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clammy

clammy

Joined on December 24, 2003

Last Post on July 24, 2014

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early 1912 prices

@ July 24, 2014 5:36 AM in What did it cost in 1960?

I known this is even older but have a friend who brought a home which in the attic contained a lot of very old plumbing cataloga with fixtures and rads and of course boilers.Of course all where pork chop and they where pushing ideal and burnham .Inside the catalog was a propasal for a large home a few towns away the proposal included all the pipe,fittings  ,raditors ,radiator valves and vents (1 pipe steam system }and of course the insulations and there choice of a burmhan or ideal the ideal was moe money all the equiptment was under 1000 bucks .remember this was about 1912 or so the home was some where in suffern ny .There where 19 raditors included and 2 gals of silver paint .peace and good luck clammy 

oil tank size

@ July 22, 2014 10:36 AM in Just wondering about oil tanks

Here's one or two thoughts .Width they always seem to just squeeze through a 28 inch basement door,The other thought is the volume most smaller homes w a 275 usually had a tankless coil and I fiqure that in the off season when just being used for hot water they could maybe get by for about 1 to 1 1/2 months with a delivery.Alot of the oil jobs I used to service had 275 tanks and went at least that long off season but usually got  a oil delivery at least once a month  but a lot of times it would just be a top off.Peace and good luck clammy

tele marketing

@ July 12, 2014 7:44 AM in Anyone else getting unwanted calls from Angie's List?

Get it all the time ,inform them to put you on there do not call list it usually works after the second time at least for me other wise threaten legal action .I get the same thing from a few nation wide supply chains after repeating to  tell them to put on do not call list I had a local manager call me I reamed the guy out being I dealt with  chain like 2 times in 15 years there prices suck and they carry nothing I use and every time I try to get something from them they do not have and they never stock parts for equipment they carry I  explained it to him and all has finally been quite. Funny thing  is they just started to carry the big V ,any tech help or parts, no dice according to them never need them or case be they can ship over night unless I want to stock pile parts hahah .peace and good luck clammy 

# 3

@ July 12, 2014 6:52 AM in Mod/con poll. Installers only.

if the chimney is good and even not go with #3 as long as you have the correctly sized boiler for design day .I think the mod con business is still on a installer /HO  learning curve and with out the correct heat emmitters TD across the system and proper od reset it s a waste  .The supply house support across the board is not what it should be wheather its a ci boiler or mod con makes no difference .Plus who s got money for any of it this by far is the worst year yet and who would want to waste money on something that is going to cost you all money you saved on energy for service and repair with a 10 to 15 year life span .At least it may last you longer then a new car .I started installing then with the munchkins and still have them running but irate HOs not wanting to pay for yearly service sucks the only ones that do not complain are the oil to gas conversions jobs aside from that its a 50 /50 crap shoot.Thats why I basically went back to ci boilers /ps piping and properly sized and have had a lot less headaches and a lot  less cost acciocated loses from free service but if you don t do service and just toss them in then it s good .Aside from the above rant heres a few more no one wants to pay for a Combustion anz,unless CO alarms are going off ,no one wants to pay for anything more then baseboard nor will supply house stock or carry any thing more then baseboard no panel rads ,And #1 no one including supply houses who do design and do  heat loses which sells you your mod con they will not design a system for low temp to operate properly or truly eff for the boiler .Sell mod cons to preppies with money who hug trees and don t mind coughing up 300 to 500 each year for service and in some cases enjoy seeing your face when they have no hot water or heat .Like all equiptment proper service is only done when the unit is properly installed so one can service it that means following the installation instructions and understanding what clearances are needed to clean and service the unit.Aside from a bunch I have installed I have seen more that needed service but could not be performed due to crap installation with no clearance.So just like putting your foot in a real hot bath tub and pulling it back out realize that the true winners in the mod con buz is the manufacture and the lucky contractor who installed got paid and faded away .Just rant the truth in a society that will cram there convecitions down your throat kinda like socialism  .Just stiring the  melting pot .Still dragging my chimp like paws on the ground while eaten bananas and swingin one armed peace and good luck clammy should have had de caf this am

