Joined on April 16, 2013
Last Post on March 25, 2014
@ March 25, 2014 6:11 AM in two 2.5 ton heat pumps for one 5 ton heat pumpThis is a horrible idea, an application nightmare, and a frivolous waste of money and resources. Twinning normally works the other way; one OD unit on two furnaces and one large evaporator.
We need to get your load squared away before looking at more equipment options, especially those that lead you farther and farther away from the comfort and economy for which you're looking.
@ March 21, 2014 6:27 AM in High efficiengy heat pump connected to a single stage blowerI have some real and deep concerns for you. Some regional "magic numbers" don't address your house, which, as do you, has it's own "personality." For example, just one 3' x 4' window of reasonable quality can raise your summer load by almost 500 BTUH. Tell me how magic numbers show house details! We need to do a proper load; I will be happy to run one for you. I will need a bucketload of info, so you can ping me directly if you want.
Don't fall for the R-22 trap, and NEVER use an existing coil, unless five years old or less and is an APPROVED match after a TXV swap!
@ March 20, 2014 12:07 PM in Help NeededLooking for a plumber with NJ Public Works certification. DPMC a huge plus!
@ March 19, 2014 9:00 AM in High efficiengy heat pump connected to a single stage blowerNEVER size a HP to heating! Your load should be one BTUH value based on weather station, building materials, glazing, insulation, doors, walls, roof, etc. What load calculation program are you using?
@ March 18, 2014 7:23 PM in High efficiengy heat pump connected to a single stage blowerFirst of all, you need to size your heat pump for the cooling load, not heating. In the winter the HP has support from your oil furnace. You won't dehumidify in the summer sizing to your heat loss. You need a factory match with your ID and OD coils, as well as tubing. How did you end up with a huge cooling size (5-tons) if your heat loss is only 40,000 BTUH?
@ March 18, 2014 5:58 AM in High efficiengy heat pump connected to a single stage blowerOn behalf of all of us, you are most welcome! What is the HSPF of your unit choice? Just landing on a SEER rating says nothing about heating. Then you have two balance points to consider; economic and thermal, so you can optimize the hidden benefits of your heat pump. You have a little work yet to do, and we will help you through it. This is the fun stuff!
@ March 17, 2014 7:36 AM in High efficiengy heat pump connected to a single stage blowerNo. The Y circuit is the compressor contactor. The comfort control simultaneously makes contact to the fan circuit (G). What you're missing (see earlier posts) is the two compressor signals from Y and Y2, or similar markings, such as Y1, YLO, etc. This control scheme has to be built in to achieve your certifications and ratings.
@ March 17, 2014 7:24 AM in Heat pump only, or combo?Your electric costs are 4 times the national average? Something doesn't seem right.
@ March 15, 2014 10:24 PM in High efficiengy heat pump connected to a single stage blowerIt's not the motor; it's the control system that stages speeds. The Evergreen does have speed taps, yet only one can be used at a time. It doesn't jump from tap to tap. You would have to have a variable speed ECM to do that.
@ March 15, 2014 10:19 PM in High efficiengy heat pump connected to a single stage blowerBy default, the thermostat signal for compressor operation (Y) goes to the highest speed you have set. The heat pump is "stupid" as it doesn't know if it's heating or cooling; that's the reversing valve's job, so you get the same speed both summer and winter. Depending on when you're in restricted mode, your furnace will operate on the heating speed set by you or the factory setting if you haven't changed it.
@ March 13, 2014 10:15 PM in High efficiengy heat pump connected to a single stage blowerFantastic motor, yet not intended for 2-stage applications.
@ March 13, 2014 11:23 AM in High efficiengy heat pump connected to a single stage blowerThis is your second stage cooling signal from the comfort control. There are a litany of reasons why you need an AHRI matched system; efficiency, performance, and comfort are just a few. Understand that when the CC calls for 2nd stage, the blower and outdoor fan ramp up to match the higher compressor output, so without this feature you have wasted a bucketload of cash in a two-stage HP that will never live up to expectations.
@ March 11, 2014 4:19 PM in High efficiengy heat pump connected to a single stage blowerYou're better off using a single stage heat pump with your existing furnace.
