Heating Help

Another question

@ December 6, 2002 6:00 PM in Oil Burner Lockout (revisted)

Is there a foot valve in the tank, and if so, is it opening all the way? Is the check before the Firomatic working properly? To Learn More About This Contractor, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Contractor"

Bad connection somewhere

@ December 6, 2002 5:54 PM in Voltage drops

could be at one of the servicing or emergency switches. Pretty easy to find the problem if you know what to look for. But I agree if you're not comfortable with this, call in an electrician. To Learn More About This Contractor, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Contractor"

I haven't heard of KEK

@ December 6, 2002 5:47 PM in surging and vinegar

but according to Frank Gerety, vinegar is a good way to get built-up sediment out of older steam boilers. He gives the following instructions: Run a temporary line from the bottom to the top of the boiler, with a bronze 3-piece circulator such as a B&G 100 in it to circulate the water/vinegar mixture. Pipe a basket strainer in the suction line to the circ to collect the crud. Fill the boiler to the top with water and enough vinegar to bring the pH down to 5. Operate the pump for as long as it takes to get the job done. When finished, wash the vinegar out of the boiler with a high-pressure hose, and adjust the pH of the boiler water to between 7 and 11. Of course, if this boiler has gaskets between the sections, check with the manufacturer before adding any chemical to the water. Info from Dan's PM column, August 1991. To Learn More About This Contractor, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Contractor"

Staging Steam Boilera

@ December 6, 2002 5:32 PM in Multiple Steam Boiler Stages

Slant/fin does this with their Caravan series. The man to talk to is Noel Murdough- e-mail him at nmurdough@slantfin.com . To Learn More About This Contractor, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Contractor"

Only on the old ones

@ December 6, 2002 3:21 PM in How far should the disk be open on a Radiator steam valve??

all the newer ones I've seen lately opened 1/2-2/3 of the way. But when I've put them in they've worked. You'd think it would affect the velocity- but look at the size of the air vent. Steam can't get in any faster than that. Sure, I'd prefer a fully-opening valve- but what are you gonna do if you can't get one? To Learn More About This Contractor, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Contractor"

That's what I'd do, Eddie

@ December 6, 2002 3:17 PM in burner cycle timing on a vapor system

then you only have to adjust it (if needed) once! To Learn More About This Contractor, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Contractor"

That's strange

@ December 6, 2002 2:03 PM in Steam System won't heat unless pressure is at least 3 psi

Could it be a trap for a convector that was piped in under the floor? Can you take a picture and post it here? To Learn More About This Contractor, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Contractor"

I see that a lot

@ December 6, 2002 1:28 PM in How far should the disk be open on a Radiator steam valve??

but so far I haven't had trouble with one. To Learn More About This Contractor, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Contractor"

I still have Netscape 4.7 on my laptop

@ December 6, 2002 1:24 PM in New Computer

I think most of the 4.x series are similar. Open Windows Explorer, navigate to C:Program FilesNetscapeUsers. You will see a folder with your e-mail address as the name. Copy all the files in this folder, and the Archive, Mail and News folders which also appear, to a floppy or CD-RW. Transfer the files to the new system, install Netscape on the new system and import your files. You can download the latest Netscape for free at www.netscape.com. The latest versions of Netscape (6.x and 7.x, there never was a version 5) will import files from versions 4.x. I won't go into the details here, instructions are in the Netscape Help files. One of my e-newsletters that came in today mentions yet more security flaws in Internet Explorer and Outlook. We rarely hear of a similar flaw in Netscape- wonder why that is? To Learn More About This Contractor, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Contractor"

Are they located

@ December 6, 2002 12:44 PM in Steam System won't heat unless pressure is at least 3 psi

on the last radiator connections on the steam mains? To Learn More About This Contractor, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Contractor"

Oil vs. Gas

@ December 6, 2002 12:42 PM in Grey Honeywell Box with a Red Button

Ben, if that oil burner is 20 years old or less, it's a "flame-retention" type which burns without producing smoke and uses 15-30% less fuel than older units. If this is the case, and the burner is properly tuned, your combustion efficiency is pretty good. Since it's not running properly now, you really need to have a service tech come to straighten it out. On steam systems, I see a lot of inefficiency in the system itself- many due to venting or insulation problems. If the burner is OK but the system is sluggish and uses a lot of oil, I'd find out what's keeping the steam from reaching the radiators quickly. If your oil burner is an older type, a new burner will boost your efficiency. I looked in one supplier's catalog, and a residential-size gas conversion burner (Wayne P250) cost about 40% more than an oil burner (Beckett AF). Of course, if you have a really old boiler (especially a round one) that used to burn coal, your over-all efficiency won't be that good. The other issue is fuel suppliers. Oil companies are in competition with one another, but gas utilities operate as near-monopolies. Even with the halfhearted deregulation efforts in some areas, the utilities pretty much have a lock on the market. But if you heat with oil and don't like the service you're getting, you can always switch suppliers. It might make sense to stick with oil. I did. To Learn More About This Contractor, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Contractor"

