Joined on March 17, 2003
Last Post on February 7, 2010
@ February 7, 2010 3:49 PM in help in finding f&t trapsthanks guys for the help . i will call these places monday
with much respect
@ February 6, 2010 3:23 PM in help in finding f&t trapshi guys;
i am looking for a distributor of sarrco f&t traps. these are the 6 bolt type. i live in new hampshire and cant find a sarrco dealer. i think they are still in bussiness.
any help you can give me would be appreciated. such as a reps name or a company where i can order these
@ January 25, 2010 5:24 PM in steamhead and all steam gurusi have done a broken union test under steam pressure, this is what i am finding. .when i break the union on the discharge of the f&t i get a steady drip of condensate. the only steam i am getting is a very small amount more in the way of vapor. i think this is because of the live steam in the returns . my feeling is that the f&ts are ok. what is you advice on this. am i on the right track.
thank you joe g
@ January 24, 2010 6:04 PM in steamhead and all steam gurussteamhead does that mean that the traps i have tested that show steam and condensate when i put steam to them ,then close when steam hits them, i didnt wait to see if they would open again,i left them on the test station for only a couple of minutes. are these traps ok.
@ January 24, 2010 12:19 PM in steamhead and all steam gurushi steamhead
the traps are sarrco type h 3/4 inch. the f&ts are also sarrco 3/4 inch
i cant thank you enough for all you help and expert advice. your explanations of how things work is starting to paint a picture in my mind.
i will keep you posted on how i make out. we should have all trap testing done by monday or tues. hope to have new traps in by end of week
with much respect joe g
p.s. the f&ts are 6 bolt as you describe. can i take these apart without breaking or should i have new gasket on hand.
@ January 23, 2010 9:07 PM in steamhead and all steam gurushi gentelmen;
when testing the traps i have had some that would show signs of some steam. not much some had just a little coming from them hardly noticeable. while others would not show any steam ,but every now and then would give off a slight puff of steam. are these traps good or should they be replace. also can f&t traps be rebuilt or do they have to be replaced.
again thanks for you help i know i have been asking a lot of questions but i want to get this right. and also just love this cool stuff they call steam
@ January 21, 2010 11:47 PM in steamhead and all steam gurusthank you for the advice and help. i have found four bad traps so far still have the second and third floors to do . i will keep you posted on my progress.
with respect joe g
@ January 20, 2010 7:14 PM in steamhead and all steam gurushi gentelmen
this is a follow up on my steam in the return problem. i have set up a trap testing satstion in the boiler and have started to test the traps. what i am finding is when i put steam to the trap i am testing. i am not getting steam but i do get a drop of water about one every five seconds. is this normal or a bad trap, this is my first time testing traps. what so i be looking for.
i also did a test on the f&t traps. i did this by breaking the union on the outlet side of the f&t,i am doing this with the system under pressure,what i am finding is that there is no steam comming out of the outlet side of the f&t but i am geting a steady flow of water. i thought i was only going to see water when the level in the trap rose enough to lift the ball off the drain hole and discharge the condensate. is this correct. if so am i getting the staedy stream of condensate from the thermostat side of the f&t. which would mean that the termostatic side of the f&T. is bad
also when iam doing this test i am getting steam out of the return , so the serach is still on to find the culprit or culprits.
any info you can give me would be greatly appreciated
thank you joe g.
@ January 17, 2010 1:15 PM in steam showing up in return in boileri am not sure what i am looking for when i am trying to determine how to find a bad f&t trap. will the return line be hot in the whole system ,but hotter at the outlet of a bad f&t. can i set it up on a trap testing station. can i use an ir gun to shot temp and ehat temp diff am i looking for. sorry for being such a pain. but witrh your help i an learning every day
with respect joe g
@ January 15, 2010 5:24 PM in steam showing up in return in boilerhi jamie; i thought that those were the only way steam could get in returns. but as i said i havent had a lot of experience with two pipe steam.
i am going to set up a trap testing station in the boiler room,that should help. and i do have a thermal raytek gun, that beats the ouch method.
thanks for you help i will keep you posted on how i make out.
@ January 15, 2010 6:52 AM in steam showing up in return in boilerthanks i realy need some help on this one.