@ March 8, 2014 6:24 PM in High efficiengy heat pump connected to a single stage blowerCan you connect to a single speed blower? Yes. Is it a good idea? No. You'll have to hook up Y2, losing the 1st stage and the benefits therein.
@ March 3, 2014 1:29 PM in What's wrong with this?It is the evaporator's job to convert liquid to gas.
@ March 3, 2014 1:25 PM in furnace problemThe first thing that is not right is the limit. Unless approved by the manufacturer, NEVER raise the cut-out temperature.
Dryness and comfort are independent issues. Check the thermostat reading against a high quality thermometer; the two should be within 3 degrees. Also check your TR and compare to the nameplate. The CFM numbers sound like the cooling dips, not the heating.
Check your RH with a psychrometer; 30% is the lowest on the comfort scale. If you don't have one, cut the tip off a clean white shoe lace, soak it in water, and slip it over the wand of your thermometer for a wet bulb value. You'll have to convert to RH. For example, 63 degrees WB is 50% RH.
@ February 27, 2014 8:20 AM in Apologies!Delivering comfort and economy is all about pressure, and how to manipulate it to your advantage. In the purest sense, the outlet of the blower is the highest pressure while the inlet is the lowest. Evaporator coils can easily be the system component with the highest PD, so you want to account for it where you have the most with which to work (blower outlet). The heat exchanger's PD is included in the blower selected by the manufacturer.
With this in mind, the furnace would have to be raised to get the coil directly underneath, and there are coils and accessory plates expressly for this purpose. Some have left the furnace in place and put the coil in the crawl (a horrible idea). Watch your RA though; raising the furnace for the coil can make changing filters a PIA.
@ February 26, 2014 8:28 PM in Condensate drain trap question:Is it possible you have an ill-conceived secondary drain? Code requires an independent one, yet I have seen many incorrectly tapped off the primary. Also, could the other line be your neighbor's drain?
@ February 26, 2014 7:46 AM in Coil Material Opinions:The blower has to overcome the duct resistance, plus the other pressure drops in the system, to deliver the designed air quantity. This is why many in the industry have the concept backward, residentially. You first have to find a blower that will deliver your required air, take out the PDs from your accessories, and use the remainder to calculate duct friction rate. A flex system will only increase the resistance against the blower, causing high energy use, noise, and substandard comfort, especially if distorted or not accounted for in the design.
@ February 25, 2014 9:13 PM in Coil Material Opinions:My comment was to TonyS (rip it) and was intended to be complimentary for recognizing the value of insulation. You mention two interesting issues: SEER and insulating ducts. First of all, if for example, your electric cost is $0.12/KWh and you have a 3-ton machine, a 14 SEER unit would cost $0.31/hr. while the 16 SEER model would be $0.27. Multiply that by cooling hours per season; you may find the small difference will make you feel better about not having room for the larger 16 SEER coil, and be better off having a well-performing duct system.
Flex duct moves 40% less air than sheet metal, so any distortion makes a bad situation worse; especially if flex was not considered in the original design. Compacting insulation lowers R-value. However, it sounds as if you are trying to do it right. I would check your ESP to see the effects any duct distortion has had on your blower.
@ February 25, 2014 8:27 AM in Coil Material Opinions:Your post certainly strikes a chord to those of us who advocate locating ducts in conditioned spaces, which I view as an underlying tone of your comment. In some applications, cost or physical limitations get in the way of doing the right thing; keeping ducts out of attics.
Your post also nods toward the value of insulation. Using your Delta T, a 6" duct would lose 15 BTUH per linear foot with R8 and 11 BTUH with R10, so if you aren't able to rip and tear then insulate, insulate, insulate.
@ February 20, 2014 1:12 PM in Coil Material Opinions:Following all of the storm damage before Sandy, we had the now-famous "Chinese Drywall Era" which drove most manufacturers crazy. Hence, the movement to all aluminum coils, which appear to be less prone to off-gassing building materials creating champagne leaks in coil tubing.
R-8 duct insulation in non-conditioned spaces is code. However, check your local AHJ to see if they have a different requirement.