410A pump down

@ May 31, 2014 7:48 AM in 410A pump down

Knowing that 410 A is a blend, how critical is it when pumping down a system that you get the whole charge pumped down  .Or are you better off reclaiming it all instead of pumping down and then re charge with your re claim or put new in. I know when faced with a leak on a 410 system that you should reclaim ,repair ,pressure test and re charge w new refregerant due to the blend mix leaking at different rates but does this hold true on a pump down say to relocate units .Iuse to deal with blended refregernats many moons ago and don't remenber any issues butthis was well over 25 years ago i belive it was carrier carrine long time ago ,thanks for any inputpeace and good luck clammy

Knoweledgable gentlemen

@ May 31, 2014 6:41 AM in Jake Myron's new book

Many years ago i had the pleasure of speaking with Mr.Myron over the phone about a large home he had written a report on  and that i serviced regularly  he was a real nice gentlemen with a wealth of knowleedge .He remenbered the job complletlyeven though the report was about 4 or 5 years old when i recieved it but  who could forget 2 hb smith 13 section  pork chop boilers with external steam and mud drums they burnered 19 gph w pneumatic controls and a snow melt in wrought iron piping in the front driveway .Home was about 15 to 20 thounsond sq ft originally built in the early 1900 big money mansion when it was built .Nice to hear he's still on the sunny side of the grass peace and good luck clammy

thermal migration

@ May 22, 2014 6:24 PM in Help diagnosing hydro air problems....

Itseems to me  you have thermal migration from your indirect to your 2nd floor attic heating coil.You can have thermal migration  in a single pipe .When all zones thermostat are off  and your boiler piping is cool do you find that the heating circuit piping from the indirect is hot and that one or both of the pipes going to the attic is hot if so you have thermal migration .The reason your boiler comes on and off is that your losing your domestic side temp to thermal siphoning through migration .Install a check valve on both the indirect and the second floor coil .On hydro air in attics you need flow chk other wise when the a/c running it drops the coil temp and increases the thermal migration espically after looking at your heating coils location on the supply .I personally pipe indirects i install using internal check valve  pumps on the supply with a standard flow check valve on the return it nips domestic thermal migration to the heating side down to nil also wire it as priority.I think you may need to find yourself more knoweledgable heating contractor .peace and good luck clammy

buderus /dianorm

@ May 22, 2014 11:55 AM in Wall Mounted Hot Water Radiators?

These are the easiest to install and perform great .i did my home with them no issues as far as the baxi rads i do believe they have to be assembled and witha reverse thread nippleand o rings  and special spud wrench is needed they are also aliumiun ,seems like alot more labor and liability being after assembly they should be pressure tested ,Both dianom and buderus offer models 11 and 22  model 22 is reverseable left right while i believe the 11 is not could be wrong also a thermostatic raditor valve attaches right to the buderus/dianom panels while baxi s have to be piped in on the feed line .Also while looking a buderus take a look at the oventroupe raditor valves with isolation valves and they can be ordered with a built in pressure differential bypass so when you add the TRV you will not need a DPV valve in the boiler room .great product would install everywhere but people want cheap .In my eyes i would install them hands down to baseboard and do it in half the time with far less mess but they re  hard sale being i,ve been trying to selland install them since my first trip to the father land like 20 years ago .I have sold and installed a few over the years but there isn t that much of a interest in them and no one around by parts stocks nor deals in them very sad peace and good luck clammy

attic hydro air

@ May 22, 2014 10:10 AM in Help diagnosing hydro air problems....