@ January 15, 2010 6:32 AM in steam showing up in return in boileri am soory, but why did i get bumped . did i do something wrong.
thank you joe g
@ January 14, 2010 2:50 PM in steam showing up in return in boilerthe company i work for just got this small daycare for a acct. this is a three story building . built in 1950,was school then. it is a two pipe system witrh a boiler feed pump. the boiler feed is a little hihher than the return. it is piped with a 45 with a slow pitch to the feed tanks inlet. the distance is about 12 inchs. this has been this way for about ten years ,thats when the new boiler went in. the boiler is oversized for the building. was fired at 7.0 gph. on low fire when went to high firing rate was 11 gal gph.. boiler was short cycleing. would only run maybe a minute and reach high limt.
i locked it into low fire now it runs a nice long cycle. but, now after the boiler runs about five minutes we are getting steam out of the vent at the recieving tank. its not flash steam we are running the boiler at 2psi max. they said that they never noticed this before.
there are sarco steam traps at the raditors and f&t traps at the end of the feeds.. i am thinking that we have some bad traps,but i havent had any water hammering problems.
what i need to know is if i am on the right track or is there something else that could be happening. i think i could build a trap test station in the boiler room i know that this would help.
any help you can give me would be appreciated, i havent dealt with two pipe system that much. i mostly work on one pipe steam. and i would like very much to fix this. it has been a problem for a long time according to the people in the building.
also can anyone give me an idea of how to find the edr of some heating elements. most of them are 11/2 pipe with steel fins on them,most are tow rows and an average 15 to twenty lod. i would to be able to do and edr load of the building as you know thats the only way i can fire the boiler correctly.
thanks in advice i have a lot of respect for all of you and for dan and this site its GREAT.
@ October 8, 2008 6:15 AM in tasso wood boilerhi guys; does anyone know where i can get info on a tasso wood boiler. the boiler is twenty fives years old maybe a little older. when i search the net i found a web site, but my dutch isnt very good these days, i am looking for a parts list and someone who may carry parts for this boiler. any help you can give will be greatly appreciated. thanks joe g.
@ June 12, 2007 10:38 PM in Loud exhaustyou should have at least a 2 foot stright of pipe coming of the back of the boiler before you 90 into the chimney. this will allow for trhe velocity of the flue gases to slow a bit and not be so turbulant. just my 2 cents joeg.
@ June 9, 2007 8:38 PM in ANyone recognize this combination? (oil burner)is this an old low pressure fried oil burner in a vaccum system just my two cents joeg
@ June 9, 2007 8:25 PM in Ohms and electronic ignitorsnorm on carlin its 300 not sue re on allanson joeg
@ June 9, 2007 8:22 PM in Ohms and electronic ignitorson carlin ignitors i use the ten mimute mille amp test. i wire the primary in series with the meter close the buss spring to a 1/2 inch apart then energize the ignitor if the millie amps fall below 300 ignitor is bad. how ever this is not ioo% all the time. i also feel that any ignitor use should be wired so ignition drops this allows the ignitor to run cooler and minimizes RF noise problems. this is for carlin ignitors not sure what valves to test for allansons. if anybody knows please let me know thanks joe g
@ June 9, 2007 6:36 PM in amtrol heatmaker leaksounds like tank is history did it have an st domestic expansion tank joe g
@ June 9, 2007 6:31 PM in Auto Mag zone valvesalso very good to use on wood application because they are power closed valve so if you loose power the valve will open and become the dump zone. they are a very good valve. also easy to test if you have magnatism on the top of the coil the valve is closed if no magnatism the valve is open. need specialtsat or standard tsat with the use of a isolation relay joe.g
@ November 24, 2005 2:58 PM in HB SMITH w/ Carlin Reset probleminstalling an on-watch it will monitor all burner funtions when it locks out on-watch stops recording analyize data will take you to problem. i have used on many triky ones like the on you have. good luck joe.g
@ November 24, 2005 2:50 PM in Strangest pump problem everwith a new furnace we installed. old one ran for years with two line system.new on wouldnt run called suntec they said to run on line we did it works but running high vaccum. suntec said problem when two line is the total gear suction capicity. they sugested to us to use a booster pump which we did, problem soloved joe.g