Heating Help

Type of heating system

@ February 28, 2011 11:07 AM in Tankless Natural Gas Hot Water Heater

I heat with a WM EC series steam boiler.  However, I don't run the boiler during the non-heating season (only the standing pilot burns)

Tankless Natural Gas Hot Water Heater

@ February 27, 2011 5:31 PM in Tankless Natural Gas Hot Water Heater

I'm in immediate need of a new natural gas hot water heater.  My existing 50 gal conventional has failed.  I'm considering both conventional and tankless.  Any recommendations on brands:  Such as Takagi, Rinnai, Bosch, Rheem (or others) for tankless; Not sure what's recommended these days for conventionals.  I live in MI where the water temp in the winter can be in the 40 to 50 degree range.

Any suggestions are welcome.

I'll need at least a 50 gal conventional or probably a 199,000 Btu tankless.

New Hot Water Heater

@ February 27, 2011 3:31 PM in New Hot Water Heater

As of this morning, I need a new 50 gallon storage tank style conventional gas fired hot water heater (to match existing).

What brands do folks prefer?  Any specific features to look for, such as glass-lined tank, type of electrode, pilot system, first hour recovery rating and energy star compliance?  How about the extended warranty - are they worth it?

One last question:  What is the typical minimum clearance to combustible material, such as a adjacent wood framed wall?

My goal is to hire a professional plumber (not the local big box...) for installation.  I'd like to know what to ask for in advance, especially if given several choices.

I'll be living with my family of four in this house for several more years.

Thanks, Dave

Thermocouple adjustment

@ March 1, 2010 10:46 AM in Thermocouples

Tim,
The Johnson Controls K16RA works great.  I could tell right away it's heavier duty and more substantial than the Honeywell Universals.  One issue that I did have to resolve (with a little ingenuity) was figuring out how to adjust the installed height of the K16 relative to the pilot flame.  When installed as supplied into the stock WM pilot/TC mount, the K16 protruded a about 1/4 inch too far up into the flame. (Note: The Honeywell Universal did the same).  What I did was install a thin hardended steel metal spacer ring over the TC "shoulder"  to hold it off a bit from the flame to ensure proper positioning.  Only thing I can conclude is that the stock WM TC must have been shorter in length or had a different form factor.  Rest assured that the K16 TC is securely installed and is not  "jury rigged."  I believe my solution was reasonable, given the situation.  Result:  Secure mount, proper orientation of TC in the pilot flame; dull, dark orange glow from the tip to about a 1/2 inch down.  Thanks again for your assistance.
-Dave

Thermocouple adjustment

@ February 24, 2010 10:43 AM in Thermocouples

I meant to say "I will NOT attempt to do this myself."  Sorry for the confusion...Dave

Thermocouple adjustment

@ February 24, 2010 10:41 AM in Thermocouples

What is the exact procedure for conducting a combustion test and what data will be collected and reported?  I will attempt to do this myself, however, I'd like some detailed info so I can interview and select a qualified boiler professional or company.  Thanks, Dave.

Thermocouple adjustment

@ February 23, 2010 2:40 PM in Thermocouples

No problem.  The K16RA looks like just the ticket.  Had I been on vacation during my recent pilot light outage/thermocouple failure, I'd have had a real mess on my hands, with outdoor temps below freezing.

It never occurred to me that a thermocouple could fail so quickly.  From now on, I guess I'll have to have the neighbors check the indoor temp as well as collect mail and papers.

Thermocouple adjustment

@ February 23, 2010 1:19 PM in Thermocouples

Found a place - Young Supply, near my office.   I'll be ordering the K16RA-36.  No one could supply or identify the "L" in the reference to K16LRA-36.  Thanks for the assistance!  Dave

Thermocouple adjustment

@ February 23, 2010 1:03 PM in Thermocouples

Detroit,  MI  48201.  Anywhere within 10-15 miles is ok.

Thermocouple adjustment

@ February 23, 2010 11:55 AM in Thermocouples

Thanks for the info!  Now, I just have to find a distributor in our area for the Johnson/Baso item.  A Google search returns no useful info...

Thermocouple adjustment

@ February 22, 2010 2:17 PM in Thermocouples

After discussing the matter of premature thermocouple failure with WM,
Honeywell and Johnson Controls, the following has been suggested:  The
premature failure I'm experiencing may be caused by overheating the
thermocouple.  The techs I spoke with indicated that the thermocouple
probe may be protruding too far into the pilot flame, causing
overheating.  Question:  How far should a standing pilot thermocouple protrude into the flame?  Just barely, 1/8 inch, 1/2 inch, as much as possible, etc?  The tech from JC seemed to think "just the tip."  Thoughts and suggestions?

Thermocouples

@ February 22, 2010 10:56 AM in Thermocouples

Thanks.  Will do.

Thermocouples

@ February 22, 2010 10:54 AM in Thermocouples

Thermocouples
Hi  there.  I have a WM EG-35 steam boiler, standing pilot.  Over the
weekend I replaced my second 30 millivolt thermocouple in two years. 
The boiler was installed in 2001, and the stock WM-supplied thermocouple
which came with the boiler lasted  about 9 years.  Subsequently, I replaced
it with a Universal Honeywell Thermocouple (sorry, Honeywell...),
purchased for about $10 at the local hardware store, which lasted about
12 months.  I replaced it again over the weekend with my backup spare
(another HW Universal).  Any suggestions for makes and models of heavy
duty 30 mV thermocouples that may last few more years or that won't burn
out as quickly?  Note 1: WM no longer supplies their original
t'couples.  Note 2:  The form factor of the WM t'couple mount is
screw-in, same as the HW universal.  Any suggestions will be much
appreciated.  Dave.








