Joined on September 2, 2013
Last Post on January 25, 2014
@ January 25, 2014 7:21 AM in Baseboard Installation from floorInstalling some Slant Fin hydronic baseboard and am wondering how far from the floor it should be installed? The flooring will definitely be replaced in the future but not sure with what...should I install it "on" the floor and then just raise it up when the new hardwood floor is put in? What about dealing with carpet? Again, install on floor and then adjust, or install it above, not touching, the carpet. The baseboards will be connect to the system with Pex, so the tubing will allow some flexibility. Any guidance is appreciated. Thanks.
@ January 20, 2014 11:26 AM in Pex Expansion without tool?Thanks for the info...Can I use the Mr. Pex type a Oxygen barrier in the Joist Trak? The Mr. Pex is compression fitting and the Uponor hePex is expansion and I do not have that tool and it is pricey for the 4 fittings I need to make.
@ January 20, 2014 8:02 AM in Pex Expansion without tool?The Pex for the radiant is hePex, which I guess if supposed to be used with the aluminum panels. The outside diameter of the 1/2" hePex is the same as 1/2" oxygen barrier pex that is used with a crimp installation tool (which I have).
Is it okay not to use the hePex in the Uponor Joist Trak panels? It would be easier to use the 1/2" crimp fitting tubing (Mr. Pex Oxygen Barrier is what I have compared to the hePex).
@ January 20, 2014 7:36 AM in Pex Expansion without tool?I am a homeowner installing my my own Pex for a new heating system. I will be installing radiant panels for two rooms. With the parts I have, I will need to make only 4 expansion connections with the Pex. I can't find an expansion tool at any of the local tool rental sites, and don't really want to have to buy a $350 tool to make the 4 connections.
Is the a way to expand the Pex and fitting with some sort of an inexpensive tool, device or "homemade" expansion tool? Thanks for any help.
@ November 16, 2013 9:08 PM in System LayoutI am leaning toward the Lochinvar Knight wall hung unit with 125k output. This is actually more BTU's than I need right now. But, when I calculated the heat loss, I included spaces that will be added on in the future and did not add anything for DHW. I will not be adding the indirect tank at this time. I currently have a hot air furnace and actually heat mostly with wood, but I want a whole house system that is more efficient.
@ November 16, 2013 7:08 PM in System LayoutThanks for the suggestion. I have never seen the book before, does it give design layout suggestions? My father-in-law has done a couple of boiler system and piping installations in the past, but there were years ago. I am wondering if the approach should be different for today's high efficiency systems.
@ November 16, 2013 6:16 PM in System LayoutI am looking for advice so when I spend my money it is on the best parts and layout to make the system as efficient and reliable as possible. Post useful advice if you are able to.
@ November 16, 2013 5:39 PM in System LayoutInstalling a new heating system and going to be doing much of the work. I will be installing a high efficiency propane boiler with 3 zones and will eventually add a 4th for DHW. Zone 1 will be the finished basement, Zone 2 will be the main floor and the Zone 3 will be the second floor. I have used the Slant Fin app and determined the heat loss to be around 90,000 BTU.
Is there a good resource for me as I lay the system out. My father-in-law has made some suggestions, but I do not want to put things in the system that could hurt the boilers efficiency. I also don't want to spend money on things I do not need in the system, like venture tees or mechanical thermostats at the radiator, to name a couple. Thanks for the help.
@ October 19, 2013 6:57 AM in Heat loss for logs?It seems that we have a pretty good envelope with our logs. There is one corner where two walls and the roof meet that will be getting some attention, but other that that it is pretty good. I have rented places and been to homes that the blowing wind will move the curtains and you can feel the cold seep through the walls. The builder must have done a solid job with the seems and sealing. We will be updating the seem sealing and the exterior staining next summer so it should get even better. My guess is that if the house got very cold (the boiler went out) and we had to heat the house back up, it would take a very long time due to the the logs being so dense. We would need to "push" the cold back out...
@ October 19, 2013 6:52 AM in Boiler adviceI have also been looking at high efficiency condensing boilers. I have spoken to several installers and gotten a few quotes for the job. One of them mentioned that a condensing boiler may not be right for my house...something about the return water not being cool enough when it gets back to the boiler, which would decrease or eliminate the condensation. But, I have only heard this from one of the contractors. How "long" of a loop does the water need to run for the temp to drop enough? Is this a problem that a homeowner even needs to consider? I know there a multiple variables for the water temp to drop, but is there a suggest loop length...in other words it sounds like I would not be able to put just the master bathroom on a loop since it is the coldest room in the house when we are burning wood.
@ October 18, 2013 5:35 PM in Heat loss for logs?There are logs over the windows, not 2 x 6 construction...
No bark on the logs...
We wondered about the logs and R value...but, it seems to me that the thermal mass plays an important part in all of this. I remember a brick wall at a house in Denver that would get heated up by the setting sun and in would throw heat into the house all night. The house actually feels (to me) to be pretty efficient. The Jotul has heated the house plenty over the last couple of winters...even on cold night we sometimes have to open a window or two to keep the house comfortable...
