

What unit do you have {link me}?
Natural gas propane?

What is your incoming temp?

Most gas tankless units don't like high incoming temps and with a plate exchanger you will get high temps, even if you pipe it on the boiler return {and you need to be careful not to cool the return too much}...

I am thinking you need a larger tankless unit... its easy to figure out, how many gpm do you use, what is your incoming temp, and what outgoing temp do you want?

My water comes in around 45* and my tankless is set at 115 in the winter thats a 70 degree delta.... which a larger tankless 199K btu unit should make around 5.5gpm {ru98i}... So even if you come in 33* and wanted 120 an ru98i would give you over 4 gpm.... That's still a lot of hot water, that's a shower and a couple faucets running full hot...

that may be a better option than preheating the water, plate exchangers aren't the longest lasting pieces of equipment and they aren't real cheap {plus you should get one marked nsf or for potable water, low lead}...

In my hunting cabin I only have a tiny electric water heater and the incoming water is COLD, so I run the water through a piece of baseboard near the wood stove before it goes to the water heater, it works really good... But when I take heating buddies up hunting, they always ask why I have baseboard 7 feet off the foor....

Also look into high sierra shower heads, I love these things... they stretch your hot water out a lot...

Down draft

@ April 4, 2013 7:32 PM in If you were designing a heating system for dream house/dream shop, what would it be and what design tweaks would you take to maximize efficiency?

This could get tricky with in slab radiant, but a nice down draft system would be ideal.

I designed one in a small building, I used a down draft grate along 2 of the outside walls {similar to a floor drain 9"s wide X 12 feet long strong enough to drive a car on}, then used a pair of fan units and a pair of HRV units for makeup air {which also recovered the heat energy of the outgoing air} ... It was a home garage 3 car that he used for building custom cabinets and between the fumes and dust his wife didnt want him doing it in the new house so when he was building he had me do the system to see if it would help, I made no promises but it has worked out better than even I expected... I originally installed air filter on the outside so he didnt blow dust in his driveway, but they were clogging too fast, so we installed some strategically bent sheet metal and a 50 gallon drum, kind of like a trap and drop system, worked good, but I can't take credit for the dust trap system that was all my empolyees doing, he seen it before when he worked on restaurant grease traps years ago...

I wan't to see more pics

@ April 4, 2013 4:33 PM in Pumping Awa Question

Paul I see more and more guys using zone valves over circulators, but I just can not bring myself to make the jump, sure I use a lot of zone valves in my jobs, but on the mid to high end jobs I almost always use circulators, either alphas, bumble bees or delta t's, ect... I know a lot of guys mention the power usage but for the amount all the zones are calling at once and the power zone valves use, I cant imagine the power savings are very much.... I like a bumble bee on every zone....

OP, now you see how most pros are going to do things different, it happens every job, sometimes my guys will finish a job and Ill walk in and say I wouldn't have done that, that way, is it worth changing {hardly ever} will it work, yep, just not the way I would have done it....

Heres the thing?

@ April 4, 2013 9:30 AM in Pumping Awa Question

We all install things differently, that being said I have seen thousands of systems with circs on the return side {some guys swear by the practice, because it allows the circulators to operate under cooler conditions} and them systems have worked for a long time... What I am trying to say is sometimes there are 3 ways to get something to work, the rite way, the wrong way and the way you wouldn't have done it, but all 3 ways can work....

Now I have had customers call me after an install and tell me I didn't do it rite because "their cousin is a plumber" or they "read on the internet" or they "seen at their friends house" and I can tell you first hand its not a good feeling. It doesn't happen often but through out the years it has happened... I just had a women call me because when she ran out of oil {on a boiler I installed 4 years ago} and had to get her boiler primed the oil truck driver that primed it said that I should have installed a filter at the burner {which is non sense}, but it still got me a call that I had to deal with, I explained that I like to filter the oil before the oil line as close to the tank as possible and the way I did the install was to the best of my experience and education... It was good enough for her, but its a pain in the ass... And the other thing is I was not going over to change it unless she wanted to pay me to do so...

Anyway now onto your system, can we have some more info and pictures? What kind of system is it{forced hot water, radiant, ect?}, what boiler, ect?

Pics of the boiler and piping would help a lot...

As far as PS piping, I just stated in another post about this, everyone has their own method.... If it is going to create a lot of extra fittings, I wont space my 90's out of the closely spaced tees and the systems always work and work good, I have done it both by the book and by the job and both work the same... Now on the other hand I have also seen it piped wrong and not work... sooooo... which is yours?

Spare parts?

@ April 3, 2013 2:01 PM in Spare parts for Carlin EZ-Gas Burner

I guess if you have the spare money it can't hurt, but where do you draw the line, a replacement burner motor, ignitor, gas valve, Primary control, APS, there isn't much to the burner and not many parts that are cheap enough to throw in a box "just incase". For $600 you can buy an entire new burner, where $600 in separate parts isn't going to get you everything....


As far as parts not being available, I don't see that happening, its all pretty basic stuff...

If you burner is in good shape, the best thing you can do to be proactive about service is yearly maintenance, get the unit cleaned tuned and checked out by a decent pro each year and you will be fine...

If no one is

@ April 2, 2013 6:06 AM in American Standard Arcoliner Hot Water Boiler Maintenance

occupying the building and the outside temps are not below 32* I would shut the system down, why heat the house when no one is there?

Which utica

@ April 1, 2013 8:26 PM in Hot water loop off steam boiler

Star fire 3?

Take some pics...

