Joined on April 16, 2013
Last Post on July 21, 2014
@ June 9, 2014 7:47 AM in Air handler with DX A/Cz and hydronic heat.Your latent loads are quite a surprise; rather high for the property as you have described so far. Yet we can't select equipment until we have this in the bag. Latent loads come from two "Ls": leaks and lifestyle. You seem to be leak-savvy if you've insulated and weather-sealed. Do the residents have 1,000 orchids or have large cooking vessels in extreme use? If not, I would double-check the Wrightsoft (a program sanctioned by ACCA-fantastic!) weather station, ventilation, and people load inputs. If all OK can we do more to the envelope? I'd like to see your sensible heat ratio in the 90s instead of the .68 you now have.
@ June 7, 2014 8:53 PM in Overcharge QuestionRemember that the PT chart is saturated; LL temperatures are going to be roughly ambient temperature. Hence, a "cold" line would point to a possible overcharge. However, the point remains: let's not fall into the charge trap until we're certain the system is clean and has a tolerable air flow.
@ June 7, 2014 6:43 PM in Air handler with DX A/Cz and hydronic heat.We now need the total load. My error for not asking earlier; I assumed the numbers you gave us were total loads. If we have total and sensible we then know your latent load.
@ June 5, 2014 7:43 AM in Overcharge QuestionFirst of all, the LL shouldn't be cold. Are ALL components clean? This is important to know before we talk about the refrigerant charge. Also identify your metering device.
@ June 5, 2014 7:36 AM in Air handler with DX A/Cz and hydronic heat.OK, so now we need to think about this, since you're the one with the checkbook. We have three immediate goals: comfortable residents stay longer, making sure your first costs are in line with your budget, and ensuring an acceptable ROI and life cycle. You gave us a total cooling load; what is the sensible portion?
@ June 4, 2014 7:19 PM in Ductless vs ACID vs SightGlass/MoistureIndicator vs Suction FilterDriersCupcake.
@ June 2, 2014 9:41 PM in Air handler with DX A/Cz and hydronic heat.Do the homes have separate electric meters now, or do you have to split them?
@ June 2, 2014 9:31 PM in mini-split use adviceMost models will cycle the compressor on the set temperature yet allow the indoor blower to run as long as you are in the cooling mode.
@ June 1, 2014 9:16 PM in 410A pump downThis refrigerant, although a blend, does not fractionalize at conditions most of us will see, so those rumors of R-410A separating are false. Unless you're in Arizona with an ambient of 125, of course. More to worry about is that R-410A is a sponge, so more care is needed when brazing, evacuating, and choosing a drier.
@ May 26, 2014 1:43 PM in cased coilsCheck your IOM for both furnace and coil. There was an issue a few years ago with older oil furnaces and the heat from the combustion chamber/heat exchanger effecting the drain pans, so a higher stand-off was needed. A new furnace with higher blower speeds changed the ball game. However, check your coil PD, the duct system pressure, and the blower capability before you select any components. Oil furnaces by nature have a high PD, so it could be difficult getting the performance for which you paid and expect.
@ May 23, 2014 9:34 AM in Compressor contactor.I would think the washer and the wire will not be happy together for very long. I would get all back to original. The other benefit will be your bumper will stop vibrating.
@ May 23, 2014 9:20 AM in Loss CalculationsThe first step is to ensure your software program is blessed by ACCA. That way, you know the software designers have not added assumptions beyond those already in ACCA's design manuals.
@ May 17, 2014 7:50 AM in Cold Climate Air Source Heat PumpsEven a reasonably efficient HP will be 1.7:1 at -17 degrees. At that frigid ambient, you will still get 1.7 cents of heat for every penny you put in. Electric heat has a COP of 1. HPs will always be more than 1 because they do not create heat; they transfer it. Moving is always cheaper than making! Heat pumps don't work properly ONLY when they are not properly sized, the duct system is not right (that .10 crap), the terminal units are wrong, and a balance point chart was not used.
@ May 10, 2014 8:24 AM in Cold Climate Air Source Heat PumpsYour post is accurate under two conditions. (1) you are below the thermal balance point, and; (2) you are at or below the economic balance point.
@ May 9, 2014 2:57 PM in Cold Climate Air Source Heat PumpsI'm still laughing!
FYI: my design temperature is 14. The worst day last winter was 12 with a 25 MPH wind, gusting to 30+. At 8:00 pm my HP was maintaining 69 degrees inside, and the house faces West, right into the wind. By the way, I don't have back up heat of any kind.
@ May 9, 2014 7:44 AM in Cold Climate Air Source Heat PumpsPlot your structure heat loss on a balance point chart. Choose a HP of your liking and check the rated caps at 47 and 17 degrees and plot that output. This will immediately show you how much heat you will get with and without back up. Always choose a high HSPF; a 9.5 will produce 2.82 times the amount it uses in energy (HSPF x .297).
@ May 6, 2014 7:52 AM in 2.5 Condensor with a 5 ton coilFirst check AHRI to see if your OD unit and ID coil have been certified. If not you may have a humidity issue. Then compare the SH and LH capacities of your OD unit at your design DB and WB (not AHRI conditions; yours!) to your load requirements. Remember, you can take "credit" for half of your excess latent should you have any to apply to your sensible, which always allows for smaller OD units if yoi can neutralize both loads.
@ May 6, 2014 7:31 AM in figuring CFM requiredThis is a wonderful practice; one of which our industry should have more followers. However, it tells you what you have yet doesn't address what you need (load). With these two bits together, we learn how closely the CFM required by the load and the field conditions (as your point states) can meet. The more narrow that gap is means everything to the occupants and the equipment.
@ May 5, 2014 7:47 AM in figuring CFM requiredYour temperature drop is based on the sensible heat ratio from your load calculation. A high SHR allows for a warmer coil, while a low SHR is the opposite. Once you have the CFM value, you have to determine if your blower can meet this requirement at an acceptable ESP using the performance chart from your unit.
@ April 30, 2014 6:56 AM in HVAC Duct SystemSince you haven't mentioned ducts, you may be describing a ceiling return plenum. This brings up a host of code issues if not installed correctly. This I assume, a you mention a second blower at the grille. Enclosing a joist space for a return will only give you 150 CFM if you're lucky, and it will throw your building pressures out of sync.
@ April 29, 2014 7:34 AM in HVAC Duct SystemIf there are no other returns, you may have all outdoor air as a return with the negative issues as explained above. You will need some OA to satisfy the code requirement for ventilation. Ask your local HVAC professional to help with OA amounts, load calculations (commercial) and duct sizing based on your loads and the capacity of your blower.