Just looked at your post ,aside from boiler /piping issues maybe you should take a look at the duct insulation and the  values of the flex and duct wrap .also does your attic have gable /soffit vents and a attic relief fan .I guess each air handler and its coil is working off a zone valve of some type or do you have a seperate pump for each heating zone.Usually on any attic duct jobs i use a mimiun of r 8 duct wrap and flex .I also like to install a aquastat on the return pipe to engage the fan also as others have stated low speed on the fan i also like to put a freeze stat on any hot water coil that is in a attic and usually a flow check on each zones supplies if using zone valves on the return piping usually stops thermal migration issue which is very common in just about every hydro air system i ever looked at but that whats keep hydro air affordable on the install and usually a pia for the home owner  .Whatsup with that uninsulated supply pleum maybe your cooling and heating issues is due to poor duct installation and lower r valve insulation also as a side note externally wrapped ducts should never have the wrapped pulled tight and snug if it is you are not getting themanafactures rated r valve ,bubble wrap does not work and internally lined duct work as one of my old bosses used to say you put that junk in people homes you dis like.Lined duct work does not work well in attics it s r valve is crap and it collects alot of duct and debrie .Has any one ever cleaned or chked your indoor a/c and heating coil could be packed with debrie .Just a couple of suggestion i m not a huge fan of hydro air or air dampered zoned systems maybe because i always see issue and profermace issues .peace and good luck clammy

commerical /residental

@ March 29, 2014 7:38 AM in Do you ever get sick of looking

Big difference and have done both for a long time number one difference is in residental there is a personal connection with the money and with commerical there is no personal connetion they just write the chk plain and simple at least thats the way is was but that was also in the days of do the work and send the bill and they pay now every one is on the cheap and basically price chk everything as though no one is allowed to make a cent on any thing .Then they wonder why there s no pride or skill shown in the work they perform because they don,t care and it,s basically all about the money .plain and simple sooner or later the HO will get sick of calling and find some one else .The sick part of it is that alot of my residental work is from commerical jobs and the bussiness owners who are just sick of the residental sectors contractors and shoddy work ,they really never bust me on my price there more then happy to pay out of there pockets but they know there getting the correct job usually i don.t find that i.m wasting my time with them like the rest of the residental market ,hard time tough decissions peace and good luck clammy 

fphe

@ March 28, 2014 6:50 AM in Mod con and plate exchanger

I did something simalar to your thoughts about 15 years ago becausethe HO needed more Hot water at her jacuzzi .The plumbers who did the bath re do installed a 80 gal amtrol but it would not give her hot enough water and the boiler could not keep with the indirect rated output or atleast the 140 the HO wanted .What i did was parrell feed the flat plate and used the domestic  output of the amtrol into the flat plate and installed a taco 5000 mixer on a thermal trap worked great ,this amtrol and the flat just feed the master bath they had 2 40 or 50 gal tanks for the rest of the home ,The women wanted as insane as you think like 150 water at the tub with this set up she had it .I believe i used swep plates rated at about 45mbtu or something very long time ago and this was on a ci boiler using seperate pump and priority for domestic boiler was about 150 mtu output fair sized home .worked pretty well and was one of my former bosses sisters never heard a peep or complaint.Really seemes to let her let the tub spout rip  peace and good luck clammy

usually not fixed income

@ March 27, 2014 7:21 AM in Do you ever get sick of looking

Most of these jobs are not for those who on fixed income they have the money but have spent on some thing else .ie driveway pavers,extreme kitchens ,radiant and more aside from keeping it in tere pockets ,they do not  have POS cars in drive ways get my drift and the funniest is the ones with what you say are lower or fixed income they are always the ones who see the value and usually re pipe .Those who are the haves won,t spend it they try to get anyone to do it cheap or they pass it on to the next owner who get so sick of it they rip it out n put in hot air ,It is very dis hearting . But i take it in stride and move on soon to forget there badly installed missed pipied short cycling steamer,no sense in wasting your time it seems no matter how you explain it they will never see the value until there boiler starts leaking and cracks then lets get a lynching mob together and some one must pay but not them .It is quite a comedy shows like a repeat of south park still funny each time . .I was really posting this to guys who are out there like myself still working doing this day in day out and see this pooh in person instead of just a piciture on a screen  Peace and good luck clammy

Do you ever get sick of looking

@ March 26, 2014 8:32 AM in Do you ever get sick of looking

Do any of you get sick of looking at and pricing re piping of mis installed /mis sized steam boilers for those who do not want to spend money to make it right and are looking for some miricale screw driver turn that will make it all works as should?Plus there's always the we are only staying here a few more years and are moving .At some points i just laugh and then tell them well then you only have to live with it a few more years till ya move .Just can't make up human nature and the amazing search for  a bargin and a miracle and some fool do make it happen ,good thing the fool is not me .Thanks for the rant peace and good luck clammy

re piping and swing joints

@ March 25, 2014 6:04 PM in Short Cycling Despite First Time Main Vents Installed