.111 seems reasonable to me, but again, I am no expert.
Is heat loss factor the same as U Factor?
@ October 18, 2013 5:21 AM in Heat loss for logs?The logs are "D" shaped...that is, they are flat on the interior of the house and rounded on the outside. The top and bottom of each log is flat with two "tongue and groove" deals running the length of each log on each side. At the thickest spot the log is 6" thick down to 5" at the top and bottom of the curve. The house is pretty tight (we do not feel the wind through the walls) but I am planning to clean, chink and stain the exterior next summer.
I have also read about "thermal mass" versus the R-factor of the logs, but have not really searched for an explicit explanation. I have lived in NH for years and have experienced some cold, windy nights and the house has been comfortable with only the Jotul burning.
Can anyone else confirm the .111 heat loss factor?
I attached a photo from a couple of winters ago.
Thanks for the responses.
@ October 17, 2013 5:51 AM in Heat loss for logs?Completed a heat loss calculation using the Slant Fin software. The only thing that was noticeably missing for me to use doing the calculation for my house was the heat loss factor for logs. I live in a log home with the first floor being 6 inch logs and the second floor being 2x6 construction. I searched multiple sites and found "U factors" for logs. I entered .111 (that's point, 1-1-1) for the logs. Does that sound right? Anyone with experience doing calculations for log homes? If the factor is way off, it could significantly change the final numbers.
@ October 6, 2013 4:36 PM in Any concerns about Rinnai boiler?I am waiting for a quote for a boiler from a local company. They mostly install Rinnai and have mentioned both the E 110C and Q 130S series. I am looking for heat and DHW from the system as I will also install an indirect hot water heater. I have completed a heat loss calculation using the Slant Fin app and came up with nearly 100,000 BTU. I am in New Hampshire, where temperatures commonly dip well below freezing and are often south of 0 degress. I will be heating around 2700 sq. feet...
My question centers around the Rinnai...are their boilers reliable and as energy efficient as advertised? Any info is appreciated, particularly if you have experience as an installer, service tech or as an owner of Rinnai boilers. Thanks in advance.
@ September 14, 2013 7:30 AM in High Efficiency Wall Hung ReliabilityI am in the Lakes Region about an hour from the seacoast. It gets cold here, but not like the North Country. Thanks for the info.
Do you have direct experience with the wall hung units?
@ September 12, 2013 5:35 AM in High Efficiency Wall Hung ReliabilityI am looking to install a new boiler in my house. I have had a few companies come out and give me their thoughts. One suggested a System 2000 oil boiler, another a direct vented oil boiler as well as a Rannai Combo unit and the third suggested a Lochinvar Knight wall hung unit. Switching to propane from oil would save us space in a couple of places in the basement (which is being finished into living space and the reason for the change to a boiler). Cast iron boilers have been around "forever" but the high efficiency wall hung units have not...should I be concerned about the "life expectancy" of a high efficiency wall hung unit? Reliability? I do not have any experience with these, so any help is appreciated.
@ September 9, 2013 3:41 PM in Searching for Oil BoilerI just had a guy at the house and one of the boilers he recommended was a Rinnai Combo. I took a look at their website and it looks like it could be set with an indirect hot water heater...this sounds like a reasonable option since I have "heard" that the Rinnai on demand hot water heaters can sometimes slow down to a "dribble" because they cannot keep up with the demand for water.
Does anyone have any experience with these? Reliability? Life-expectancy?
@ September 6, 2013 7:13 PM in Searching for Oil BoilerHow do these compare to a System 2000? Stainless Stain heat exchange vs. cast iron...which is better.
@ September 5, 2013 5:37 AM in Searching for Oil BoilerWe have a woodstove which is our main heat source. We do not have heat in our basement which is being finished for living space. Our current system is "older" and we are planning to change out the system before finishing the basement and don't have access to install PEX and baseboards. We like the alternative heat sources, particularly the woodstove. It is nice to have in case of a long power outage (ice storm). We will be putting in a new boiler and keeping the woodstove. At some point down the road, we could put a small woodstove in the basement...just in case.
@ September 4, 2013 5:53 PM in Searching for Oil BoilerI am not familiar with those types of systems at all, but they do sound very interesting. I am looking for advice on a boiler...and am open to suggestions. I know a bit about the system 2000 and have read about some other systems. One that sounds interesting is the Burnham MPO-IQ, but I cannot find much about it. It is starting to cool off here in New Hampshire, so I need to come to a decision fairly soon. Thanks for all the help...I have learned a lot about heating systems since I started my search, and I don't want to sink several thousand dollars into something that I won't be satisfied with in a decade or two.
@ September 3, 2013 6:45 PM in Searching for Oil BoilerThese look similar to the Burnham I have considered...are they? Reliability and efficiency wise too...not just AFUE, but DHW, standby loss, etc.?
@ September 3, 2013 6:43 PM in Searching for Oil BoilerElectricity is about .124 per kwh...oil is around 3.30 (I think). But it get much colder than freezing here in NH for much of the winter. I do not know much about heat pumps, but wouldn't I still need another heat source in the house?