rick in Alaska
Joined on June 23, 2002
Last Post on November 29, 2013
@ November 29, 2013 3:00 AM in Carbon Monoxide Issues - HELP!My last post got dumped somehow, so here is a shortened version of it.
Find out if the boiler is really putting out that kind of co or not . Is the dryer gas?
If the boiler is putting out that amount of co, get it fixed immediately. I never leave a boiler running more than 50ppm, but usually closer to 15.
If you are getting back draft through the barometric on the air intake line ( damper is required up here not for draft, but in case vent gets blocked outside .But it must be set up right), then you have an air issue inside the house that is making the house negative pressure. I suspect you do not have enough combustion air in the basement to run the dryer and anything else that might be pulling air out.
Although the exhaust vent does not look good, it is mostly an insulated chimney connector, and the joints are sealed ok. I doubt you are getting exhaust leakage through it. But a smoke bomb test in the boiler would prove any leakage.
The exhaust termination is ok for that boiler, but according to a local rep here, i you were to cut a 3" hole through the center of it, it would direct the exhaust gases out further such as some direct vent water heaters do. This might help with any air being pulled back in through the air intake, such as on breezy days, and help with the staining on the wall caused by the acid in the exhaust gas hitting a cold wet wall.
p.s. check the door seal on that boiler as I had one that the gasket was not sealing as it should.
@ October 22, 2013 4:24 PM in conversion burnersHI guys and gals!
I am sure I have asked this before but never go a clear answer on it.
When doing a conversion on a furnace or boiler and the conversion burner manufacturer has not tried their burner on whatever it is that you are converting, how do you decide to use it or not.
I trying to find out if I use say a Riello burner on a furnace that used an Af11 burner, even though the manufacturer says they haven't tested it on this furnace, who is liable? I am fairly sure it is me, but wanting to verify. I am not wanting to do anything that makes me liable for using a product that hasn't been tested by the manufacturer.
So I guess basically my question is this: If I have a furnace and I want to convert it, which way should I go. Go for the best assumed burner, or replace it. At this time, I am replacing them as I feel it is cheaper anyway. But I do have a couple of Williamson and Thermopride furnaces that I know have a lot of life left in them and are also in a bad place to get to for removal, and it would be nice to just change the burner.
I also have a church with 7 lennox furnaces that were installed back in '07. Convert or replace?
Thanks for any help or advice. Much appreciated.
@ August 21, 2013 12:39 AM in New Style for Butt Krack PlumbersMy wife says that is like "putting lipstick on a pig", to quote our ex governor Sarah Palin, but I like it.
In my company, crack is a non-no.
@ August 20, 2013 2:33 AM in conversion liability questionYes I am in Homer. They have a lot of people in town putting in the lines, and are moving along pretty good. Supposed to have gas coming on line in about 2-3 weeks or so. I guess we will see. Definitely getting busy for me though.
I know there is no one to actually check whether I am qualified to do conversions or not, but I do not want any lawyers showing up later if there is s problem.
Where are you at Bill?
@ August 18, 2013 10:48 PM in conversion liability questionGotta check with the state tomorrow, but so far have tried five times to get a call back but without any response. I guess with one guy to cover about a 250 mile by 50 mile area, he is probably busy.
Thanks so far.
@ August 17, 2013 9:52 PM in conversion liability questionThis is something I have been wondering about for a while and thought I would see what you guys say about it.
We are in the process of getting gas in our town and people are flocking to get it installed and conversions done.
What my question is, is who is responsible for making the conversions on the appliances themselves? In other words, the kitchen stove, dryer, wall heater, water heater, etc.
I know I can do the heating system and most likely the on demand water heaters, (or at least I think I can), but not sure about the rest of the "appliances". I have a mechanical administrators license and my plumbers card, but am not sure if that directly enables me to do this work. I am not sure if the basic appliances need to have an appliance certified person do it or not.
I would hate to have the homeowner have to have multiple guys come in to do the conversions, but at the same time, I absolutely do not want any possibility of liability for doing something outside my licensing
Hope to hear from anyone and everyone!
@ June 17, 2013 11:26 PM in Do all LWC's NeedThe dead end can also have an air pocket that can be hard to get out, which will make the control shut the system down since it is not covered with water.
My 2 cents anyway.
@ May 26, 2013 9:13 PM in It was great having Ric NorvellThank you Tim!
It was great taking the class and being able to meet you. It was only a little over 4000 air miles to get there, so no big deal :)
I had a good time driving around Providence and Boston and the surrounding areas and checking out the scenery. Having never been on the East coast, it was nice to finally see it.
Anyway, the class was very helpful, and I was able to use the information I learned in class on the second day I was back. Gas furnace that was shutting off and I was able to find the problem and cure it.
With all the gas conversions and replacement units that will be going in with the new gas line being brought in, the knowledge that I got will be very helpful. So thank you for making the class available.
@ May 5, 2013 2:15 AM in Lesson learned NEVER let the wife tag along to the home showTwo things you need to say to your wife to keep her happy: ( This is from my wife)
2. I love it!
Life is easy.
@ April 17, 2013 12:46 AM in trouble free furnacesThanks for the replies!
I am in the process of getting a few bids out for conversions now as people are finally starting to believe gas is coming after all these years. Piping is being put in right now and they say maybe turning some of it on by the end of June. Going to be a busy summer.
I think whatever I get for furnaces will be what they will be. Hopefully problem free for a while anyway. The last time I took on a new line of condensing furnaces I lost about 5 hours on each one of them for callbacks and tweaking due to bad parts and the unit itself. Hopefully this won't happen again.