Jeff instead of getting confused by ever body ,look in the installation and operation manual which came with the boiler if you don t have one then down load one .As a general rule just remember that the rise and header sizes in the manual are minimum sizes ,I have installed a few peerless 63/63 steamers and i see it,s only a 112 mbtu .What are the size of your existing steam  mains that you will be tying into your possible new header.I think.If all you have is 2  -2 inch mains i think you would be good with 2 inch risers into a 3 header i would do a  drop header slow that steam down and dry it out plus this way you can come up higher and drop back down to gain room to ty in your existing mains , do a  2 in equalizer and come out of the boiler with a full 2 1/2 nipple and ty your 2 equalizer into that i would do a 1 1/2 Hartford loop and use a mal st ell .Sorry to say i had many photos of steamer i have done but lost my old computer and the pics and got tried of taken pics and posting .You may be able to do a drop header search on the site and find some pics .Peace and good luck clammy

side note on that header

@ March 25, 2014 10:29 AM in Short Cycling Despite First Time Main Vents Installed

No one seemed to mention that there is no swing joint for expansion with that bridge crossoverand the way it is piped  ,Repipe that thing before the lack of a swing joint damages your boiler and we all know it.s expensive but cheaper then buying a new boiler.What ever modifacations you have to do to get main vents installed in the proper place just do it .just one other question i see your home is quite old  do you  have wet returns and  are they original or have they been replaced or flushed ,just asking peace and good luck clammy

is this considered a proper swing joint

@ March 20, 2014 7:57 AM in is this considered a proper swing joint

i can.t understand why but i have been runnig into this lately on a few different steam boiler where the installer came up with his riser and then put 45 on them a close nipple and piped into his header.It s not like i,m following one company but it seems to be a think with a bunch of locale plumbers  .I personally do not think or consider this a swing joint and have had 1 boiler piped this way crack and the guy slide in another one and well it s going on 2 or 3 years and has not crack again but time will tell .They also drop straight down w the equilizer into the return with no offset or swing am i as usually over thinking but i never do it that way and i never have issues and all the boilers i go and look at are either piped in this manner w 1 1/2 or 1 1/4equilizer and return piping and they have issues .i chk the i &o manuals and well they piped to the manafactures specs which are mimiuns .I really can't understand why they just can't follow a drawing in the i&o manual but i guess ya can t do that if you can t read ,theyknow how to sign that check though .Oh yeah on these 45 degreeoffset it was not in a tight spacethere was plenty of room to do a nice job peace and good luck clammy

it s zoned

@ March 18, 2014 12:02 PM in Gas fired direct vent fireplaces advice

It's zoned allready but it s got a crawl space and the flooris insulated .i think he needs that radiant feel of warmth you gey from a fire place .the radiant floor is the real ticket ,but times are tough and it would be a streach for me materal wise to pull off plus i never charge my mom n dad if i do it s kibble and bits usually not even close to the materal cost just the way i am .They already got a little buderus gaser there so no biggie on that side but the tubing n re insulating properly w a tiny in floor 14 x20 access is rough .looking at some lennox units but not a huge fan of there other products mainly cause i see so many sub par installs kinda turns me off as bottom feeds and low ballers seem to use alot just me though .thanks ice peace and good luck clammy

Gas fired direct vent fireplaces advice

@ March 18, 2014 11:26 AM in Gas fired direct vent fireplaces advice

I have piped in a few and some log sets , but now my dad has been bugging me to install one for him he's getting up there in years and feels cold alot   ,I really have no experence with brands if any one can shoot in the right direction it would be helpfull .I know he has  got the heat cranked and is boiling my mom out and i know from comfort side with his health condition he would have no complaints if he had radiant but it s a crawl space with extremly small single entrance in a bad spot .As much as i dread it i 'll end up there doing  staple up that will be another time .Any info will help thanks peace and good lucl clammy

