Joined on May 7, 2004
Last Post on February 28, 2014
@ February 28, 2014 7:45 PM in Gas fireand i thought
There wasnt much heat coming out of it though ,
then the guy said
" That is a digital fireplace,"
it really looks like a fireplace buh no heat comes out of it..
like Mark i thought that you had only one reply ..lol
we live in an ever changing world ..
@ February 28, 2014 7:24 PM in Got my Sorbox today.this century ...
The maint . on it would certainly be less involved than heat exchangers.
Style in some Photos , when you have it lashed up..
@ February 28, 2014 7:03 PM in Howdy folks! And a few questions...so , i suppose you know the drill lol
Any Pics of the near boiler piping as is..
because with what you have said,
you would like to get the basic H down one time clearly .
@ February 28, 2014 6:49 PM in Hard Grey buildup in radiant systemover the years i noticed something like that.
my thought at the time is
'This looks a Lot like gypcrete or cement or maybe Blue clay. '
thing is, it was under pressure ,
tested prior to the pour ,
in both cases and did not have any way for it to get into the system .
so i am going to go with Harvey on this.. is there perhaps a piece of galvy anywhere including the potable water ?
i know ....take a look in the strainer of the fast fill maybe this is being introduced thru that system ....
@ February 28, 2014 6:40 PM in Wiring ALPHA 55 vs.Grundfoss 15-42i have never wired an alfa circ to turn off an on through a relay ,
it has a design that does not require it to be .
it slows down to almost a friction less type speed when there is no where for the fluid to go .
while it is "on" it can sort of pick up the fact that a valve just opened. then if another opens as well it picks up a bit to meet it's need as well.
turning it off and on with a relay is something i haven't had a reason to do.
@ February 28, 2014 6:21 PM in Outdoor reset0
this looks like a fancy way to say water , however in this case
the top 0 is to depict the "System
the H a bridge
and the other 0
with the new style SR501 R and a bridge coupled with a variable speed on the system side in the top 0 you have basic independent things happening . one is the boiler is happier sooner and the system run s on a variable speed variable temp rather than the bang on bang off burner....
it might pay for itself within very short order .
@ February 28, 2014 6:05 PM in Apologies and explanationYou are just Way to honest lol
reminds me of when i sent the 23 megs of programs as an e-mail attachment ...lol
well... er : )))
@ February 28, 2014 5:39 PM in Has anyone ever heard of this?A few things come to mind ,
one is live weight vs dead load over span of engineered lumber .
Another is the crush blocking and rim and box detail.
another is ,is this an entirely "framed house and what kind of framing , if not say the differences between balloon framing , is it a log cabin ?
moisture even in the form of rain on a flat deck while a big moisture problem , i think it would show in the decking even more than the tji or bci or whatever..
there are two completely different dimensions to the cords and the bearing parts of tji and bci type , the speed ties do not even fit if there are two different types used on the same job...
1/2 " displacement is different than 1/2" shrinkage .
deflection and coefficients of elasticity are listed with each .
there are a few ideas .
one thing that can happen too is framing with snow and ice on the deck could make some difference as well , shrinking though of the top coord is a first for me and our weather conditions are some of the most severe in the world.
@ February 18, 2014 2:27 AM in i think i have discovered a new missing variable ,:)
these are something that i have not noticed as much without a T.V. in my home.
sometimes , i'd watch the news and i would think that it was getting warmer , more than likely though it was enraging me and it just does not show on me ...:))
@ February 17, 2014 7:48 PM in i think i have discovered a new missing variable ,in heat loss calcs....
my neighbours forced air system blows so much heat out of everywhere i need to factor that in on my heat gain lol..
Hope that helps..
@ February 15, 2014 5:42 PM in Running Out of Hot Water With a Megastor -40might not use the hot water the rest of the day and in the summer...or the useage may not be as much ...
there is one thing that helps somewhat , and it is most likely to become a requirement across the planet as macro economics drills down to the micro in search of hidden resources.. it is called a recirulation system that coupled with anti scald valves will somewhat decrease the wait time for domestic hot water . and ,... bring hot water out of the system for longer periods of time . because of that i think i would turn Grunfoss outside sales man for a momment and have you look into their recirc system with a timer and P/T differential bypass . the stainless steel circulator does not effect the existing system on non peak useage , what i mean by that is if it is not running your system works fine any way , however if you have the timer set for 1/2 hr or so before jumping up out of bed or when ever you chose to get the hot water to circulate , it will save a great deal of water and discomfort waiting for the temp to be what you expect.
there is a temp . diverting by pass valve that you install under a vanity or sink that allows the water to bleed a small amount of hot water (which has cooled down) into the cold water line..
and as the circulator must get the water from somewhere, it pulls it back through the cold water line so that hot water can be brought to the faucet. once that happens and the temp in the hot side is achieved...
it quit bleeding into the cold side..
the circ being a pressure differential circ, knows this as it were and slows to a halt burning very little power or electricity..
. maybe you could look into that .
@ February 15, 2014 5:19 AM in using lots of oil quickly!when you say you hear hotwater running thru the baseboards as well , what you are hearing is a pipe that is not filled with fluid , that is air that you hear.
a full pipe delivers the heat properly , one with air in it , Not So Much....
find someone who can install a spirovent and check the pressure in a captive air (expansion tank ) , then you will get a bit more of what you are paying for.. icemans saying, when you stick the tank ,( to determine how much fuel you have ) , you may be getting some different reading if the place you are "Measuring from is not the bottom of the tank.
