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Larry Weingarten

Larry Weingarten

Joined on August 26, 2003

Last Post on March 2, 2014

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simplify

@ March 13, 2004 12:58 AM in Revolutionary new radiant floor heat concept

This sounds pretty complex to me. You might be able to simplify things a bit if you get rid of the pot and just light the fire UNDER your concrete floor. Hmmm, that might be a hypocaust.-)

sizing programs

@ March 5, 2004 12:10 AM in commecial gas water heater

Hello: Rheem and the other manufacturers all have sizing programs that might help you select the right heater. Don't just match what's there as heaters are often oversized. I'd check out the equipment in place and determine the maximum flow needed to see if tankless is an option. If you do use a tank type heater, hook it up with side plumbing so you have easy access to the top to change anodes and keep it going.

split loop

@ March 2, 2004 2:25 AM in hot water heater problem

Hello: In such a big house you may have a split recirc loop... basically two or more loops driven by one pump. If they are not balanced, you'll get most of the flow through one loop. A restriction where the recirc pipe comes back into the heater is another possibility. That connection tends to plug up from the action of the anode in the tank. Try running water under pressure through the various parts of the system. You'll either find very dirty water indicating poor pumped flow or just very little flow when flushing, telling you there is a restriction. Good luck!

drug store peroxide

@ March 1, 2004 12:14 PM in water heater gas

Hello Mark: Correct! The peroxide to use is the same 3% like comes in the brown plastic bottles. Folks use it as mouthwash, so it's non-toxic. Suzanne continues to improve. It's not easy or fast, but steady. I do worry at times as she has laughed at my humor recently. Never used to...;)

odor

@ February 29, 2004 11:48 PM in water heater gas

Hello: There is a special anode made just for odor. It is aluminum with about 8% zinc. I've learned treating the tank with standard 3% hydrogen peroxide (1-2 pints per 40 gallons) works nicely and does not need to be flushed out later. The bacteria involved are anerobic, so adding oxygen (peroxide is H2O2) to the water kills them off. On city water it is usually only a problem with tanks that go unused for a length of time like when folks have been on vacation, or the house was sold. Once water is being used steadily the problem abates. Softening the water can increase conductivity, speeding up the action of the anode. This puts more hydrogen in the tank, which the bacteria like. Sediment is a place for the bacteria to hide as well. So, cleaning the tank of sediment, changing the anode, adding peroxide and using water regularly will certainly fix it. Doing some of the measures might fix it! Hope that helps. One more bit. If water from the tank's drain looks like evil black slime, you may want to use more peroxide.

book from 1947

@ February 24, 2004 12:16 PM in Radiant ceiling

Hello: Find yourself a copy of Radiant Heating by Napier Adlam (try addall.com). It has oodles of info!

simple things

@ February 24, 2004 12:15 AM in hot water heater pressure drop

Hello: A couple of simple things to double check are; do the cold inlets actually have dip tubes?.. and is the recirc pump actually pumping the right way?.. and does it have a working check valve in the loop? Cold water is getting to where it shouldn't. There aren't too many ways for that to happen. Let us know what you find!

books

@ February 17, 2004 8:30 PM in WETSTOCK IV SILENT AUCTION

Hello Dan: How about putting in ten of our books? Would that help?

and even today

@ February 17, 2004 8:26 PM in Dead Men Advertising

I'm pretty sure there are places in the world where this "laundry list" of wifely behavior would be thought of as proper, correct and even a bit liberal... but certainly not where I live!

direct vent heater

@ February 17, 2004 1:01 PM in Direct venting vs. power venting

Hello: I'd get installation instructions for a direct vent heater and see if your situation can meet the criteria. It looks like there might be overhead clearance problems. Note that all direct vent heaters are not the same. Some can vent further. Also you need to look at where the vent will terminate outside and see if all is OK there. There is a lot to consider, not a DIY project. Also, this does mean you'll need a new heater as they don't convert from power vent to direct vent. Hope that helps.

