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Tim Weaver

Tim Weaver

Joined on January 21, 2003

Last Post on July 27, 2009

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@ July 27, 2009 1:26 PM in Where did it go?

Thanks Dan, grrrr spam bots Tim Weaver

@ July 27, 2009 1:25 PM in Where did it go?

Thanks Dan, grrrr spam bots

@ July 27, 2009 1:15 PM in Where did it go?

Good morning boys & girls. I was wondering if any one know's what happened to a thread I was reading last week dealing with different mod/con heat exchangers and the pros & cons of each style? It was a great read, with probably one of the longes posts I've ever seen on The Wall. I can't find it any where, was it deleted? Or does any one know the title of that thread? Any info would be appreciated. Tim Weaver Allied Engineering

Way better options out there....

@ July 1, 2009 10:39 PM in radiant heating through an electric hot water tank

Instead of using a HWT for this application, you are better off using an electric boiler. There are boilers out there perfect for the application such as the "Mini-Boilers" by electroindustries. Try this link: Note they have a 1 Kw 120 V model, and a 4.5 KW 240 V model. Another one worth noting is Thermolec makes a 240 V 5 KW Electric Boiler that comes with outdoor reset built in. These things are purpose built for your exact application, and if installed properly will do a better job and will last longer than a HWT.


@ June 26, 2009 2:05 AM in New Vitodens

Anyone know when these new Vitodens will be available?

@ June 26, 2009 12:48 AM in Looking for an air vent that doesn't leak

If you don't got the $$$ for a 1/2" Spirotop, try a Watts Auto-air vent.


@ June 25, 2009 2:03 AM in Dan, Gotta ask..

Sure you're not Canadian, eh?


@ June 24, 2009 1:59 AM in Best Indirect Tank?

I'm asking too much. I appreciate your input, but it has a bit too much of a political ring to it (don't take this the wrong way). I like durable products that are built with pride, and built to last, that leave little doubt in my mind. I've used Bradford White S/S indirects, which are made out of a 400 series S/S. Pretty popular locally, and reasonably priced for what you get. But there are lots of other manufacturers out there. Some use fiberglass insulation, some use urethane insulation. Some have customization avialble where you can get extra long heat exchangers, some offer Cupronicked heat exchangers. How would I know if a heat exchanger surface is smooth? I can't reach my hands inside a 3/4" OR 1" tapping, I'd have to take the tank apart. How about things like pressure drop accross the heat exchanger? Or heat transfar ability? Or temperature standby losses? etc. etc. Pride in workmanship? Locally made if at all? Warranty/standing behind work? Included parts (e.g. T & P?)?

Stainless Steel...

@ June 23, 2009 8:58 PM in Best Indirect Tank?

I'm curious what your opinion is of the stainless steel indirect tanks out there. Some are made out of a passivated 400 series of stainless steel (e.g. Bradford White, Lochinvar Squire), a few others are made out of 316 L, one has a Cupronickel heat exchanger. The Viessmann Vitocell 300 is a hell of a tank but exceptionally pricey. Are they all pretty good as long as they are S/S? I'm personally a fany however of bottom tappings and no dip tubes to get the cold water in.


@ June 23, 2009 8:42 PM in New Vitodens

You're saying that Viessmann is bringing out revamped, improved, versions of their current Vitodens 100, AND 200, to the North American market?

@ May 5, 2009 1:12 PM in Keyspan boilers OK?

Put in a high efficiency wall hung boiler and look what rebates you can get back from the feds and local gas company. Sometimes the rebates pay for the boiler and you only have to worry about the removal and installation. Most wall hung boilers are in the mid 90's in terms of efficiency. Add out door reset for even bigger savings.

New Vitoden 100 w outdoor reset

@ April 29, 2009 6:02 PM in New Vito 100

I was just in Providence R.I. and got a look at the new Vito 100. They cleaned it up a little bit and are going to offer a reset control with room sensor :) Reset will be by room or outdoor, your choice.It should hit the market in about 45 days. It has a different cover, and some other small improvements.

@ April 13, 2009 4:59 PM in Subfloor Pex and old Romex

Thanks for your responses. The 140* degree rated wire would be a concern for sure. I will replace all the old Romex that would have been above the subfloor insulation. At least copper wire prices are half the price they were last time I purchased. Awesome forum....thanks again.

