Heating Help

.

@ February 1, 2012 1:42 PM in System balancing help

Not sure if this was asked, or mentioned. Are the pipes insulated?

ah

@ February 1, 2012 1:42 PM in Looking for Steam pro in SW Connecticut

I saw your other post. We're in your area, but only work on oil customers systems. If I come across a steam guy in the area I'll let you know.

.

@ February 1, 2012 9:08 AM in Looking for Steam pro in SW Connecticut

Is the unit oil or gas fired?

.

@ January 31, 2012 3:56 PM in Legionnaire's fopund at Luxor in Vegas

I'd think that if you kept the tank at 160°, that would kill off the bacteria at the tank. then there is nothing left to grow down stream. Then you could mix at the tank.

Though, I suppose that the bacteria comes in with the cold water to begin with, so it can grow anywhere that is downstream from the mix point. So unless we mix at the point where the water comes out, we can never fully guarantee that there won't be bacteria growth. Is this a no win situation, and we are just trying to eliminate as many possibilities as we can, or as practical?

.

@ January 27, 2012 1:59 PM in Testo 327 Kit 4 Smoke Tester

I'm sure it will work fine. To tell you the truth, I barely use mine anymore. Most adjustments are done by excess air. I just use the smoke tester to make sure I'm not pulling soot into the analyzer.

:)

@ January 27, 2012 1:33 PM in Riello 40 series F5

:)

well

@ January 27, 2012 1:30 PM in Testo 327 Kit 4 Smoke Tester

It's a manual smoke tester. You put paper in it an pull 10 times. I doubt there's a manual. How bad could it be?

nope

@ January 27, 2012 12:49 PM in Filling steam boiler. Is this right?

There will be water in every pipe up to the level in the gauge glass. So those two pipes should have water part way up, but the water should never get to the vents, even if you are filling it fast. That's why I think the bottom boiler tapping is plugged.

One problem

@ January 27, 2012 12:09 PM in Filling steam boiler. Is this right?

I don't think the gauge glass is plugged. If it is it's most likely just the bottom half where the water sits. The top would most likely not be plugged. Once the water level reached that point it would spill over and fill the glass.

It seems more likely that the return tapping in the boiler is plugged. Feed water would find it much easier to go up and over the Hartford Loop and up to the vents.

It looks like there is a drain valve in the back of the boiler where the fresh water goes in. If this valve is removed it looks like a straight shot into the boiler. I'd use some sort of tool to reach in there and clear out whatever is clogging it.

Just my opinion.

not sure

@ January 27, 2012 8:20 AM in Testo 327 Kit 4 Smoke Tester

if this is the current one or not, but here is a link that shows a testo smoke tester:

http://www.jmwlimited.co.uk/Testo_Smoke_Pump.html

No fair Alan, jumping the gun!

@ January 27, 2012 7:46 AM in Happy Birthday Dan Holohan

Happy Birthday, Dan. Hope you also feel spry, not just spy, whoever that is.

Hope it's a great day!

well

@ January 25, 2012 3:46 PM in Installing a vaporstat - but which one??

I don't think there is one that will do low ounces and pounds. You may need to install 2 if you need that flexibility. The L408J1009 will do 0 to 16 oz, and the L408J1017 will do 0 to 4 lbs. I don't know how accurate the second one would be for the ounces of pressure you want.

Why do you need the flexibility? 

I'd say

@ January 24, 2012 1:01 PM in Better to cap or vent?

Why vent a pipe that's not doing anything? It may help the main vent a bit, but it will also use precious fuel to vent air out of a pipe that won't be heating anything. There will also be some moisture coming from that vent and depositing on whatever is in that closet. I say cap it.

Truely

@ January 24, 2012 12:07 PM in Congratulations John Barba...

An excellent choice for this years recipient!

I'm with Slim

@ January 18, 2012 4:56 PM in end switch for zone valve v8043

Why deal with the end switch. It is a pain.

Unless you have a lo of free time. If you have a lot of extra time, go for it. if you have a lot of extra money, send it to me :)

me too

@ January 17, 2012 3:27 PM in new primary

I agree with Mac on this one. Genisys is the only control we use.

no

@ January 12, 2012 12:23 PM in The russians are coming! The russians are coming!

I skipped the Nova show for the Earth one about caves. I'll keep an eye out for the repeat of the bombing one.

ah

@ January 12, 2012 12:21 PM in Boiler block cracks

Yes, per the manufacturers instructions only 1 - 3" riser is needed, two won't hurt. The equalizer helps keep the steam drier. Where it is located, steam at speed could easily shoot water right past it. The way it's piped it looks more like a drip, used to remove excess condensate before it gets to the header. In that case you don't have a true equalizer line.

A long Hartford Loop can be prone to steam hammer if the water level drops.

oooo

@ January 12, 2012 11:20 AM in Boiler block cracks

Lot's of problems with the near boiler piping. The two risers are going into the Tee from opposite sides, The equalizer is in the wrong place, the Hartford loop should be as short as possible at the equalizer connection, but appears to be 12" +.

The way the risers are piped to the header may be causing a lot of stress on the boiler as things expand and contract. Check the manufacturers instructions.

.

@ January 12, 2012 7:32 AM in Location for #2 radiator vent

Yeah, you could use both tappings on the same end. It will get the steam to the top of the radiator quickly and then the lower vent will finish filling the radiator with steam.

.

@ January 12, 2012 7:19 AM in Blue Leaker:

Maybe someone used soot sticks in previous years, instead of vacuuming it out. I've seen the smooth crusty stuff you're talking about, but never equated it with a leak.

Another possibility is, since your original test showed the stack temp much lower than the final, that it may have flame may have been compromised causing a build up of condensate on start up.

Just a thought.

.

@ January 11, 2012 5:00 PM in Location for #2 radiator vent

According to the venting capacity chart I have, 1/8" open pipe will vent 2.0 CFM @ 2oz.

A Gorton D will vent .54 @ 2 oz.  If the "D" is all you need then you are fine.

But you do need to vent this radiator from the lower tapping. It looks, in the picture, like there is one.