Anyway, thanks for all opinions!
p.s. Hey Bill are you in Anchorage area or Palin ville?
@ April 16, 2013 2:07 AM in trouble free furnacessorry about lack of info. I am talking furnaces in this case. I do have 3 suppliers about 80 miles away that stock most of the parts, (at least I hope they will since they are selling the furnaces).
I also understand the installation concerns. That is not going to be the problem, nor is the lack of stocking, at least somewhat.
I just need to know what would be my best choice of furnaces to be buying of the ones I named so I know which supplier I will be using. Then I can find out what parts to be stocking.
Thanks for any replies.
@ April 15, 2013 11:10 PM in trouble free furnacesMy area is just now getting natural gas and I haven't been around enough brands to know which ones are the good ones.
My local suppliers are selling Goodman, York, and Heil, all in the over 90% range.
I have done some investigation on the net and find that of these brands, people either say they are the worst or the best. I know installation is the biggest factor, but taking that out and just looking at longevity, ease of service, and overall quality, which is the best of these three?
Any and all answers appreciated.
p.s. I will be at Tim Mcelwains class in R.I. on May 13th, so if anyone else will be there I look forward to seeing you!
@ March 2, 2013 1:05 PM in Convert only the oil burner head to gas?Allan:
Not sure if this is your site or not, and I am not wanting to be critical, but someone needs to re-write it with better grammar. It reads as if it is a translation.
As I said, not trying to be critical, just trying to help.
@ February 25, 2013 11:42 PM in conversionsThanks for all the replies. I have looked at the job again and am going to see about changing out the furnace. I will probably keep the water heater as it is new and even changing to on on demand is going to be expensive given the central location of the existing plumbing and the walls themselves, but then again after looking at the job again I might be able to . Will see.
@ February 24, 2013 2:51 PM in Convert only the oil burner head to gas?Allen;
The link doesn't work. Do you have a better one?
@ February 21, 2013 10:35 PM in conversionsThanks for the reply Tim.
I have very limited experience with conversion burners, but I need to learn sometime. As there is going to be as many as a couple hundred people getting gas and wanting to convert, I am going to have to be able to do this.
As you know, I would love to be able to change units out to gas, but for most people, this is not going to be an option, so conversion is the way to go.
I am a very good mechanic/troubleshooter, so feel I can definitely do these with the proper guidance.
I need to get some of your books, but not sure of best ones to have at this time and with my budget. Send me recommendations please.
@ February 21, 2013 1:52 PM in Pump QuestionMy meter has a capacitor checker built right in to it, which has helped me out a lot. And I didn't have to buy a separate meter.
Try Radio Shack or similar for capacitors. I haven't looked myself, but I assume the numbers for the cap are written on it.
@ February 21, 2013 1:37 PM in conversionsI understand the cost of the furnace is cheap, however redoing all the
duct work and the exhaust kills that saving. As far as the water heater
goes, he has a fairly new oil fired unit that he doesn't want to get rid
Mostly trying to find out which burner is best for each of the units.
@ February 20, 2013 2:03 PM in conversionsI have been doing oil for 21 years here and now it looks like after years of people saying it is coming, it looks like we will have gas by August. It is going to be a mad scramble trying to do conversions and new gas lines along with my normal oil work, unless the people really can't afford to do the work. Time will tell.
Anyway, I have one customer right now who wants to be ready to go. He has a Bock water heater and an old whirlpool furnace. Since I don't do gas as propane is the only option at over 4 something a gallon, i do not have a lot of experience with different burners etc.
Question: customer does not want to change furnace, so new one is not an option.
The furnace is an old Whirlpool model FBL that is still in good shape. What conversion burner can we use on it and what burner for the Bock?
Also, the chimneys around here are for the most part Metalbestos stainless, but I am not sure on this one if it is masonry. Do all masonry chimneys need liners?
@ February 9, 2013 2:34 PM in Eatherton "flux sponge"A lot of the time when I am doing a solder job, my flux is still somewhat cold. The solution that I use to keep from having to smear too much flux on is to put my torch head in the fitting for a second or two to heat it up, and then apply the flux. I carry a small (3 ounce I think ) can of flux that I work out of and can do most boiler jobs using about 1/4 of it. As it gets used up, I refill it out of a bigger container I have.
I hate those jobs where you see green pipes and when you touch it your hands are all greasy, so i clean all my joints with a wet rag after soldering. Like others said, you need to wait for the joint to cool so it doesn't crack before wiping, but if you wait too long the flux is harder to wipe off.
@ January 13, 2013 1:28 AM in Buderus Header Manifold Leaking & CorrodedThe two unions at the top of the picture have rubber gaskets that turn hard as a rock after they have been used for a while, and start leaking when they get cold. This leaking water is running down the piping and causing surface corrosion. Get rid of them and put regular unions in.
The leak at the bottom is probably caused by a leaking packing gland on the ball valve above it. I can't tell from the picture, but you might be able to tighten it up.
@ December 19, 2012 11:27 PM in Weil McLain UO-3 HelpI am just reading this post and thought I would give a thought or two. What did you do to fix soot issue when it occurred. In other words, did you change the nozzle? I am wondering, along the lines of icesailors post, if it is a fuel related problem and the nozzle is plugging up. I have seen quite a few times when the boiler will go down about 2 days after fill ups because of a plugged or dirty nozzle. I believe as ice said that the fuel delivery will stir up crud that makes its way through the filters and to the nozzle.
You might check and see what the fuel delivery times are in relation to the boiler sooting up. Maybe you need better filtration.
p.s. I have this boiler/burner combo for the past 6 years in a direct vent setup and have only touched it 3 times. Runs great, although I still say the nx is not quiet!