Joined on March 11, 2004
Last Post on March 6, 2014
@ February 6, 2014 12:21 PM in header sizea 3-inch header will dry out the steam much better, improving system performance.
@ February 4, 2014 11:18 PM in Oil to Gas conversion"Atmospheric boilers.... are perfectly preset at the factory in 999 times out of 1,000"
Au contraire. I've seen plenty that weren't. Unfortunately 90% of installers just hook them up and walk away without testing anything. Problems I've seen include maladjusted regulators producing flames too high or too low, burners that got dislodged during shipping, wrongly-sized orifices. And if the chimney gets blocked, you can get CO coming out the draft hood. Hopefully the blocked-flue switch will trip, but if it doesn't..................
No matter what you're putting in, combustion testing is not the option that way too many people think it is.
The other issue is efficiency. Atmospheric boilers lose a lot of heat out the base. DOE, with their usual incompetence, doesn't consider this as a loss since the heat is released into the basement- where it goes straight up the chimney. Also, atmospheric burners run with more excess air then well-adjusted power burners do. This also reduces their real-world efficiency.
In the rest of the world, the "blown gas" power burner is king where condensing units are not used. As far as I know, we are the only major country that clings to atmospherics. As American energy standards go up, atmospherics will be the first to be outlawed, so power burners will become the standard.
@ February 4, 2014 3:41 PM in Oil to Gas conversionhave him look it over. He can evaluate it as well as I can.
@ February 4, 2014 11:28 AM in Oil to Gas conversiona 66 series, you would have gotten better results with a Carlin EZ-Gas or a Midco EC. If it's a 68 series, I would have used the EZ-Gas since the 68's flue passages are tighter, and the EC might have trouble moving air thru them. The Riello gas burner would work well too.
Those Wayne burners were designed to convert boilers that are even older than yours, so they don't have the tighter flame pattern of the EZ-Gas, EC and Riello. As a result, their flames can strike the inside of the firing zone, which reduces flame temperatures and causes poor combustion. Adding more air helps, but reduces combustion efficiency as you've seen.
No doubt you are saving money, but we can do better.
@ February 3, 2014 9:06 PM in Replacement options for leaking Burnham V7/V8switching to gas?
@ February 3, 2014 9:01 PM in Anyone buy 4 year old boilers?I'd put conversion burners in both those boilers, no matter what scare tactics Harper111 tries. We have plenty of experience with them, and have never had a badly operating conversion using a Carlin EZ-Gas or Midco EC burner, our two standard units.
And our conversions do pass inspection. To say that no conversion will ever pass inspection is just..... not..... true. As long as the equipment is UL approved for conversion/upgrade usage and is installed to Code, inspectors should not have a problem with them.
If you look at Harper111's posts, you will see he does nothing but try to scare people away from conversion burners. We're sure he works for Burnham, but this has not been proven conclusively. But one day............
@ February 3, 2014 8:47 PM in conversionfor the first floor. Just like a radiator, a steam coil will only emit about 2/3 as much heat on hot-water as it will on steam. And if it needs a trap and is discharging into a condensate tank, it's definitely running on steam.
What is your total radiation load? You may be able to use a boiler with lo-hi-lo firing to accommodate the load variations when different zone valves open and close.
@ February 2, 2014 10:24 PM in burnahm v8 10 min on, 1 min off, 10 min on, 1 min offis probably a "Cycle-Guard". It shuts off every 10-20 minutes to make sure it's getting a good reading even if the water is foaming (which it should not be). Take the white piece of paper off the unit (black box mounted to front of boiler) and you'll probably see the Cycle-Guard name.
@ February 1, 2014 8:54 PM in contractorHe's one of the best. Info here:
@ February 1, 2014 7:32 PM in Oil to Gas Conversion Efficiencyis that it does not have the compact, controlled flame pattern of a flame-retention oil or gas burner.
Back in the days when all we could get were the Midco E-series and the Wayne P-series burners, lower efficiency results were normal in modern smaller boilers since you had to add excess air to keep CO levels down. In a lot of cases the flame would strike the firebox or cast-iron, quenching the flame and causing high CO. Adding more combustion air would help but this reduced efficiency. Also, in some cases the burner fan could not move enough air thru the firing zone on a boiler with tighter flue passages.
With flame-retention burners like the Carlin EZ-Gas, Midco EC and Riello, this is much less of a problem. So we don't use those Wayne P-series burners- there are much better choices.
@ February 1, 2014 7:17 PM in Oil to Gas conversionif they can sell you a new boiler.
Maybe your plumber does not have experience with conversion burners.
But we do, that's why I can say your boiler would run well with a good conversion burner.
Also, you can get rid of the old oil tank, and you won't have to worry about the oil company failing to deliver oil.
@ January 31, 2014 9:49 PM in Oil to Gas Conversion Efficiencya CSFH/CSFE model?
If so, that Wayne burner is not a good match for that boiler. It's not a flame-retention burner and cannot develop the static air pressure needed to fire these boilers.
We've converted several of these with the Carlin EZ-Gas burner and we get combustion efficiencies in the 82-84% range.
@ January 31, 2014 2:40 PM in Can anyone identify this Radiator?closest thing I can find is the Aetna Flue, made by American Radiator Co. The Aetna is not as wide as that one, so I'd estimate 10 square feet per section.
@ January 31, 2014 11:51 AM in Oil to Gas conversionwith a power gas burner. You don't necessarily need to replace the entire boiler. Here's a similar one we did:
You definitely want a licensed chimney contractor to look at the chimney. There are a lot of factors that go into whether or not to re-line it, and the best way to determine that is to have a pro look at it. If it needs a liner, use stainless steel, NOT aluminum- aluminum doesn't last in a chimney that has served a coal or oil boiler.
@ January 30, 2014 10:04 PM in Main Vents; Can't find them!but is there anything at all between the trap and the boiler room?
And what's on the other main?
@ January 30, 2014 9:59 PM in Steam Trap ID Helpsome of the check valves in these units are stuck- go thru and make sure they all work.
And get rid of those radiator vents. Upgrade the main and dry return vents too.
@ January 30, 2014 6:05 PM in Steam Trap ID Helpis this system located?
That unit might be an "impulse valve"- see the Donnelly system in chapter 15 of Lost Art.
@ January 30, 2014 1:03 AM in Please help with banging steam pipes!if you can't find anyone close, get in touch. I've been known to travel when a steam heating consultation is needed. Might have to wait until spring though, the way things are going here in Baltimore.
You don't need a completely new heating system, just someone who knows how to work with it.
@ January 30, 2014 12:47 AM in "Precise" Vapor Radiator ValveSaw this for the first time, on an Orifice system in southern Pennsylvania. It was made by a company called Haynes-Thomson of Philadelphia. The house it's in was built about 1918-1920.
The orificing feature of this valve is a limit stop in the ring that encircles the handle, working much the same way as a temperature limit stop in a shower faucet.
The unique dimensions of this valve mean that if you replace it with a valve of today's standard dimensions, you need an extension coupling.
Anyone else ever see this type of valve?