Reply

Thermocouples

@ February 22, 2010 10:01 AM in Thermocouples

Hi  there.  I have a WM EG-35 steam boiler, standing pilot.  Over the weekend I replaced my second 30 millivolt thermocouple in two years.  The boiler was installed in 2001, and the stock WM-supplied thermocouple which came with the boiler lasted 10 years.  Subsequently, I replaced it with a Universal Honeywell Thermocouple (sorry, Honeywell...), purchased for about $10 at the local hardware store, which lasted about 12 months.  I replaced it again over the weekend with my backup spare (another HW Universal).  Any suggestions for makes and models of heavy duty 30 mV thermocouples that may last few more years or that won't burn out as quickly?  Note 1: WM no longer supplies their original t'couples.  Note 2:  The form factor of the WM t'couple mount is screw-in, same as the HW universal.  Any suggestions will be much appreciated.  Dave.

What type of copper pipe for incoming water service.

@ September 3, 2009 12:16 PM in Repiping water meter

One of the experts suggested using copper.  This sounds like a great idea.  Although I'm not an expert, I believe there are two types of copper pipe, with different wall thicknesses.  Note that the service is 1.5 inch diameter from the street, buried under the front lawn.   What type of Cu pipe would folks recommend?  Thanks again.

1.5" - yes

@ August 31, 2009 8:39 PM in Repiping water meter

Yes, it's a 1.5 inch main.  The house originally had Sloan valve toilets, which are long since gone.  The 1.5 does offer good overall pressure though.  Interesting suggestions - Stainless or copper vs brass.  The house is on municipal city service.  It's not fed from a well.  Recommendations?

Brass vs Galvanized

@ August 31, 2009 12:43 PM in Repiping water meter

Tony,
The galvanized held up for about 7 years before corrosion and leaking set in.  I can probably pick up the brass fittings and close nipples I'll need for about $50 or less, total.  I'm trying to avoid this happening again in another 7 years.  It's a pain shutting off the water at the street, draining the house, the reaction from the wife, the kids, etc...I don't mind spending a bit more to do the job well.
-Dave

Repiping water meter

@ August 31, 2009 12:19 PM in Repiping water meter

Hi  there.  I have an older, 1920's house with the following situation: The piping immediately adjacent to my basement water meter is drippping.  The drips are occurring from corroded areas where a couple of galvanized close nipples connect to other galvanized fittings. 

Description of piping:  The service into the house is 1-1/2 inch heavy gauge copper with a soldered threaded adapter.  Next is a series of galvanized 1-1/2 inch piping connected to a brass gate valve, then to more galvanized piping, then to the inlet of the meter.  The meter inlet and outlet pipes are brass.    Next is a series of galvanized piping connected to the meter outlet, then into another brass gate valve, then into more galvanized fittings which subsequently feed the galvanized main for the whole house.  I need to conduct the near-meter repairs.  Should I replace the leaking inlet and outlet piping, nipples, etc.  adjacent to the meter with brass, or just replace with galvanized?  How about the final interface/connection to the galvanized house main?  (Additional note:  The electrical service in the house uses the cold water service as a ground.  The meter is spanned by a #6 copper ground wire.)  Thanks for your expert advice.
-Dave

Inverter/Charger for Steam Boiler Ops

@ June 25, 2009 11:39 AM in Inverter/Charger for Steam Boiler Ops

A few topics ago, some folks mentioned that a steam boiler could be run using 12 or 24 VDC to 115 VAC inverter/charger. I have a WM EG35. What size would be recommended to carry my WM boiler for three days or so in the event of a power outage? I suppose another method would be to use a computer-style UPS system in series with the 115 VAC supply to the boiler. (Such as those manufactured by APC). Thoughts?

New H2O piping in old house

@ June 1, 2009 10:18 AM in New H2O piping in old house

Folks, I have an older 1920 Michigan house, wet plaster, uninsulated walls, brick exterior veneer. I have a couple second floor runs of galvanized steel pipe, which are almost fully clogged on the hot water side. I'd like to avoid damaging plaster. Any suggestions on what methods and materials can be used to repipe the runs? Running up exterior walls is out due to cold winter temps. Thoughts?

Conventional Hot Water Heaters

@ May 14, 2009 4:00 PM in Conventional Hot Water Heaters

Hi there. I'll be taking advantage of the $1,500 tax credit by finally completing a whole-house window replacement. It's taken 5 years of DIY, btw. Is there a make/model of conventional natural gas fired 50 gallon HWH that is Energy Star compliant that anyone knows of? Mine existing HWH is about 15 years old...Thanks, Dave

Question for Bill@Honeywell

@ January 14, 2008 3:34 PM in Question for Bill@Honeywell

Bill, What programmable t'stat would you recommend for the following cooling-only configuration: Residential, whole house Spacepak, t'stat location on second floor, desire 5/2 programming (min). I know it isn't cooling season yet, but I have the opportunity to work on the system now. Thanks, Dave