focus

@ February 13, 2004 6:09 PM in HEATING

Dan: In the twelve years I've known you, you've never strayed from your path, or lost focus. The message has been clear and consistant. You do set a high standard and wonderful example! Thanks for keeping the big picture in view.

tank fitting

@ February 11, 2004 5:26 PM in Looking for a fitting

Hello: You might also try McMaster Carr. They have PVC, CPVC, polypropylene aaand stainless! Their web site is www.mcmaster.com.

peroxide

@ February 11, 2004 12:19 PM in legionnaires' concerns

A recommendation I got years ago was one pint of the standard drug store 3% peroxide solution per 40 gallons. This works nicely for odor problems anyway. Even doubling the amount is not harmful as people use this strength for mouthwash. The problem with chemical treatment is getting through any biofilm or sediment that may have developed. It makes a good place for bacteria to hide out.

ebay cat

@ January 28, 2004 1:52 AM in Pipe cat

Best go have a look on ebay... #2591975985.

and more good wishes

@ January 27, 2004 11:45 AM in Happy Birthday to Dan, Happy Birthday to Dan ...

Our world needs you Dan. I vote you stick around and work your magic for another 54 years! Happy birthday.

\"proper\" method

@ January 27, 2004 11:36 AM in Correct Procedure for Filling a Diaphram Exp. Tank

Hello: For domestic water, my understanding is you measure static pressure. With the tank disconnected or isolated from the plumbing, charge it to match the static pressure. Then hook it up. That is supposed to give you the maximum benefit of the volume of the tank. If you just isolate it; it needs to be done so that the water side of the tank is freely vented. Hope that helps.

keeping it as is

@ January 27, 2004 12:54 AM in possible defective \"dip tube\"

Hello: One reason to replace the dip tube instead of repiping is safety. Should you plumb it like you describe there is a small chance that under the right set of circumstances the tank could be drained of water. If it fired then, you would be in real risk of the tank exploding. The dip tube has a small hole at the top which serves as a vacuum breaker, preventing the tank being drained unintentionally. Dip tubes are cheap, and made now not to dissolve in hot water! And I agree with Bruce... check the anode and replace it with a magnesium rod if six inches or more of the core wire is exposed.

solar

@ January 26, 2004 9:43 PM in solar panels

Hello: Try looking at homepower.com. Home Power magazine is all about solar electric and solar thermal for the hands-on types.

not plating exactly

@ January 23, 2004 11:39 PM in Copper plating in steam boilers

Hello: small, even microscopic bits of copper from the lines can get into the boiler. There they form cells that corrode away the iron, forming pits. The copper is noble to the iron and the latter must corrode away to protect the copper. That's basically how anodes in water heaters and boats work. Hope that helps.

funny valve

@ January 13, 2004 10:28 PM in stumped???!!!

Hello: Water heating is my thing and I've not heard of such a beast. It probably is a typo or misquote. Marilyn Pitts writes about all sorts of things and may not have seen that this is a "funny" valve.

model of wrench

@ January 13, 2004 1:00 PM in What kind of wrench

Seems obvious... it's a Rigid tongue expressor ;)

pressure

@ January 8, 2004 12:45 AM in A water heater mystery

Hello: I've had flues collapse because the tank was hooked up to multiple washing machines that had quick closing solenoids. Water hammer, over time can do it. The bottom of the tank bulging suggests high pressure, if only for split seconds at a time. The flue connected to the top and bottom would have to pull one to follow the other. I use a recording 24 hour pressure gauge to help troubleshoot "mysterious" heaters. You could just put a gauge on the drain valve and watch it while having the various hot water uses cycled through their paces. Also, don't assume the delivery pressure remains constant. Being close to a pumping staton or near the end of a main line can cause interesting problems. The relief valve is not a good indicator of pressure either, as they get stuck pretty often. Hope that helps.
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