Joined on March 11, 2004
Last Post on December 4, 2013
@ December 4, 2013 12:01 AM in Big steam pipes (6") need big wrenches (48")they don't make an aluminum 5-footer.
@ December 3, 2013 11:20 PM in Big steam pipes (6") need big wrenches (48")a 5-foot wrench?
@ December 1, 2013 11:01 PM in NEW BOILER IS BANGING! HELP!a standard Pressuretrol won't keep the pressure low enough to keep steam out of the dry returns. If steam gets that far it can bang. You need a Vaporstat that cannot be set higher than 1 PSI to run this system properly.
And, what MDNLansing says about the near-boiler piping. Here's a shot of one done right, on an older version.
@ December 1, 2013 7:53 PM in No heat on last radsare those 3-inch mains, and what vents are on them?
@ November 28, 2013 10:40 PM in pressuretrolsto 1 or 1.5 and the differential at 0.5. It will cut off at the main setting and cut in a half pound below that.
@ November 28, 2013 10:37 PM in Two Pipe Steam - Air Vents and some other confusionwith great results! Well done!
@ November 28, 2013 10:22 PM in Gas Conversion/ Deteriorating Smoke Pipecan do this. This can come from rain entering the flue, or a too-low stack temp which causes the flue gases to condense.
Have a pro check it out.
@ November 28, 2013 2:08 PM in little flames and end of tubes when unit is offturn off the gas and call a pro NOW!
@ November 28, 2013 1:58 PM in Carbon Monoxide Issues - HELP!this thing's gonna kill you.
Do NOT allow the installing company back in your house. Find someone who knows what they're doing and have them take over. Then take whatever action is needed to get your money back from Beavis and Butt-head, including repairing the damage to your siding. It might also be a good idea to put in a complaint to your local licensing authorities.
@ November 28, 2013 1:29 PM in Possible issueif you can do so without disturbing the asbestos, remove and check it.
This system should run at VERY low pressure. You need a Vaporstat on the boiler instead of the usual Pressuretrol to keep it at a low enough level. This keeps the steam from reaching the dry returns.
The radiators/baseboards should not have vents on them at all. The air vents thru the dry (overhead) return line to where that Gorton #1 is. If some don't vent, you may have water pockets in their return lines.
Here's a thread from several years ago describing a similar system we ran into:
Where are you located? We might know someone near you who can help.
@ November 28, 2013 1:23 PM in reduce fuel consumption?where you're located- we may know someone near you who can help.
@ November 28, 2013 1:21 PM in Jacobus - Maid O Mist #1would also allow this same basic vent to be used on convectors, which require slower venting rates.
@ November 28, 2013 1:00 PM in New steam boilerstill, there is a right way to do welded headers. The one at the link Dave in QCA posted is the correct way.
Steel and cast-iron expand and contract at different rates. You need a bit of movement to allow for this, which threaded joints will provide. In the pic Dave linked to, you see the risers come up above the header, elbow over and then down to connect to the welded portion. This provides two "swing joints" on each riser that allow for movement.
I had consulted on the job in that pic, quite a few years ago. It is a VECO system. ISTR Jamie had someone make that header for him, as you did for yours. Along with a bunch of Gorton #2 and #1 main vents and a slight correction to the dry return piping to allow air to vent, it made a HUGE difference in how that system worked.
@ November 28, 2013 12:26 PM in HELP! New to steam and have some issuesThat's not too far from Baltimore. Click our company name below for contact info.
@ November 28, 2013 12:19 PM in Please help with a crazy systemthen you have dirty or oily water in the system, which makes lousy steam. When the water becomes contaminated again, the problem re-appears.
Keep doing what you're doing, and eventually it will remain clean. Just remember each time to let the boiler cool down before re-filling, and fire it up to make steam after refilling to drive off the entrained air.
@ November 26, 2013 11:52 PM in Possible issuelike a Tudor system water seal. Read about the Tudor system here:
If I'm right, this system has or should have a central vent on the dry return near the boiler. Can you find that and post a pic?
@ November 24, 2013 8:17 PM in main return line trapsyou don 't need that condensate tank at all. Gravity return worked for the Dead Men......
@ November 24, 2013 11:36 AM in New steam boilertaking some pictures of the boiler, system, radiators, main vents etc so we can see what you have?
@ November 24, 2013 12:21 AM in main return line trapsof one or more of your radiators and post here- let's see what you have.
@ November 20, 2013 10:21 PM in conversion from one pipe steam to hot waterhad the first-floor rads on separate runouts and risers from the steam mains. It was common, however, to put third-floor rads (when used) on the same risers as second-floor rads.
@ November 19, 2013 11:42 PM in conversion from one pipe steam to hot waterwith the piping is run a new set of mains and returns in the basement to serve one of the floors. Since almost all of these systems have separate risers for first and second floor radiators, this would avoid making any changes in the units themselves.
Then install two properly-sized boilers, vent both sets of mains properly and you're done.
Steam is a better solution than hot-water in this situation, since if the tenant doesn't pay the utility bills and they get shut off, the pipes won't freeze and damage the building.