Joined on August 26, 2003
Last Post on December 11, 2013
@ March 30, 2004 1:15 PM in Galvanic actionHello Mark: For water heaters, I've found that coming out of the tank with a lined steel nipple and then using a copper flex gives a true dielectric and puts distance between the dissimilar metals. Yellow brass doesn't work well around here as white tubes grow inside. Our water can be pretty impolite.
@ March 27, 2004 10:53 AM in Levittown radiant - Dan H.You got my curiosity going. What can you tell me about the Romans heating with hot water? Where do I go to learn more? I knew about hypocausts, where slaves, acting as thermostats, got to tend fires. But Romans using piped hot water?!
@ March 23, 2004 7:43 PM in stubborn water heater elementOne more trick is to take your six point socket and grind the working end of it flat. The metal you have available to grab on an element isn't much and most sockets only grab the corners. I've rounded elements even with a six point socket. Then gently stand on the breaker bar and viola, something will give! Good luck.
@ March 20, 2004 11:29 AM in Sat. photo time ( s milne)Looks like both your son and the snake are smiling ;~)
@ March 13, 2004 12:58 AM in Revolutionary new radiant floor heat conceptThis sounds pretty complex to me. You might be able to simplify things a bit if you get rid of the pot and just light the fire UNDER your concrete floor. Hmmm, that might be a hypocaust.-)
@ March 5, 2004 12:10 AM in commecial gas water heaterHello: Rheem and the other manufacturers all have sizing programs that might help you select the right heater. Don't just match what's there as heaters are often oversized. I'd check out the equipment in place and determine the maximum flow needed to see if tankless is an option. If you do use a tank type heater, hook it up with side plumbing so you have easy access to the top to change anodes and keep it going.
@ March 2, 2004 2:25 AM in hot water heater problemHello: In such a big house you may have a split recirc loop... basically two or more loops driven by one pump. If they are not balanced, you'll get most of the flow through one loop. A restriction where the recirc pipe comes back into the heater is another possibility. That connection tends to plug up from the action of the anode in the tank. Try running water under pressure through the various parts of the system. You'll either find very dirty water indicating poor pumped flow or just very little flow when flushing, telling you there is a restriction. Good luck!
@ March 1, 2004 12:14 PM in water heater gasHello Mark: Correct! The peroxide to use is the same 3% like comes in the brown plastic bottles. Folks use it as mouthwash, so it's non-toxic. Suzanne continues to improve. It's not easy or fast, but steady. I do worry at times as she has laughed at my humor recently. Never used to...;)
@ February 29, 2004 11:48 PM in water heater gasHello: There is a special anode made just for odor. It is aluminum with about 8% zinc. I've learned treating the tank with standard 3% hydrogen peroxide (1-2 pints per 40 gallons) works nicely and does not need to be flushed out later. The bacteria involved are anerobic, so adding oxygen (peroxide is H2O2) to the water kills them off. On city water it is usually only a problem with tanks that go unused for a length of time like when folks have been on vacation, or the house was sold. Once water is being used steadily the problem abates. Softening the water can increase conductivity, speeding up the action of the anode. This puts more hydrogen in the tank, which the bacteria like. Sediment is a place for the bacteria to hide as well. So, cleaning the tank of sediment, changing the anode, adding peroxide and using water regularly will certainly fix it. Doing some of the measures might fix it! Hope that helps. One more bit. If water from the tank's drain looks like evil black slime, you may want to use more peroxide.
@ February 24, 2004 12:16 PM in Radiant ceilingHello: Find yourself a copy of Radiant Heating by Napier Adlam (try addall.com). It has oodles of info!
@ February 24, 2004 12:15 AM in hot water heater pressure dropHello: A couple of simple things to double check are; do the cold inlets actually have dip tubes?.. and is the recirc pump actually pumping the right way?.. and does it have a working check valve in the loop? Cold water is getting to where it shouldn't. There aren't too many ways for that to happen. Let us know what you find!
@ February 17, 2004 8:30 PM in WETSTOCK IV SILENT AUCTIONHello Dan: How about putting in ten of our books? Would that help?
@ February 17, 2004 8:26 PM in Dead Men AdvertisingI'm pretty sure there are places in the world where this "laundry list" of wifely behavior would be thought of as proper, correct and even a bit liberal... but certainly not where I live!
@ February 17, 2004 1:01 PM in Direct venting vs. power ventingHello: I'd get installation instructions for a direct vent heater and see if your situation can meet the criteria. It looks like there might be overhead clearance problems. Note that all direct vent heaters are not the same. Some can vent further. Also you need to look at where the vent will terminate outside and see if all is OK there. There is a lot to consider, not a DIY project. Also, this does mean you'll need a new heater as they don't convert from power vent to direct vent. Hope that helps.
@ February 13, 2004 6:09 PM in HEATINGDan: In the twelve years I've known you, you've never strayed from your path, or lost focus. The message has been clear and consistant. You do set a high standard and wonderful example! Thanks for keeping the big picture in view.
@ February 11, 2004 5:26 PM in Looking for a fittingHello: You might also try McMaster Carr. They have PVC, CPVC, polypropylene aaand stainless! Their web site is www.mcmaster.com.
@ February 11, 2004 12:19 PM in legionnaires' concernsA recommendation I got years ago was one pint of the standard drug store 3% peroxide solution per 40 gallons. This works nicely for odor problems anyway. Even doubling the amount is not harmful as people use this strength for mouthwash. The problem with chemical treatment is getting through any biofilm or sediment that may have developed. It makes a good place for bacteria to hide out.
@ January 27, 2004 11:45 AM in Happy Birthday to Dan, Happy Birthday to Dan ...Our world needs you Dan. I vote you stick around and work your magic for another 54 years! Happy birthday.
@ January 27, 2004 11:36 AM in Correct Procedure for Filling a Diaphram Exp. TankHello: For domestic water, my understanding is you measure static pressure. With the tank disconnected or isolated from the plumbing, charge it to match the static pressure. Then hook it up. That is supposed to give you the maximum benefit of the volume of the tank. If you just isolate it; it needs to be done so that the water side of the tank is freely vented. Hope that helps.
@ January 27, 2004 12:54 AM in possible defective \"dip tube\"Hello: One reason to replace the dip tube instead of repiping is safety. Should you plumb it like you describe there is a small chance that under the right set of circumstances the tank could be drained of water. If it fired then, you would be in real risk of the tank exploding. The dip tube has a small hole at the top which serves as a vacuum breaker, preventing the tank being drained unintentionally. Dip tubes are cheap, and made now not to dissolve in hot water! And I agree with Bruce... check the anode and replace it with a magnesium rod if six inches or more of the core wire is exposed.
@ January 26, 2004 9:43 PM in solar panelsHello: Try looking at homepower.com. Home Power magazine is all about solar electric and solar thermal for the hands-on types.