Thanks Tim

@ March 15, 2014 7:20 AM in excessive draft and stack temps

I knew this to be true but i needed some else smarted then i being you  to agree with me on it ,I also see it alot and i have always thought about it but most where on smaller boiler and lower btu outputs and didn t seem to have thetell tale signsi usuallysee with hi draft and excessive air .But this some slapped in the face due to the extremely tall chimmey and the extra draft you get from that  .Thanks Tim for giving me more ammo peace and good luck clammy

excessive draft and stack temps

@ March 14, 2014 7:02 AM in excessive draft and stack temps

 Hey timmie wondering if i'm off base on this ,Looked at a job with a large natural draft gas fired boiler ,The boiler block was raised up about 4 to 6 inches just on the boiler blocks side while the rest ofthe underside of the boiler was left open . it was my belief that whan raiseing a boiler up on block that the  blocks  or a  poured pad should be larger then the physical size of the boiler as to not  increase the air space between the open burner tray and floor due to it increasing draft across the burners  increasing the excess air and increases the draft across the boiler  .The boiler has a built in draft divertor i did not chk the draft because i was there for something different  but the chimmey is about 35 to 40 ft high.The boiler seems to light off fine but it kinda of concerned me being the flue pipe had that i have been running a hi stack temp look that i have come see oh so much of espically with dirty oil boiler that where never properly cleaned oil co love those hi stack temp more oil burning,This is a larger peerless gas boiler so the bottom of the burner tray is open unlike say a utica which has a closed bottom tray on it.Thanks for ny input peace and good luck clammy

it 's america you gotta choice

@ March 13, 2014 11:22 AM in feeding counter flow loops

They knew they had issues and finally i guess a gas company employee suggested they should start by correcting  the piping.I was refferred by a supply house who generally does not refference anyone for steam promblems except one or two guys ,me being one of them and younger then the other guy also i had straightened out a couple larger 2 and one pipe system that where long time promblem jobs no one could get to work no biggie .There's is alot of issue on this one aside from the awesome copper header there,s  the counter flow loops  /lack of A dimesions on 2 dry returns  all rad vents shot wasted done  ,bunch of raditor supply valve pissing,packing and bonnetts ,rad union leaking and   some other wacky hack a do piping for a direct pipe loop along a converted porch entrance does it work no will it ever no and did it ever only if a miricale occurred highly doubtfull if not impossibel i have and will inform them of this yes .But i m giving them the straight line no BS not my stlye. and the same goes for the price it is what it is and no one can sraighten out 50 or 60 years of system negelect and farmers fixes with one swoop of a magic 4 ft pipe wrench if so may i have there number cause i will hire them or give them all my uncaped hero work .Thanks for the rant time peace and good luck clammy what about some piping ideas for what i posted or nobody got nothing

feeding counter flow loops

@ March 13, 2014 8:26 AM in feeding counter flow loops

I recently looked at a re pipejob on a larger peerless steam boiler ,aside from it being one of the worst piped copper steam jobs i have ever seen .I was even more mazed that it worked even though it defies all common sense  steam piping I kinda believe when i witnessed it operating there where not to many issue but it was also about 45 outside and they only turned the t stat up 1 or 2 degrees and he piping was not stone dead cold  i guess to later say it didn t do that before i got there but i think i have that covered  in my propasal  .I know if i would have done it it would have never workedwithout any question, but onto my queston .Aside from 3 parrell flow mains i have 2 counter flow loops which where not taken off the main as such ,the home is very old and overthe years afew addition where added so thats how the counter flows got in there ,If they ok the re pipe i considered over head feeding the counter flow loops and then dropping them below the waterline and tying them into the wet return .I planned on installing a tee on the counter flow main with the bull facing up which will get a supply feed off the main  and the run of the tee getting a nipple and then facing downward to return consensate back to the wet return .The other opition is to tythe bull onto the main and feed in the top and drop it down ti the wet return .I plan on going with my first plan unless some one has a better way.I have seen some counters done the second way which where fine and other times i have seen there and they had issues mostly due to running on apressuretroll instead of vaporstat.If i do get the job i will have to buy a new camera because i never seen any attempt to pipe a steam as this one is piped and that it works total amazing .Thanks for your opion  peace and good luck clammy
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