Subfloor pex and romex

@ April 13, 2009 7:08 AM in Subfloor Pex and old Romex

Installing subfloor 1/2" pex throughout my 1500 sq. ft. 1955 ranch home. Two loops through most bays stapled up and plans to insulate below pex to at least R13 with FBF to start. I've seen concerns here and elsewhere about "older" wiring in joist bays. I'm not sure what constitutes "older" wiring. I am unable to read the manufacturer's label on what I believe to be Romex in my home. The wire has a a dark gray/black cloth type wrap (with bare equipment ground included) and plenty of paper wrapped between conductors. I would like to know the temperature rating of wire this age (and type) and what threat the fairly high temp radiant will pose to it. The floors above have no carpet but I can not afford subfloor plates at this time. Thanks for any advice you can offer.

GlowCore boiler

@ February 1, 2009 5:00 PM in Glow core boilers

I have a GB0607 Glowcore that I installed almost 18 yrs ago. Lots of initial problems but we ironed them out and its worked great until a recent blower failure--found a replacement in a plumbers back lot. I am now told that Glowcore boiler cores were faulty and subject to pin hole leaks. I know these cores aren't available anymore so should I just replace the boiler as soon as it warms up w/ a Weil Mcclain CGs type--all baseboard in this building. Thanks for your opinion. Ray

Glowcore GB607

@ February 1, 2009 11:25 AM in Glowcore GB607--replace or keep

We have a Glowcore GB607 I installed 18 yrs ago. Its still running but I hear that the coil is subject to pin-hole failure and that I should replace it ASAP. What's anyone's experience w/ this coil. Is it worth replacing as a part--I don't know if its available anymore or should I go with a Weil-Mclain CGs series since this is all baseboard heat Thanks, Ray

orifice size

@ January 30, 2009 8:44 PM in Carbon Monoxide in nat gas furnace exhaust

check that the orifice size is correct for the input rating divided by the # of burners. I've seen them way out of the correct range before; especially if the unit was converted from one type gas to another.

Hydraulic Ram

@ January 28, 2009 7:44 PM in OT: snake for fully glazed trapways

I'd be careful with that thing if I was you. It will blow the wax ring out at the least, and cover you with who-knows-what in the process.

Here's To You

@ January 28, 2009 7:36 PM in Surgery tomorrow

And a speedy recovery! Don't be mean to the Nurses.

idiot proof

@ January 27, 2009 9:52 PM in 20,000ppm CO in CO

Not even stainless is idiot-proof. Got a call about zone valves not working; and "while your here, can you give us any ideas about the moisture in the basement?" The zone valves weren't working because of the typical mass of jumbled wires and loose wire nuts. The moisture in the basement was because of a fallen-apart AL 29 stainless horizontal vent insufficiently supported in a boxed in area of the basement cieling.

I would be interested.

@ January 16, 2009 8:41 PM in CO IN CO

I can't imagine why The C&C of big D would have objections to State Licensing. They already have a slick-operating Dept. of Public SAFETY, as do other Suburban Cities. They have their own license requirements for Plumbing, Electrical, HVAC, and just about everything else. The more rural counties use the State Electrical and Plumbing Board to supplement local Building and Zoning; and the State oversees Public School Facilities in all jurisdictions. Unless maybe they don't want anybody poking around their school buildings with a critical eye towards HVAC. I have brought forth this subject at the Plumbing Board in the past, and the idea was dismissed as "a can of worms"; or "a battle you cannot win". And it is because there is no public support. And there is no support because the public is largely unaware of the danger.

And one other thing

@ January 14, 2009 9:50 PM in CO IN CO

Colo should pass legislation requiring Contractor Licensing on a statewide level for Heating and Ventilating; and then implement ENFORCEMENT, which has not been done effectively with Plumbing and Electrical. There are way too many fly-by-nite types doing shoddy work and they are literally GETTING AWAY WITH MURDER! Now is a good time to re-introduce the idea; with tract homes at a slowed pace, the Homebuilders Association powers may be reduced. They effectively blocked it last time around. I have heard from reliable sources that monetary strongarm tactics were used against supply houses that supported State Licensing. And then you could suggest that the new State HVAC Board could hire competent Inspectors and supply them with kneepads and flashlights, and make them accountable.
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