Iron mans saying that when it gets these blasts of super cold weather it eats even more fuel oil a day just to keep things going like normal.. so, check on what we are all saying because each one of those things is a definite reason ...
i hope that helps..
@ February 15, 2014 4:58 AM in What is this thing?insulate the pipes and get some insulation in the attic , that's waaaaay to expensive to live with like that..
@ February 15, 2014 4:30 AM in Pourous copper tubing (?)one was on a commercial copper 4 inch Vent in a town by the ocean where it would rain massive amounts of water and wore the pipe as thin as tin foil..
and another time 3" copper on a steamer header i am soooo thankful i could hear the hiss or it might have cut off one of my arms..or fingers ..as i reached up to the pipe that was made of the right stuff..
copper can wear down from over pumping small sediments also ..
that in turn carried along with air can cause something that sometimes looks like small bubbles on the outside of a pipe..
copper is tight or it would not be used to pipe expensive gasses... and used in science experiments .
@ January 23, 2014 4:48 AM in Hot water storage tankand add 1/2 ips to 3/4 copper fittings near boiler at coil.
come away from there with plenty of 3/4" copper so that you can add some 3/4" t's with a boiler drain valve on each side /S & R of coil that can be valved off to clean the coil from time to time .
having some unions near by helps also in the event that a coil needs to be replaced.
removing the bolts and replacing them one at a time with stainless steel thru bolts ,wide washers and brass nuts also well worth the time and effort now .
the tempering valve could go after a take off on the hot water side of your water heater for higher temp wate for the kitchen sink ...
foam insulation is cheap enough to insulate the hot from the coil to the cold of the water heater .
best thing too is keep the pex 24" or so away from the boiler or water heater using copper coming away from the both .
Good going. !
@ January 14, 2014 5:27 PM in Riello Burner making noisewith removable covers is that you can remove the cover take it outside and clean it periodically.
like us it needs to be able to breath , it has a bit of a dust collector in the box and it is black . if it looks brown or any other colour it is probably going to be able to breath better just by cleaning it ....
give that a try ...
it cannot hurt it to do that much ...
@ January 13, 2014 2:30 PM in 3/8" aluminum pans? [and 3/8" manifolds for that matter]why not use pex -a Rehau , Wirsbo ? isnt that good enough ? long time back Stadler made some too i think it was 10 mm or something like that..
@ January 13, 2014 2:23 PM in DHW coil help pleasemanufacturers requirements.
think wide... W i d e n your perspective now ... you might be able to use a near-by flat surface to mount your near boiler piping ...
then tou would make a suppy and return to that spot ...
that you would do to make working on it in the future a dream rather than a nightmare.
take your time .. think of the zones and zone valve controller where they can be easily reached ... it may be that the manifold bolted to the wall adjacent to the boilers left hand side , (In what appears to be a hall way) might be the easiest placement ...
it is close enough yet is free from encumbrances ... then you could purge the lines and everything from a place that doesn't require standing on one ear while working on it....
i am in a chat room that has a "Doodle" screen....
pipes can be drawn in colour and its quicker to describe in picture than words...
maybe if you click on my contact and send me a message i can give you the addy..
my name is
@ January 13, 2014 10:06 AM in DHW coil help pleasethis oil burner is a very clean buring unit . at the moment he is looking for some rudimentary help in getting the parts and pieces together and flying in the right formations.
that way , when he has things looking like they are in order he will be able to have the burner tech dial in the combustion .
that alone will save quite a bit of time when there is one available.
i see nothing wrong in that approach to be honest with you.
by running down the new 24 gauge stove pipe and the draw bands and getting them screwed together with three mechanical fasteners per joint is likely something that is within his abilities.
getting it together early, allows him to get the plumbing together and find clear paths for the headder , zones and mixing valves. the electrical lay out and oil lines considered now for a clean install, will then have a home that can be laid in straight and secured ...
so far , i see a home owner with the idea of getting as much of the leg work done as he can and he is making it happen .
@ January 13, 2014 7:45 AM in DHW coil help pleaseand my life is upside down ...
i have been drinking gallons of water every day and sweating this off for nearly 2 weeks.
my attention span is close to a broccli ...maybe...
the stuck answer is 18 " to the barometric T .
i use a draw band at the base near the boiler , to a 16" length to the T then a riser in your case to 2 adjustable 90's one vertical stepped over and the other on an angle by 90 ish to another draw band to the length to your chimney .
then when ever you clean it you loosen both draw bands and put the entire piece in a green garbage bag , take it out of the place and clean it in the open air someplace.
that way you have clear access to the stack and the top of the boiler ....
sorry i took so long to get back ...
@ January 11, 2014 9:43 PM in Water Hammer After Powers MM430 Instaland the drag is finding a jet vent that size....
@ January 11, 2014 9:12 PM in DHW coil help pleasebefore you get going ...
the return to the boiler...
i know this is a drag buh is that 3/4" pipe IT ?
take some hard thought now and do yourself a huge favor and upsize that if so.
the yellow milk jug looked like a cork in the stack sorry.... you have plenty of space to get at it ... ok... one thing then were it my new lash up with that much space for the right parts , i would make a mad dash for some pavers to get it up off the deck .
rock it away from the wall stick in two pavers on the flat , rock it back at the wall and stick in the other two.. that will get it off the deck a ways and that,s always a good thing .
it leaves a little ledge to put tools and nowhere for stuff to drop down and become a total mind bind trying to retrieve things ..