Joined on February 18, 2014
Last Post on September 1, 2014
@ September 1, 2014 10:19 PM in two different metalsI may be thinking of something else, but I thought one of the theories behind that sinking was freezing due to expansion of compressed air. Supposedly there was some kind of screen on the compressed air output into the ballast tanks. When they tried to do an emergency blow the screen iced up effectively blocking the air flow and preventing them from going into positive buoyancy. This was all after their loss of power. Of course I could be remember the wrong accident?! Without actually eye witnesses who can really say for sure what happened. On a side note my wife and I visited Arlington this year and just randomly walked around and came across a headstone marked as having died in the Thresher...such a sad story all around. Brought a tear to my eye when I was explaining it to my wife.
@ September 1, 2014 7:18 PM in two different metalsOn the evaporators I was referring to the entire unit is in a cold room and with the lower temperatures this effect is lessened dramatically. I honestly do not know the science behind it, but I have seen some older units that still look brand new and have galvanized steel, aluminum and stainless steel all in contact and there has been zero corrosion. These units get wet especially the "warmer" rooms, but the cool temps seem to keep the corrosion at bay. I will have to pose the question to our engineer this week and get the details on why this is. The condensers and coolers we build that are outdoors in ambient temperatures AND being "heated up" rejecting room heat are a different story. We have to be very aware if dissimilar metals are in contact and isolate as required. Even with this sometimes there can be issues if a part has poor galvanizing or if a customer didn't passivate the unit properly (ugh). The more I learn about all this the more fascinated I am. The world is a wonderful place filled with learning I just wish life wasn't so short so I could learn it all. On a side note I wish Ice gave classes just for fun because his posts are some of the most interesting I read on this site. As always thanks all for the education!
@ September 1, 2014 8:56 AM in two different metalsI grew up around boats and my grandfathers had bronze, stainless, brass all under water. There was corrosion, but on boats Zinc is added as a sacrificial anode so the others don't corrode. When you see before and after of those zincs it amazing what happens. In that situation the salt water is the biggest factor. It conducts very well way more than any water in a heating system. It's extreme, but a good illustration of what can happen.I think this concept is similar to what is done with water heaters, direct the corrosion to something easily replaceable to save the expensive parts. It is really fascinating stuff. I am a designer and work with aluminum, galvanized and Stainless primarily. We are always conscious of what metals are in contact in the "wet area" of any unit and make all efforts to isolate them. Since our units aren't submerged we can get away with simple isolation. Temperature can be a factor as well. In very cold temperatures the effect is minimized. On our evaporators we don't even do isolation. Chris this could be why it holds up so well on those refrigerators?!
@ August 25, 2014 8:48 AM in Cast Iron fittingsWard is made in USA and the lowes stuff is mostly if not entirely imported. If you work with them more than a couple times you will see the difference in quality. The imported is okay in a pinch maybe for something small, but I would never do an entire job with it unless I wanted to curse and redo my work a lot. I am only a homeowner and I have had this experience many times.
@ August 24, 2014 10:57 PM in Oh look what I found in my closetLooks great Chris, but given all the other work you have posted on here we would expect nothing less!
@ August 23, 2014 8:21 AM in Cast Iron fittingsHanover (17331) to be specific. Seriously I would love to deal with a local supplier (within 15-20 miles), but if they don't seem to want my business I will go online. If anyone knows of a supplier I am all ears. I don't want to mention the name of the one I already contacted. I am actually about an hour away from Steamhead I wonder where his supplier is? Steamhead are you out there? Don't know why I didn't think of that before lol!
@ August 23, 2014 8:02 AM in Offsets in pipes between floors?Have the double 45 offset at the ceiling. Mine are all original to the heating system and as far as I can tell it is to keep the pipe as close to the wall as possible.
@ August 23, 2014 7:56 AM in Cast Iron fittingsChris if you click on fittings you get the page in this picture and there are the cast iron fittings. Sounds like everyone is saying just do supplyhouse.
