Joined on March 11, 2004
Last Post on March 7, 2014
@ February 26, 2014 11:53 PM in Proper AFG head?it's been a while. We don't see too many Hagos around here- Sid's packed up and left, and R.E. Michel no longer carries Hagos.
@ February 26, 2014 11:36 PM in Two pipe Steam with no trapswill outperform those Hoffmans.
@ February 26, 2014 9:48 AM in Proper AFG head?a Hago "B" nozzle, but it's pretty rare.
And if someone is just going by the color of the cap, that's pretty pathetic...............
@ February 26, 2014 9:46 AM in Proper AFG head?is if they supply a burner with the wrong nozzle in it. This happens more frequently than one might think. But the installer is still at fault even though it came like that from the factory- because they didn't check it before putting it in.
@ February 25, 2014 5:30 PM in New burner for oil fired Weil McClain steam boilleroriginally came with the ABC 45CU burner- a sootmaker if there ever was one. The diagram is over on OTT on the Just for Teks page, and it looks like what you're describing. I've replaced a bunch of these things too.
But I get good results from the Blue Angel burners.
@ February 23, 2014 10:54 PM in Adding automatic vent damper to old cast iron boiler?if this was a steam boiler?
@ February 23, 2014 10:48 PM in Short Cyclingon convectors like this, the trap is either installed at the convector's return connection, or it's installed in the basement under the floor. I'd bet on the latter since I didn't see one in your convector pics. See if you can locate a trap or two, and post pics of them.
If there are no traps, you have an Orifice system. Let us know.
@ February 23, 2014 10:31 PM in Help with Steam Efficiencyis a three-pass unit designed for coal firing. So the flue passages inside the boiler are fairly large. This was needed for coal, but NOT for oil or gas firing.
The old oil-burner guys used to put baffles in these big passages to slow down the hot flue gases and make them rub the cast-iron better. This procedure was especially popular during the fuel shortages of World War 2. Without the baffles, the hot gases would stay in the middle of the flue passages and the heat would go right up the chimney.
I've done baffling too, when a complete boiler replacement wasn't going to happen for whatever reason. I'd bet your boiler has no baffles, which is contributing to its prodigious fuel consumption. But even a standard atmospheric steam boiler (to say nothing of a power-burner wet-base type) would be much more efficient than that Redflash, so I'd recommend you replace it.
@ February 20, 2014 7:58 PM in New burner for oil fired Weil McClain steam boillera Wayne model HS burner, otherwise known as the Blue Angel. Like the Carlin, Riello, Beckett AFG with L- and V-heads and the Sunray burners, the head is adjustable. If the head is out of adjustment, properly tuning it will be very difficult.
These aren't bad burners if set up right. You can find the manuals online. Looks to me like you need a better service organization.
@ February 19, 2014 11:07 AM in BEST WAY TO PIPE A 2 PIPE STEAM CONVERSION TO A 3 ZONE HOT WATERis not to convert it at all- unless you like living dangerously.
A conversion will raise the system's operating pressure over ten times. This WILL uncover any weak points in the piping and radiators, causing leaks which may damage the building.
Also, any given radiator on hot-water will only give off roughly 2/3 of the heat it will deliver with steam. The ability to use smaller radiators for the same heat load was one of steam's many advantages. If you convert, you run the risk of not being able to heat the building during really cold weather.
And if you plan to use a condensing boiler, it will not condense in all but the mildest weather, since you have to get the radiators so hot to provide any heat at all.
Keep the steam and use thermostatic radiator valves. It's just as effective, and a LOT less risky and expensive.
@ February 16, 2014 12:19 AM in Kickstart THIS!http://www.heatinghelp.com/forum-thread/131555/New-steam-mini-tube-system-installed-in-my-own-house-Iron-Fireman-style
@ February 13, 2014 7:20 PM in Trap identificationmade that- same company that made water-seal return elbows. I believe both Tunstall and Barnes & Jones make repair kits for it.
@ February 12, 2014 4:45 PM in Steam RadiatorsItalian Flue radiators, made by American Radiator Co.
If you deal in radiators, you should get Dan's book "E.D.R.". This has ratings for almost every radiator type ever made, including those Italian Flue units.
@ February 12, 2014 9:11 AM in Bleeping blinking lights - what do they all mean??I can tell you that boiler is piped totally wrong.
What's probably happening is the improper piping causes water to be pulled out of the boiler along with the steam. This causes the water level to drop, and the low-water cutoff will then stop the burners. Sometimes you can actually hear the water rushing thru the pipes when this happens- assuming it doesn't cause banging.
Have it repiped properly. Where are you located?
@ February 12, 2014 12:34 AM in Can I replace this pressuretrol with a vaporstatthe loop in the piping. With the control acting like that I'd bet it's plugged. If the pigtail is brass, it can be cleaned. If it's steel, replace it with a brass one.
@ February 9, 2014 9:40 PM in Is this my main vent?the threads are 3/8".
Since it may be difficult to remove that bushing without some serious tools, you can get a short 3/8" nipple and a 1/2"x3/8" reducing coupling. Screw the nipple into the bushing, screw the reducing coupling onto the nipple and screw the #2 vent into the reducing coupling.
The hole in the threaded portion of the vent is only 3/8", so this arrangement should work fine.
If the shorter main is only 5 feet long, you may not need a vent there. After installing the #2 on the long main, see if the steam takes longer to reach the end of the short main than it does to reach the end of the long main. If not, you don't need to upgrade that vent. You want the steam to reach the ends of both mains at about the same time.
@ February 8, 2014 12:19 AM in Idea's as to getting steam horizontally to farthest radiators at other end of house on first floor?any main vents on the steam main feeding this area?
@ February 6, 2014 10:53 PM in Brown Vari Vac Systemthe only difference in a Vari-Vac vac pump is the way it's controlled. Dunham used to make their own pumps, not sure if MEPCO still does. But if all you need is a vac pump, a Hoffman, Skidmore or Shipco unit should work.
@ February 6, 2014 7:24 PM in old supply valves on 2 pipe systemstake some pics of a valve up close, and a couple radiators. Some of these valves had orifices in them that kept steam from reaching the return lines.
Have you found any manufacturer's name on these valves?