I do this different depending on whats there, I just did one, I pulled off of the drain {installed a tee where the drain was} and into the return pipe {cut the pipe coming out of the boiler install a tee}... I have seen them all different ways including the glass gauge ports, but not the best idea... I have even seen them piped back in the pop safety.... not rite..

if its not broke don't fix it, unless its almost broke & I don't wanna come back later.

@ April 1, 2013 8:19 PM in brazed fittings ok for oil line?

I have a customer with severe OCD, and when I installed his oil line which was a roll of encapped' orange oil line, he couldnt stand how it didnt look straight like the rest of the install, and asked me if I could make it straight, and it was very straight, I go out of my way to make sure everything is straight, I unroll the copper tubing in a corner of the foundation to make sure htere are no bendy wangs' in there... Well he hated it, I ended up running conduit {THREADED conduit!} with the oil line inside it and braided connections to the tank and burner.... I went out of my way to get a 20ft length for the long run so there was no joints, when we were done it looked really nice, and he later came down and painted it Blue to match his Buderus boiler... {I gave him the paint, I paint all my circs to match the Buderus units on the higher end installs, I used to do the expansion tanks too, but they wouldnt warranty one I painted so I stopped}... But moral of the story is, if it looks good, doesn't leak, and works, leave it alone...

if its not broke don't fix it, unless its almost broke & I don't wanna come back later.

@ April 1, 2013 8:19 PM in brazed fittings ok for oil line?

I have a customer with severe OCD, and when I installed his oil line which was a roll of encapped' orange oil line, he couldnt stand how it didnt look straight like the rest of the install, and asked me if I could make it straight, and it was very straight, I go out of my way to make sure everything is straight, I unroll the copper tubing in a corner of the foundation to make sure htere are no bendy wangs' in there... Well he hated it, I ended up running conduit {THREADED conduit!} with the oil line inside it and braided connections to the tank and burner.... I went out of my way to get a 20ft length for the long run so there was no joints, when we were done it looked really nice, and he later came down and painted it Blue to match his Buderus boiler... {I gave him the paint, I paint all my circs to match the Buderus units on the higher end installs, I used to do the expansion tanks too, but they wouldnt warranty one I painted so I stopped}... But moral of the story is, if it looks good, doesn't leak, and works, leave it alone...

line insulation

@ April 1, 2013 8:07 PM in Help identifying what I've got

Are these copper lines or PEX? I don't think it is going to be labor and cost smart to insulate the lines, I obviously would have to take the ambiant temps and do the math but Im sure your not losing a ton of energy through the lines.. I say this knowing you still have to insulate the un-insulated portion of the climate controlled living space, that is where your labor and money is going to be best spent.... Even if you don't use the space much, it is most likely still sucking the heat out of the other portions of the house...

Now for the "new" problem, this could be anything from a faulty t-stat to a sticking control, I don't know if you are saying just the fan was running or the circulator and fan, I also do not know how it is wired, I have seen this done a lot of different ways, 120v t-stat controlling the fan and circulator, lv t-stat controlling a switching relay feeding the circulator and a 120v aquastat controlling the fan, ect.. Is it still running now?

just examples

@ April 1, 2013 4:07 PM in Too many options - need help

I said for example, them aren't real prices, just examples.... Round numbers for the sake of argument, thats all...

I'm not sure

@ April 1, 2013 4:05 PM in brazed fittings ok for oil line?

about codes and if it is OK to use brazed fittings, while I wouldn't do it, because it would take longer, cost more, and be much more work than doing it the "rite" way... I would think it should be fine, as long as someone did a good job with tight joints it should last a long time... I dont think the oil harm the joints and there is no real pressure to speak of, after all I braze joints in refrigeration systems that see 400+psi and never budge....

Not all pros are bad, lol..

@ April 1, 2013 3:52 PM in Help identifying what I've got

Just use common sense, get someone that has been around a while, will show you pics of his work, let you talk to past customers, ect... But most of them time you can tell by a fast conversation..

Like I said I wouldn't try to sell you a repipe, I would address your cold bathroom issue by giving you a handful of options, telling you the pros cons and prices of each, then I would tell you "look if you want to spend money on the system, I wouldnt spend it repiping, I would spend it upgrading your control and circulators"

If you get a pro there that says, "oh no you need to do this that and repipe the primary and move this to hear and add this, and its $3000 before even mentioning the actual problem, then you may be on the wrong track, although it would be nice to see they know whats wrong you have to ask, what am I going to gain by correcting it besides plumbers that see it knowing it was done by the book?

WOW

@ March 31, 2013 8:30 PM in Calculating propane for tankless

you get 1-2$ cheaper!!! I own my own tanks and save 50 cents per gallon, I know what we pay is cheap, but if they would take off $2 a gallon, they would be paying me, lol.... I just got filled, and it was 388 gallons at $1.97 per gallon... I think they owe me a few bucks, lol...

I know some lp companies out there are silly with the prices, so it is definitely possible, honsetly even .50 a gallon is tough to swallow...

Rebates aren't all that high compared to...

@ March 31, 2013 8:26 PM in Too many options - need help

what the equipment costs, just for example say I install a direct vented Weil McLain CGs3 with ODR and one delta t circ for $4350 a solo 60 mod con with the similar install will start at almost $8000 almost double, rebates are not normally that high.... These are not real prices just for examples, I am much more expensive than that :)

Also keep in mind I believe the fed rebates were 1 time only $1500 max for all energy upgrades, in other words -doors, insulation, boilers, windows, water heaters, ect... and it is 1 time only so you can not get it every year, just once...

now your local utilities are a different story although I don't see as many as in previous years, I got a fax the other day it said something about $15 rebate for programable tstat, $475 for high efficiency furnace, ect not that attractive to me....
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