I think it's a Ducane

@ December 6, 2002 11:48 AM in burner identification

my parents' Lennox furnasty has a Ducane that looks like yours. To Learn More About This Contractor, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Contractor"

Bret, does this system

@ December 6, 2002 11:43 AM in Steam System won't heat unless pressure is at least 3 psi

have traps on the radiator outlets, or shutoff valves on the outlets and air vents on the radiators? Somehow, the steam isn't making it to one side of the house. I think Noel is right, one side isn't venting the air properly. If the system has traps on the radiators, it may also have traps piped between the end of the steam main and the dry return. These act as air vents, and if they fail they will cause a similar condition. To Learn More About This Contractor, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Contractor"

The books

@ December 4, 2002 6:39 PM in Broomell vapor system (need information)

are a good read, even if you never intend to lift a wrench in anger. And Dan offers a money-back guarantee. Does the thermostat have three wires connected to it? If so, it's probably an old "Series 10" unit- an early attempt at increased sensitivity. If the thermostat cable at the boiler has only 2 wires connected, that's the problem. You'll have to get a new 2-wire thermostat, and connect it to the same 2 wires used on the boiler end. If you're nervous, go to the Find a Contractor page of this site. Follow the instructions to locate someone in your area. To Learn More About This Contractor, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Contractor"

Broomell is covered in Dan's books

@ December 4, 2002 5:57 PM in Broomell vapor system (need information)

"The Lost Art of Steam Heating" and "The Lost Art of Steam Heating Companion". Both are available on the Books and More page of this site, are well-written and highly recommended. Your temperature fluctuations are probably due to that old thermostat. They just weren't as accurate then as they are now. A new thermostat, even a basic one like the round Honeywell T87 series, can control room temperature without the wide temperature swings. Typically the water level should not be over 1/2 in the sight glass. Depending on what type of low-water cutoff you have, you may be able to add an automatic feeder to it. I don't get the part where the basement radiators are one-pipe. Is the boiler located in a pit, below those radiators? To Learn More About This Contractor, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Contractor"

That's cool!

@ December 3, 2002 11:32 PM in has anyone seen this?

I like 1-800-783-2643 or 1-800-STEAMHD To Learn More About This Contractor, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Contractor"

Sounds like you have

@ December 3, 2002 10:53 PM in Steam Radiator Won't Heat

some bad or undersized vents. To Learn More About This Contractor, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Contractor"

Never seen that one, TP

@ December 3, 2002 10:36 PM in Steam Vents

you can bet I'll call tomorrow to request a copy! To Learn More About This Contractor, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Contractor"

My Take

@ December 3, 2002 10:33 PM in You know your a Wet hed when:

You know you're a Wethead when someone looking in your boiler room sees all the plugged tees and various parts lying around from all the different piping setups you've tried. To Learn More About This Contractor, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Contractor"

There are No stupid questions in steam heating

@ December 3, 2002 10:26 PM in One Pipe Steam Questions

except the ones you don't ask. So ask away, that's why we're here! Those radiator shutoffs do not need replacement. You just need to re-pack them. Get some good graphite-impregnated string packing- any good hardware store should carry it. With the system off and cold, unscrew the nut and wrap the string around the stem (rod) clockwise, using enough to almost completely fill up the nut. Tighten the nut enough so you feel some resistance when turning the knob. Recheck for proper tightness after the system has heated up. I'd check all your valves and repack those that need it. Also check that your system isn't building too much pressure. The pressure cutout on the boiler should stop the burner at a maximum of 2 pounds. This may be contributing to the loud vents and steam leaks. If the steam does not distribute thru the system at low pressures, check the vents at the ends of the steam mains. If there aren't any, or they're too small, have the proper ones installed. If you're not comfortable doing the above, go to the Find a Contractor page of this site to locate a good steam man near you. Radiator vents close on temperature, and it is normal for them to cool off and open, then close again when steam gets inside them. I'm not familiar with Webstone vents at all. Can you take a picture of one and post it here? Once you get the system running properly, you will likely use considerably less fuel. If you don't already have it, get Dan's book "The Lost Art of Steam Heating", available on the Books and More page of this site. To Learn More About This Contractor, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Contractor"

Gorton Vents

@ December 3, 2002 11:57 AM in Trane Vapor System

You can call Gorton at 908-276-1323 - they're in New Jersey. Ask for Ken Kunz and tell him I sent you. If no one in your area carries their gear, they will sell you what you need direct. Gorton's web site is www.gorton-valves.com . To Learn More About This Contractor, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Contractor"

Inside the Syracuse Packless Radiator Valve

@ December 3, 2002 11:00 AM in HO fixed his Return Trap- Next Problem

This appeared in the 1915 Pierce, Butler & Pierce Fitter's Book. It wasn't a coincidence after all! To Learn More About This Contractor, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Contractor"