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Joined on December 30, 2005

Last Post on April 16, 2014

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@ April 16, 2014 7:14 PM in Proper Wiring Help Needed


@ April 16, 2014 4:04 PM in Proper Wiring Help Needed

Hi Steve, the low volt wirers being for the end switch makes good sense. The problem is the insulation value for the lo volt is 300V and 600v for the line volt wirers. So the line volt can "jump " thru any cracks , wear, or worn spots in the insulation , therefore "line volt wire " should have been used for the lo volt circuit if both are run thru the same conduit. We do that all the time. Plus if done on electronic control circuits there can be "interference" in the lo volt wiring due to magnetism.

Need for routine.

@ April 16, 2014 5:12 AM in split system residential unit running fine - need for annual checkup??

I'm assuming you live down south somewhere!? Somewhere that it is already warm? AC units , properly sized/installed  AC units are based on an indoor to outdoor temp difference of 15*-17 1/2* -20*. So w/ a 100* ambient your looking at 80* indoor or so. If you have colder indoor temps then the AC unit is probably oversized. The AC unit will be really oversized when using the AC when there is an 80* ambient. If you are waiting for frost/icing to indicate the system is lo on Freon then you are damaging your own compressor.Have your AC guy put in a SG/MI(SightGlass/MoistureIndicator) and you can see if the unit is lo on Freon. Do they put Freon in the system ? If not , then I would lean towards dirty filters or dirty evap coil or a dirty indoor blower wheel and a few others. That is part of what the inspection is about, or what the inspection is supposed to be about. I do not hear from 95% of my "inspected " customers until the next routine. FACT!!      How long is your cooling season? Being a selfish , self centered kinda guy , MY piece of mind allows me to give you your "piece of mind".
heatpro02920, I am not claiming that I don't put gauges on, I DO put gauges on, a lot. But with a few customer that I have for several years, there are some that I don't,  based on good suction line temps AND that very important SG/MI. As Stephen mentioned a leaking duct system might be adding to the problem , I WILL NOT be repairing any duct work when its 120*-145* in the attic , that repair is an offshoot of the inspection.


@ April 15, 2014 7:05 PM in Better Business Bureau

Same here, radmix

Test AC

@ April 15, 2014 6:55 PM in split system residential unit running fine - need for annual checkup??

Hi heatpro02920.When the gauges go on a system its the temp that we are concerned with. Same temp across the board for all those different freons but each different Freon has its own corresponding pressure. Lets say r-22 ,95* ambient , hiside press of 275psig or so , but that press is based on a CondensingTemp of 125* or so. R-410a @125*CT or so and the press is 446 or so .The same applies to the loside temps. AC evap temp of 40* is across the board, with different press for the different freons,add 10* SuperHeat for TXV ,plus 5* for the suction line and  you have 55* at the comp . So measuring the temp at the comp will give you a real good idea of system performance, also having a full liquid line going into the TXV and that system is running good.So on any system the same applies, now, for all new customers I put gauges on.

Routines good or bad

@ April 15, 2014 3:31 PM in split system residential unit running fine - need for annual checkup??

Jim Bergmann has an article on AC&R called "An Essential Reference For The Advanced Technician" 70 pages of info .Jim explains about NOT putting on gauges,BUT the system had to already been "benchmarked" so you can compare readings. Now it's not that far of a leap of faith to KindaSorta use your :benchmarked #'s and compare them to any unbenchmarked unit. Enough that you can look/feel at a system and say "I do/don't have to go get my gauges"
I run my business on Routines. With a routine , regular rates 24-7 even the 4th of July& I WILL be there. W/o a routine , overtime rates apply. Your talking YOUR TIME .. W/o a routine I'll PROBABLY NOT be there, because it is MY TIME, especially on the 4th of July. I do about 20% of my res AC w/o yearly routines  , use per year is 1month for a few, other's 2 months. Commercial is a different animal ,there I have 95% do have a hands on inspection


@ April 14, 2014 11:08 PM in So you want to learn how to be profitable in retrofitting hydronics eh...

 Gottcha Mark, but I was also thinking about your Fall class


@ April 14, 2014 8:32 PM in So you want to learn how to be profitable in retrofitting hydronics eh...

Hi Mark !Is this class anywhere L.I.N.Y.? Naw, I didn't think so.

Happy Passover

@ April 14, 2014 8:28 PM in Happy Passover

to all of those celebrating this wounderous holiday. Enjoy Professor and my new friend Moe.!

Dirty cond coil

@ April 14, 2014 1:59 PM in AC cleaning condensor coils - inner side seems dirty

Check to see if you have  two cond coil's as The Professor said. Now you will have to take the outer jacket off. There will always be some air flow thru the cond unit so the "paper test"isn't all that good. No water thru certain areas of the cond coil mean that 1- the coil is plugged dirty or 2- You have REALLY good aim by squirting the water directly onto the outside face the actual tubing,  and not the fins. The height of the "rows" of tubing is offset so washing down & up on a 45*angle does real good.


@ April 14, 2014 1:04 AM in High Vac Readings caused by BioFuel 20

Here on L.I.N.Y. the Petro oil co had a massive problem w/ their BioFuel this past winter, the oil filter got plugged up w/ a waxy substance. They changed a lot of filters.

