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Neal

Neal

Joined on April 25, 2006

Last Post on September 3, 2010

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Because

@ September 3, 2010 5:13 PM in How To Disassemble Steam Radiator

Excellent suggestions.

We're taking it apart because currently there are ten 2' sections linked together (21' long) and since it no longer works the client wants it out of her living room.

We got sidetracked today but will attack the process tomorrow.

Thank you again for sharing your expertise and experience.

Neal

Very Reassuring

@ September 3, 2010 11:24 AM in How To Disassemble Steam Radiator

Unlike the joining of the sections, there isn't a place for a lever to get a purchase and un-cam/un-press the pieces. Especially with the fresh broken screwdriver tip stuck between the sections.

I'll be trying the gentle fulcrum technique soon.

Film at eleven. (another great phrase being killed by technology)

Thanks for the support.

Neal

Thanks

@ September 3, 2010 12:03 AM in How To Disassemble Steam Radiator

Thank you, Joe.

That's what we were looking for.

Apparently, the sections are joined with a special "crimping" type tool. We're thinking that if we put a block under the joint and push, the sections will disconnect.

Thanks again for the timely guidance.

Neal

How To Disassemble Steam Radiator

@ September 2, 2010 3:38 PM in How To Disassemble Steam Radiator

We're trying to remove a 2-pipe radiator that someone helpfully installed on a 1-pipe system and we're not sure how to take the sections apart.

I've removed the bolt from between the sections (even though it appears in the photo).

It's a wall unit that has ten 2' sections. We've tried wiggling and levering and nothing seems to work. They're in very good shape. It would be a shame to have to break out the sledge.

Any suggestions would be most gratefully appreciated.

Thanks.

Neal

@ May 18, 2006 8:58 PM in Heating Design/Update

The boiler in question is in Lincoln Park.

@ May 18, 2006 8:23 PM in Heating Design/Update

Thanks for following up. It's nice to be missed. I've been immersing myself in learning, with the books and, on a marginally related topic, electricity with Carol Fey. At the moment, the closest steam professional is boilerpro, and he's quite a way out of town. So the issue has been tabled for the moment. Though, if anyone has any additional suggestions, they would be gratefully welcomed. Thanks. Neal

@ May 4, 2006 1:07 AM in Heating Design/Update

The books arrived this afternoon. I'll be devouring them directly.

@ May 3, 2006 11:26 PM in Heating Design/Update

First, I stand corrected. I will not ever refer to a boiler as a furnace (or a furance), ever again. Further proof of my ignorance and why I'm glad to be surrounded by such knowledgeable pro's. Next, re: > Looking at east side -
> above boiler, I don't think I see any end of main
> vents. If there are none indeed, then having some
> added (as well as at the top of your risers) will
> improve heat delivery by nearly bringing steam to
> each radiator simultaneously.
>
I'm not sure if the system has any or not. There is a lot going on around the boiler (is "pipes" a forbidden word?). I have plenty of pictures, though. What am I looking for? Where would they be in relation to the boiler. > Ammark
> makes thermostatic valves that go on the supply
> side of one pipe radiators, otherwise all the
> others brands go on the air vent hole.

Are there advantages to supply side vs. air vent hole placement? Thanks. Neal

Heating Design/Update - The Photos

@ May 3, 2006 1:04 PM in Heating Design/Update

Inspired by your support (and a conversation with Boilerpro), I've gathered more concrete information about the furnace. Also, I mentioned the site, and the help, to my aunt, and she is thrilled at the prospects of finally having comfortable heat for herself and the tenant downstairs. Here's what I've got. (It seems like a more contemporary furnace than I'd been led to believe. I apologize to those who might have been expecting a lost treasure.) Weil-McLain Co. Inc., Michigan City, IN Hydronic Division Model LG-5 Series #2 Net I.B.R. Output Steam- 900 sq. ft. Water: 250.4 M.B.H. AGA Rating btu/hr Input: 360,000 Output: 288,000 Min. Safety Relief Valve Cap - 288 lbs/hr A.S.M.E. Max WP Water: 50 psi Steam: 15 psi If it's of any value, the furnace is serviced by Emanuel Bros. (Chicago) and the last service was 10/05. There is also a McDonnell No. 101-A General Purpose Valve in the mix here (see photos). I've also attached some photos. To make things interesting, scrap ducting was piled on top of the furnace. It is not functional or connected to anything. Again, thanks for all of your support and encouragement. Neal

Heating Design/Update - The Photos

@ May 3, 2006 1:04 PM in Heating Design/Update

Inspired by your support (and a conversation with Boilerpro), I've gathered more concrete information about the furnace. Also, I mentioned the site, and the help, to my aunt, and she is thrilled at the prospects of finally having comfortable heat for herself and the tenant downstairs. Here's what I've got. (It seems like a more contemporary furnace than I'd been led to believe. I apologize to those who might have been expecting a lost treasure.) Weil-McLain Co. Inc., Michigan City, IN Hydronic Division Model LG-5 Series #2 Net I.B.R. Output Steam- 900 sq. ft. Water: 250.4 M.B.H. AGA Rating btu/hr Input: 360,000 Output: 288,000 Min. Safety Relief Valve Cap - 288 lbs/hr A.S.M.E. Max WP Water: 50 psi Steam: 15 psi If it's of any value, the furnace is serviced by Emanuel Bros. (Chicago) and the last service was 10/05. There is also a McDonnell No. 101-A General Purpose Valve in the mix here (see photos). I've also attached some photos. To make things interesting, scrap ducting was piled on top of the furnace. It is not functional or connected to anything. Again, thanks for all of your support and encouragement. Neal

