Joined on August 26, 2003
Last Post on March 2, 2014
@ April 27, 2004 10:51 PM in Ever seen this?Hello: This is not a direct answer to your question, but may help. That steel line is rusting. Is it from the inside or outside? It looks like there could be a little flame spillage on start-up, condensing on the relatively cool tube, causing external rusting. (Note rust on inside of hatch cover and one-sided discoloration of pilot tube.) I'd be tempted to unhook the gas supply and the rusting tube to look inside the tube and the gas control and see if any rusting or corrosion is present. If so, why is the gas so wet? Is there a drip leg? Hope that helps.
@ April 27, 2004 11:51 AM in IS IT TRUE...of methane is termites. So, instead of drilling for gas, all we meed to do is bottle up termites. Seems they produce more, pound for pound than cows or people. Now you know!
@ April 26, 2004 1:03 PM in Did not get my 15 minutes of fame at WetstockHello: I'm not sure you want my experience as I can't even figure out how to get your email. But, mine is firstname.lastname@example.org. Do get in touch. We'll see if I can help.
@ April 24, 2004 1:17 PM in Did not get my 15 minutes of fame at WetstockHello: Can you go into a little more detail about just what sort of stories you need? Is it about training employees, as the title implies, or...?
@ April 13, 2004 11:40 PM in solar water heating to electrical water heatingHello: It might be fun to compare the electrical output of a person pedaling a generator, to a photovoltaic (generator), to a solar thermal collector. Let each one be used to heat up a gallon of water. Measure with a thermometer and stopwatch. The experiment would be a bit complex, but sure would drive home an understanding about how much energy the sun gives us.
@ April 11, 2004 7:34 PM in Domestic Water Heaters - return and make-up waterHello: Suggest having a look at www.gothotwater.com . You don't need a recirc loop at all and this is a much more energy efficient way to do things if a pump is to be used. Hope this helps!
@ April 11, 2004 12:45 PM in Super condensing boiler... (ME)Mark: Call around to see if a local automotive radiator shop still uses a "dipping tank" or whatever they call the vat of hot solder you dip radiator ends into. I'll bet however that GFX will know exactly the difference between soldered and non-soldered, performance-wise. From a corrosion point of view, dipping might be good!
@ April 7, 2004 1:53 AM in instant (tankless) water heatersI installed a Paloma tankless heater for friends about 23 years ago. It still works, sadly. The problem is that it (and all) tankless heaters shut off on low flow. It has become a real problem with low-flow fixtures... or maybe I just hear about the rare problem cases? Also, my experience suggests you not use tankless unless there is an odor problem or you live alone, as upfront costs and upkeep more than offset any energy savings. I question the wisdom of widespread application. Does anyone have experiences to share?
@ April 3, 2004 10:33 PM in Would you like? - Dan H.To oversimplify, it seems that when a technician sees technical trouble, he says, "Who did this?" When the building owner sees the same thing, he says "How do I fix this?" Equipment falls apart all by itself given enough time and the blaming becomes irrelevant. Fixing is what's needed. For non-technicians to know what they are looking at and understand that it's in need, photos of neglected or dangerous equipment can help. Even when another technician messed up, the building owner still will be more concerned about getting it fixed so he can worry about other stuff,.. like his daughter's new boyfriend! We need to keep in mind the other points of view.
@ April 2, 2004 7:56 PM in Hydronic System CorrosionHello: You might try going to "nace.org" (National Association of Corrosion Engineers)and looking under "academic links". It could be a way to find a good local corrosion engineer.
@ April 2, 2004 7:08 PM in History of Plumbing in photos (s milne)Hello: I see a gizmo with a wire attached to it, behind the fill valve. It looks like one would pull the wire from below and expect some result. Any idea what it was for? Maybe a way to raise the float when water overflows and drips through the ceiling? By the bye, the cistern is still common in British plumbing, from what I've seen... Do you think some of that old lead drain line would be quieter in use than ABS?... Those are some really nice wiped joints! I've got a book on just how to do it if anyone wants to do irreparable harm to their hands. Thanks for sharing.
@ April 1, 2004 11:38 PM in Return piping water heatersHello: Dan was kind enough to put an article we wrote "Domestic Hot Water Recirc Systems" in "Hot Tech Topics". It might help. Do be sure the pump is pumping water towards the heater... Sounds like it might not be.
@ April 1, 2004 12:04 PM in Mark Eatherton's post got me thinkingIn the early days of electric water heating, the tanks heated very slowly. Heater salesmen would suggest adding a "tempering tank". Often it would go in a boiler room to preheat the water going into the electric heater and make it's performance look better. Usually it was a galvanized tank the same size or a little smaller than the main heater. Yours sounds like a perfect application. However you do it, check the anode!
@ April 1, 2004 11:49 AM in Would you like? - Dan H.Waterheaterrescue has a "Chamber of Horrors" showing all sorts of dangerous/silly water heater stuff. Basically it doesn't point a finger, just shows the result of not paying attention.
@ March 31, 2004 12:20 AM in In search of FREE btu's....(ME)Hello: A question(s). Where will you put those captured BTUs? Do they go into a tempering or pre-heat DHW tank? I've done a similar thing with exhaust from a generator. All that comes from the exhaust is cold condensate. Do you worry about heat exchanger corrosion like I do? ps. If you feel like a side trip to Monterey, you could see it in person!
@ March 30, 2004 9:10 PM in Domestic Hot WaterHello: If you can detemine that the gas is really coming from the storage tank, than an easy band-aid is to put a float vent on the hot outlet at the hight point. (In hard water, expect the vent to clog periodically.) Or make a trap in the line to force gas into the vent... Just because the tank is stainless don't assume there's no anode. Check with the manufacturer. Hope that helps.
@ March 30, 2004 8:19 PM in On Demand HOT waterHello: Back in 1996 we wrote an article that might help you. See link. Some things have changed, but only a few. Read it and see what you think. http://homeenergy.org/archive/hem.dis.anl.gov/eehem/96/960510.html
@ March 30, 2004 1:15 PM in Galvanic actionHello Mark: For water heaters, I've found that coming out of the tank with a lined steel nipple and then using a copper flex gives a true dielectric and puts distance between the dissimilar metals. Yellow brass doesn't work well around here as white tubes grow inside. Our water can be pretty impolite.
@ March 27, 2004 10:53 AM in Levittown radiant - Dan H.You got my curiosity going. What can you tell me about the Romans heating with hot water? Where do I go to learn more? I knew about hypocausts, where slaves, acting as thermostats, got to tend fires. But Romans using piped hot water?!
@ March 23, 2004 7:43 PM in stubborn water heater elementOne more trick is to take your six point socket and grind the working end of it flat. The metal you have available to grab on an element isn't much and most sockets only grab the corners. I've rounded elements even with a six point socket. Then gently stand on the breaker bar and viola, something will give! Good luck.
@ March 20, 2004 11:29 AM in Sat. photo time ( s milne)Looks like both your son and the snake are smiling ;~)