@ August 22, 2014 11:45 PM in Cast Iron fittingsThe online retailer I am using for comparison. I will go that route if the local guy doesn't want my business. I don't mind pay a "little" extra if I get service, but that doesn't seem to be the case here. I have ordered from them before and they ship fast and are great to deal with. The local guy said 1 week lead time on non stock items, I think supply house can get it to my house faster than that...wait I KNOW they can. Oh and the reason I have been working through email at this point is their hours are difficult for me. 7-5 and I work 8:30-5 so that only leaves me a very short window in the AM to get to them, no weekend hours either.
@ August 22, 2014 11:20 PM in Cast Iron fittingsThey sell steam boilers and do all plumbing. I figure one of 2 things he really doesn't stock them (which makes me wonder about all the local contractors installing steam boilers) or he is giving me the run around because I am just a homeowner. This isn't a small outfit either, they have I believe 6 different locations. He also misquoted some of my items, I asked for a low pressure gauge 0-20 oz and he quoted me a 30 psi gauge. I also asked for a boiler drain cock and he quoted a y strainer?! That one really threw me. I sent and excel and a pdf of my list it was quite clear what I wanted. I was just curious if people had thoughts on this? Give him a second chance or go to the online store? I will admit a couple of the more "special" items I knew would be better online, but wanted to get a full quote for comparison. And I thought this would be simple...lol.
@ August 22, 2014 10:06 PM in Cast Iron fittingsQuestion for well anyone really. So I got price quote from my local distributor for all the fittings and pipe to install my new steam boiler. First thing that struck me a bit odd was they do not stock Cast Iron fittings. They carry Ward brand fittings which is good, but on every fitting I chose they list it as non stock item freight charges apply (even on a 3/4" fitting). Now I live in an area that is mostly old houses and a ton of them have steam heat so this surprised me. My question, is this common for suppliers not to stock cast iron? I understand I am just a homeowner and probably won't get as good of a deal as a contractor, but the prices they quoted...well let's just say my hind quarters are sore from reading the prices. I compared to a certain online retailer and my local guy wants 40% more. I may contact them back and see if they can do any better. I really want to patronize the local guy because it is what I believe in, but I have never ever encountered such a huge price differential in my life. I deal almost exclusively with my local lumber yard instead of the big box guy because my local guy is actually cheaper and gives fantastic over the top service. The plumbing supply has been nice to deal with and very prompt with my inquiries, but the stocking issue and price are hard to swallow. Oh and the other reason I want to deal locally is that if I need something last minute I want to be able to go to him, but again the stocking issues makes that impossible. Just curious if anyone has thoughts on this.
@ August 7, 2014 10:50 AM in Help...I bought a foreclosureYou should definitely pressure test all that pex. When people do that much damage you have no idea what you are getting. For all you know they filled the tube with water so it would freeze and burst the tube over the winter, then when you fill it up.... I am just a homeowner, but I know a bunch of people who have gotten into the "good deal" on a foreclosure. Be careful and good luck!
@ August 3, 2014 4:19 PM in Trouble Reconnecting a Water SoftenerPetroleum jelly before also. Not sure if it's a good or bad idea, but it worked like a charm. I figure if it's safe to use on babies it's safe for potable water. In my experience almost any O-Ring likes a little lubricant.
@ August 3, 2014 1:22 PM in Brazing without nitrogen?!Basically a double flare makes the flare have double the tube wall thickness. Here is a video showing how to do it. This one is for brake lines, but it's the same for anything. These types of flares reinforce the end for extremely high pressures (brakes systems can see thousands of PSI).
@ August 1, 2014 3:47 PM in Oil to Gas ConversionThe installer follows the manufacturers recommended piping at a minimum! Way too many people come on here with the horror stories of bad installs. Just make sure everything is written in the final contract. Oh and no copper on the steam side! Good luck and post back after it's done so everyone can hear how it turns out.