Apologies and Thanks

@ April 25, 2006 11:40 PM in Heating Design/Update

To Stonehouse (and all), Sorry about the chevrons. I thought I was quoting the previous message. The Wall is the coolest. If I could only get you folks to help with the other challenges in my life, I'd be completely set. Thanks. Neal

@ April 25, 2006 10:37 PM in Heating Design/Update

> Check _A
> href=http://www.heatinghelp.com/getlisted.cfm_"Fin
> d a Professional"_/A_ here at this site. You're
> rather fortunate to live in the Chicago area as
> there are still lots of residential steam systems
> AND people with the knowledge to work on them
> properly. "Steamhead" comes to mind...
>
> I'd
> also suggest Dan Holohan's (the owner of this
> site) book _A
> href=http://www.heatinghelp.com/shopcart/product.c
> fm?category=2-109_"We Got Steam Heat"_/A_ at an
> absolute minimum with _A
> href=http://www.heatinghelp.com/shopcart/product.c
> fm?category=2-3_"The Lost Art of Steam
> Heating"_/A_ for significantly more depth and
> details.
>
> There certainly are things that
> nearly any homeowner can to to maintain/repair
> their steam systems. Some of the "automatic"
> devices are in fact the cause of trouble since
> they make it very easy to forget some simple,
> rather frequent and routine maintenance that
> should be done on steam systems.
>
> Unless you're
> POSITIVE that the system has been regularly and
> properly maintained, I would HIGHLY suggest a
> thorough review and "tune up" by a good steam
> man! But again, those books I mentioned will be
> VERY helpful!!!
>
> Price-wise TRVs fall in what I
> call the "moderate" category. For what they do,
> I call them a downright bargain. Their
> installation definitely falls in the
> do-it-yourself category, but it's so relatively
> simple on one-pipe steam that DIY would result in
> little or no savings. It's two-pipe hot water
> systems where DIY can really save provided you
> have some time, simple tools and lots of
> muscle...

@ April 25, 2006 7:19 PM in Heating Design/Update

<> I think that's a fair assumption. My aunt's been handling the maintenance and she hasn't mentioned anything that sounds like what we're talking about here. <> I will get right on it. <> I'll jump on them too. <>. That is an excellent suggestion. <> I don't. But I'll be happy to take some. Is there anything to show that would be especially useful? Thanks again to everyone for the valuable insights. The Wall is THE BEST! Neal

@ April 25, 2006 6:07 PM in Heating Design/Update

While I will read the books, I think the most useful perspective will come from an expert. Other than a listing in Find A Professional, are there tips for knowing a steamhead, if that's the term, from a lunkhead? I'm not sure I understand what you mean by <> If I understand, for a one-pipe system, TRVs work well, but the cost of having them installed professionally is comparable to the cost of doing it myself. Have I got it right? As someone who's been described as a simple tool with lots of time and muscle, it sounds like I'm the guy for a DIY two-pipe system. I'm not sure where the savings for a two-pipe system would occur. For that matter, I'm not sure what a two-pipe system is. (Is that one with two loops or circuits?) Thanks. Neal

@ April 25, 2006 5:12 PM in Heating Design/Update

What a terrific forum this is. What you and Mike say makes a lot of sense. I will definitely learn more about TRVs and other potential solutions. I guess now the question is how to find a trustworthy resource (or expert) in the Chicago area to review the situation without having it turn into a sales pitch for their particular "solution." Do you have any suggestions for finding that person(s)? Thank you. Neal

Heating Design/Update

@ April 25, 2006 3:12 PM in Heating Design/Update

My aunt lives in a historic three-flat in Chicago that has steam heat (a single boiler for the building that supplies the radiators in the apartment on each floor). Unfortunately, creating a comfortable temperature for her on the third floor (where the only thermostat is located) means the folks on the lower floors alternately bake or freeze. Perennially, there is a lot of verbal communication between the tenants and my aunt to adjust the temperature. Most of it is polite. While the furnace is about fifteen years old, the piping to the radiators is historical. The radiators themselves are fairly historical too. Is there a way to achieve uniform temperatures in all of the units? Also, is there a way for the tenants to individually control the temperature in their unit using the single boiler (i.e., potentially different temperaturs on different floors from a single boiler)? If not, is there a cost-efficient way to heat the units individually that uses the existing piping? (The building is very nearly on the Historic Register, so extensive re-piping or remodeling would be problematic and prohibitively expensive.) We would be grateful for any information you could provide. Thank you.