Dirty cond coils

@ April 13, 2014 7:15 PM in AC cleaning condensor coils - inner side seems dirty

With an AC system that is washed/cleaned every year it is a breeze to wash the cond coil. With the cond fan motor assembly removed then you can get to both sides of the cond coil. On an unwashed unit,that being a new to me customer. This is what happens. By washing from the inside of the cond coil to the outside you will be forcing the dirt, bugs, grass, leaves out . BUT , and this is a big BUT, a lot of the debris simply "hides" on the opposite side of the tubing from the water direction, and that is why it is advised to wash from in to out, then reverse as many time as necessary until you get clean water AND no crap is being washed off of the coil. Also you should be watching the water as it leaves the coil to see when there is no more debris being washed away.Without looking at the leaving water how can you possibly know when the section of the cond coil that you are washing is clean? Wash as MANY times as necessary! On many new to me units it is necessary to remove the outter metal jacket for the 1st time. That metal cover holds in a whole bunch of debris. Also with the cond fan motor assemble removed you can check the comp electric terminals. Same applies to evap coils. Some years back it took me 8hrs to "clean " an 100ton evap coil (4-25hp comps). The evap coil was 8-10' long  x 6' high x 8'' thick. Back and forth and back and forth.


@ April 13, 2014 11:08 AM in Proper Wiring Help Needed

You have a major miswiring problem here. Is that low volt (24v) wiring  going into the same BX as the line volt (120v) wirers? If I'm seeing that correctly , then you have a big problem looming ahead of you and anyone who adjusts the t'stat.

Water & electricity

@ April 12, 2014 9:17 PM in disconnecting power to clean AC coils - why necessary?

Washing the condenser coil is a innie to outie and outie to innie & back to the innie and back to the outie so the cond fan motor assembly has to be removed inorder to get down inside the cond unit. While "open" the cond fan motor assembly  has to be checked as well as the cond fan blade. Now if someone in the house turns the AC on while you are doing the routine ,you will be in for a big surprise. Also the three wirers going into the comp body ( C,S,R termimals) are supposed to be checked for corrosion . Now even if the outdoor disconnect is OFF and someone turns the T'stat on , all of the low voltage wirers in the cond unit will be "hot" and another surprise. Plus the "control panel" has to be opened up and EVERY wire connection tested.So, washing the cond coil is only part of the job.

on the fly.

@ April 11, 2014 9:19 PM in Filter Dryers and moisture indicators.

Yup! That's one of the reasons why I like flare FD. If the system has a solder/brazed FD/MI I remove them and put in flare. Then because the system was open to the atmosphere I pull a vac.

On the fly

@ April 11, 2014 8:37 PM in Filter Dryers and moisture indicators.

Let's say the MI is showing caution, front seat the King valve, pump the system down to .00001 psig, and swap out the old FD for the new FD.Now ,if one of those old FD DOES NOT have that "pressure noise" it is highly probable that moisture invaded the desicant , and since you are not evacuating the system , you will be adding moisture into the system, so in this situation I would not use one of your freebe FD's.

FilterDrier part

@ April 11, 2014 4:34 AM in Filter Dryers and moisture indicators.

Morning Harvey, what brand of FD/MI do you use now? Are these solder or flare FD's ? Do you "listen " for the "pressure noise" when you open up a new FD now? WHAT? What pressure noise? What are you talking about? PSSSSSST, THAT pressure noise!!!!!Try one of the old  FD's that you just got. If flare have a SAE flare cap ready to plug the FD after you  open it. What sizes of FD did you get? Sporlan FD use the "absorbtion" type of desicant,so , if the FD "pressure noise " IS NOT there,then, you have two choices.1- If on a new install I would( have) still use the old FD because you will be pulling a vacuum anyway.2- If on service , and you are changing the FD "on the fly" I would NOT use the old FD. If you got a bunch of c-162 or c-163 or c303 , I would (have) use them. Check to see if the old FD are compatible for use w/ R410a and POE oil.

The MI part

@ April 10, 2014 8:19 PM in Filter Dryers and moisture indicators.

Hi Harvey! Interested in stocking a few parts? I have a few MI's in stock! 27 or so on the truck , and backup in the shop. 20 years or so ago I bought a bunch of 7/8  and 1 1/8  liquid line MI's.I sold a few in the past 2-3-5 years or so, the MI tablet showed "caution" while in the shop and on the truck.Then in the system , the MI showed "caution" , then changed the FilterDrier(twice) and the new ( in the system ) MI showed "DRY". There are two "types"or  "styles" of "moisture sensitive tablets" by the way! So I'm going to say that MI's last one 'ell of a long time or so! 


@ April 9, 2014 5:01 AM in New install Furnace

Those supply ducts look more like 8". If you are running returns from any bedrooms the return should be larger than the supply. KindaSorta, 8" supply, 10" return or if supply is 100 the return would be about 120


@ April 7, 2014 2:41 PM in Pressure Enthalpy

Hi Harvey, download &read this Jim Bergmann ,HVACR Technical Specialist, article ; Testo, Applications Guide, AC & Refrigeration," An Essential Reference For The Advanced Technician", 70 pages of real good ,real neat,really interesting knowledge. Add this to Pressure Enthalpy!

Flex size

@ April 7, 2014 7:09 AM in New install Furnace

Where did you come up with the 4" flex? How much CFM is going thru the 4"? The 6"? What is the CFM of the furnace? No AC in the future?


@ April 6, 2014 6:54 AM in compressor

Paul S , how did you make out?
Why not megger 1phase comps across the board? I've never seen it done.
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