@ July 31, 2014 9:40 PM in Brazing without nitrogen?!Some of the conversations on this site are thoroughly enjoying. I am enjoying the back and forth on this topic. I have only brazed a handful of times in my life, most of my experience is welding so this has been very educational for me. I am just a homeowner, but I do a lot of my own work so I always like hearing and learning about how things should be done. I am not going to try brazing refrigeration lines anytime soon that is what I learned here.
@ July 31, 2014 9:48 AM in Brazing without nitrogen?!Ice you are hitting another nail on the head. I have been through manufacturers training from Spears on proper PVC pipe joint assembly. Some things I learned the "cleaner" doesn't just clean it is actually the solvent for the pipe and is part of the "welding" of the joint together. In addition how many "plumbers" actually hold the joint together for the appropriate time? On smaller pipe (less than 2") it's 2-5 minutes that the pipe needs to be held in position. On larger pipe (2 1/2"-8") it's supposed to be held together for 30 minutes. On DWV it probably isn't a big deal because of the lack of pressure, but on any pressurized pipe it can be. The company I work for put us all through this training a while ago and it was a huge eye opener for all. We discovered this was the cause of some leaking pipe on our units. I have personally watched a joint back out 10 minutes after assembly due to pipe size and cure times. Those sockets are tapered and will push the pipe back out. We work in PVC as big as 16" that pipe needs to be clamped up and left for at least 2 hours to cure. All these "recommendations" are of course just that. The bottom line though if the manufacturers instructions aren't followed the warranty is void on the pipe and fitting.
@ July 15, 2014 1:11 PM in Do I need a chimney liner?Looks like a shiny piece of pipe back in there. Another thing I noticed was the one boiler reduces right at the appliance, at least it appears to reduce. I always thought that was a big no no. Another issue that I don't think was mentioned is the acid. The combustion gases from gas appliance can produce an acid if they condense. This is what can ultimately destroy the masonry chimney. This is the biggest reason for lining (so I was told). I have a 100+ year old house and am currently in process of abandoning the masonry chimney and having a new B vent installed inside the house. If you saw my chimney and what can happen you wouldn't question the lining issue believe me. Just another homeowner.
@ July 12, 2014 9:52 PM in Identifying boiler capacityGerry Gill is a big fan of them as well.
@ July 11, 2014 11:08 AM in Did my plumber "F" up my system?If all those new pipes are run in an area that won't be accessible when the bathroom is done that could be an issue. If there is a problem in the future you could end up having to rip apart the brand new bathroom to have it fixed. It sounds by your description like this will all be buried in the floors and walls. Like was said by others it might work just fine, but what about long term? Working and not leaking today to me isn't much of a guarantee that in 2 years the whole thing could let go. And now you are remodeling the bathroom again, and who will your GC hire to fix the pipes the second time? Same guy that did it wrong the first time? It could be a vicious aggravating cycle that doesn't end. You could also post some pictures of this piping and people might be able to give better opinions. Like I said just my opinion as a homeowner.
@ July 10, 2014 11:46 AM in Lightening StrikesEither of these the ones you are talking about?
@ July 6, 2014 6:55 PM in stupidityI worked for a fiberglass company for a couple years and the only way I found to keep it away was layers. I always wore a long sleeve T-shirt under my long sleeve Dickies button up shirt and that usually helped. It was scorching hot, but I dealt and drank tons of water. Not quite attic hot, but we weren't allowed fans or much ventilation because it could mess with the curing process of the fiberglass as well as all the EPA regulations for VOC's etc. Heat stroke and exhaustion were primary concerns in the summer so we all had training and always watched out for people. Conversation was encouraged because holding a conversation required brain function and when you get hot that can be a first sign of problems. Oh and we had respirators on a lot so that didn't help. Sending people into an attic, in the summer and alone seems ludicrous to me on all levels. Cutting corners and sacrificing safety is never worth the profits. Kakashi is a hero and should be commended you saved a life as far as I am concerned that is a fact.